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Messages - dshipley

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1
Contests / Re: Gura Gear Giveaway!
« on: December 07, 2012, 04:11:12 PM »
I want to win!

2
This is a purely hypothetical question but I'm guessing many of you have thought about it once or twice.

I'm curious if anyone else would consider a DSLR designed, dedicated and optimized solely for still photography  worthwhile / desirable?

Quite simply: If you could get better still images from a camera without video, would you buy it?

-  Would you buy it instead of a hybrid model with video features if it produced better still images?
-  Would you buy it if the images were the same but it was designed differently for still photography use?

Does anyone else think compromises might exist in hybrid DSLR designs in order to offer HD video on the same sensor?

-  Would a sensor designed for dedicated still photography perhaps offer better specs, IQ, sensitivity, speed, [insert other perceived benefit here]?
-  How much better would a dedicated still photography camera perform if it didn't have to produce video as well?
-  Would the CPU, processing and firmware possibly be less complex, more efficient and stable?
-  Would the control layout and ergonomics, menus, etc be easier to use and offer more versatility and/or control?
-  Is it possible that video features have delayed R&D while engineers work out new challenges due to the hybrid designs?
-  Do you think video increases the price of the camera?  Is it logical to think a dedicated still camera might cost slightly less while still offering better images?

Just thought I would throw it out there to chew on.  Might make an interesting discussion.  Thanks for your time.

Cameras dedicated solely to photographic image quality already exist... they're called Medium Format DSLRs.

If we're talking about 35mm (Full Frame) and smaller DSLRs you're still looking at cameras that are optimized for photography over video. So while current DSLR sensors do allow video they do so without making any concessions to photographic quality. There are many ways that sensors in current DSLRs could be optimized specifically for video capture, but doing so would lower the sensors photography advantages.

3
As many other people have mentioned I would also suggest picking up the 5D2 over the 5D1 for the added benefits it provides.

You mentioned wanting to pick up a 70-200 f/2.8L IS, but you might also consider selling a few of your current lenses as your focal lengths will change when moving to full frame. Lets take a look at what you currently have and the focal lengths that they are on your T3...

28 f/1.8 (~45mm)
50 f/1.4 (~80mm)
100 f/2.8L IS Macro (~160mm)
24-105 f/4L (~38-168mm)

You might not be satisfied with the quality of the 28 and the 50 on a full frame camera as your current T3 only is using the center of the lens (image quality tends to be best in the center of a lens). If you're shooting portraits and landscapes and prefer zooms you might consider selling all your lenses except the 100 f/2.8L IS Macro and buying a used 24-70 f/2.8L or if you don't need f/2.8 you could always just sell the 28 and the 50 and pick up a used 70-200 f/4L IS.


4
EOS Bodies / Re: How often do you go through a body? Why do you upgrade?
« on: November 01, 2012, 09:45:43 AM »
I upgrade/buy gear based on a number of things...

1. What I'm primarily shooting
2. If the quality of my images are being limited by the item
3. If the item will improve my productivity (time=money)
4. If maintaining/repairing the item becomes more expensive than investing in a new item
5. Product update cycles/life cycles/price cycles

My Body History:

2005 - Nikon D50
2006 - Nikon D70s/Nikon D100
2007 - Nikon D70s/Nikon D100
2008 - Nikon D3/Nikon D70s
2009 - Nikon D3/Nikon D70s
2010 - Nikon D3/Nikon D70s
2011 - Canon 5D2/Nikon D3/Nikon D70s
2012 - Canon 5D3/Nikon D3/Nikon D70s

Currently I use the 5D3 (gripped) as my primary body, the D3 when I need speed, and I don't really use the D70s (emergency backup).

5
Lenses / Re: What lenses do you own?
« on: October 16, 2012, 04:07:03 PM »
1. Lenses (I'll just list my Canon lenses):
  • 35 f/1.4L - I love this lens. Great for almost any kind of photography especially where you need to capture a subject along with the environment.
  • 85 f/1.8 - Great portrait lens and performs wonderfully for its price. Is one of my favorite focal lengths, however, since buying the 135L I find I use it less and less.
  • 135 f/2L - My primary portrait lens and by far one of the best lenses in terms of value. It performs exceptionally well.

Next on my list is the 50 f/1.2L as I'm getting tired of renting it.

2. I've been "into" photography for almost 8 years and have been working as a professional for 6 years.

3. Advice:
  • Shoot and critique or have someone critique your work often (never stop learning)
  • Equipment doesn't make a photographer, but the right equipment can make a job easier
  • Buy only the equipment you NEED, rent everything else
  • Network, get to know and learn from other creative people in your area
  • Make mistakes, just don't make them more than once

6
That is why "most" shoot raw. so they can adjust everything in post.
Same is true for video if raw is a option then there is no need for cinestyles.
This is not true.  Red and the Blackmagic cinema cameras shoot in RAW and they also shoot very flat.  I am interested in a knowledgable answer to this question too, as I want to expand the dynamic range of my DSLRs.

Short Answer: The appearance or look of RAW files are always the result of some kind of software or hardware processing. It is completely up to the processing of said hardware or software that determines how the image/video looks.

All RAW file types are different (some more than others and some less than others), but in both still and video RAW files contain the uncompressed or compressed Bayer Sensor Data along with some other items (metadata related to camera settings, type, etc). In order to see a preview from either requires demosaicing of the Bayer Sensor Data. So depending on demosaicing process (along with any other processes that are carried out along with it... white balancing, noise reduction, etc) you end up with an actual image (or preview).

RAW files from still cameras tend to have a processed JPEG within the RAW file wrapper for fast previewing purposes. So your camera that has essentially provided the demosaicing and other processing for previewing on the back of the camera. This is why changing your Picture Style while shooting RAW will still change what the preview image looks like on the back of the camera. Also, once you open your RAW image in software the software is providing the demosaicing and other processing to render the preview you see on screen.

RAW files from video cameras typically don't have transcoded previews within the RAW file wrapper for fast previewing and therefore require some sort of transcoding to preview. When previewing the footage on camera the camera is again doing the work while software does this if previewing on a computer.

7
Just about to pull the trigger on a 5D Mk III to replace my 40D as main body.
I currently have a couple of Sandisk Extreme 60mb/s 8gb cards.
I was thinking of getting a 32GB for the 5D Mk III. And hope to use it for both stills and video capture.
So do I just get a Sandisk Extreme 60mb/s 32gb card or would i be better advised to pay extra now for a Extreme Pro 90mb/s ? Is the extra cost really worth it? Will I be dissapointed with the performance of the 60mb/s cards? Or how about going all out and getting a Lexar Professional 1000x card? Are these as reliable as Sandisk?

So many questions  :)

You can't go wrong with either SanDisk or Lexar for CF cards (I own several of both brands). Having said that if you can afford to I'd highly recommend investing in the fastest cards you can (preferably the Lexar 1000x... and it looks like B&H has a pair of Lexar 1000x 16GB cards on sale currently for under $150) as you'll appreciate their ability to quickly clear the camera's buffer.

8


+1 for the statement, but -1 for research: Unfortunately the 6d has *not* the 1dx/5d3 center af point (double-cross @f2.8), it doesn't even have the 60d/650d/... single-cross point) - it's the same as the 5d2!


It actually has a cross type sensor with improved sensitivity to -3EV compared to the 5D2's -2EV. So it is not the same as the 5D2.  Until someone gets their hands on the camera and compares the AF who can say how it will perform?

It will also be interesting to see if it has the improved focus control for the new lenses that Roger has documented. 

This is a feature of the 5D3 and 1DX that Canon's marketing departmnet is failing to exploit.  With the new lenses the phase detect AF of the camera is as accurate as the contrast detect.   

Yes, the center point is a cross type with sensitivity from -3 to 18 EV... however the other 10 are not cross type and have sensitivity of +0.5 to 18 EV. Granted we haven't seen the performance of it yet, but looking back at Canon's previous product history this tells me that while the center point may be better than the 5D2 everything else will be worse. Even the 60D has 9 all cross type points including a center double cross type point.

9
Honestly, I think Canon has some big issues right now in their lineup across the entire field... the 6D of course being the biggest issue.

Logically I think most people would expect two things when it comes to what products a company offers and how they are priced...

1. As pricing increases in the product line so do the features and capabilities of the products being sold.
2. Products are typically made to suite a certain consumer market group (consumer market group could be skill level or even the the type of photography/environment that the camera is suited for).

Currently Canon doesn't do either of those. For example lets look at X-Sync Speed...

60D - 1/250 sec
7D - 1/250 sec
6D - 1/180 sec
5D3 - 1/200 sec
1DX - 1/250 sec

There's no reason for the 5D3 and the 6D to have lower X-Sync Speeds than the 60D. Another example AF points...

60D - 9 points, all cross type, center double cross type (0 to 20 EV)
7D - 19 points, all cross type, center double cross type (-0.5 to 18 EV)
6D - 11 points, center cross type (center point -3 to 18 EV, the rest +0.5 to 18 EV)
5D3 - 61 points, up to 41 cross type (-2 to 18 EV)
1DX - 61 points, up to 41 cross type (-2 to 18 EV)

So the 6D's center point works to -3 EV, but the rest operate a +0.5 EV and they're not even cross type (worse than 60D)... ?

Build quality appears to show a similar trend with the 7D looking like it's more robust than the 6D... and the 7D has a 100% viewfinder and a pop-up flash.

I'm not sure who the 6D really is for. The 7D is overall a better camera on paper for an advanced amateur. The 6D has a very basic AF system (possibly the same or marginally better than the 5D2); has a slower continuous frame rate and max shutter speed than the 60D and 7D; isn't made to withstand extreme environments; doesn't have a extremely high MP sensor; doesn't sync with studio strobes above 1/180 sec; and the list continues.

The only things it does have on the 60D and 7D appears to be ISO, Digic 5+, built-in WiFi, and built-in GPS (you could say MPs as well 20.1 vs 18, but the difference is so small what does it really amount to).

The 6D seems like a product that will trick people who don't know much about cameras into buying a more expensive product that they think is better, but really isn't.

10
EOS Bodies / Re: 5D 1DX joystick problem with sports
« on: September 19, 2012, 10:26:10 AM »
As someone who owns Nikon and Canon gear I was very happy when Canon added the joystick selection for AF points (like Nikon does) as I found Canon's old selection method slow and confusing, but it did have some issues. First, on 1D bodies or gripped bodies the joystick wasn't accessible when shooting in the vertical postion up until the 5DIII and the 1DX. Now that we have two joysticks for each shooting position my only real issues with the joysticks are...

1. Size and Sensitivity - On both my 5DII and now on the 5DIII I find that the button sometimes centers vs moves in the intended direction I'm trying to select (especially when trying to move in a diagonal direction). I'd imagine making the button slightly larger might help with this.

2. Single AF Point Movement Per Button Press - Currently if I want to move up three AF points I have to hit up on the joystick three times. This introduces more opportunities for issue #1 to happen (press the wrong direction or worse accidentally return the AF point to the "home" position). Instead it would be nice if you could press and hold the joystick in a direction and your selection would continue to move until you released the joystick in addition to the current one button press method.

11
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Canon 5D Mark II or a Real Video Camera?
« on: September 04, 2012, 10:08:32 AM »
OP, to get the best possible answer you really need to let us know what your budget is and what exactly you need to buy in that budget (cameras, audio recorders, mics, tripods, and stabilizers have all been mentioned). Also, it would be helpful to know any equipment you currently do own (such as lenses, etc) as that could help us make even better suggestions.

12
Lenses / Re: How to complete my lens lineup? Help!
« on: August 30, 2012, 12:58:30 PM »
OK guys, help me spend $3000.

I've got a 1D3 together with:

17-40/4L
24/3.5L II TSE
50/1.8 II
70-200/4L IS
100/2.8L IS

I'm going to "finish" my lens collection first then add a FF body at some point (5D2?). I'll probably get a couple of 600EX flashes too, but my 430EX on a cord works OK for the moment.

I think between the 17-40 and 70-200 I've got walkabouts sorted. I love fast glass but only have the 50/1.8. Most of my shooting is of the family (young kids) but I'd like to get into portraits at some point. I've just returned two Sigma 50/1.4s which front-focused even with +20 MA so my confidence is knocked with Sigma - shame as they were otherwise great lenses. The shortlist is:

35/1.4L $1330
50/1.4 $360
85/1.8 $370
85/1.2L II $2000
135/2L $980

I've pretty much discounted the 135/2 since it's too tight on a APS-H, and my 100/2.8 kind of fills that role. I like the idea of covering 35 and 85, and making do with my 50/1.8 until Canon manage to produce a decent 50mm lens. The 35/1.4L and 85/1.2L II would blow my budget slightly but the results look great! Alternatively I could downgrade to the 85/1.8 and buy two 600EXs and a STE3.

I'd welcome your thoughts - have I missed anything?

Thanks, Feck.

Personally, I'd go for the 35 f/1.4 and the 85 f/1.8 and would wait for Canon to release a new 50 before upgrading it, however, you'd still have enough budget left (especially if you buy the 35 and 85 used) to sell your 50 f/1.8 and pick up the 50 f/1.4 if desired.

13
I tend to forgo saying "F" most of the time and "Point" almost all the time. Some examples...

If I was asking for my 35L - "Can you hand me the 35?"

If someone asked me what I was shooting at - "I'm at one four, one one sixtieth, ISO 100 (so I'm shooting at f/1.4 at 1/160 sec at ISO 100)"



14
Lenses / Re: 40mm Pancake Killed the 50mm??
« on: July 17, 2012, 09:07:40 AM »
Hi,

I've had my 40mm f2.8 STM Pancake for a few weeks now. It's barely left my camera. I love it.

I'm seriously wondering if I'll ever use my 50mm f1.4 again - ?

OK, the 50mm is faster but I reckon the IQ from the 40mm is better. Plus, there's something about the 40mm that just 'works' for me.

Basically I wondering what other 40mm users think?

(I'm also thinking about selling my 50mm to fund the 135mm L, so I need a bit of convincing please!).

Any thoughts?

Cheers

Rhys

Since you have the 40 2.8 I'd personally suggest selling the 50 to fund the 135L. The 135L is an amazing lens and after using a 40 last night the 40 seems like a great mid range option until Canon updates their 50s.

15
Lenses / Re: New Canon 50mm Coming? [CR1]
« on: July 17, 2012, 08:55:32 AM »
All of Canons 50mm lenses lack something, maybe except for the 1.2L (which is in turn quite expensive).
The 1.4 is built way under par, and the dramatic difference between image center and corners makes it
easy to hate it. The 1.8 is an insult in its build quality, and the optically well performing 2.5 compact macro
is in desperate need of a better drive.

So yes, there is a lot of need for a new 50mm.

I still have a 1.8/50mm MkI, and I have the 2.5/50 compact macro.
The 1.8 is good enough for low light, and the 2.5 is good for general work.
Both are way from perfect.


1.8/50 with the mechanical build quality of the 1.2L at a price point of 350 USD or below would be a no-brainer.

Let's see what canon comes up with.

For the cost of the 1.2L it should be outstanding without any issues, but it isn't as there is a widespread issue of focus shifting and other focus issues.

I would love to see Canon release a decent 50 1.8 (~$250) and 50 1.4 (~$450) with good build quality and ring USM. Hopefully they'll come up with something along those lines.

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