December 22, 2014, 08:11:31 PM

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Messages - fotofool

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As someone's who loves Canon glass and is heavily invested in Canon hardware, I'm going to be sad if the larger Canon community becomes an echo chamber for Luddites.

Yep, this is becoming "a thing."  The added flexibility of modern sensors is definitely changing generally accepted capture techniques.  Fill flash, reflectors for fill light and split ND filters are starting to seem quaint.  Here is another article...

I used to do exactly this, except indoors against window light, all the time with my 5dmII by asking people to hold very still and doing three bracketed exposures.  Then I discovered that I could achieve the same result with my Leica M with a single exposure.  The result is far more reliable, easier to capture and way easier to post process.

Lenses / Re: Stacking drop-in filters?
« on: October 13, 2014, 10:33:11 PM »
Interestingly, I found Tiffen makes "combo" polarizer+ND filters in several steps of ND.  But they are linear polarizers and only come in 138mm!   :-\

Even if they made it in 52mm, there would be no way to rotate the CPL using the drop-in holder...

True... Which would be annoying but not a show stopper for my purpose.

Lenses / Re: Stacking drop-in filters?
« on: October 13, 2014, 05:56:57 PM »
I wonder if there's a way to affix a cut gelatin ND of the desired strength to the DI CPL?

I guess this sounds like the least bad option.  Thanks for your thoughts everyone.

Interestingly, I found Tiffen makes "combo" polarizer+ND filters in several steps of ND.  But they are linear polarizers and only come in 138mm!   :-\

Lenses / Stacking drop-in filters?
« on: October 12, 2014, 11:11:49 PM »
Lately I've been shooting motorsports with my 200 f/2.  I've found that, to get the look I want, I need to use a polarizer (to manage glare) and a slow shutter speed (for motion blur of the background and spinning wheels).

So, what I want is both a CPL and an ND filter.

The problem is, there doesn't appear to be room in the slot for drop in filters to stack filters.  And the Canon drop in CPL doesn't have threads to hold another filter anyway.

Does anyone know of a solution to achieve both polarizing filtering and additional ND filtering in a Canon super-tele?


Theater, Concert and Event / Re: Nightclub photography shots
« on: October 05, 2014, 01:16:29 PM »
I drag the shutter all the time but having color lines that go across the subject are not something I often see.  Strange.  Thanks anyway!

Check out the last picture in the shutter dragging tutorial and the description of how it was done...

Theater, Concert and Event / Re: Nightclub photography shots
« on: October 04, 2014, 09:40:30 AM »
"Are those brushed in with Photoshop? If not, I'd love to learn how you did that."

+1  Ditto!

Google "shutter dragging."  A relatively long exposure with camera or background motion causes blur/light streaks and a flash or strobe freezes the foreground.

Landscape / Re: Fireworks pics, let's see 'em!
« on: July 05, 2014, 11:36:38 PM »
I haven't edited the ones from this year yet, but I have one from last year...

EOS-M / Re: Cheap 400mm advice
« on: July 05, 2014, 11:20:32 PM »
Hey guys I was wondering which would be better for achieving ~ 400mm focal length with the M. I would like to take some occasional pics of the moon. I've done it before and found 400mm to be long enough with a bit of cropping.

This question made me wonder how the EOS-M + Rokinon 300mm would do for moon pics.  It's design is more like that of a common astronomical telescope than a conventional photography lens.  So I went outside and took a quick test shot.  ISO 100, on a tripod, cropped (of course) and some adjustments (levels, curves, clarity, saturation and sharpness) in LR.

EOS-M / Re: M+22mm for Travel/Street?
« on: July 02, 2014, 02:28:47 AM »
@fotofoll - Nice shots - very diverse subject matter. Are all of those shots done with the 22mm?

Thanks!  Yes, all with the 22mm.  I posted different shots, including some street, to show its versatility.

EOS-M / Re: EOS-M with Rokinon 300mm EF-M lens
« on: July 01, 2014, 04:27:15 AM »
Here are a few more...

EOS-M / Re: EOS-M with Rokinon 300mm EF-M lens
« on: July 01, 2014, 04:25:00 AM »
I just used two rubber bands.  Seems to work ok.  And if you need to access the touch screen you can just pull back on the loupe and stretch the rubber.

EOS-M / EOS-M with Rokinon 300mm EF-M lens
« on: July 01, 2014, 12:07:24 AM »
I just got the new Rokinon 300mm EF-M lens.

When I go on landscape trips I carry my Leica with a couple wide primes.  I use the EOS-M with Leica lens adapter as a small/light back-up camera.  I want to have a wildlife lens for those occasions when a great shot presents itself, but there is no way I'm going to carry a conventional long telephoto.  This little mirror lens for the EOS-M seemed like a great option so I gave it a try.  I took it out shooting this afternoon for the first time.  I found that, to focus effectively (it is manual focus) I had to press my Hoodman loupe to the screen and treat it as a viewfinder.  Not very elegant, but it works.

I was really surprised by the clarity and character of this simple lens.  It can't handle a bright back ground (strong flare and loss of contrast) and it needs a little adjustment in ACR to boost the contrast even in the best light.  Also I found the colors very muted but a custom color profile with a color checker passport completely resolved that.

EOS-M / Re: M+22mm for Travel/Street?
« on: June 30, 2014, 11:54:04 PM »
For sure.  If you are inclined to carry one prime lens to do it all the 35mm equivalent is a great choice.  I often carry my Leica M with 35mm prime.  But, when I don't want to because of its value, or size and weight, I carry my EOS-M with 22mm.  I won't say the EOS-M kit is as good as the Leica (which cost approx 40x as much!) but it is a great little camera.

I agree I do miss a viewfinder though, especially in bright light or when focusing manually.

My understanding is that if you have a RAW file and the sharpening is set to ZERO you get the best image quality because you have not changed the original raw data and that should be exactly the same sharpness that the sensor reads through the lens.

Then if you add any sharpening at all you change the original sharpness by sharpening it more than was originally captured and thus you lose image quality.

My understanding is different.  If your lens has an MTF of 1 all the way to the corners (theoretically perfect) it will cast onto the sensor an image that is as "sharp" as the scene being photographed.  If you have a real lens it will make an image that is less "sharp" and therefore of lower image quality.  Also, as neuro points out, the sensor and its AA filter reduce the image quality more by taking away even more "sharpness."

The mathematical sharpening algorithm tries to improve the image quality by correcting these flaws introduced by the optical and electronic systems.  As with any such post processing correction it can be over or under done.  But even for L glass lenses some amount of correction seems to help.

Of course, if you prefer a slightly unsharp soft focus kind of look, you will like the loss of sharpness caused by the camera and not like the corrected look.  But that does not seem to be the prevailing preference.

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