Messages

1

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 40D vs. 6D AF

« on: May 13, 2013, 04:26:03 PM »

I have both the 40D and the 6D. The only real difference I have noticed is that the 6D is able to focus with way less light. Now in all fairness, I typically am a centre point shooter most of the time and the 6D is definitely better at that. If you are happy with your 40D, they you will have no issues with the 6D.

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Buying a new camera - 650D, 700D or 60D, thoughts and suggestions?

« on: May 13, 2013, 02:13:54 PM »

You won't see a huge difference in image quality over your 400D. Yes they can do higher ISO but that doesn't mean you should use it! Basically, I have found that for any of Canon's crop cameras, anything over ISO 1600 is very messy. You can clean it up with NR but you lose a lot detail that way. Between the 3 bodies you mention, 650D, 700D or 60D, I doubt you will see a stitch of difference IQ wise between them as they all essentially use a very similar sensor if not the same. Even the 7D is no different IQ wise. Where you do benefit is in build quality and speed. If you are shooting RAW, then even the Digic chip differences mean little to nothing. If you shoot Jpeg, then the newer ones will help some. The 60D is a better build than the Rebels but the latest Rebels have some features that the 60D doesn't have. Basically, hold them in your hand and see which one feels the best (feel and button placement) and which features you care about. They will all give you the essentially same IQ and really not that much better than your 400D - just more cropping ability
My 2 cents.

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EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 700d/100d as a first DSLR or wait for 70d?

« on: April 05, 2013, 05:44:29 PM »

The best advice I can give is to go to a store and handle each one. Pick the one that feels the best in your hands. Between the 100D, 700D, 650D, 600D, 60D, etc. you are unlikely to see any difference in image quality (even at 100%) as they all use essentially the same sensor/tech. The only difference you will notice is how they feel and how much you are willing to pay. They will all produce great results if you know how to use them.
A good lens will make a bigger difference that any differences between these bodies. Remember, think of camera bodies especially in the XXXD and XXD range as disposable every few years. Investing in good lenses will outlast any of these bodies.

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Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: What size Softbox

« on: April 04, 2013, 02:46:24 PM »

I am writing about the studio set up seen in the photo on this page showing the two alien bee 800's with the umbrellas. I am going to shoot bands and am curious what the two lights are that are being used to light the back drop.

Not directly familiar with which lights are used in the picture. However, the basic idea is that you try to meter the backdrop (for white) 1 stop over your subject, your key at 0 and your fill at -1. This will make the background completely white without bleeding back onto the subject. Keeping your fill at -1 helps your subject not have flat lighting but some soft shadows. So basically, almost any colour matched light source works for the background - just don't over do it. A light meter will greatly help in setting it all up correctly.
Just my 2 cents.

5

Lighting / Re: Request advice for quality home portrait lighting in tight space...

« on: January 31, 2013, 02:58:15 PM »

I have found many of the ebay stands are of poor quality. I bought a set for a project and was very disappointed. They were rather flimsy and tipped over easily especially if using a soft box or umbrella. I ended up getting much better ones locally for not much more cost. They are much more sturdy. The last thing you want is for your lights to come crashing down.

As for lighting, I am in a similar situation with not a large space. I originally tried with some ebay monolights but the output control on them is terrible. I have switched to using speedlites and life is much easier. They are very portable and have plenty of power in a small space. Continuous lights might be easier for some situations but are more difficult to control the individual output. Just my 2 cents...

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 7D - How bad is it? Really?

« on: January 23, 2013, 09:59:22 AM »

The 7D still is a great camera. However, ISO wise it is really no better than any other current 18MP APS-C cameras - even the Rebels. The key to having less noise in your high ISO shots is to have good light. In poor (low) light, ISO 1600 will look noisy on a 7D. With better light you can go up to 6400 in a pinch and it may look OK. Just don't try using 6400 in very low light as the noise will be very bad.
In terms of comparing it to your 30D, try this site: http://www.imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP/COMPS01.HTM
It allows you to compare different models side by side. Just bear in mind that these are studio shots with good light so it makes it hard to see huge differences.
Handling wise, you will definitely enjoy the 7D over the 30D. Almost everything about it is a vast improvement.

7

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon EOS 6D Specs Leaked?

« on: September 15, 2012, 12:03:08 PM »

I may be out in left field but Canon may have been a bit concerned that the D600 was going to be $1500. They were then in the position to try to come up with something to be in that range as well. Thus the 11 point AF etc. GPS and wifi were likely added to make it sound better as both of those cost next to nothing to add. Now that the D600 is out at a higher price with better specs, I can bet Canon is going back to the drawing board. These "specs" may have just been released to get feedback which if they read this forum, feedback has been loud and clear!

8

Lenses / Re: best wide or ultra wide angle lens for crop sensorh

« on: August 16, 2012, 10:48:36 AM »

I ended up going with the Sigma EX 10-20 f4-5.6. I had read horror stories about Sigma's quality control. However, after shooting with it only a short time, I realized that they are not all bad lenses - well not mine at least! I have tried both the canon 10-22 and the Tokina 12-24 and I have found my Sigma is sharper than either of the other copies I tried. As well, mine seems to have little to no CA. So, your mileage may vary but I have been extremely pleased with mine.

9

Lenses / Re: ND Filter system for landscape photography question

« on: June 18, 2012, 03:01:48 PM »

I use the Cokin P series which will go up to an 82mm filter size. I have both the triple holder as well as the single. The triple vignettes badly on my 10-20mm but the single does not. I have had good success with the Cokin brand of filters and have not had any colour cast. Cheap eBay ones do colour cast badly - which I found out the hard way. I have a Cokin ND8 grad (3 stop) that I use mostly. I'm not sure I would bother with a 2 stop as I often find the 3 stop is often not enough but maybe that's just me. Lee filters are great/ likely better but not cheap!!!

10

Lighting / Re: The Flash Bracket? Do they really matter anymore?

« on: June 06, 2012, 03:03:24 PM »

I use this one (after removing the annoying strap part and the screws that hold it) and it is very solid and not expensive. http://www.amazon.com/Polaroid-Folding-Bracket-Digital-Cameras/dp/B004LOHEFK
The only downside to it is that the top bar that holds the flash is very smooth and so the flash can rotate - especially if using an OC-3 cord. I put some friction tape (kind of like hockey stick tape) on the top and that solved it. Oh, and it is big enough to hold my gripped 40D.

11

Technical Support / Re: owners name on camera info

« on: June 06, 2012, 12:01:23 PM »

Not sure how to do it in camera. I do it on import but I use Aperture where it is very easy to add.

12

Lighting / Re: The Flash Bracket? Do they really matter anymore?

« on: June 06, 2012, 11:59:33 AM »

I think the flash bracket is still very useful. The trouble with the E-TTL cord is that you end up needing a third hand to hold the flash. The bracket I use is quite simple to flip over to portrait mode and the shadow improvements are huge - saves a ton of PP.

Interesting, Where does the third hand come into play though?

One hand holding camera in portrait orientation.

One Hand holdling flash high.

For me, I like to hold the camera body with two hands - for zoom, focus, and stability. If you want to make any adjustments on the camera, you still have the flash in your left hand making it a bit tricky. I tried doing a portrait shoot with just the E-TTL cord and it drove me nuts. Bought the bracket the next day and never looked back!

13

Lighting / Re: The Flash Bracket? Do they really matter anymore?

« on: June 06, 2012, 11:33:41 AM »

I think the flash bracket is still very useful. The trouble with the E-TTL cord is that you end up needing a third hand to hold the flash. The bracket I use is quite simple to flip over to portrait mode and the shadow improvements are huge - saves a ton of PP.

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Landscape / Re: Post Your Best Landscapes

« on: May 09, 2012, 05:59:14 PM »

Mount Kidd in Fall

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Landscape / Re: Post your best pictures of fireworks

« on: February 15, 2012, 05:08:53 PM »

Took this shot last summer on Canada day.
6 second - f16 - ISO 100