October 22, 2014, 04:39:57 AM

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Messages - IMG_0001

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1
Software & Accessories / Re: Hello Windows 10
« on: October 18, 2014, 08:00:55 PM »
One last question in regard to windows going to be subscription based. Am I right by saying that Mac OS is already a bit like that. Although buying the computer provides you with a lifetime subscription...

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Software & Accessories / Re: Hello Windows 10
« on: October 18, 2014, 07:57:06 PM »
My new machine is windows 8.1 laptop with touchscreen. I don't use the touch function much, but Win8 sure is an upgrade once you get used to do it. However, i've tried it on an asus transformer tablet and found that it really did not scale well to the tablet format. Version 10 sure has something to improve in that regard.

3
Software & Accessories / Re: Hello Windows 10
« on: October 18, 2014, 02:09:14 PM »
For the last few Years up until this spring, I've been usign Linux quite a bit for my work and play. I'll be back to a dual boot machine soon but I've just not had the time to set things up since I had to replace my computer. I'm a big fan of open source and absolutely hate the implications of the cloud based solutions for storage and software licensing. The cloud is conceptually interesting, but philosophically has so many pitfalls. But I'm drifting off topic here.

Now, back to our business, although I tried ufraw, rawtherapy and darktable and initially liked them, I still find LR too lead the pack by a fair margin. So I do most of my editing under windows. However, if both windows and the editing software go the cloud way, be assured that I will stay firmly rooted to the ground and happily back to Linux.

By the way, just before my former computer crashed, I was about to try digikam and showfoto on linux. I did not get to try it much but it appeared to be pretty feature rich. I had particularly been impressed with the distortion correction tool. Anybody tried it for real and has any comments to give?

Thanks

4
When I started out with photography, I did try the tone mapping technique, only to never look at the images again. Well, not until now...

Those were shot during my stay in the Netherlands, no needs for critics and comments.

Now, I feel like regular processing of images is already difficult so I better leave HDR tone mapping out of the equation. At worse, I might try to combine exposures, both no more HDR.

5
The announcement says it has a panning mode for the  stabilizer. That alone seems like a big plus over the Tamron.

I never, ever, use panning mode on my 70-200/2.8.  And I shoot thousands and thousands of panning shots.  Mode 1 just works better for obvious reasons - it stabilizes in both directions instead of just one.

Well, I guess the mode 1 of the 70-200 2.8 is smarter than the one one my lenses and that you are much better at panning than I am (well, that won't be so hard)... To me mode 2 is certainly a nice to have.

6
The announcement says it has a panning mode for the  stabilizer. That alone seems like a big plus over the Tamron. If Iq is good and af turns out to be reliable, it could turn out to be more interesting despite it size/weight and price disadvantage. Furthermore, is the Tamron sealed or does the Sigma strikes another point there?

7
Post Processing / Re: Too much chroma?
« on: September 04, 2014, 02:22:22 PM »
Definitely seems over processed to me, sorry.

I must also agree with the previous comments, particularly the foreground being too light. The lions are so light that they look like they've been added in post from another image. The light comes from the background so my brain tells me they should almost be silhouetted and they are the brightest thing after the sun. The fact that the tree just beside them is darker (as it should be) only emphasize the problem and makes the lions look artificial. To my eyes, the chroma is much less of an issue than the inconsistency in the brightness.

On the other hand, I must agree with the image having potential.

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Software & Accessories / Re: Optimizing your monitor for print production...
« on: September 01, 2014, 01:27:06 PM »
I use a Datacolor Spyder 4 Elite for my screen color calibration. I am pretty happy with it and it is at lest 75$ less than the I-Rite. I know some pros find it does not provide as repeatable measurements as the I-Rite from Pentone, but to me it has done a wonderfull job. Just make sure you get the Pro or Elite as the software is much better.

Best of luck.

9
Australia / Re: Legal question on photography
« on: August 18, 2014, 09:38:05 PM »
Not in Australia, not a lawyer but I think you'd be bound to the terms. And about Facebook and such, the thing is that by posting images there, you cede all your rights on the image to the site hosting it and you don't own these in the first place. I think you could then be held responsible if the host decided they like the image enough and use it for advertisement or other commercial purpoise.


10
Lighting / Re: Godox V860C battery not fully charging?
« on: August 15, 2014, 02:50:35 PM »
Hello,

I can't comment on the numbers of flashes for this model, but the point I'll bring might be of interest to you. Lithium batteries usually ship with about 50% charge. Some devices have meters that calibrate themselves on the power the battery has when inserted or while charging within the device. A long initial charge ensures that the meter is calibrated to the battery's max capacity and avoids mistakenly reading the battery as dead. Furthermore, if the device has a multi-cell battery, a long initial charge ensures that none of the cells get damaged by a too low discharge.
 
On a high drain device like a flash, I believe that it is good for battery life that this initial charge cycle is respected. The manual of the flash most likely has recommendations on charging before first use. Did you read and respect those instructions?

11
Canon General / Re: A Rundown of EOS 7D Mark II Information
« on: August 15, 2014, 02:30:39 PM »
I'll be waiting on this one, not because of specs, but because my finances dictate that I won't be replacing my 7D until early 2016. I should be up to 110K exposures by then, which seems like a good point to make it may backup body. Who knows, maybe by that time Canon will have come out with a 50MP camera with a built in coffeemaker and a unicorn for $500.  ;D
In any event, it looks like I will have to have plenty of napkins on hand to wipe away the drool for the next 18 months.

Built in coffeemaker AND a unicorn!  Bet it also makes rainbow flavoured popcorn!  Sign me up! LOL ::)

If it comes with a unicorn OR rainbow flavored popcorn, I would be ready to pay up to 3500$. Otherwise, I'll stick to my 60D.

12
Lighting / Re: HSS with Einsteins win!
« on: August 14, 2014, 04:58:51 PM »
Isn't that working just because the whole process of taking the picture occurs within the 1/540 s of the full power flash duration? If so, it is not really high speed sync isn't it?

Correct, but it does equate to faster sync, it isn't HSS, it is what Pocket Wizard call HyperSync, the trick is to get the flash to fire before the second curtain starts its travel, that is what causes the shadow, the second curtain, so if you can adjust your triggering time to sync not when the first curtain is fully open, as in normal sync, but before that, just before the second curtain starts to close and your flash duration will last the entire exposure at an evenish value then you get faster sync.

But what it should more accurately be called is second curtain sync above true sync speed, but SCSATSS is nowhere near as cool as HSS or HyperSync!

Thanks, it right that SCSATSS does not sound right. I guess its better to have this than nothing, but I just thought that having absolutely no control over the light source, as opposed to true HSS, was quite a bit of a sacrifice.

Edit: How about Hyper Speed Second Curtain Sync (HSSCS) though?

13
Lighting / Re: HSS with Einsteins win!
« on: August 14, 2014, 04:55:48 PM »
Isn't that working just because the whole process of taking the picture occurs within the 1/540 s of the full power flash duration? If so, it is not really high speed sync isn't it?

The resulting flash power must also be quite low as a 1/8000 s the exposure would only capture about 7% of the flash duration. Also, how constant is the flash exposure? As a flash output is far from linear, my feeling is that a small change in timing might result in quite a change in exposure.

I'm only starting of with flash photography and that's only me thinking out loud here. I was just wondering...
Longer flash duration during shutter travel is exactly what HSS is.  There is not other way to do it since there is no point in time during which the entire shutter is exposed.

No it isn't, HSS is many high speed pulses timed such that the entire shutter slot gets even illumination; not one long flash buts lots of very short flashes. These tiny fast short flashes effectively emulate one longer one, but at the cost of much power.

As most of the light emitted during a flash is at the beginning of the burst of light and the IGBT just interrupt the flash at the desired duration, many short pulse result in a 'somewhat constant' light source as opposed to the long but quite 'uneven' lighting of a single long duration flash. Therefore, having multiple very short and likely less intense flashes during the exposure seems more efficient and must result in a more repeatable/consistent lighting than one long flash. The energy cost is from keeping the output almost constant for the duration of the illumination, at least that is my understanding.

14
Lighting / Re: speedlite 270ex - broken?
« on: August 14, 2014, 04:41:47 PM »
Have you tried putting a much longer shutter speed on to see if it is just a sync issue

This may also be worth a try, just for the sake of it.

15
Lighting / Re: speedlite 270ex - broken?
« on: August 14, 2014, 04:41:01 PM »
Ok thank you all. I think my flash is definitely dead.
I did some other tests.
I did all the settings Dekaner told.
I have no wireless settings (flash is not compatible). reset settings, ttl, first curtain, etc..

Here are my new tests:
1) pmode. No flash, then Flash.
2) manual settings, underexposed photo. Then flash with manual power adjusted to 1/1. And flash exposure compensation +3.  I saw a very little strobe. and the photos comes completely dark, like the one without flash. The only difference is the white balance (warmer with flash activated).

...

Things do not look good for your little flash... Three more questions:

1 - Does the ready light comes on between flashes?
2 - Do you hear a whine after the flash fires?
3 - Does the test button fire a strong pop or nothing?

If you do get a pop, but it is not powerful, my guess is that it might be a failing capacitor. If you have some practical electronic know-how (AND EXTREMELY CAREFUL), you might want to try and repair it yourself. Just be aware that there might be some serious juice in there even if the flash does not fire. If the test button fires a strong flash, it might be in the triggering circuit and that might be harder to solve by yourself.

If you are interested in how your flash works, I've found this web page to be very interesting.

http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/strbfaq.htm#strbioi

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