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Messages - se7en

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1
Lenses / Sigma ART Series: 70-200mm f2.8 possible?
« on: March 09, 2014, 04:25:34 PM »
For the sake of discussion, and pure speculation. I have frequently wondered if Sigma will be or is developing a 70-200mm f2.8 to compete with Canon's beloved L. I opted for the Sigma 35mm 1.4 A when it was just released over the Canon 35L and have been very impressed. I will likely buy the 50mm.

So, what do you think?

2
Lenses / Re: Sigma 35mm 1.4 lens chicken...
« on: July 25, 2013, 10:21:47 PM »
I had to do an AFMA of +8 with my 5d MkIII. Not a big deal, and truly only off by a little bit. The advantages of this lens far outweigh the minor inconvenience of dialing it in. It is my go-to prime lens.

3
Animal Kingdom / Re: MY dog
« on: April 26, 2013, 12:40:07 AM »
Drake

4
EOS Bodies / Re: Red AF in AI-Servo fixed in 1D-X before 5D Mk III
« on: October 18, 2012, 03:35:46 AM »
Why do you think this was addressed earlier than the 5d mark III, despite the 5d being released "long" before the 1dx?

The simple answer would be: The 1dx costs more. "Professionals" demand it. etc.

But I don't think there are too many amateurs running around out there with $3000 bodies.

I was relatively unconcerned with the large amount of discontent with the 5d mark iii preformance, personally feeling that the camera fit its role.

I am, however; utterly pissed that Canon chose to overlook the fact that there are thousands of 5d mk3 users out there that have demanded, more or less, that the AF in AI Servo be changed through a simple firmware update, and instead, offer it to the 1dx that has been out for a fraction of the time.

I love Canon, but this really irks me, maybe unjustifiably, but irks me none the less, and where better to rant than cr?

Grrrrr.

I'm sure canon will get around to the 5d3 eventually. Hopefully.

Or not. Force us to upgrade to the 1dx. Make more money. You know, canon's usual. Or should I say, a sane company's usual.

All the while Nikon has a full body sensor, with greater DR, MP and arguably equal high-ISO performance, for less than the 5d Mark III? If they are truly that pompous, I don't see myself sticking with Canon for the long haul. I do, truly value good technology, and will pay top dollar for it. I won't pay top dollar for sub-performing, support lacking "technology" though. We are not, after all, talking about turning the 5d Mark III into the hubble F______ telescope, simply changing the AF focus point color. Something that should have been dealt with by Canon months ago.

Instead, we are sitting here reading this grandiose announcement about the "improvement" to a $7,000 camera that should have been default, had Canon done any decent amount of testing with decent photographers. An "improvement" that should have been a no-brainer for all of their DSLRs, not just their top of the line SLR. I repeat, pompous. Pompous crooks.

This is a slap in the face of consumers, and only makes the D800 that much more appealing.

5
EOS Bodies / Red AF in AI-Servo fixed in 1D-X before 5D Mk III
« on: October 18, 2012, 03:12:43 AM »
Why do you think this was addressed earlier than the 5d mark III, despite the 5d being released "long" before the 1dx?

The simple answer would be: The 1dx costs more. "Professionals" demand it. etc.

But I don't think there are too many amateurs running around out there with $3000 bodies.

I was relatively unconcerned with the large amount of discontent with the 5d mark iii preformance, personally feeling that the camera fit its role.

I am, however; utterly pissed that Canon chose to overlook the fact that there are thousands of 5d mk3 users out there that have demanded, more or less, that the AF in AI Servo be changed through a simple firmware update, and instead, offer it to the 1dx that has been out for a fraction of the time.

I love Canon, but this really irks me, maybe unjustifiably, but irks me none the less, and where better to rant than cr?

Grrrrr.

6
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Hardware or Firmware limitation?
« on: May 13, 2012, 03:24:58 AM »
What?

8
As with any landscape shots, and the potential of awesome sunset shots. I would look into bringing a Graduated ND filter...With the so-cal sky, a 3-stop is my most used filter(.9) and depending on foreground probably a soft transition is best unless you're going for a vast composition, then hard would be appropriate...

If you're looking for a less shot viewpoint, but one with a little bit of a hike, I know of a couple of options. The "top" of Ryan mountain shooting west would be a great shot. Also, there is an oasis from Indian campground that takes approx. 45 minutes and has water year around.

Have fun! Post the results :)

9
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Newbie Time lapse
« on: April 12, 2012, 09:42:10 AM »
I haven't done any real bulb ramping myself so i'm not much of a resource, but what camera are you using?

And what kind of transition are you looking for? A sunrise with an acceptable range of exposure or are you trying to capture a timelapse that is several hours long and includes astrophotography/nightshots transitioned into full daytime shots?

Thank you AGAIN, Se7en.

I am doing some research on Bulb Ramping in ML. Let me try it and post a video here.

There are so many things to learn in just one particular type on photography!

Edit: I've tried with ML Bulb Ramping but failed. :'(

The picture will always be over expose (ie white image).

Not sure what I am doing wrong but here's what i tried.

1) Take a picture that i think it's right (ie aperture, shutter speed, manual focus and WB)
2) Turn on the Intervalometer and Bulb ramping
3) ML does calibration (the S curve)
4) It lets me choose the tone range from the picture i took (here's the problem)
- I tried 50th percentile and the camera will start taking pictures but it will be over expose (white image)
- I tried other percentile and it will still take over expose photos
- It would take 3-4 pictures before it returns to normal/acceptable pictures

10
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Newbie Time lapse
« on: April 11, 2012, 11:20:23 PM »
Thank you for the tips Se7en. It definitely sounds a lot harder than i thought!

Do you think it's alright to change the setting during the photos? Let's say it's getting darker, can i put the ISO higher, slower shutter speed, and change the WB?

I am thinking it may work IF i change the setting gradually.


Axilrod: I am quite comfortable with using time lapse in Magic Lantern now though I've only tried it twice. lol

Can someone please explain what's magic lantern's bulb ramping?

Sounds great in theory, however not in reality. If that were the case you could put your camera on auto mode and let it ride. A 1 stop difference between shutter settings is not very gradual and has a much greater effect than you imagine. Especially when you replay 600 stills back at 30fps.

ISO stops are less dramatic but for each time you change the ISO, you will be doubling your work in post to create a smooth transition. Without the extra time in post, you will have a brightnening(or darknening) 'jolt' for each time you changed the ISO.

Bulb ramping is the 'easiest' answer to the holy grail(sunset/sunrise shots in TL). It uses the bulb mode on your camera, which is exclusive to canons, which im assuming you have by your presence here. It will increase or decrease the amount of time your sensor is exposed to the 100ths of a second at a time to allow for a very much needed gradual adjustment in exposure for a smooth playback.

Like someone else suggested, I would work on dialing in your daytime timelapses with consistent lighting before attempting a sunrise/sunset. You will either 1) Just get frustrated or 2) Induce epilepsy on yourself or another due to flicker.

Check out:
http://forum.timescapes.org/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=40&sid=f6aaad197909b9f1895311c88538854f
and
Timelapse FAQ
http://forum.timescapes.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=1871

11
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Newbie Time lapse
« on: April 11, 2012, 01:07:54 PM »
If you shoot in anything other than manual mode(NO auto ISO) you will get bad flicker. Sunset and sunrise timelapse are extremely difficult and typically require advanced techniques such as bulb ramping.

Your best bet while starting out will be something like this for sunrise:
ISO 100
Exp 100
Aperture f11, check hyper focal distanc
No AWB!!
Manual focus only.
You will still get aperture flicker in all manual and if you shoot faster than ss 100 you will get shutter flicker!
To remove aperture flicker you must disengage the electrical connections between the lens and the body. To do this:
Set aperture...
Press and hold DOF button.
Press lens release button while turning lens counterclockwise 1/8 of an inch.
Check iris to insure aperture is stopped down.
If you turned too much, you will get an error, if you didn't turn enough, you will get an error.

This will keep your aperture at the exact same stop for the entire length of the tl eliminating aperture flicker that occurs due to micro differences in diameter with every actuation.

Let the timelapse roll and edit in post with lr timelapse to recover shadows before sunrise..

You could also set initial ISo to 200, then change halfway to 100, realizing you will need to do more in depth deflicker in post.

Also, remember, with the lens disengaged your light meter is no longer accurate so disregard.

Lastly, timescapes.org forum is a much better resource than here.

12
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 5D Mark III Light Leak?
« on: April 08, 2012, 04:29:21 AM »
This could potentially cause a real problem for those who routinely take photos with their lens cap on. Lets not take this lightly(No pun intended.)

13
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D MKIII Auto Focus Question
« on: April 01, 2012, 05:07:58 PM »
so the focus is incorrect even thou it successfully focused.

uhhhhh? cannot compute this sentence.

14
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 5d3 settings
« on: April 01, 2012, 05:06:21 PM »
The manual suprisingly has a lot of useful information...

15
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Cancelled my D800 pre-order... !!!
« on: March 31, 2012, 11:16:22 AM »
OPs post defines 'irrelevancy' to a T.

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