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Topics - nightbreath

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1D X Sample Images / Weddings
« on: April 24, 2013, 12:49:26 PM »
Something I would like to share  :)
Critique is welcome.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Too much dynamic range?
« on: November 20, 2012, 05:48:01 PM »
An interesting thought came to me before I went to bed. Below you'll find an assumption that came suddenly to my head, so please don't take it too seriously.

So... Let's assume there are two cameras with similar color tones reproduction abilities, but with different possible lightness level capturing ability. For example:
- sensor of camera A has 12 stops of DR, 16 billion tones it can distinguish
- sensor of camera B has 10 stops of DR, 16 billion tones it can distinguish

Having a flat scene (i.e. low DR scene) on a shot we'll push an image with, say, 8 DR to be captured with both sensors. And then both images will be edited in post to retrieve lacking contrast. So we need to add:
- 4 stops for 12-stop camera
- 2 stops for 10-stop camera

So my point is: with lower DR camera we'll have lower tone delta (difference of the initial color tone in the scene with reproduced tone by the sensor) when processing the low DR shot made using lower DR sensor. That happens because of decreased amount of modifications made to the file to achieve required result.

What do you guys think about that?

Software & Accessories / Polarizing filter in wedding photography
« on: March 11, 2012, 05:53:24 AM »
Hi everyone!

My main area of concern is the image quality, the feel and look of shots I get out of my camera during wedding photoshooting. I was thinking a lot about possible improvements and a thought that is floating around for a while is to use polarizing filters to reduce harsh light strength in the middle of the day.

So I'm just curios if it is wise to use polarizing filters for outdoor portraits as it's where I want IQ improvement in. This filter is usually used to lessen glare, reflection, saturate colors and add contrast, so I'm wondering if it would work for me or add more inconvenience to the workflow?

I would also like to ask the same question about ND filters (in combination with flash), graduated ND filters, UV filters and lens hoods. It would be great is someone can share their experience or some technique they use to get the best portrait quality out of the camera?

Here's an example of the creamy look that can be taken as a reference (it is most likely that this shot is balanced by flash and is heavily processed in post, but it can give a background of what I seek for):

I also heard that anything one puts in front of the glass degrades image quality to some extent, and it is always a trade-off of adding artistic manipulation. Currently I use flash and UV+protective filter, so I'm able to get this:

But I'm always wondering if it is possible to change the way I shoot for retrieving more important information and being more flexible in post.

I understand that flash / reflector is something that is normally used to balance scene lightness, so please don't turn the discussion into incorrect direction.

I have a Canon 7D and few lenses. The issue I’m experiencing for more than 2 years is related to autofocus with fast primes and can be replicated when camera is focusing at a non-contrast area. It doesn't matter what type of focusing / focusing point I use – I hear focus confirmation in the same manner as if camera has focused properly, but when I make the shot I see that it didn’t.

I've run several tests and identified that the lens AF is inconsistent comparing to Live View autofocus, when area in focus has no contrast. When I use lens AF in ~80% shots I'm getting front-focus issue.

Attached are crops from my tests, red square is the focusing point. Could someone confirm that this is normal behavior? Or should I sent my camera to Canon?

P.S. Shots were taken at ISO 800, 1/80 of a second, f/1.2 and f/1.4, using tripod.

Lenses / Canon 85L vs. 135 L in terms of focal length
« on: February 09, 2012, 08:35:16 AM »
I have a question related to different focal lengths and want to decide which one would work better for me.

I'm planning to go full-frame this year and want to have better understanding of the difference between 85mm and 135mm focal lengths for portraits. I love fixed lenses and looked through several sample shots made using both, but there are things that you can't predict by just looking at those pictures. I'm not able to try both by myself, that's why I'm asking for help here.

The only thing that comes to mind is different "compression" you get using different focal length (the more is your focal length the less is the distance between objects).

My main question is "could there be a need to own both?"

EOS Bodies / Canon 1D X High ISO shot preview
« on: December 31, 2011, 02:15:37 PM »
I've just spotted a short review of 1D X on YouTube where high ISO shot was shown on the camera screen. It's hard to tell the difference between the test shot and today's cameras performance, however if the image was taken at 204k ISO, it looks ok for me:

EOS Bodies / Do I need a better camera or a better pair of hands?
« on: December 21, 2011, 04:38:11 AM »
I want to get out of my camera everything I can, but I feel that I cannot achieve level of few local photographers right now. I'm not sure whether the camera applies limitations or it is me who needs another way of thinking.

I own 7D, use fixed lenses and some additional tools (flashes, reflectors) to achieve the best results I can.

I've formed an opinion that better color transformation (making the colors richer, extending separate colors' depth) can be achieved only on a new camera. Could you please take a look at images below and say what I'm missing.

Here's how my images normally look like:

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