January 30, 2015, 01:34:16 PM

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Messages - Valvebounce

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1
Landscape / Re: Mountains, Lakes and Rivers
« on: January 29, 2015, 04:26:12 PM »
Hi dpc.
Very nice.

Cheers, Graham.

Colour rendition of a previous posting. Shadows of lodgepole pine extending across the Athabasca River.

2
Animal Kingdom / Re: Photographs taken in my yard
« on: January 29, 2015, 09:38:09 AM »
Hi Larry.
You have some beautiful shots here, are you allowed to feed the birds, or does the illegal to feed wild animals extend to them too? I'm glad you didn't have too much bother from the FWO as it could be difficult to prove non feeding!
I read with interest the post in which you unveiled your camera buggy to us, great idea, I have a rigid toolbox which I bungee to a small collapsable sack truck for car and bike jumbling, been thinking of adapting this for camera gear. Probably will just remain a thought for a while as I don't yet have enough aches and pains to really prevent carrying!  ;D
Again many thanks for sharing these beautiful shots.

Cheers, Graham.

Thanks Graham, As you can see I did remove the tick for him. I'm still learning the ART of photography. I have a run and gun style of photography better suited for street, and photojournalistic photography. Long lens, hit and run style. I have very little skill, and even less desire to learn the set up, and pre production posing style of photography. I like to shoot it as I see it. Thats me and my photo cart I made from my granddaughters stroller. Holds all the essentials, and keeps my gear off the ground and out of the weather when moving about and walking long distances thru the woods.

3
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon 1DX Firmware 2.0.7 is out....
« on: January 29, 2015, 04:11:56 AM »
Hi Neuro.
I feel for you, it took me ages to go through my 7D and write down all the menu, sub menu, custom settings etc and I'm certain there is a lot more customisation on 1Dx. Hopefully you can read them from the computer software to help ease their recreation.

Cheers, Graham

Annoying that I'll need to recreate all my camera settings files after the update.  I have six different sets that I keep on old/small/slow CF cards.

4
Technical Support / Re: Dust on sensor.
« on: January 28, 2015, 08:04:15 PM »
Thank you.


Sorry for the typographical error, Google Translate could not translate. ::) :P

"To disassemble the camera in the authorized service".

5
Technical Support / Re: Dust on sensor.
« on: January 28, 2015, 05:59:44 PM »
Hi ajfotofilmagem.
Thank you for that, I didn't understand this word, desmostar nearest I could get from google was a similar word which translated to dismantle, is this correct? I got the gist of it though, send it in! 

Cheers, Graham.

Hi ajfotofilmagem. 
I didn't get a chance to carefully study the correct area as directed by Neuro, I am going to have a look later as the brain fart has passed! Is there a way to verify mould, just it doesn't shift when cleaned, look back after a while to see how big it's got? ???
If the dirt you see in the pictures is not a human hair, can be fungus that grows below the low pass filter.
You needs to point a lantern to the sensor, at different angles and observe the reflection to see if dirt is on the low pass filter surface or underneath it.

If the dirt is under the filter, should be fungus and need desmostar the camera to be cleaned at the authorized workshop.

6
Technical Support / Re: Dust on sensor.
« on: January 28, 2015, 09:30:34 AM »
Hi ajfotofilmagem. 
I didn't get a chance to carefully study the correct area as directed by Neuro, I am going to have a look later as the brain fart has passed! Is there a way to verify mould, just it doesn't shift when cleaned, look back after a while to see how big it's got? ???

Thanks to all for help and suggestions.

Cheers, Graham. 

If the dirt you see in the pictures is not a human hair, can be fungus that grows below the low pass filter.

7
Software & Accessories / Re: lee system
« on: January 28, 2015, 04:25:51 AM »
Hi scotia.
I only own the soft grads, hence the (IMHO) I was theorising on the hard grads not being so useful for rolling hills with forest, whereas I have limited experience using soft grads for beach sunsets. I'm on the south coast, the Isle of Wight, it used to be called the Garden Isle, now they are calling it the Green Island and steadily turning it black with fields of solar panels!  :'(
I have ready access to the beach, I'm completely surrounded by it! Not so much rolling hills and forest!

Cheers, Graham.

Hi Nancy.
Very valid point, but I would like to say that if you are faced with both situations and only have the budget for one set of grads, the soft grads will (IMHO) work better on water than the hard grads on the rolling hills with forest scenario.

Cheers, Graham.


Hi Graham,

I think this depends a lot on when you are photographing. I spend a lot of time photographing at the coast (it is my back yard) and cannot recall ever using a soft grad;  with low sun soft grads give me very little benefit because the transition is too gradual to help with brightest area, which is often close to the horizon,  particularly at sunrise/sunset (even here in the frozen north of the UK the sun does occasionally penetrate). I occasionally use the soft grad when photographing mountains, but I find I often don't need a grad because the contrast is not as extreme.

8
Technical Support / Re: Dust on sensor.
« on: January 27, 2015, 08:07:04 PM »
Hi Neuro.
Thanks for that, by the time I'd scoured searched the sensor for marks and tried to rethink this several times as I couldn't see anything where I thought it should be I couldn't see straight or think straight. I did forget that turning the camera counts as a horizontal flip, D'oh! I even got out film negatives and tried to work it back but by that time I was already mentally scrambled!
Thanks again.

Cheers, Graham.

HMy question was if I see crud on the top left of the picture am I correct that it is the bottom right of the sensor I need to look at?

Crud at top left in picture is at bottom left on sensor, it's a vertical flip only (well, it's a horizontal flip, too...but you did that already when you turned the camera around to look into it from the front).

9
Canon General / Re: Photographer Petitions Canon for Left Handed Camera
« on: January 27, 2015, 07:53:27 PM »
Hi ecka.
Does the battery grip interface support the rear wheel too, as this is not normally replicated on the grip whereas the other controls are.
While your at it I'd like a battery grip for my 40D BG-E2N (MarkII perhaps) with an AF ON button please, this would help me not get confused when swapping between 40D and 7D.  ;D

Cheers, Graham.

Hi Graham. Everything is possible, at least in my world :). We only need tools to make it happen.

10
Technical Support / Re: Dust on sensor.
« on: January 27, 2015, 07:25:56 PM »
Hi ajfotofilmagem.
Camera is a 20D so no live view, but I found it on some images, checked at f22 on an out of focus plain wall and it is there.

Test in Live View, using F22 aperture. If the hair appears on the camera's LCD, actually it is in the sensor.

Hi Mackguyver.
There is a hair in the lens, looks fairly deep in, possibly on the image stabiliser element, so I tried another without the hair and the L is still on the image! 

Not to ask the stupid question, but have you tried another lens?  Sometimes it's in the lens.  Don't ask how long it took me to figure this out...

Hi Mt Spokane.
My hair in the lens doesn't seem to show up so far, I guess that confirms my observation that it is not on the rear element.

Yes, a hair on the rear of the lens will show up and look awful. 

My question was if I see crud on the top left of the picture am I correct that it is the bottom right of the sensor I need to look at? Bottom line is this only shows at smaller apertures and this camera is mainly used for workshop documentation with flash.

Cheers, Graham.

11
Technical Support / Dust on sensor.
« on: January 27, 2015, 02:55:35 PM »
Hi Folks.
Could someone confirm my understanding or point me in the right direction please.
I have a large L shaped hair or other impediment on the top left of my images, am I correct that would make its actual location bottom right on the sensor face. I have thought until I made myself stupid on this one.  ;D
I have done a wet clean with a visible dust kit, and don't seem to be able to shift whatever it is, so I am looking with a light and magnifying glass but can't see it. Starting to think it may be a scratch, I bought the body used so have no idea of the history.

Cheers, Graham.

12
Hi Ebby.
It makes a nice change to have a new member post a question then be there to read and respond to replies, so often it seems we make the effort to respond and then silence (metaphorically speaking).
Regarding calibration, I'm sure there are people who have had calibration done and get excellent results, I have never done it through Canon, only AFMA with FoCal Pro, but it appears to me from the way Canon do calibrate that there is still scope for AFMA to be required.
There are plenty of threads here on the different methods of AFMA, I will say FoCal needs LOTS of light to obtain good results.

Cheers, Graham.

Hi Ebby.
Welcome to the forum.
Have you done AFMA. I'm not sure that Canon calibration is the answer as I understand they don't match your body and lens rather they match body to a standard lens and the lens to their standard body, this could still leave room for a small discrepancy. Also their adjustment may not be at the shooting range you are at, they set at a pre defined target distance. Try shooting live view, this would be the most accurate focus achievable, if still not sharp, is it possible that your technique is not as good as your boss, stance, bracing etc? I often shoot with a friend, and he has real trouble as he sways slightly even with correct stance and elbows in tight he still has movement, he can't see it but I can when I look at him side on when he shoots, get someone to study you while you shoot.
All this can be eliminated with a tripod for test shots if you were not already using one.
Let's get to the bottom of this so you can prove your chosen brand can be as good as that of your boss.

Cheers, Graham.



Hey Graham, thank you for the reply, I have not do the AFMA yet cause i thought after we do body & lens calibration we do not need to do AFMA, maybe I am wrong. I will get someone to study my shoot position. Before this I try doing test shoot with the tripod but the picture still blur when zoom 100% in Bridge. I think AFMA is the answer!

13
Software & Accessories / Re: lee system
« on: January 27, 2015, 05:37:19 AM »
Hi Nancy.
Very valid point, but I would like to say that if you are faced with both situations and only have the budget for one set of grads, the soft grads will (IMHO) work better on water than the hard grads on the rolling hills with forest scenario.

Cheers, Graham.

Re: Soft vs. Hard grads - It depends on your scenery. Water: abrupt flat transition from sky to earth = hard grad.
Rolling hills with forest: irregular transition from sky to earth = soft grad. I have the second case, here in the middle of the continent.

14
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Says it all
« on: January 27, 2015, 05:26:50 AM »
Hi.
That reminds me I need to clean the big dob of crud off my 20D sensor. I don't like to change lenses unnecessarily, but don't let it prevent me when another lens will be better. I'm trying to enlighten my friend, he takes his lens off and fits a body cap when he puts his camera away!

Cheers, Graham.

You like to see at least one shot of the mirror?????????
Ever seen a DSLR without a mirror???

Ever taken a shot with f22 having blue sky in the frame?
Says it all.....

My opinion: Anybody who is serious about photography would never leave the cam open.
Only if you take pictures like Ken Rockwell you can leave your cam open all year.

15
Hi Ebby.
Welcome to the forum.
Have you done AFMA. I'm not sure that Canon calibration is the answer as I understand they don't match your body and lens rather they match body to a standard lens and the lens to their standard body, this could still leave room for a small discrepancy. Also their adjustment may not be at the shooting range you are at, they set at a pre defined target distance. Try shooting live view, this would be the most accurate focus achievable, if still not sharp, is it possible that your technique is not as good as your boss, stance, bracing etc? I often shoot with a friend, and he has real trouble as he sways slightly even with correct stance and elbows in tight he still has movement, he can't see it but I can when I look at him side on when he shoots, get someone to study you while you shoot.
All this can be eliminated with a tripod for test shots if you were not already using one.
Let's get to the bottom of this so you can prove your chosen brand can be as good as that of your boss.

Cheers, Graham.


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