December 21, 2014, 11:16:31 AM

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Topics - eninja

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Lenses / What 2nd bokeh lens for wedding?
« on: December 02, 2014, 03:36:37 AM »
Hi, I got 6D with 24-70 f4L. I also got 70D body. What lens should I get?

I have shot 3 weddings in total. For just capturing the event and group shots. 24-70 is superb IQ already for me.
Together with 430ex ii and graslon dome diffuser.

But when taking portrait of bride. I don't have the right lens. I use the 270ex ii on the 70D with diffuser.
I don't have much experience on wedding scenario so I couldn't decide what lens is best.
. 70-200 f4L IS
. 50 f1.2L
. 35 f1.4L

For my 70D.

EOS Bodies - For Video / Capturing Still from Video, best practice?
« on: November 23, 2014, 10:25:30 PM »
Hi, I know that it is possible to save one frame of video to make it one still photo.

What is the best video recording settings for this to have good IQ for the resulting still photo? Higher Frame Rate? All i or ipb good enough?

Is taking frame from video to make photo "normally done" and good enough for alternative shots for a given event aside from the still camera?


EOS Bodies - For Video / Video Editing Work Flow?
« on: September 29, 2014, 01:16:31 AM »
I am beginner on taking video / film making / videography (i dont know if these terms can be use interchangeably).

After recording a video using my 6D. The SD card shows .mov file.

  1. What is usually the next step? should I convert it to other format prior to video editing?
  2. What are the usual video editing that needs to be done? cutting/rejecting portions of the video?
  3. What is the usual final format (for still, its jpeg).


Lighting / Basic help: How does Flash exposure compensation works
« on: September 18, 2014, 08:02:02 PM »
Its been very long, I have been playing with flash. But never get serious and until now, I just guess and set FEC to between 0..+1 .

But how does really FEC work with regards to camera exposure.

This is how I thought it work, flash output power release will depend such that it attain the exposure set on FEC.
For example: FEC is set to +1, in camera manual mode, i set camera exposure to 0. thus the amount of flash output will release power enough to make exposure to to +1. (in ETTL mode of course)

Inline with this concept, it follows that when i set FEC to -1,
since camera exposure is 0, the flash should not even fire at all..
but the real result from testing is not like this. flash still outputs and make the scene brighter than 0 exposure..
Thus making my initial concept wrong.

Comment please.. Any expert care to elaborate the concept.. I want to grasp just the concept.


**please dont give comment like suggest reading a book or website. If you know something, please share it.

Photography Technique / Can Recommend Ready made website
« on: September 16, 2014, 04:33:05 AM »
So now I am using zenfolio to advertise my work online. Zenfolio is basically a ready made customizable website for photographers.

Before I commit, does anyone can suggest a better alternative I can take a look before committing on Zenfolio?

Thank you.

Software & Accessories / Any NAS Experts? quick question
« on: August 04, 2014, 11:41:33 PM »
I got two laptops, I want to have a common storage where I can access the storage on either laptops.
Access means I can do image editing of file saved on the actual common storage.

While having this setup, I want my internet to be on wifi still.

What are my options?
Specifically, I worry when I attach a LAN cable to my laptop. My laptop will search internet on the LAN network and ignore wifi reception. Is this correct?

Does common setup always use Ethernet LAN? I was thinking like, I connect my external storage system to both laptops thru USB.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Manual Focus using 700D - Wow!
« on: July 29, 2014, 09:11:47 PM »
So I got myself a part time shooting client on weekends in the park.
I like the simplicity of a prime lens so I got 35mm IS and 85mm 1.8. - plus one body 6D.
To avoid changing lens all the time, I decided to get another body.
with low budget I only get to choose crop body. - I got a brand new 700D with 18-55 stm at bargain price.

On the first night, testing view finder AF - its so cheap that I could not use it professionally, plus no back button focus, very hard to choose af points - i was like holding a toddler's toy camera. Live view auto focus is good but I could not find myself moving my hand here and there while taking shots. So I post it for sale on the next day.

Nobody confirmed to buy it. So I play it on my second night.
Trying my best to give it a place on my shoot.
Mount my 85mm. and say I might as well try Manual Focus on this thing.

Suddenly, bam! bam! Its so easy and fast to nail manual focus on this thing using live view. And the swivel screen was perfect for this.

I suddenly fall inlove with manual focus, not the 700D. lol. :)
big problem with 700D, exposure setting. - NO MINIMUM SHUTTER SPEED AND ISO step is 1 STOP?????!!
so now im keeping 700D for a while, upgrade to 70D later.

now its the lens issue. 85mm on crop is to narrow for me.
looking on a good manual focus prime now!

I would like to ask some tips on shooting outdoor family portraits, specifically in the park.
I will try to describe the scenario and hope you can share how would you take the picture.
The only tool i have are camera and flash.

the scene looks like this: Its on a park, there's green grass all over, one big tree, bright skies, hard sunlight,

My specific question is, would the use of flash be better? - i haven't tried and would like to ask for your inputs to get good shot - coz i find my pictures, if taken on shade, background scene is over exposed.
and if i take directly under the sun - light falls on the face too bright - should I use flash and over power the sunlight?

And as Sir Surapon used to say.. thanks thanks thanks to all master teacher here in forum.

Definition of Master: if the effort to attain the goal is lost, the u r a master of it.

Reviews / Please help me love ef 35mm f2 IS vs 40mm pancake
« on: July 20, 2014, 09:23:33 PM »
I recently got a 10 month old 35mm f2 IS. On top of my two month old 40mm pancake.

I love the pictures coming out from pancake when it came, so sharp, so cute, so light, no distortion, i can make head shots with no enlarge parts.
6D and 40mm combination as light as like i was holding my nexus 7.

Recently, I invested on 35mm f2 IS.
I could not love the pictures at f2, portrait subject is not sharp, and its just giving me a headache looking at it.
at f2.8 picture almost identical on both lens.
I shoot 1/60 and faster so i eliminate the love for IS.

Field of view wise, with 40mm i can take one step backward and field of view is the same.

Maybe I'm doing it wrong. And need more time to play with 35mm. Or I could rent a 35L and see how it fairs.

again f2 is not a keeper at all. or my copy is not sharp as per normal.

Lenses / Something with 50mm L lens that make it different
« on: July 18, 2014, 04:36:32 AM »
i was comparing image taken by 50mm 1.2 L vs 1.4 version.
There something about the image produce by 1.2 L that makes it Wow factor for me.

Like it has something to do with the color and amount of sharpness and gradient balance of depth of field.

Can someone give me insight what the hell is it im liking with the 50mm 1.2 L?

Lighting / i spoil my speedlite by using DIY speed grid
« on: July 02, 2014, 10:32:40 PM »
So I thought I better create DIY speed grid - it will be fun and save money. not to mention cool.

After googling it, what you will be needing are black straw, black cardboard, super glue and Scissors of course.
when down and bought a cheap super glue, - this was a trial for me, so might as well bought the cheap.
I just read the top part of the tutorial, should be easy.

And Wala! I made my DIY speed grid. Output light is so cool than my DIY snoot.

After doing like 30 min of portrait shot. When I woke up on the next morning. Took out my DIY snoot from flash head.

Shoot!!! - Where was my common sense - think out of the box did not work this time, and regret using the cheap super glue, or I should not use super glue after all. Stupid DIY tutorial - (self talking)

My flash light window together with the diffuser swivel is covered with super glue stain. all around. tsk!

- its 430 ex ii. - i was even hopin to sell it.

- hope canon service can fix this.

(Please excuse my broken grammar)

So I got a 6D with 35mm f2 IS. But 6D is just too big for a camera to bring along always. Its just too professional to bring with.

My objective: I need a camera that is small enough to carry and I can enjoy taking pictures and got 80mm equiv lens.
Image Quality is just Secondary.

Fuji Xt1 (APS-C)body is so cool but i consider it big and price is almost same as 6D now. So I beat the first part of my objective.

So I look at the rival - EM10 (M43). half the price of XT1. im pretty sure im going to get this gear. with 45mm 1.8. i pretty like the viewfinder.

Now EOS-M comes along - half the price of EM10. APS-C somemore. I can use my 35mm f2 IS with it (cool!). But would it beat my objective?? would it be small enough like EM10? would I enjoy looking at the LCD while composing. will I enjoy this set up than the EM10.

Then why not consider SL1, it got viewfinder somemore. I can also use my 35mm f2 IS.
Would the size of EOS-M + Lens Adaptor + ef Lens = SL1 + ef Lens??

I bought EF 40mm Pancake, most owner says:
1.  this lens will be mounted on their camera most of time
2.  sharp lens through out

And what do you know, its true! I myself can not believe cheapest (one of) lens of canon, and thinnest also the sharpest one!

Software & Accessories / How do you delete photos?
« on: May 08, 2014, 05:28:06 AM »
I believe one of the first phase in the workflow is to set aside rejected photos? How do you exactly do that?
Actually, what I do, I full screen the image and delete if I came across things I want to reject.
But, maybe there is really a proper and easier way.

Can you share how do you delete photos? and what software you use?

EOS Bodies - For Stills / [Q] When to not use ETTR?
« on: March 18, 2014, 05:43:51 AM »
I often use Av mode if possible and set my desired exposure 2/3 stop from zero.

When is the scenario, where in, it is desirable set exposure to 0 or negative?

Maybe like on a candle cake, when I want to get standard exposure (exposure 0) out of the candle?


Canon General / Accurate Color Capture
« on: March 13, 2014, 09:51:23 PM »
im an engineer working under R&D. im not a rocket scientist. im studying fluorescence of material. Fluorescence is, in my term, when you illuminate a given sample single wavelength of light, the sample absorbs this light energy and in return it glows or gives of light with color.

Now I am using a DSLR camera to capture the fluorescence of a given material, to record it. I don't know how to construct my questions. Many factors: Different Camera, different settings, will produce different color output as seen by naked eye, also depends on the screen, screen settings. white balance?? and etc.

With all of this factors, how can I narrow down, or make these variables constant as much as possible such that i can compare color output, any given time.

What are the factors that affects the color being output by the camera. Also does HSB, (Hue, Saturation, Brigthness) plays important role in this topic?


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