July 30, 2014, 05:29:32 AM

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Messages - chasinglight

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1
Landscape / Re: FOREST GUMP VIEW OF THE MONUMENT VALLEY
« on: July 21, 2014, 11:39:15 AM »
Great shots surapon. I have to agree that my favorite is the first one, both from a composition and processing standpoint. As a suggestion, on the last photo perhaps you could reduce the post processing just a bit, the halos on the horizon are a bit extreme for my taste and the saturation of the oranges could be dialed back a bit too. Additionally there is a rather large piece of sensor dust in the upper right portion of the photo. Again great shots. I am very jealous. I have been wanting to get out to monument valley for a while now. Any plans to visit Antelope Slot Canyon while you are in the area?

2
I don't think the 7D likes 70-200 lenses for some reason...my 70-200 had a terrible keeper rate on the 7D due to AF issues even after several rounds of AFMA with focal. The same 70-200 performed near flawlessly on the t2i when I had it and currently I do not have any issues with the 6D. By contrast I never had issues with 15-85 or 100-400 on the 7D.

3
Software & Accessories / Re: Canon BG-E13 Flimsy Tripod Mount
« on: July 12, 2014, 06:43:07 PM »
I found the same thing. The joint between the camera body and the grip is as strong as the camera body directly to the tripod. The problem seems to be the tripod mount of the grip itself. If the camera amd grip is mounted to the rrs L bracket I can easily flex the camera back and forth such that the only thing stopping the camera from flexing more is the camera strap loop hitting the indent in the rrs L bracket.


Hi Neuro.
I found it was the grip itself, the fit between the grips and bodies seem excellent, I would doubt that there is much scope for movement at the interface, it all seems to be flex in the plastic grip base.

Cheers Graham.

Is it the grip itself that is distorting/wobbling?  I always thought it was the connection between grip and body.  If you hold the body and grip in your two hands, you can move them and see the grip 'wiggle' on the body.  I prefer the ergonomics of a grip, and was annoyed by the need to remove it for maximum stability on a tripod, that was one of many reasons I moved to a 1-series body.

4
Software & Accessories / Re: Canon BG-E13 Flimsy Tripod Mount
« on: July 12, 2014, 12:18:21 AM »
ya, I suppose it could be that I just upgraded my support gear so I am more aware of the amount of flex when mounted to the tripod. But at the same time I don't remember any apparent flex in the 7D battery grip. Either way I just got a plain L plate for the 6D; this easily cut the amount of wiggle/flex on half. Now whether or not this flex can affect picture sharpness is a whole other issue. My guess is under ideal conditions it has no effect, but in the wind I'll take any advantage I can get.

5
I've seen several topics here previously about insuring your gear against theft or damage and I'm sorry I can't find that thread for reference.

I went to a State Farm agent and requested a quote to cover my inventory that totals about $45K. They sent a proposal for $850/annually which is much more than I recall hearing from other shooters here.

Who are others using for insurance?

Thanks again for your help. This is better than Dear Abby.... ::)


I pay state farm ~$150/year for $11k.... $150x4 is $600..so seems like a little much. I have a personal article policy (not for business) that covers everything except for war and vermin. I will note that it was kinda a hassle to get everything insured though, as you might expect they want receipts and some other form of proof of purchase. They even wanted an appraisal, but I got them to settle for the aforementioned documentation. Thankfully I have not needed it yet, but contrary to what others have said, if I lost, broke, or had a $1k piece of gear stolen I would file a claim....though I might think twice about filing a claim for something worth only a few hundred. I suppose the threshold of when to file a claim depends on one's financial state.

6
Software & Accessories / Canon BG-E13 Flimsy Tripod Mount
« on: July 09, 2014, 09:16:09 PM »
Hi,

I know many say that the most stable way to mount your camera to a tripod is without the battery grip (though many will debate otherwise, but that is not the point of this post). I recently noticed that when I mount my Canon 6D + (authentic) Canon BG-E13 to a tripod (via arca swiss plate or RRS L bracket) there is significant flex in the BG-E13 tripod mount. In fact I can see the bottom of the battery grip flexing/torquing when light force is applied to the camera while the ball head is tightened. When the 7D was my main camera I always mounted my 7D + BG-E7 either directly to a tripod via an arca swiss plate or a RRS L Bracket and never really experienced any appreciable flex. So I guess my question is, out of curiosity, is anyone else noticing that the BG-E13 is pretty flimsy when mounted to a tripod? I don't have any issue with the quality for handheld use (though I do like the ergonomics of the BG-E7 better). Despite the ill effects to my workflow I am thinking that I will now remove my BG-E13 when using a tripod....and also exchange my RRS 6D w/grip L bracket for the plain 6D L bracket.

Thoughts? Comments?
 

7
Landscape / Re: Fireworks pics, let's see 'em!
« on: July 05, 2014, 12:56:32 AM »
Fireworks from tonight's show in Barrington, IL!

8
Take a look at the brenizer method. It's definitely not how the shot was originally obtained, but it may be a more suitable method for what you are trying to achieve.

http://blog.buiphotos.com/2009/07/the-brenizer-method-explained-with-directions/

9
+1 for craigslist. I am pretty much done with selling on eBay due to the ~20% you pay in fees (when you account for both eBay and Paypal fees). I do however simultaneously list on eBay and craigslist on the off chance that someone on eBay is interested in dealing locally, i.e. circumventing eBay fees.

One important thing to note with craigslist is to only deal locally, in well lit, populated areas; I choose Starbucks because they are everywhere. Furthermore, only deal in cash. 99.99% of the time if buyer on craigslist asks to pay you via Paypal (or some western union wire type service) and then have you ship it, it is a scam. Believe it or not their are several ways that someone can pay you through Paypal, then take then money back before you can can get it. Here is an example of a recent scam email I got while trying to sell my 7D + 15-85.

"$1250 is reasonable, I just finished AIT (Advanced Individual Training), But I'm waiting for deployment. I would appreciate if you can handle the shipment once you confirm payment and that brings the total to $1350. You can request money with my email (Georgebarness@outlook.com) for a PayPal payment. Keep me updated once request is sent.

Sent from my  iPad
"

So be on the lookout for anything that looks/feels/sounds like that. I have bought and sold several pieces of camera equipment on craigslist in the past few years. you just need to be patient, not emotional, and use your head.

Good luck!

10
Not sure it was a glitch. I was about to buy it on Saturday from amazon for $1200 when I saw this. When I logged into the canon site they had it for $1025 + tax of course...so I snatched it up. Just shipped out today. Should be here Wednsday I think!

11
Hello, here are several images from the Rockford Airfest 2014 which took place in Rockford Illinois last weekend. All these photos were taken with the Canon 100-400 and either the Canon 6D or the 7D. Lighting conditions were pretty bad so after ETTR I had to stretch the files quite a bit to get the levels back to normal. That said, while I know I will have some opponents, shooting with both the 6D and 7D at the airshow has convinced me to sell my 7D. While I love the camera, the build quality, the speed, etc. I have to say the 6D did everything just a little better, including AF. I found that with ETTR, the 6D is a very forgiving camera in less than ideal lighting. Anyway here are the images.















'




12
EOS Bodies / Re: A Few EOS 7D Mark II Specs [CR1]
« on: June 12, 2014, 10:26:20 AM »
It will have a Mode Dial.

While I agree that it will probably have a mode dial, has anyone explored the idea that this could be a replacement for the 7D and the 1DMkIV, albeit leaning a lot harder towards the 1D. I know a lot of sports shooters still shoot the MkIV over the 1DX because of the 1.3x crop. Of course that would make this camera a lot more expensive than the previous 7D. I thought a previous rumor said that this was not going to be called the 7D, but perhaps some other name...anyway just a thought.

13
Lenses / Re: Family Holiday To Florida
« on: June 10, 2014, 09:21:22 AM »
In a theme park I imagine you have a few different types of shots you wish to capture. Perhaps an shot of the park itself which would probably require the widest lens FL you bring (15 or 18mm). Maybe shots of the family as a group with some park in the background (18-35mm). Perhaps close ups of the family (50-85mm). And finally, and I am not sure how easy this is to do, but photos of your family on rides? In which case you need the longest lens you have (200). Sooo if you wanted to take two lenses I would say take the 18-35, which will cover the first few cases I listed (and do it in low light!), and the 70-200 for the last two cases. However, if you just wanted to take one lens to save on weight and to make your setup less cumbersome I would say take the 15-85 or the 24-105, my preference is the 15-85 as I like using the wide end of the lens and I believe the 15-85 to be sharper on the 7D.


14
Photography Technique / Re: Can you share your workflow?
« on: March 11, 2014, 04:04:14 PM »
My workflow is probably very similar to others:

1) Transfer photos from card to system drive (SSD) via transcend usb 3.0 card reader
2) Import photos directly in to lightroom
3) review photos - ranking them
    - reject (bad photo, missed focus, unusable)
    - 0 stars (eh ....maybe)
    - 3 stars (good potential)
    - 5 stars (THE shot)
4) develop 3 and 5 star photos (if photos are similar then I will develop in bulk; i.e. sync). also sometimes I do these steps in a slightly different order...depending on what the image is screaming for.

    a) apply lens correction and remove CA
    b) adjust exposure if neccessary
    c) adjust WB to taste
    d) make coarse changes to highlights and shadows
    e) make local adjustments with gradient or brush tool
    f) boomify (add contrast with tone curve
    g) add saturation or vibrance for pop if necessary
    h) remove color noise
    i) add vignette to taste if the picture needs it
    j) edit in photo shop and apply sharpening (either unsharp mask, smart sharpen, or high pass) (locally or globally) depending on type of image. Not all images require additional sharpening.
       for portraits that need it at this time I would also whiten teeth, remove distracting objects, blemishes, etc
    k) save - export
5) move folder in lightroom to data HDD for long term storage.

oh and for any "localized" adjustments I use a wacom tablet. I can't say enough good things about having a tablet, that really improved my post processing.

For panos I will use PS CS6 if they are simple. If they are tricky then huggin.
For HDR (which I rarely use) I will use PS CS6 or photomatix

I have tried other 3rd party programs such as the Topaz suite and the nik suite and others...I find that I can get everything I need within LR and PS...other programs just complicate things too much, though I have seen fantastic results from others.

like I said I doubt this is too different from most, but hope this helps!

15
Photography Technique / Re: Perspective correction
« on: December 29, 2013, 02:06:15 PM »
Give huggin a try. It is my goto perspective correction/pano stitcher tool. It takes a few minutes to figure out how to use it, but it is very powerful and very accurate and free! http://hugin.sourceforge.net

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