January 29, 2015, 09:22:02 AM

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Messages - eninja

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Get yourself a Colorchecker from X-rite (my original reply), this will help you set up a color profile in horrible light and, wait for it... it has grey chips and white balance chips. You can do it all from there.

Look, lots of these so called pros here on this site are pros in their own mind... and would rather go on and on about this or that. They're easy to spot, they can't show any work for "privacy" issues and they're more interested in listing all of their precious gear. Take anything said as gospel with a grain of salt the size of Gibraltar. At the end of the day, it's you sitting in front of the computer looking at your own work. You choose what you like, you're the photographer. Work flow is important and if something can make your life easier (ie using a Colorchecker), do it and move on. All I know is when I have a few hundred photos to get to the client the next day, setting up a color profile gets you very close to what need. You will then have to make a judgment call and decide where you want the WB when dealing with mixed lighting... there is no simple one size fit all answer.

Your right, colorchecker it is.
after all what is better than having the same object in your photos and also in your hand while you are editing.
Thanks. I will go this direction.

The first thing you have to realise, WB is subjective. If you do a 'true' WB at an event and then process all your images to that value then you often find all the character from the event disappears, effectively neutral white has no ambiance so dialing in a perceived WB value (the subjective part) will better replicate the feel of the event. Obviously the type and style of event will dictate how much ambiance you want to leave in.

Exactly my thought, in many cases, perfect white balance is nice, but in many cases, I prefer to balance colors to suit the way I saw them.  I photographed a event last week where the director used a lot of colored lighting.  White balance makes no sense.

Thanks for your example.
How did you set (attained) your white balance for this?
I bought expodisc expecting that alas my problem solved, in the end expodisc only help a bit.
my vision still has the last say. They never mentioned that in the expodisc review.

I understand that my question was answered a lot of times.
in the end, while editing I will use my vision to judge;
I'll start with using click white balance tool. then proceed using the white balance slider
to adjust and judge how really the ambiance look base from my memory.

Any suggestion on nailing the skin tone? - color passport checker?

Photography Technique / Re: Indoor Wedding help
« on: January 22, 2015, 03:07:45 AM »
If I use speedlite. I always shoot manual mode with flash set to ettl.
Professionally wise, I chose manual, I manually set aperture, shutter speed and ISO, depending on the meter reading on the viewfinder.

Reason behind is, you take control. Usually when I shoot auto mode, there's often tendency the resulting image for some reason gets underexpose or over expose, during this time, its time consuming to think what went wrong.

so I better use M mode. with flash exposure compensation.

My suggestion is, use a diffuser, use M mode and ettl. set ettl to +2/3 meter exposure between -1 to 0. focus and press the shutter.

I use the Colorchecker Passport for all event work with mixed lighting... make a DNG dual profile and use it for every shot in the same area.

I will consider your workflow, care to elaborate what does make a DNG dual profile means?

I started covering event, and recently got problem on color of my photos.
So I calibrate monitor and take into account white balance of scene,
and correcting white balance in post processing as standard first step to address this color issue.

I bought expodisc too.
during dpp editing:
photos taken indoors at fluorescent white light, when i try to click on white object, or try to use the photo from expodisc as my reference white balance. the resulting photo ambient light look worst than when use the auto whitebalance settings. look worst, i mean, ambient light and skin tone more saturated yellow.

So my question is, is white object and grey photo from expodisc really is the best reference for white balance?
or I need to trust my vision (to identify color cast and adjust accordingly)


EOS Bodies / Re: Canon EOS Rebel 750D Spec List [CR1]
« on: January 21, 2015, 09:47:47 PM »
Maybe this camera cater for the entry user market.
Professionals will always think more than twice to use rebel - so pro camera such as 70D above (my opinion) is safe.
entry market is now looking for high tech features like touch screen, NFC etc.
thus, these cameras.
you won't understand unless you look at business perspective.
- my opinion

Software & Accessories / Re: Any value in using DPP along side Lightroom?
« on: January 19, 2015, 10:46:27 PM »
I will try lightroom and see if workflow is faster.
For me time is more precious than the small advantage of dpp (if there is).

I find dpp very slow for editing hundred images at a time.
Also, if dpp does not allow me to copy only specific setting to other images.

example, I only want to copy noise reduction parameter to other images.
but theres no way to do that in dpp, all settings (brightness and sharpness are also copied).
main reason why need to try lightroom.

Any comment?

Software & Accessories / Re: DPP 4.1 - No exif on jpeg upon conversion.
« on: January 19, 2015, 03:17:38 AM »
Thanks. I found the culprit.
    Shooting info Setting: was set to remove all shooting info.

My mistake, but honestly I found canon software menu not so understandably organized.

Software & Accessories / Re: DPP 4.1 - No exif on jpeg upon conversion.
« on: January 19, 2015, 12:46:25 AM »
Wehen I convert from Raw to Exif-Jpeg.
The resulting Jpeg does not have exif.

Am I missing something? or this is a bug?

I've just tried it with DPP and the jpeg does have EXIF info.

If it is so. I wonder what could be the culprit.
The hardest thing I could try is re-install DPP 4.1.5.

I will do and update.

Lenses / Re: New Rebel & EF 11-24 f/4L USM Coming Shortly
« on: January 18, 2015, 09:29:35 PM »
Ok so reading through these threads I did see one person say that this is a perfect lens for him because it will likely be relatively light and really wide and therefore perfect for using when hiking to get amazing landscape photos. 

I assume that 11 is so much better than 14 that it will be better than using the samyang and that the person using the 11-24 is a much better hiker than I and not worried about tripping and breaking a 3K lens.  Who else is this lens for?  It does sound like people have been dissapointed with the 16-35 II.  if this is just a better lens then it might replace that but I always felt that the 2.8 and 24-35 range were important for that lens for event photography. 

I'd love to know what applications this lens is great for...It sounds like a professional landscape lens to me....the wide angle equivalent of the 400 2.8 for sports photographers.  If that is the case and it performs as well I'm sure those folks will be thrilled and the rest of us will just gawk at their amazing photos. 

However, that is a pretty niche group.  The rest of us will settle for 17-40 or 16-35

Architecture - it's what pays my wages ;-)
Landscape I enjoy, but there's not (nearly enough) money in it (well, not doing what I like and where I live in the UK)

I have the 14mm and it's OK for many things where I want wide, but for architectural use I prefer the 17mm, shifted up/down if needed. Also the 8-15, with remapping the image geometry in varying ways.

It takes a fair bit of practice to be able to effectively use very wide angle, but it enables me to get some shots that I couldn't get in other ways. As I mentioned earlier, I'm looking forward to seeing how it expands what I can do - 14mm to 11mm may not sound much to some, but combined with the 17mm and 8-15, I'm just left waiting for a camera to replace my 1Ds 3 ;-)

I recently produced a new web site just for our architectural work and IIRC, over 50% of the images I used the TS-E17 (add in the TS-E24 and EF8-15 and it's probably over 90%)

I'd expect an 11-24 to contribute a fair bit to our bottom line ;-)

PS If anyone's curious, I was recently interviewed by X-Rite specifically about my architectural photography

Thanks for sharing - regarding architectural photography and other stuff. More power.

When I convert from Raw to Exif-Jpeg.
The resulting Jpeg does not have exif.

Am I missing something? or this is a bug?


EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 6D wi-fi question
« on: January 14, 2015, 11:33:42 PM »
Windows EOS utility have wifi remote app, that whenever you take photo allows you to transfer each photo taken to a directory in the pc via wifi router.

Problem is, you need a windows image viewer that display the latest photo on that directory. (I don't know if there is such software) - you can try settings in EOS utility to allow display photo that was just transferred.

Another good option.

Buy Toshiba FlashAir sd card. If you have android table. The Flash Air app will display latest photo taken each time, transfer time is about 30sec. Your problem now is, how to connect projector to the android tablet.

Hi Mt Spokane,

Thank you for your advise. Ok, I will start by calibrating my monitor
and buy consumer grade printer and work up and learn from there before I get those expensive inkjet. I will forget dye sub for the mean time.

What is the main difference of cheap vs expensive inkjet? pixma ip series and pixma pro?
Paper they can handle? Color Only?

Thanks guys for the inputs, a lot of infos to get start on.

I think the most expensive part of this system is the printer.

If I will get a printer now, I plan to use it once in a while.

I have a bad views or impression on inkjet printer.
10 years ago, I own one, and there are few reasons why I hate inkjet,
    1. it eats up ink, - i need to warm them up before they start,
    2. nozzle can get problem,
    3. paper try is open, so dust can accumulate,
    4. ink can get dry and cause problem
    5. to much moving parts that my previous computer table is vibrating
Is it really best to get inkjet? pixma pro to be specific? using it like once in a month.

Or should I just get dye sub instead?
Does Dye sub dont have this problem? I may just get dry sub, cheaper cartridge.

Hi, I would like to learn to do photo printing the right way.
I went to a photobook service. I gave them the softcopy photos, but when I received the photobook.
The color of photos got tint on them like I use wrong white balance.

I want to try to print myself from scratch and learn from it.

1. What printer should I get, relatively cheap and for personal use?
2. What are the things I should consider/needed, hardware and software wise?
        - I have read about monitor profile, but never take a look into it
        - I have read about X-rite i1 display, but I don't know how it relate to printing

Appreciate your inputs and experience.

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