July 24, 2014, 07:48:28 PM

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Messages - Hannes

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It sounds like the rubber drying out, there are some easy fixes recommended.  I've had at least five 40D's, actually, more like 7 or 8.  I sold my last one this Spring.  I've never seen the issue, so it does sound like a age related issue.

There's no denying the 40Ds are getting on a bit. Lovely camera though and I'm sure it'll be remembered as one of the Canon greats of the digital age. If only it had slightly faster card writing facilities than it does

Lenses / Re: What Lenses are missing from Canon's range
« on: July 21, 2014, 12:09:33 PM »
EF-S prime in the range 20-24mm
EF-S 50-150 f2.8 IS
200mm f2.8 IS
100-300 f4 IS
A replacement to the 22-55mm would be nice, it is a very handy focal range. 20-50 f4 IS would be ideal and would make a killer holiday lens

Lighting / Re: Bare bulb mod
« on: July 20, 2014, 03:07:57 AM »
@Viggo: This might be quite coincidental, but this thread was posted just today (a thanks and a shout-out, Hannes!)

I was going to post it a week or two ago but forgot, this thread actually reminded me to do it :)

Lighting / Re: Bare bulb mod of YN-560 III (with pictures)
« on: July 20, 2014, 03:04:08 AM »
The capacitors retain enough charge to give you a potentially lethal shock even after you take out the battery.
I think the main reason for "bare-bulb"-ing is to have the non-directional light that you can shape as you want, especially with modifiers (well, that is my reason at least). Ideally, all light sources should start out as bare bulbs for maximum flexibility, but you can see how that will make the Speedlites extremely fragile.

This pretty much. The capacitor is buried deep inside the main flash body. Taking the batteries out and leaving it alone for a few days is one way.

Duct taping two of them together won't have the same effect as you don't get an evenish 180 degree spread. These are more directional than a proper studio strobe because they have the reflective aluminium at the back meaning there is a bit more light forwards so the spread is very similar to that of a stofen, just a stop at least more power.

I was quite worried about the fragility as well so that is why I added the acrylic (perspex) half tube to protect the tube. Another advantage I forgot to mention is that the flash will do many more pops before it starts overheating because the air can circulate through the half tube with it being open on both sides.

Attached are what a 120cm octa looks like with first bare bulbed yn560 and then a plain one

Lighting / Bare bulb mod of YN-560 III (with pictures)
« on: July 19, 2014, 05:09:38 PM »
I decided to try and see what happened if I modified the brilliant Yongnuo YN-560 III to bare bulb. End result was interesting, large modifiers are better filled and amount of light has increased by between 1/3 to 1/2 stop depending on modifier (bigger effect in softbox than brolly). Light has also turned a bit cooler as one of the fresnel lenses is slightly warming. The quality of light seemed a little better with less of a central hot spot and somewhat softer in a softbox and a fair bit harder in my PLM knock off (hobo lighting 163cm parabolic silver umbrella). I wonder if this is because there was less light spillage around the umbrella bouncing off the small room I was testing it in.

Now for pictures (first is clicky for all the pictures in the series):

Bare bulb modyfiying the Yongnuo YN-560 III flash

The flash before modding it. Please be aware that you could potentially electrocute yourself doing this if you don't know how to make sure the capacitor is empty. You could obviously ruin your flash as well, don't blame me in either case.

Taking off the side strips of rubber and metal clamps holding it in place

Completely disassembled. The wire on the left either needs to be soldered off the board and then back on again, cut and rejoined or the cage holding the flash tube and reflector in place to be cut open to let you take out the flash tube.

Cutting an aluminium blanking to replace the fresnel lens. 1.2mm aluminium sheet is ideal thickness. I used a standard hacksaw and metal file to finish the edges. I also tried polishing it with a dremel but results weren't good as the surface became more dull.

Blanking plate together with a piece of 32mm wide acrylic tube with 2mm thick walls cut in half. Piece is 60mm long.

Holes drilled, one is 5mm and the other 6mm. The larger hole is needed to pass the flash tube through and the smaller is perfect size to use the rubber retainers to protect the wires.

All fitted back together. I elected to cut the wire and solder it back together to avoid soldering on the PCB. This may increase resistance and decrease flash power slightly but I took that chance instead of risking ruining the flash. Rubber retainer has been cut in half as otherwise it wouldn't fit and the pieces are held in place with a bit of electrical tape on the backside. The white plastic basket holding the flash tube and reflector may need some bits snipped out of the sides to leave enough space to pass the wires up. Acrylic tube was glued on with epoxy glue as it would bond better between the uneven edge of the acrylic and the aluminium than super gluing (some poor sawing by me).

Total cost - about £5 with offcuts and epoxy glue off ebay and I still have enough parts to do another three flashes. It took about three hours in total as I was trying things as I went along and I don't have anywhere proper to work on these projects. If you have a normal work bench and know what you are doing I'm pretty sure you could knock one out in half an hour or so.

Canon General / Re: New Speedlite Coming? [CR2]
« on: July 17, 2014, 01:51:24 PM »
Wouldn't it be something if this new flash was being rolled out as one that could be controlled by a built-in radio wireless system in the new 7D? Yes, I know I'm reaching and just kidding.  At least, I hope that's not what it'll be cause I'd be too jealous.   
I think the regulatory environment makes a built-in radio transmitter for the 7d unlikely. They would need different models for countries that don't allow radio transmitters.

They already do for the 6D so why not?

Lighting / Re: large softboxes for speedlights - what are you using
« on: July 17, 2014, 01:04:15 PM »
I have a pixapro 24x36" and an essentialphoto 48" octa. Both are reasonably well made and very cheap but I don't know if you can get them across the pond. These come with Bowens-S fittings and grids. These would be my recommendation if you can get hold of them.

Just bear in mind that the large softboxes are not filled brilliantly by a single speedlight and the light output is pretty poor. Large silver reflective umbrellas may be an answer if you can live with slightly harder and more specular light. If you can spring for an umbrella type softbox that will save you a lot of hassle as I'm guessing you are using speedlights for portability.

I think canon have done the very sensible thing of updating their kit lens line up instead of the cameras. The new STM lenses are much nicer to use than the old kit lenses. Comparing the new kit lens to the old will make people want the newer lens, just getting rid of that old horrible focussing motor makes a massive difference. Also bearing in mind that most rebel user won't stray far from the kit 18-55 or possibly to the 55-250 the new lenses are going to be massively important for the appeal of the newer models despite the lack of updates.

What they should have done I think though it to have introduced a new 20-22 mpix sensor for the rebels to replace the ageing 18mpix as it would make the average consumer see the new sensor as an update. I'm pretty sure the 70D sensor will find its way into the 750D as it has always done in the past but it strikes me as being a little late but at least they have sensibly upgraded the 1200D to the 18mpix sensor instead of the now ancient 12mpix one. Nikon really beat them to it when it came to the entry level segment and I think Canon lost a lot of sales because of it.

As boring as these rebels are to us, these are what drives canon. I doubt there is any way Canon could survive on their single digit cameras, they need to bottom end to cover costs.

Software & Accessories / Re: To filter or not to filter
« on: July 14, 2014, 05:19:21 PM »
I rarely have filters on my lenses. Really the only times I put the filters on are when it is raining, when I'm worried about something hitting the front of the lens hard like gravel or if the filter is likely to get really dirty. Polarisers are different though and they often end up staying on the lens for a while for certain looks.

I used a CPL filter just last week when I went on a rib. It kept the salty water off the front and sorted out reflections so when I got back to land I could just take it off and I could shoot again. Then when I got home I put a UV filter on before running the camera through the shower and washed the polariser off in the sink. Easy and little risk of scratching either the lens or the filters.

I don't have enough filters to cover all my lenses but I don't see the problem with that really. I invariably use lens hoods when available and so far has never managed to scratch a lens or filter despite taking cameras to pretty wild places. I have some pretty dinged up lens hoods though including a sigma one which is cracked. I do have filters in the bag for weather sealed lenses though.

Lenses / Re: Canon EF 100-400 f/4.5-5.6L IS II [CR1]
« on: July 13, 2014, 05:03:18 PM »
100-300 f4 1.4x would be ideal, probably more than $2.5k though but one can always dream

Lighting / Re: Questions about octo/brolly/boxes...
« on: July 13, 2014, 02:14:33 PM »
As for size of the modifiers, what lights will you be using? If it is standard speedlights a 120cm octabox works but the amount of light is pretty limited as is a bigger silver reflective umbrella (160cm). I've tried both and they are certainly useable but expect to have to crank the flash/ISO or open up your aperture.

If you haven't played with off camera flash before I'd say get yourself two white shoot through umbrellas, 40"/100cm are ideal to learn with, two light stands and two holders though I'd get the bowens compatible speedlight ones for when you want to start experiment with soft boxes. Phottix make a nice version as does cotswoldsphoto on ebay if you are in the UK, in fact I'm pretty certain it is the same holder.

Canon General / Re: Should we tell them?
« on: July 07, 2014, 05:00:06 PM »
I offer people unsolicited advice all the time and have never had anything but positive feedback. Mostly I offer compositional advice or posing advice. If I see people taking a family photograph when I'm out, often I just take over and organise peoples family photo for them, tell everybody where and how to stand and how to frame a photo and take it for them. Most people are pretty happy when the get a professional family photograph for free. I suppose in the end peoples reaction will depend on the quality of the advice and how it's delivered.

I've found that people only hand me their camera if they've only briefly looked at mine. I think the outline of a 1 series makes everyone assume you are a pro but when they see just how battered it is they seem to think twice before handing me their gear. The cracked lens hood on the 70-200 which is superglued back together and then there are the big patches of missing paint on the hump of the prism where the camera has quickly been dropped on the ground and scraped a bit looks a bit tatty :)

The only place I will give unsolicited advice is at the zoo when people are using flash in the bits where you shouldn't be. I don't mind if people are ruining their photos but at least they shouldn't scare the animals.

Funnily enough the Olympic arena had led lights to simulate flashes in the stands, I never realised until I sat there.

Canon General / Re: Seeing Rebels....
« on: July 07, 2014, 04:33:23 PM »
I see quite a lot of rebels in the UK but I would say there's about as many entry level nikons out there. Obviously almost exclusively with the kit lens or very rarely with the 55-250

Lenses / Re: Best short telephoto?
« on: July 06, 2014, 04:26:12 PM »
It really depends how well lit it is. I brought a 40D and 55-250 lens to the London olympic arena. It was so well lit I could shoot 1/400, f5.6 at iso 1600. I did sacrifice a little shutter speed to stop down though as I have the non stm version which isn't terribly sharp at the long end wide open.

With your gear list in your signature I'd expect you to be perfectly fine. The M can easily act as a second body with the 22mm or the 24-70 on it with the 6D using the 135 if the room is big or the 16-35 if it isn't). When it comes your to 6D just crank up the ISO and you'll probably be ok without a flash (obviously depending on the pub in question) but a flash would certainly help a little. I second yongnuo flashes as a cheap alternative. Given that most pubs tend to be rather cosy affairs even the small yn-468 II would most likely have more than enough oomph to make it work. Since you aren't too familiar with flash I'd say when the flash needs to come out use the wider end of your lens spectrum and leave the camera in P mode with the flash head pointing 45 degrees forward.

Don't forget to enjoy the day, drink some bubbly and set the expectations realistically.

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