« on: September 09, 2013, 08:34:08 PM »
All good questions. I will try to answer them the best I can:
- The lenses used were both 24-70 2.8 from their respective companies, in the case of the Canon it was the L II
- I used AWB (Ill explain why in a second)
- I used the Standard, default picture style on both cameras
- Could the green tint be fixed by shifting the WB, styles, or other settings? Probably, the one problem there is being able to say "this is how you do it in every case" as many users may be having different experiences depending on their lighting, lens, subject matter etc. So I try to stick more with "this is what I am seeing"
I believe the green cast is part of the camera's processing for 2 reasons:
1. Im not seeing it through the lens when the picture is taken.
2. The intensity of the green shade seems to be amplified with greater ISO. If you look carefully at the ISO color charts, you can visibly see this amplification happening each step up, both in the green swatch as well as the black border. It is also demonstrated with the ISO of the model at 400.
The suggestion on the RAW files is also appreciated and I know where you are coming from. I think the next time I do a buffer test it will be with JPEG only and RAW only.
I am hesitant to use many RAW images for analysis in these comparisons for a few assumptions (which also may be incorrect):
1. Everyone has a different way to process RAW, and in many cases, some people will be more or less effective & creative in processing RAW files than others. The variation you can get between someone who really knows what they are doing in RAW vs someone who doesn't is pretty wide.
2. Even converting the RAW files into JPEGs to display in the video often changes how they look comparatively.
3. I'm more interested in what the processors are doing in camera, as the typical user (example: soccer mom) wont even use RAW files.
Part of my shooting philosophy is that the more changes you have to make to a camera right out of the box, for example, changing WB for every lighting condition, changing & tweaking picture styles, converting RAW files a certain way is all useful and relevant, but the vast majority of users of these cameras do not want to have to change anything.
They want to open the box, shoot and get results and that is what I try to stick as close to as possible, what the "real world experience" with the camera will be, not so much how someone with an advanced knowledge will be able to "tweak it". I personally do not like changing WB and if I have a camera that requires it, I see this as a disadvantage, so I tend to shoot with AWB on both cameras to see how they differ. If that makes sense.
Im absolutely open to any ideas you guys have in terms of testing, and have implemented many. I really do want to make these tests as high quality as possible, so I certain appreciate your comments & feedback.