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Messages - Dave_NYC

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Lighting / Re: Help: Yongnuo 622C and multi camera configuration
« on: March 14, 2014, 04:43:01 PM »
Edit:  Sorry, ignore that, I didn't understand what you were trying to do until I read a section on it in that link that Dave posted and then it clicked (good stuff btw, thanks for the link).  What you're trying to do looks like what is on the bottom of page 10.  You set the remote flashes to group B, and the on-camera 622s to group C.  Then set both cameras to only fire A+B.  The on-camera flash is treated as Group A for that camera, but Group C for the other, and vice versa.  That is brilliant.  Can't say I have a use for it, but I'm going to try it just to do it.

I tried the solution described above and it works perfectly. I was using two on-camera 565EX's and two off-camera 468 II's, all mounted on 622C's.

Sneaky. Nice one!  :)

Lighting / Re: Help: Yongnuo 622C and multi camera configuration
« on: March 03, 2014, 02:41:34 PM »

My wife and I do a bit of wedding photography, and have been using remote flashes for a while for some great shots.  She shoots 7D and I shoot a 5D II.  We use the Yongnuo 622C wireless Tx/Rx boxes, one on the camera and one per remote flash.  We use a mixture of Canon 430 EXII and Yongnuo YN-565 EX on each YN 622C.

Everything works fine.  Well, it did until we tried to be clever.  Initially only my wife had the 622C on her 7D and only she controlled the remote flashes.  I just ran with a 580 EX II on my 5D II and had no remote flash control.  I know that the 580 EXII can be used as a commander, but we bought it after the remote units and use it as an on-camera flash unit.

However, last week we tried to get clever.  We both ran with a 622C on our cameras, so that both of us could use the remote lash units, and this is where problems arose.  On taking a shot, one would trigger the other's on-camera flash as well.  Not ideal.

I have tried to read the "chinglish" that the instructions are written in, and I thought I understood them, but I was wrong.  I thought that I could set the flash remotes to work on 2 channels so that independent cameras could trigger them, but but I can't seem to get it to work.  :(

Is there any way that we can set up a bank of remote flashes, each with a YN-622C unit attached so that they can be independently fired by two cameras, both with a YN-622C unit and a Canon 430-EX II on them?

Please help  :)

Grant  :)

Dagnabit, I just sold my 60D a little while ago and could have tested this.

I will say though: a flash on the 622 on top of a camera is automatically put into group A. That is probably why the other on camera flash is firing.

If I had my 60D still, I would try setting up the remote bank of flashes on group C.

Then put a 622 and flash on one of the cameras (which will default to A group).

Then put a 622 on the second camera on group B, and a group B 622 with flash (if this works you'll need to use a bracket or handhold it).

Configure first camera to use group A and C, and the second camera to use group B and C. The 2nd camera must not have a flash plugged into the 622 that is in the camera hot shoe.

Also, in case you have not seen this, here is a LOT more info on these little guys than the yongnuo manual offers: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B77OmmGIg0gMVFpqNkpBYXBHajA/edit?pli=1


Must be clearing stock.

Figured I'd post it in case anyone is in the market for a P&S for an insanely good price.

Canon General / Re: Spot to take pictures of skyscrapers in NY in the dark
« on: February 16, 2014, 08:24:06 PM »
+1 on the helicopter suggestion, if you can do it.

Be aware that NYPD may roust you if you use a tripod. They're not supposed to, but some of them do and it really isn't worth arguing with them because the officer might decide to confiscate your stuff and you. I would suggest printing this out and carrying it with you to (politely) show to an officer if asked if you intend to use a tripod: http://www.nyc.gov/html/film/html/permits/permit_required_fee.shtml - but if an officer tells you to move, move.

The empire state building do not allow monopods, tripods, etc. They go so far as to confiscate the tiny gorillapods for point and shoots at security.

On the Brooklyn side of the brooklyn bridge are two very popular spots - to the right of the bridge you have the dumbo area, and on the left side of the bridge you have the brooklyn bridge park (brooklyn bridge park is often more crowded, particularly at the end of the day). Go there for the blue period before dawn to have the buildings lit (sun behind you) or at night to try catch some sunset sky behind the skyline.

You can also take a ferry (or other transport) over to Liberty State Park in NJ for a view from the other side - sunset behind you hitting the buildings. The park opens at 6am, so you'll miss the pre dawn blue period unfortunately.

For midtown, you can try Roosevelt Island. If you're quick and lucky, you might be able to get a memorable shot or two from the tram on the ride over from the 59th street bridge stop. A shot of the U.N. building can be had from the southern tip of Roosevelt Island as well.

Don't discount your hotel room either. If it's a big building, see if you can get a room very high up. Turn off the lights in the room and you might have a great view.

If you take the staten island ferry, immediately go to the highest level on the right hand side. The statue of liberty will be on that side. You can go right on the way back as well if you want a shot of the Verrazanno bridge, a rather boring bit of brooklyn, and governor's island.

I did the DSLRcontroller method, which uses a custom firmware for the same TP-link router. Same thing largely though.

I did manage to get this running with DSLRcontroller by rooting my kindle fire (2nd gen) and then putting on cyanogenmod kit kat 4.4 - you may be able to do the same with DSLRdashboard. Worth looking into, given what you can get a kindle fire 2 for nowadays.

Lenses / Re: 24-70/2.8 Canon or Tamron: Which did you choose and why?
« on: February 01, 2014, 08:41:45 AM »
I am so much on the fence between the Canon 24-70/2.8L II and the Tamron 24-70/2.8 VC. Would love to hear why you chose one over the other and if you are still happy with your decision. I am very aware of the physical differences between the two and the various test reports out there, but I am more interested in "how they feel and taste", if you know what I mean ... Comments?

I tried both - the Tamron first. I sent it back for incredibly inconsistent AF in low light, especially using AF assist beam - it would back focus or front focus randomly (80% - 90% of test shots) with anything over about four or five feet away which made it useless to me given I shoot in dark environments a lot.

Canon nails focus pretty much every time, is very sharp, great contrast, fast accurate AF, etc. It cost a lot more but then it's the lens that cannot miss: I have to be able to depend on it without constantly chimping or I'll lose shots.

Lenses / Re: Canon 17-40mm & ND filter
« on: January 25, 2014, 06:48:37 PM »
Got my 17-40 today, and measured that square - just in case anyone else wants to know at some point: the size of the rear gel filter holder for the canon 17-40 f/4 lens is 1 & 1/4 inches on each side. So a 4 inch wratten will yield a good few squares.

I may yet get around to testing some Rosco ND gels, if I do I'll post results here. Given the wratten is more pricey it'd be great if it works, but I've seen references to imaging gels and lighting gels, and that the latter causes IQ degradation. If anyone knows anything about shooting through gel, please chime in. I know next to nothing about it.

Software & Accessories / Re: Adobe Lightroom for iPad Coming Soon
« on: January 17, 2014, 07:59:18 PM »
99$ per annum? LR5 is 149$ one-time for PC... I don't understand this pricing.

Neither do I. Maybe they're including Behance or other online storage with it?

Lenses / Re: Canon 17-40mm & ND filter
« on: January 17, 2014, 11:53:37 AM »
I've never used the gel holder myself, but I think it's probably easy enough to measure the square (The filter needs to sit inside, and from what I see I think the corners need to be squared off a little). Or else Google it?

Google was my first stop. I found several references to cutting gels but none that mention the size of that square. The size is also not mentioned in the manual for the lens, and I don't have this lens so I can't measure it myself. If someone who has it can please measure the square, I'd appreciate it.

Lenses / Re: Canon 17-40mm & ND filter
« on: January 16, 2014, 07:09:43 PM »
It's in the lens mount; you can cut the filters to size ;)

Doh. For some reason that gel holder in the back slid right in one ear and out the other. I think because of concerns about the disposable nature of the gels. Out of curiosity, what size does it need to be cut to? I checked the manual for the lens and while it mentions the gel holder, it does not say what size that marked square is. If I can get two or three out of a 3 stop 3" or 4" kodak wratten it may be worth doing that and a variable ND for my other glass that doesn't need the 10 or more stop reduction. At that point I could fashion a small case with separation papers and maybe a pair of plastic tweezers for handling the cut gels to try make them last.

One thing that does appeal to me about trying it this way is that it would open up using my polarizer on the front of the lens without introducing major vignetting.

Has anyone tried using this rear gel slot? Any impact on IQ?

Thanks for the examples Surapon and kkelis.

Lenses / Re: Canon 17-40mm & ND filter
« on: January 16, 2014, 01:53:43 PM »
All ND filters have some color cast.

I just ordered a 6 stops Haida in 82mm for my 2470ii. I was thinking of getting Lee big stopper but I know that 6 stops will get used more.  If needed I can stack my Lee 0.9 to add 3 more stops making it 9 stops. I love the versatility that this setup gives me.


I'm not concerned about consistent color cast, I usually have my CC Passport in my bag, so color correction and custom color profiles are easy enough to generate. I have seen some reports of filters being uneven either in density, or color. How are the Haida filters in that respect?

Lenses / Re: Canon 17-40mm & ND filter
« on: January 16, 2014, 11:33:42 AM »
Thanks everyone, that's very helpful.

Thanks for the examples DavidB. Appreciate you taking the time to do that.

Scottburgess - I would be using F8 - F11 range mostly. I might use wider apertures on something like my 70-200 2.8 or the longer end of my 24-70 but only if I were using maybe a 4x and my einsteins for portraits outdoors in sunny conditions. The rest would likely be an 82mm 10x filter on a step ring stopped down at the 17mm end of the 17-40. I am a little concerned about heavy vignetting from the perspective that I will likely want to do panoramas. I would definitely research specific products about color cast etc. before trying one.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Sigma 50 f/1.4 Art Lens Should be Amazing
« on: January 15, 2014, 09:09:50 PM »
I would have been happy with their last 50mm 1.4 if it had focused consistently (or at least predictably). I hope this one can manage that, if it can I'll be taking a very serious look at it though I'll also be curious to see what Canon can manage with their new (rumored) 50 1.8 IS when it is used wide open.

Lenses / Canon 17-40mm & ND filter
« on: January 15, 2014, 09:07:27 PM »
I was wondering if anyone out there is using a Canon 17-40mm lens with a high (i.e. 10 stop) ND filter. I'm thinking of building a small set of 82mm ND filters (separate, not variable - probably a 4 and a 10 stop to start with) along with step rings so I can use it on all my glass.

I guess the question is two-fold:
Is anyone using strong ND filters with this lens and do you see any vignetting on the 17mm end?
Any ramifications to using an 82mm ND filter and step ring to put it on the 77mm thread of the 17-40 lens?

TIA for any info.

Canon General / Re: Review - Canon EF 85mm f/1.8
« on: December 30, 2013, 06:28:46 PM »

I'm glad to hear it's working so well for you and it's funny how each lens (and lens+body combination) can yield such different results.  The 85 1.2 II focuses very accurately, but it is painfully slow, no matter the light.  Maybe I didn't give the 1.8 enough time, but the copy I used had horrible CA to point of the circling the retina/cornea border until about f/2.8.  My 50 f/1.4 on the other hand was great at f/2 as you can see in the example below:

Hey, if it works for you, it's miller time. Or whatever beer you drink. If you drink beer.

Now I want a whiskey.

I'll freely admit I have not had very good luck with 50s. I really loved the color, sharpness, etc. of the Sigma 50 1.4 but the erratic auto focus was off by so much (and so unpredictably back and front focusing) that I couldn't use it with any confidence. Still bummed about it, because the glass was fantastic.

I think your bad luck with your 85 copy balanced out in a good way with your 50. If my 50 looked like that at F2 I'd keep it. Mine has too much of the 'dreamy' look to it (that to me looks less dreamy, more like slight milky blur - that's the best I can describe it).

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