October 25, 2014, 04:54:22 PM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - instaimage

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Lenses / Re: 400 f/2.8L II IS on sunny days and white jerseys
« on: October 20, 2014, 04:08:12 PM »
As someone else mentioned - that's a thin line of focus, too. On a sunny day you should be able to get away with a higher  f-stop.

The point of owning and shooting a 400 2.8 is to shoot it at 2.8... yes, you CAN get away with a greater depth of field in daylight... but that's defeating the purpose of shooting sports with long fast glass.  There's good reason to have shallow depth of field shooting sports (and a whole heap of other things as well...).

Keep us posted what Canon offers in the way of info.  :)

2
Lenses / Re: 400 f/2.8L II IS on sunny days and white jerseys
« on: October 19, 2014, 07:28:44 PM »
Please post back here with what Canon comes up with.

I've also sent an email to a Canon fella I met at a Canon Workshop, I'm hoping he might be able to shed some light on things...

I've not had this problem, I don't tend to shoot sports, but I often use the expanded AF selection. Would this help maybe? It might just help if the problem is to little contrast on the white. Maybe a polarizing filter would help.

Yeah I'm not sure.  Before when I was shooting sports I was using a 300 f/2.8L I IS and so therefore I was closer to the subject.  This is worse as the distance from me to subject increases as well so it could just be the 300 had more contrast to detect.  Either way, I missed a lot of shots and I'm at least going to have Canon check it out as I'm sending it in tomorrow. 

We'll see.  Thanks.

3
Lenses / Re: 400 f/2.8L II IS on sunny days and white jerseys
« on: October 19, 2014, 07:26:15 PM »
Yes!  It's amazing the timeliness of your post!  My shoot yesterday was a mess... 1DX & 400 2.8 II... white jerseys... I also have a local friend that's been complaining about the same thing.  She sent her X into Canon, as always they are insanely vague as to what they've done and/or are doing and then send it back with more vagueness... :)

We tend to be having more of an issue with bursts not having all four or five images sharp.  I have the newer 400, she has the older, we're both feeling like we're not getting good consistent focus. The team I shoot the most of is predominantly white at home for soccer but for football they wear royal and I don't seem to have as much issue at night under the crappy lights... yesterday during the day (11 am and 1 pm games) I had fits with the AF tracking and locking for an entire burst....

I'm planning on calling CPS but I'm gathering they're just going to tell me to adjust the 1st Image Priority and the 2nd Image Priority to focus instead of release... which is just "corporating up" to me... slow my camera down so it can keep up... that's not why I have as many X's as I do...

I've been shooting on the 4 additional assist points, I move the Cases around generally between 1 and 4 but have even tried 2 and 6 to try to get it to work "better"... it's very frustrating!

Has anyone noticed a decrease in AF accuracy on bright sunny days where your team is wearing white jerseys.  I am often disappointed in the keeper rate in these situations where the camera/lens seems to focus nowhere in particular even though it says you've locked on the player.  I noticed it seems to be worse with the 400 than with the 300 I used to own.  Does the bright white fool the AF system?  Just wondering if anyone else had some of these troubles over time.  Sunday the soccer game was at 1pm and it was particularly bad.  I post an example:  1st frame shows the blurry jersey and face, 2nd is better.  3rd frame I can't figure out but the "brightness" made the AF jumpy I recall.  I didn't keep any of these for submission obviously.

Thanks!

4
EOS Bodies / Re: Can "Flicker" feature of 7D2 be a firmware update to the X?
« on: September 28, 2014, 09:58:15 AM »
If it's useful, it'll be in the 1Dx II.  :-\

Jim

Do you see any reason why it's not something that can be added via firmware?  The sensor is in place, we've already seen "additions" to the firmware that are functional in nature... I understand Canon not wanting to add more to a previous body but not so much as a minor hint has been dropped about the X replacement and we've been talking about the 7D2 replacement for years.

I'll tell you right now, if it really does what it says, it's useful... VERY useful... will save a lot of photos from the delete button for a lot of my "lighting".

5
EOS Bodies / Can "Flicker" feature of 7D2 be a firmware update to the X?
« on: September 28, 2014, 01:24:25 AM »
Just been eyeing the 7D2 and it's features, really seems to be a mini 1DX... if I didn't have four X's I'd be more tempted... but I was looking at what they've put out regarding the flicker feature, am I missing why this might not be able to be something added in a firmware update to the X?

6
Lighting / Re: Speedlites - How many are enough?
« on: September 27, 2014, 12:10:31 AM »
Quasimodo... as with most everything else with photography, it depends...  :)

I've got eight 600's and two ST-E3's... I frequently use four (on battery packs) to light team photos (faster recycle) and at least two in a 32" soft box to light individuals for sports shots.  I went mostly speedlite's as a solution because I'm not dependent on power on location AND I can put them in various places if I need a bit more light here or there...  The radio transmission of the 600's allows some added flexibility... but it all goes back to what are YOU shooting, what will YOU be using them for... it's hard for us to give advice without knowing what you'll be shooting.  I'd recommend shoot what you have and add if you NEED more... they're not cheap but you may find you're getting most everything with what you've got.  If anything I'd suggest one more, that would give you two for a background and two for a main/fill if you every shoot a white background for example (yes, I know the background CAN be made white with just one... but...)

The above team photos... I used to do that with one 580EX... so...

7
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 1dx shutter problems
« on: September 16, 2014, 12:26:03 AM »
I had a shutter mechanism fail at 20k frames... they're mechanical parts, bound to have failures of some type, it's just the law of averages, they can't be perfect...

8
Regarding the 1DX (I'd guess it's the same for the 5D3 having the issue too...), send it into Canon for inspection... just got mine back from CPS, shutter assembly had to be replaced.

I had an under-exposure issue on the first frame vs. your darker... shutter was sticking for the first exposure then was fine for subsequent frames.  Mine would occur after the camera had "rested" for awhile, as long as I kept using it I had no issue, it was the first burst after not using the camera for a bit.  I noticed it happening the first burst of the day, I was shooting a 22 day baseball tournament so I got to see it happen and could recreate it quite easily.

You describe my problem. Many thanks. Canon has to fix this with a replacement of the shutter assembly.

That was the fix they made to mine... Like I mentioned, I hadn't seen the issue on any of my other X's so I knew there was something up... I'd already put double the exposures on each of the other three so I knew when I started seeing it that there was something up with the body... I sent it in with a disc of samples... they were able to replicate it so the shutter assembly was their solution... :)   Might give them a call at least so see what they say....

9
Regarding the 1DX (I'd guess it's the same for the 5D3 having the issue too...), send it into Canon for inspection... just got mine back from CPS (just yesterday in fact...), shutter assembly had to be replaced.

I had an under-exposure issue on the first frame vs. your darker... shutter was sticking for the first exposure then was fine for subsequent frames.  Mine would occur after the camera had "rested" for awhile, as long as I kept using it I had no issue, it was the first burst after not using the camera for a bit.  I noticed it happening the first burst of the day, I was shooting a 22 day baseball tournament so I got to see it happen and could recreate it quite easily.

I hadn't seen the issue on any of my three other X's...

10
Not sure if you like Digital Rev on youTube or not... you can get some useful info out of Kai's reviews... sometimes... I've wondered myself about both of the lenses you're looking at and decided to stay where I'm at without them... but instead have just bought the new EF-S 10-18mm IS...  Here are the three reviews, check them out... maybe something of use for you here...

28mm 2.8
http://youtu.be/laahqJ1zVRM

24mm 2.8
http://youtu.be/3RVh2HC0KSw

10-18mm 3.5-5.6
http://youtu.be/G7Q-5XhkAXU

I know you give up the depth of field but with this short of a lens you've got to get quite close to something to get the "advantage" of the 2.8 for shallow depth of field so... Good luck with your hunt!

11
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Cps gave me a 1dx and falling in love
« on: May 18, 2014, 01:40:51 PM »
1Dx RAW files are better.  Don't know why.  I had a 1Dx and a 5D3 and sold the 5D3 and got another 1Dx.  You'll love it.

Ditto!  I have a 1DX infatuation... is there a support group for that yet? :)

12
With the latest FW there is a way to have both AI Servo and One-shot modes programmed to two different back-button focus buttons.  I have my Af-On button as my regular AI Servo mode and I have the * button set to be one shot focus.  This setting is done differently than the way you are doing with the AIServo-Oneshot switching button, which as you have found out requires it to be held down.  With the other way you have a full separate button for one-shot and a separate button for servo.

You set this up in the C.Fn 5 menu under Custom Controls.  You would set the shutter button to "Metering Start" and then you would set AF-On and * to "Metering and AF start", select it and then press the INFO button for the "Detail Set".  This will give you a menu with 4 options: AF start point, AI servo AF characteristics, AF mode and 14FPS super high speed mode.  You only need to make changes to the * button as the AF-On will stay at default values.  For the * button I go under "AF mode" and select "ONE SHOT".

Alternatively you could use this way to set up two different AI Servo modes on the two different buttons.

Apparently I was misunderstanding the original question... these instructions are for setting up the camera to back button focus... I thought you wanted to set the camera up to change focus modes with a push of the back buttons AND keep focus on the shutter button... sorry, I thought you were choosing not to back button focus... Back Button focus offers a lot of functionality that I think you'll appreciate!

13
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 1DX camera
« on: May 17, 2014, 09:14:08 AM »
I have about 165k exposures across 4 1DX bodies... I had three of them (one is much newer) in for the last service advisory because they were all early X bodies (https://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_1d_x?pageKeyCode=prdAdvDetail&docId=0901e024809120b7)

... but otherwise have had zero issues with any of them... my first two were July 2012 then January 2013 and now March 2014.

14
EOS Bodies / Re: Thinking about moving from a 1Dx back to 5D MkIII
« on: May 17, 2014, 09:08:03 AM »
I had both cameras for business, still have a 5D3 as my "family" camera (short story of why is that it's smaller than the X and my wife uses it... but... on vacations... the X goes if I'm shooting...)...

So, I had both, I shoot sports and a lot of league photo type stuff... I used the 5D3 as my team camera as it has more megapixs... My thought was there would be more detail potentially with more megapix... then I shot a team photo with an X and started to compare the two images... I personally like (so don't flame me people, it's "my opinion"...) the file "quality" out of the X better than the 5D3... I sold my "business" 5D3 and bought my 4th 1Dx.  Now I have no compromises, I only have X's so it's me if there's a problem now and I can't point to the camera and say "... well I used that body..." (even though the 5D3 is a fantastic camera...)

I would say if you've compared the quality of the images between the two cameras and you're happy with both, the 5D3 offers some advantages over the X...

15
I believe it's a more "natural" thing for you if you back button focus... then you're just hitting a different button for a different function.  It adds an option that was not available before... and I'm guessing based on the "content" of the last firmware update that the high level pros (Peter Read Miller types) were the ones asking for the upgrades to the functionality of the camera.

I'm pretty sure what you're asking cannot be done without just changing the mode using the AF-Drive button on the top left of the camera.  The instruction that you're referencing states "when you hold the button down" twice in the paragraph.  I'm afraid you're stuck with the top left controls or start using back button focusing... when I switched it took me a few minutes to get used to it but now all of my X's and my 5D3 (even the one my wife uses, yes, I made her switch too and she's not a shooter, just a mom with young kids...) all use back button focusing.

Pages: [1] 2 3