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Lenses / Re: Workaround for Loose Lens Cap on 8-15mm Fisheye
« on: January 14, 2013, 04:13:09 PM »Indeed, I do reside in Norway (Kongsberg to be exact).
May 20, 2013, 12:20:09 AM
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Indeed, I do reside in Norway (Kongsberg to be exact).
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Lenses / Re: Workaround for Loose Lens Cap on 8-15mm Fisheye
« on: January 13, 2013, 10:19:19 AM »
The problem with the cap is that the it uses two latches on the cap to fix it to the hood (using inside ridges at the end of of the long hood petals). These latches does not have enough force to keep the cap in place, indeed it is possible to drop the cap merely by shaking the lens/hood/cap (if it's in the "wrong" position). So how to increase the force provided by the latches?
This is relatively easy, the cap latch mechanism is a single plastic construction that can be removed (this relates NOT to the hood with its single release button). This is done by pushing one of the latch buttons all the way in, towards the centre of the cap, and then gently pressing it down into the cap, it should release/pop out of the inside grooves.
Repeat for the opposite latch. The entire latch ring can now be removed. It has the shape of a slightly flattened circle with the latches at opposite ends. At the inside of the push buttons one can see the latch ridges that interlocks with the hood.
To increase the holding force, the latch ridges should be made to be further apart. This can be done by placing an object inside the ring that increases the distance between the latches by approx 3-5mm (the ring will now look more circular).
Now for the scary part, use an adjustable heat gun with a narrow nozzle (10mm diameter) to reshape the plastic. The temperature of the air hitting the ring surface should not exceed 120 C, too hot and the plastic will melt (forcing you to buy a new cap). Note that there should not be any signs of the plastic ring melting during the procedure and certainly NO smoke!
Carefully fan the centre 90 degrees of the exposed ring at opposite sides for approx 30-45 sec each (NOT the area of the latches, just the this part of the ring). Then leave the ring for a couple of minutes before removing the tensioning object in the middle. The procedure will "realign" the plastic shape, and should maintain its new shape.
You can now test the gripping force by inserting the ring into the hood (best to disconnect the hood from the lens first), if the grip is sufficient the ring can be re-inserted into the cap. If not satisfied the procedure can be repeated with a slightly higher temperature or increased distance between the latches. Don't use excessive force when testing.
The cap should now have a much better grip. I can now lift the lens by the cap, previously the opposite was often not possible!
Note that the above procedure is done at our own risk.
This is relatively easy, the cap latch mechanism is a single plastic construction that can be removed (this relates NOT to the hood with its single release button). This is done by pushing one of the latch buttons all the way in, towards the centre of the cap, and then gently pressing it down into the cap, it should release/pop out of the inside grooves.
Repeat for the opposite latch. The entire latch ring can now be removed. It has the shape of a slightly flattened circle with the latches at opposite ends. At the inside of the push buttons one can see the latch ridges that interlocks with the hood.
To increase the holding force, the latch ridges should be made to be further apart. This can be done by placing an object inside the ring that increases the distance between the latches by approx 3-5mm (the ring will now look more circular).
Now for the scary part, use an adjustable heat gun with a narrow nozzle (10mm diameter) to reshape the plastic. The temperature of the air hitting the ring surface should not exceed 120 C, too hot and the plastic will melt (forcing you to buy a new cap). Note that there should not be any signs of the plastic ring melting during the procedure and certainly NO smoke!
Carefully fan the centre 90 degrees of the exposed ring at opposite sides for approx 30-45 sec each (NOT the area of the latches, just the this part of the ring). Then leave the ring for a couple of minutes before removing the tensioning object in the middle. The procedure will "realign" the plastic shape, and should maintain its new shape.
You can now test the gripping force by inserting the ring into the hood (best to disconnect the hood from the lens first), if the grip is sufficient the ring can be re-inserted into the cap. If not satisfied the procedure can be repeated with a slightly higher temperature or increased distance between the latches. Don't use excessive force when testing.
The cap should now have a much better grip. I can now lift the lens by the cap, previously the opposite was often not possible!
Note that the above procedure is done at our own risk.
3
Lenses / Re: Ipad app by Canon
« on: January 02, 2013, 06:03:25 PM »
Not to despair, go to Play and search for the same (CanonSGLens) which has the same features as the iOS version. Its up to version 2.4.1.
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Lenses / Re: What lenses do you own?
« on: August 19, 2012, 04:24:25 PM »
Sigma:
15mm 2.8 Fisheye - Fun lens, but has to be used sparingly and with care, good quality images
Canon:
50mm 1.4 - fast lens, unfortunately rarely used except in low light, build is so-so.
16-35mm 2.8 I L - used mostly for architecture and landscape, a bit soft in the corners but provides good images, constant companion when traveling
TS-E 24mm 3.5 II L - very sharp, excellent at architecture
24-105mm 4.0 IS L - good all-round lens, reasonably sharp, constant companion when traveling
MP-E 65mm 2.8 - dedicated macro, sharp but difficult to use, must have adequate lighting, e.g. MT-24EX
70-200mm 4.0 L - sharp, but now rarely used as it for my part is superseded by the 70-300 (should sell it)
70-200mm 2.8 IS L I - sharp, very good lens, excellent images
70-300mm 4.0-5.6 IS L - although not that fast it is very sharp, constant companion when traveling
100 Macro 2.8 IS L - very sharp, very good lens, excellent images
100-400m 4.5-5.6 IS L - although a bit slow it is quite sharp, pump action not as bad as many are wont to say also in my experience not a dust pump
135mm 2 L - very sharp and excellent images
300mm 2.8 IS L - very sharp and excellent images although a bit heavy
TC1.4x II, TC2.0x II
5D3, 5D, 3 (Film)
Been on it since 1986.
15mm 2.8 Fisheye - Fun lens, but has to be used sparingly and with care, good quality images
Canon:
50mm 1.4 - fast lens, unfortunately rarely used except in low light, build is so-so.
16-35mm 2.8 I L - used mostly for architecture and landscape, a bit soft in the corners but provides good images, constant companion when traveling
TS-E 24mm 3.5 II L - very sharp, excellent at architecture
24-105mm 4.0 IS L - good all-round lens, reasonably sharp, constant companion when traveling
MP-E 65mm 2.8 - dedicated macro, sharp but difficult to use, must have adequate lighting, e.g. MT-24EX
70-200mm 4.0 L - sharp, but now rarely used as it for my part is superseded by the 70-300 (should sell it)
70-200mm 2.8 IS L I - sharp, very good lens, excellent images
70-300mm 4.0-5.6 IS L - although not that fast it is very sharp, constant companion when traveling
100 Macro 2.8 IS L - very sharp, very good lens, excellent images
100-400m 4.5-5.6 IS L - although a bit slow it is quite sharp, pump action not as bad as many are wont to say also in my experience not a dust pump
135mm 2 L - very sharp and excellent images
300mm 2.8 IS L - very sharp and excellent images although a bit heavy
TC1.4x II, TC2.0x II
5D3, 5D, 3 (Film)
Been on it since 1986.
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Lenses / Re: ND Filter system for landscape photography question
« on: June 17, 2012, 05:06:15 PM »
Have a look at the Hitech 100x150mm graduated filter range (they have both hard and soft). Would recommend a set of 0.3, 0.6 and 0.9 (hard or soft) filters. They also have a low profile holder for wide angles, but this has less stacking possibilities than the normal one. They are a bit less expensive than Lee, but more expensive than Cokin (which may not have a complete neutral effect, causing a bit of colour cast in some situations).
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EOS Bodies / Re: Cost of 5DMk3 internationally
« on: May 03, 2012, 11:45:27 AM »
In Norway the cost is (shop FotoVideo):
5D3+24-105 kit = NOK 35895 / USD 6448 (with VAT) and NOK 28716 / USD 5158 (without VAT)
5D3 body only = NOK 27985/ USD 5027 (with VAT) and NOK 22388 / USD 4021 (without VAT)
I will call this rather expensive, however due to legislation we have a 5 year "warranty" which reduces the pain somewhat ...
5D3+24-105 kit = NOK 35895 / USD 6448 (with VAT) and NOK 28716 / USD 5158 (without VAT)
5D3 body only = NOK 27985/ USD 5027 (with VAT) and NOK 22388 / USD 4021 (without VAT)
I will call this rather expensive, however due to legislation we have a 5 year "warranty" which reduces the pain somewhat ...
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