March 04, 2015, 06:43:20 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - gbchriste

Pages: [1]
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Bag Recommendation
« on: February 12, 2015, 11:57:51 AM »
If the stars align I will soon be acquiring a second 5D III.  As an outdoor portrait shooter I normally work with the 5D III/70-200 2.8L II combination, which I carry to the field with lens attached in a LowePro Pro Runner 200 AW, along with a detached 24-70 2.8L II for when I want to go for an occasional wide angle shot.

But recently I've been doing more landscape stuff with the 24-70, and incorporating more wide angle work in my portrait sessions, and really feeling the pain of doing lens swaps out in the field.  I also recently got my first occurrence of an Err 80 during a session. A battery swap cleared it but my change in shooting approach coupled with the possibility of a pending gear malfunction got me thinking about acquiring a second body.

B&H has a great 5DIII/PIXMA PRO-100 rebate deal going on right now so thought this might be a great opportunity to add a second body to my kit and just keep the 24-70 and 70-200 each permanently mounted for ease of changeup during the session, plus have a hot spare should the need arise.

Canon 5DIII, PIXMA PRO-100 printer, 32GB card, battery (3rd party), small shoulder bag - $3099 but with a $550 rebate, so $2549 after rebate. Fold in the retail value of the printer, card and battery and that's close to $2000 for the body.

I really need a good recommendation for a bag that can hold 2 5D III's each with a lens attached (24-70 and 70-200, respectively), with the goal to be able to switch from one to the other without having to go through any kind of lens detach/attach process.

I prefer a backpack style.

Any help is appreciated.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Err 80 - Should I Worry?
« on: February 09, 2015, 02:48:51 PM »
I have 5D Mark III purchased new in June 2012 (shutter count unknown but probably in the 10,000 range). I was shooting a portrait session a couple of days ago with the MIII and 70-200 2.8L II when all of a sudden I locked up with Err 80 on the top LCD.  I've heard of this error before and know it can be a real source of worry, but never concerned myself with it as I had never experienced with this camera or the 5D II and 40D I used as predecessors.

In addition to a San Disk 8GB CF card, I also have a fairly new EyeFi Mobi card, which was in use at the time.  However, I have used that EyeFi card on at least half dozen occasions since November without issue.

Needless to say my heart skipped a beat. Powering off and back on didn't help so I pulled the battery and put a new on in and was able to restore function immediately.  I finished that session and did another complete session the next day without problems.

What is my camera telling me?  Am I on the cusp of a fatal failure?  Is this something that can just randomly pop up and disappear again like it did for me here?  What should I be looking at and thinking about?


Canon General / How To Water Proof?
« on: April 02, 2014, 07:50:09 AM »
I'm thinking about going on a couple of kayak excursions of the streams that cross the forested areas near where I live.  A couple of them are well known kayaking destinations.  Although I was quite an experienced canoer in my youth, I've never handled a kayak before and I know that even for experienced kayakers, an occasional capsize is not uncommon in some of the narrow passages where a run in with a submerged stump or overhanging tree limb can catch you up.  One of my main objectives of course is to do some photography along the way.

My question is how to stow my gear when it's not in use so that in the event of a capsize, it stays perfectly dry.  I would need some sort of water tight container that could hold a 5D III body, 70-200, and 24-70 lenses, but be small enough to not take up the whole boat.

Any suggestions?

Software & Accessories / FoCal Target Image
« on: June 25, 2013, 02:14:10 PM »
I bought the FoCal software package but haven't tried it out yet.  The user guides say to set up the target at 50X the focal length you are trying to calculate.

I'm having real problems with me 70-200 2.8L when shooting at 200mm and longer distance.  I shoot mainly people/portraits and when I try to do a full body standing shot at 200mm I have to be backed up quite a ways.  Lately every shot I've taken in that set up comes out a muddled, mushy mess.  I have this lens for 3 years and now on my 3rd body (a 5D III) and this behavior has only recently started.

But to my question...when I print out the target and set up at 50X focal length at the working distance I'm trying to calibrate for, the target is pretty small in the view finder.  Hardly even extends out of the spot meter circle.

I haven't tried running through the software yet because I can't find a good day of light outdoors and the light inside my house sucks.  But I did a trial set up to see what it would look like at 32 feet distance - which is 50X 200mm and that target is awfully small.

Can I still calibrate with that target at that distance or do I need to get the target enlarged?

EOS Bodies - For Stills / In Camera Nosie/Sharpen, etc - JPEG Only?
« on: September 10, 2012, 07:36:57 PM »
I've always been a straight RAW shooter.  The only time I've shot to JPEG is on a couple of events where I wasn't going to do any post processing and needed to hand the memory card off to someone else at the end of the day.  But I've got something coming up where I want to shoot RAW primarily but use the second card slot in my 5D3 to capture JPEGs just for a little extra insurance.

Right now have all of the in-camera processing turned off like noise reduction and sharpening. I do that all in post processing for my RAW images. I'm thinking I'd like to have these applied to the JPEGs I'm capturing to the second card.

I know this sounds like a dumb question and I really should know the answer, but can someone confirm for me that these in-camera processing settings are only applied to JPEG and not RAW images?  If some are applied to RAW, which ones are they?


EOS Bodies - For Stills / 5D3 Second Curtain Sync - Design Flaw?
« on: September 08, 2012, 05:54:50 PM »
I've got an event coming up where I need to use a couple of off camera 430EX II flashes fired with Cyber Sync triggers. The setup also will require second curtain synch, which I've never used before. So I've been sitting here going through my 5D3 menus trying to set second curtain synch and just discovered that the only way to do that is to have a powered-on Canon flash mounted on the camera.  If you don't have a Canon flash attached and turned on, you can't access the menu to set the shutter synchronization. 

Now, I just confirmed that if I attach the flash, set the shutter synch, then dismount the flash and hook it up to my Cyber Sync trigger, the second curtain sync that was previously set will work as expected.  I have all camera settings on manual and and as as test, set the shutter to 6 seconds and the flash did indeed fire just before the shutter closed. Then I remounted the flash on the camera, entered the menus and set it back to first curtain synch, dismounted the flash back to a off-camera manual setup, and this time it fired when the shutter opened.

So there is a way to get there.  But this obviously is not workable if you need to toggle between first and second curtain sync when using a manual off-camera flash setup, which I may need to do in this situation.

Am I missing something? Is there a way to set the flash curtain synch without having the flash physically connected to the camera and powered on? 

EOS Bodies - For Stills / 5D MK III Focus Hiccup
« on: August 25, 2012, 08:37:59 AM »
I bought my 5D MK III in early June. I haven't shot a ton of stuff yet - maybe about 2000 frames over 7 or 8 sessions.  But in 3 or 4 of those sessions, AF just quit.  I use back button focus and at some point in the session, I hit the AF button and....nothing.  No lens movement, no light, no beep, zippo.  These situations have all been in good light conditions.  The only way I cleared the system and reestablished AF functionality was to power off the camera and then power back on.  I don't typically shoot time-sensitive stuff like sports or weddings where I have to worry about missing "the" shot.  But I'm still concerned about this hiccup.  Anyone else seeing this anomaly?

Pages: [1]