To make matter worst, both EOS-M lenses have only a 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide band at the base to be grab . And they are VERY SMOOTH.
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56/2.0 and 80/2.8 is from light gathering point of view, not background burling effect. that is the same reason why Canon call the 22mm as 2.0 not 3.2.My intention is to use my "good old lens" along side with the 22/2.0 and the 18-55mm for the EOS-M. Never have any thought of replace them and going back to "stone age".With the Summiron, I will have a 56/2.0 ( 35mmm equivalent). With the Elmar, I will have a 80/2.8 ( 2 stops faster than the zoom). Together, with an adapter on each lens it will only take up 3.5 inches of space. Leica have a ring that allows you to put two lenses together in back to back position. The Elmar is collapsible. That will make a very small travel outfit. I do not even need to buy the two lenses. Another reason is the Bokeh on both lenses are excellent due to the perfectly round aperture with 10 0r 12 blades.
Too bad this idea does not plan out.
That would be a nice "stone age" travel kit .
Actually, you have 56/3.2 with the Summicron on EOS-M, and 80/4.5 with the Elmar. The bokeh would still be nice, but nothing like FF. That's the price of the crop.
40mm on crop will be 64mm angle of view in 35mm. It may be too narrow. If you want to go to the route of Leica lens. 35mm f 2.0 (Summicron) will be a better choice. It is about the same size of the 40mm f 2.0. If the price is too high, then you may try the 35mm f2.8 Summaron.I also have to consider that a new 50mm Canon (F/1.8 IS?) could (will eventually) be delivered, so I'm not sure about having (in the future) two prime lenses with the same focal lenght.
Maybe something different (the 100mms you mentioned, or a good 35mm...).
You may also have to consider that a new 50mm f/1.8 IS will cost $300-$400 and still won't deliver the umph. If I was looking for a really small manual lens for my mirrorless camera, I would consider something like Leica Summicron-C 40mm f/2 (I think it is $500-$800 used).
Bought the EOSM kit from directly from Amazon US brand new during the fire sale, so authorized dealer and in the US. Can't believe this happened a year and 10 days from ship date, and shutter count is probably in the neighborhood of 500. Thanks, I'll be sure to with my credit card company in regards to any possible extended warranty.
So for a more accurate description of what's going on, the LCD powers on, but no menus, settings, or text display. Images do not display when I try to cycle through images. When connected to the PC, the docking screen icon doesn't show as well, but is camera as expected is detected by the PC. The touch screen itself works as I can still move the focus box. The camera still takes pictures as I've taken some, and reviewed the sd card after.
The camera has never been dropped.
I'll give Canon and call and see what my options are. Thanks all!
You can cover the entire lens with a 61mm push on cap. I just got mine. You want to make sure it is a 61mm not 60mm. the standard push on cap for a 58mm filter lens is 60mm. I suggest you to try ii out before buying it.
I notice that the lens cap is attached not to the lens body but to the moving element group. This troubles me, as the lens cap protrudes, and thus it is likely to be hit, resulting in a direct impact to the focusing apparatus. It seems to me that with the lens cap removed, the tiny front element is exposed, but the focusing apparatus is better protected. Also, the lens cap does not protect debris from entering the focusing mechanism, only from contacting the front element. Hence, I think I'll forgo the use of the lens cap.
Just got mine and I noticed too that the lens cap is pretty thick being a center pinch style. I was thinking about just using a bare UV filter instead of lens cap. But I wonder if that would introduce some other complications. I was also thinking that perhaps it would help with flare as the ring on the filter may block some stray light. Comments?
I recently installed Magic Lantern on my M and appreciated the improved ability of manual focussing, thanks to the focus peaking feature.
Your observations match mine but before you rely on the M as a travel companion, use it under bad conditions before, that is hanging around your neck and doing 150+ pictures on two consecutive days.Thanks for the advice. No original strap is used to avoid the touch screen being set unintentionally with my body. I also try to shut off the camera more often to minimize battery drain. Will travel with two spare batteries.
One will demonstrate what havoc the touchscreen can create, the other what a fun power management with the M is.
I'm satisfied with the M now, but my first SE Asia trip with the M was quiet a learning curve
Agree, bigger sensor will win due to higher pixel count in resolution and over all noise(after down sized to the same pixel count of the cop). But if you cope the ff into the same pixel count of the crop sensor, the overall noise and resolution should be the same assuming a good lens is used. The crop sensor require 1.6 better resolution of the lens to get the same resolution of the ff.At least my proposed APS-H have a chance to beat or equal to the 1DX in terms of low light and frame rate with the portability of the 6D. What more can I ask for? Only draw back is that it has a low MP count. But Sony has just done that. There must be someone out there want such type of camera. The existing APS-C cannot match the FF in low light is due to the MP race. With the same technology and same pixel density( read it as pixel size), the APS-C will equal the FF in low light.It depends upon whether you are going to compare a 100% crop of each camera and look for noise, or compare the image as a whole (or even an equal crop of each).
If you chose to do the sensible comparison (images as a whole, or crop into the same section of each frame), then with equal technology between the formats, the bigger sensor wins every time.