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Topics - gbchriste

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Canon General / How To Water Proof?
« on: April 02, 2014, 07:50:09 AM »
I'm thinking about going on a couple of kayak excursions of the streams that cross the forested areas near where I live.  A couple of them are well known kayaking destinations.  Although I was quite an experienced canoer in my youth, I've never handled a kayak before and I know that even for experienced kayakers, an occasional capsize is not uncommon in some of the narrow passages where a run in with a submerged stump or overhanging tree limb can catch you up.  One of my main objectives of course is to do some photography along the way.

My question is how to stow my gear when it's not in use so that in the event of a capsize, it stays perfectly dry.  I would need some sort of water tight container that could hold a 5D III body, 70-200, and 24-70 lenses, but be small enough to not take up the whole boat.

Any suggestions?

Software & Accessories / FoCal Target Image
« on: June 25, 2013, 02:14:10 PM »
I bought the FoCal software package but haven't tried it out yet.  The user guides say to set up the target at 50X the focal length you are trying to calculate.

I'm having real problems with me 70-200 2.8L when shooting at 200mm and longer distance.  I shoot mainly people/portraits and when I try to do a full body standing shot at 200mm I have to be backed up quite a ways.  Lately every shot I've taken in that set up comes out a muddled, mushy mess.  I have this lens for 3 years and now on my 3rd body (a 5D III) and this behavior has only recently started.

But to my question...when I print out the target and set up at 50X focal length at the working distance I'm trying to calibrate for, the target is pretty small in the view finder.  Hardly even extends out of the spot meter circle.

I haven't tried running through the software yet because I can't find a good day of light outdoors and the light inside my house sucks.  But I did a trial set up to see what it would look like at 32 feet distance - which is 50X 200mm and that target is awfully small.

Can I still calibrate with that target at that distance or do I need to get the target enlarged?

EOS Bodies - For Stills / In Camera Nosie/Sharpen, etc - JPEG Only?
« on: September 10, 2012, 07:36:57 PM »
I've always been a straight RAW shooter.  The only time I've shot to JPEG is on a couple of events where I wasn't going to do any post processing and needed to hand the memory card off to someone else at the end of the day.  But I've got something coming up where I want to shoot RAW primarily but use the second card slot in my 5D3 to capture JPEGs just for a little extra insurance.

Right now have all of the in-camera processing turned off like noise reduction and sharpening. I do that all in post processing for my RAW images. I'm thinking I'd like to have these applied to the JPEGs I'm capturing to the second card.

I know this sounds like a dumb question and I really should know the answer, but can someone confirm for me that these in-camera processing settings are only applied to JPEG and not RAW images?  If some are applied to RAW, which ones are they?


EOS Bodies - For Stills / 5D3 Second Curtain Sync - Design Flaw?
« on: September 08, 2012, 05:54:50 PM »
I've got an event coming up where I need to use a couple of off camera 430EX II flashes fired with Cyber Sync triggers. The setup also will require second curtain synch, which I've never used before. So I've been sitting here going through my 5D3 menus trying to set second curtain synch and just discovered that the only way to do that is to have a powered-on Canon flash mounted on the camera.  If you don't have a Canon flash attached and turned on, you can't access the menu to set the shutter synchronization. 

Now, I just confirmed that if I attach the flash, set the shutter synch, then dismount the flash and hook it up to my Cyber Sync trigger, the second curtain sync that was previously set will work as expected.  I have all camera settings on manual and and as as test, set the shutter to 6 seconds and the flash did indeed fire just before the shutter closed. Then I remounted the flash on the camera, entered the menus and set it back to first curtain synch, dismounted the flash back to a off-camera manual setup, and this time it fired when the shutter opened.

So there is a way to get there.  But this obviously is not workable if you need to toggle between first and second curtain sync when using a manual off-camera flash setup, which I may need to do in this situation.

Am I missing something? Is there a way to set the flash curtain synch without having the flash physically connected to the camera and powered on? 

EOS Bodies - For Stills / 5D MK III Focus Hiccup
« on: August 25, 2012, 08:37:59 AM »
I bought my 5D MK III in early June. I haven't shot a ton of stuff yet - maybe about 2000 frames over 7 or 8 sessions.  But in 3 or 4 of those sessions, AF just quit.  I use back button focus and at some point in the session, I hit the AF button and....nothing.  No lens movement, no light, no beep, zippo.  These situations have all been in good light conditions.  The only way I cleared the system and reestablished AF functionality was to power off the camera and then power back on.  I don't typically shoot time-sensitive stuff like sports or weddings where I have to worry about missing "the" shot.  But I'm still concerned about this hiccup.  Anyone else seeing this anomaly?

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