Similar spec lens, similar sized sensor, and you're not planning on changing lenses.
How much do you value the viewfinder?
How much do you value the viewfinder?
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I bought the 14mm after reading the hype and it was awful. Users also said it was EF, but it came with a note in the instructions stating that it was optimized for crop cameras and FF users should expect poorer quality. That was a understatement.
You might have bought the wrong lens. There is the Bower 14mm, which is for APS-C (albeit with an EF mount), and then there are the Rokinon/Samyang 14mm IF ED UMC. They have different specs.
It largely depends on the model. I had the SLR Zoom version for some time - it worked within its limits. However, one of the plastic cups broke (its quite a common problem), and from then on, not only wouldn't it grip onto anything, but it couldn't even hold its own weight up when using it as a mini tripod. I now have the focus version (with metal cups in the legs), and it is good for what it is. However, if wrapping around something to mount a camera for any long duration (more than a few minutes), I'd only consider using it in combination with a good buckle strap tightly wrapped around the legs.I tried one in store and could not get it to hold onto anything.....Tied with the "tripod" that has flexible legs and can supposedly wrap around a fence post or branch.I really hope I am not the only one who fell for that, this thing can barely carry its own weight, but it really reminded me of the "buy cheap, pay double" saying
With the model I know they're smart enough to put it into a tight casing so you have to buy it before realizing that it's no good ... and in addition to that I ordered mine online, not a large loss of $$$ mind you but that's probably just what keeps them going.
Love mine. Holds my 5diii with grip and 16-35/24-105/100 IS with no problems. Much easier to hike with than a full size tripod.
So, my question from the original post, again: Is the sensor in the Samsung NX300 or NX1000, the same sensor as found in the Sony RX100? Really the NX1000 is more appealing to me, as it is sale-priced down to around $355, including a 20-50 zoom lens (the NX300 is about the same price as RX100). Is this not also the same sensor as found in one of the Sony Nex models?The RX100 has a 2.7x crop sensor (so called 1", same size as in the a Nikon 1 range), and Samsung ILC's have 1.5x crop APS-C sensors. I have a vague memory that Samsung make their own sensors, but don't quote me on this.
Or, read this to get an idea how long your shutter could last: http://petapixel.com/2012/12/22/look-up-your-cameras-lifespan-with-the-shutter-life-expectancy-database/
Interesting read, looking at the 40d,50d,550d models it seems that if your shutter survives longer than the estimated rating (100k), it is likely to survive even much, much longer. The big question would be why - either these people got "lucky" and their hardware is better, or they shoot at lower shutter speeds or whatnot and there is a cause and effect.
Shutter life is rated based on previous product history for items with a similar design. I haven't seen any authoritative info on the T3i shutter life, but most of the Rebels were up to 100,000 actuations. They last a little longer because they are limited to 1/4000 sec, otherwise I'd expect a shorter life.
In reality, a shutter may die after 1 use, or last for 10 million. I wouldn't worry about it, all indications are that it might go for a million or more. The ones that were going to fail have already failed.
I think you misunderstand what I'm trying to find. Almost all regular shutter releases can do the two functions I asked about. What I'm trying to find is a wireless shutter release with the two functions that also doesn't preclude me from being able to mount a speedlight to the hotshoe.
My hähnel Giga T Pro II does half-press half press for AF, full press for release or continuous burst. It connects to the remote port, so while the receiver can be mounted in the hotshoe, it doesn't need to be (which is good, as that's where the ST-E3-RT sits.
When your ST-E3-RT is on the hotshoe, do you just have your hahnel receiver dangling from a wire off the 3-pin port or something?
Wire free, the RT flash system will allow remote camera triggering of later cameras such as the 5D mk III as far as I know.
So basically I need:
600EX-RT (x2) or
600EX-RT + ST-E3-RT
What you're saying is that one of the units sits on the hotshoe, and I use the second unit as the remote. I'm looking through http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2013/remote_camera_firing_speedlite600exrt.htmlp and it doesn't seem like the remote trigger has a half-press AF feature though?
In any case, this seems like complete overkill for what I'm looking for.
I actually don't understand why this aspect has not yet been discussed - not here, nor an Facebook, but eventually I am just wrong:
If you have phase detection capability on *every* pixel of your sensor, which means for *every* pixel in the final picture, it should be easy to get a 3D image from it.
As I understand phase detection AF, you can actually get the *distance* from just one metering.
Buffer the readout of *ALL* dual pixels, render the image from the light, save a "debth map" document alongside to the image and let the software on a PC render the scene in 3D. Or let the camera do it. There are even 3D capable displays that could be used in camera.
What did I overlook on the technical side?
I think, THIS would be a HUGE step in photography. Although I am completely happy with 2D, but 3D movies and TVs showed us where things could lead us. Then 3D images for everyone were just a logical step.
Any thoughts on this?
how about the sigma 18-35 f/1.8? what do you think that would compare to on ff?
okay sounds reasonable. how about if we look at a real world example like the sigma 120-300 but we think its a bit short for a wildlife lens on a ff camera so instead of cropping or using a tc, lets we put it on a crop body instead. how about this also, if an image cropped from a ff body can be similar to one taken with the same lens on a crop body then is it possible that an image taken with a sharper faster but shorter lens on a crop body could be similar to one taken with a longer not quite as sharp or fast lens on a ff body?