July 25, 2014, 06:43:02 AM

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Messages - viggen61

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1
Put me down as a fan of Unique Photo in Fairfield, NJ. Good store, good folks. Bought my 7D there. Best of all, as an NJ resident, no tolls parking or transit expense!

Abe's of "maine" is now (was?) a small place in a warehouse district in Edison NJ. I did not get the warm and fuzzies there. They did, though, let me play with about $6,000 of camera gear unattended. Not worth it, though. Cameras are a tiny part of their business.


2
Fat-32 can be used too, almost any computer will read and write it.

True. However, recent implementations of Apple's Disk Utility won't give you that option, at least for some disk types. I know it won't give you that option for large USB thumb drives...

3
Good day everyone,
The problem is so stupid that I decided to create an account here to ask

I use a Transcend HDD because my MBP retina 15 has only 256 mb inside it — not quite enough to store important RAW files.
I converted it to ExFAT format, don't remember why but there are some serious profits.

The problem is when I connect my HDD to windows running computer, the system asks to check the HDD to prevent some errors, when I do that it actually erases half of my RAW files and only then allows to use it. (one can't overcome the checking, windows won't let you move something to your HDD)

I found some solutions, eg Stellar Phoenix Photo Recovery — brilliant thing, but I'm kind of tired of doing the same thing everytime, because it take 5 hours(at least) to restore 750GB HDD.

What's wrong with the HDD? Why windows sees RAW files as damaged ones?

ExFAT is not supported directly in some versions of Windows. Your Windows friends might need to install an updater from Microsoft. I know that Windows XP requires an update to support exFAT, but Windows 7 (and presumably later versions) do not.

Macs can read from, but not write to NTFS (last I heard).

Why do you need to connect to a Windows machine? If we know why, we may be able to recommend a safer course of action. One suggestion, if you're only sharing a few files, would be to burn to a DVD or CD which have universal file formats.

4
retina, retina, retina!
and a 4k 24" external monitor like the UP2414Q

+1

My mpbr has 99% srgb coverage.

+2!

5
Canon General / Re: DOF and Sensor Size
« on: July 01, 2014, 03:18:22 PM »
This can be so confusing, but it really should not be.

For a given lens, subject and distance to that subject, the DoF is exactly the same whether your EF lens is mounted on a full frame camera, APS-H camera or APS-C camera. But because of the narrower angle of view of the APS sensor sizes (aka "crop factor"), you do not see the same framing in each camera. So with a full face portrait, the APS-H might cut off the ears, and the APS-C much more than that.

Where the DoF changes is when you want to achieve exactly the same framing between disparate sensor sizes. Since the APS-size sensor image looks like a "zoomed in" version of a full frame image (due to the narrower angle of view), to achieve the same image in both sensors corner to corner, you need to either back away from your subject with your APS camera (increasing the distance to the subject), or zoom out, shortening the focal length of your lens. Either one of these variables then changes the DoF result in the image and mathematically when changed in the formula.

But, as with most comparisons between full frame and crop, unless you carry both with you, and need to make a decision on which to use in a given situation, there's little reason for most of us to worry over it on a daily basis.

6
Have you handled a larger great white?  I'd suggest that you do and decide if you want a hand holdable or not.

The 400 is ii us m and 600 ii is usm  are for me marginally hand hold able (and thus less good for difficult birds in flight).  I have no experience with the 200-400.

The 300is ii usm and to a lesser degree the 500 ii usm are hand holdable and the 300 for sure takes extenders really well.  The MTF would indicate that the 500 does so very well as well.

So Id go for the 300 or the 500 unless you are in very good shape in which case any of the great white sharks would work for you.  If I were to buy a 500 I'd consider camera canada as they have a deal on the 500....

Different strokes for different folks!

I know a photographer that almost exclusively handholds a 1D4 with an 800 f/5.6, but others who think a 100-400 like mine is "too much lens to carry"...

Personally, I'd likely opt for the 500 as well. I rented a 500II last year, and it was spectacular! Adding my 1.4xIII helped in the reach department as well, and hardly affected the images my 7D captured.

7
I for one am disgusted that the new camera does not include an integrated popcorn maker and cheese grater.
(just trying to beat the rush)  :o ;D ;)
That's it! Nikon for me!  ::)

8
Anyone know how NDAs generally work?

Do they usually expire or get lifted before the product is announced, or do companies purposely set the NDA expiration date after their projected announcement date and then lift it once the announcement is made?

I'm guessing the latter. It doesn't seem like they would lift an NDA until they release or announce the product.

So, if the NDAs expire in September, that would be the latest date for a release announcement?

You pretty much want the NDA/Embargo to be lifted coincidentally with if not slightly before the actual announcement. Example: Canon wants to announce something on date X. The NDA/embargo would be lifted at the very latest just before the announcement, but likely a day or more before.

The reason for this is if you want the biggest impact for your announcement, you want everyone who was under the NDA/Embargo - photographers, columnists, reviewers, etc. - to be crowing about your product at the same time as your announcement.

9
I'm sure that Canon are at least as smart as carmakers in disguising their new products.

In addition to all manner of cheap-looking camouflage, or putting last year's body on this year's mechanicals, carmakers have occasionally used the ploy of badging a car as something it isn't. Back in the 1960s, when Saab was testing their then-new 99 model, they badged one as a "Daihatsu", and tested in plain sight. So it would be really easy to slap on a regular 7D badge, or something else, and only upon close examination would someone be able to tell it wasn't what it said it was.

Let's not forget also, that though the 200-400 1.4x was tested in the open at the 2012 Olympics, it had already been announced and shown, and a black camera body is a lot easier to disguise than a great white lens!

10
Software & Accessories / Re: 1-Hour Photo iPhone App - Why?
« on: June 20, 2014, 02:40:57 PM »
It's missing a minute and a half or so wait after the 36th exposure, no matter if the 35th was taken weeks ago.

---
That gets me thinking how wrong the app really is. The wait shouldn't just be an hour, it should be an hour after the 36th before you can review any of those 36 images PLUS a minute and a half delay after the 36th before you can start shooting again on the next 'roll'.

More (gotta stop thinking about this, it's getting ridiculous), it needs a thumb swipe from left to right on the screen between shots, twirl a virtual crank clockwise on the left of the screen to rewind after 36, another left thumb swipe to engage the leader. Forget to engage the leader and you can still cock and release the shutter, wait an hour after 36 to find nothing.
 
Premium version of the app can only shoot 24 exposures, results are negatives that cannot be reversed until uploaded to a PC or maybe an on-line cloud service for another fee.

---
Film loading and film advancing/shutter cocking are things I miss about film, but I don't miss having to do them.

Actually, it should be 3 days to a week before you can review them, and it should charge you $11.99 for "Processing"...

Or, we could have the DIY version, where you get random "problems" as if the film wasn't wound on the developing reel properly, development time was wrong, you fixed before developing...

11
EOS Bodies / Re: A Few EOS 7D Mark II Specs [CR1]
« on: June 12, 2014, 09:09:59 AM »
If this is in a 1D body with built in battery grip, I can see a lot of enthusiasts disappointed. When the 80D or 90D comes out, they'll say that is what the 7D2 should have been.

That may be, but for me, I'd welcome the built-in grip on a 7DII. My hands, while not bigger than many, are bigger than most, and I'm just not comfortable without a grip on the camera. My 7D hasn't gone out without the grip since I bought the grip.

Sure, an add-on grip is good, and better than nothing, but in my experience, the BG-E7 is not nearly as water-resistant as the 7D body is (assuming it is water-resistant at all, which I doubt), and it leaves the body open to water intrusion through the battery compartment, since the grip does not seal that. I got caught in a very slight mist, and the grip basically stopped working, and even since drying out, the grip's shutter button is about a 50-50 chance of it working when I need it. All other grip functions, and the camera body, and the 100-400 are fine, though.

12
Photography Technique / Re: Missed opportunity
« on: April 09, 2014, 01:05:49 PM »
Hi all
So my wife and I were walking in the park and she spots this hummingbird and points it to me. I have never seen one before, and got quite excited and worked up. The results were quite dismal (the best effort is below), so I am not even going to ask what I did wrong. But let's say this situation arises again, what should I do to ensure at least optimal results. I had a 135mm L attached to my 5dIII, ISO 160 (was set on Auto), f/8, 1/125 (was set on Av, forgot to change it in the haste). Thanks in advance.
Welcome to the world of Birds In Flight photography!

From what I can see, you got a pretty good shot there. The only thing I might say is a little cropping might be in order (unless you've already done that to excess...) to make the Hummingbird more prominent.

Hummingbirds take patience to photograph, and even so, they move very quickly and seem to never be in the right place. I often photograph them at a local refuge, and I'll set up my tripod with a 100-400 lens (set at 400, usually) only 8-12 feet from the flowers they are attracted to. This is to nearly fill the frame with the tiny bird. And for every keeper, I'll have a dozen or several dozen where I got bird butt, half a bird, no bird, blurry bird, etc.

If you can crop it a bit, do that and frame it. It's a nice photograph!

13
I don't know for sure about the 5D3 & its grip, but my 7D and BG-E7 are NOT a sealed combo together.

First, you can see light through the seam at the bottom of the camera and grip.

Second, I had it out in the lightest of rainshowers (no, really!), and I started getting all sorts of problems with the camera and grip. It led me to replace the coin cell (likely needed anyway, but not the root cause), swap batteries, remove the grip, etc.. Putting the main battery in the camera  got it all working, but as soon as I put the grip back on, it might go for a couple shots, but then it would stop. No error, just black.

I took the grip off for a few weeks and let it dry out, and now it seems to work fine 80% of the time. The other 20%, the portrait shutter release won't release, though it WILL work at half-press... And, of course, only when I really need it...

Not sure it's worth getting a new BG-E7 at this point, with a 7D2 "around the corner" (it's a long, street, though...).

14
If this/these will be your only cards, perhaps buy what's cheapest. As for reliability, I really don't think there is much of a problem with either, so long as you stick with established brands, and buy from reputable sellers.

My kit consists of 4 32GB 1000x, 3 16GB 400x, and an 8GB 400x. With my 7D, each 32GB allows me to take about 1,200 RAWs, or over 5,000 JPEGs (something I rarely do), for a potential total of almost 7,000 RAW images. I shoot wildlife, and it's often that I shoot 8FPS bursts, particularly with small, fast-moving subjects. In a day's shooting, I can fill a 32GB with RAWs, and come close to filling another.


15
The mirror allows a lot of light to the autofocus points that are behind it, so not all of it is reflected.

The reflex mirror allows a small portion of the light through for AF. It makes no difference to your eye, since your eye has the greatest computer on earth letting you see the image.

The sensor reflects quite a bit of light (I don't know if enough), a nano coating could be optimized to increase the reflectivity at 45 degrees.

The sensor reflects some light, but that is a natural result of having a highly polished surface. (It's like when your smartphone is turned off, you can use as a mirror in a pinch, but you wouldn't want to replace your bathroom mirror with it.) It is not the same as being a mirror. Any coating the increases reflectance will decrease the amount of light passing through it, therefore making the sensor less sensitive to light.

Live view would work just like now, the sensor would go into vertical position.

So how is it AFing again? I thought you said it used dual pixel?

The sensor would not be attached at the edge, but it would be through the middle, it would pivot on this axis. It would move half the distance that the mirror does now.

That might help a little... But one there is another issue. Your mirror box will need to be longer, unless you expect Canon to drop the EF lenses altogether, and make a whole new line based on the new, shorter, registration distance.

Vibration seems to be the biggest problem to me.

That is an understatement, I believe. There is a lot more in the sensor than you can see through the lens mount...

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