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Topics - Valvebounce

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1
Sports / Kayaking
« on: March 30, 2014, 06:43:47 AM »
Hi Folks.
I took these on my first outing with my new 70-200 f2.8L II, I have to say I was completely blown away by its sharpness and focusing speed, ok my only previous reference has been my third party lenses, but wow!
Sorry no shot details, I have posted these from my iPad and it is too painfull trying to get the exif, it is in the images.
Perhaps later when I have time to sit at a pc I will put the details on. Shots straight from camera, shot raw + Ljpeg, thanks to the 7D frame rate and buffer depth with this setting I got what I think are some cool shots.

This young lady saw me getting set up and was very kind and waited for a thumbs up before going!

IMG_4421 by Valvebounce25, on Flickr

This guy practically submerged when he landed!

IMG_4430 by Valvebounce25, on Flickr

Airborne.

IMG_4465 by Valvebounce25, on Flickr

This guy rolled, and is seen recovering.

IMG_4562 by Valvebounce25, on Flickr

These guys just thought it would be fun to jump from the bridge! First shot trying to pan at 9.8m/s!

IMG_4606 by Valvebounce25, on Flickr

Thanks for looking, constructive criticism, suggestions welcome.

Cheers Graham.

2
Canon General / Lens advice for macro?
« on: March 20, 2014, 07:23:39 AM »
Hi Folks.
I tried some macro photography last night, I have a cheap set of extension tubes. I used the thin 1/2" tube with my 17-70 Sigma, I just about managed to focus before the lens touched the flower, by which time I'd blocked out so much light I could barely see it to focus! I'm not looking to buy a lens specifically for macro, but to get the best results fom what I have. Starting point complete novice except for a few test shots using lens reversing rings with little success, and a few shots of a flower last night with acceptable results IMO for a first try with extension tubes.

My question is, of the lenses I have which will be best for macro at a basic level?
Choose from:-
EF 50mm 1.8
EF-S 18-55mm
Sigma 17-70mm
EF-S 17-85mm
Cosina 100-300mm
Sigma 150-500mm and hopefully later this afternoon,
EF 70-200mm 2.8

Cheers Graham.


3
Canon General / Lens advice please, EF 70-200 IS I or II?
« on: March 15, 2014, 06:56:51 AM »
Hi Folks.
Need advice please.
As an amateur is it worth spending the extra money on the 70-200 f2.8 IS II for the improvements over the MK I version.

Who knew wish lists worked, but she just asked me about the lenses I put on it!  :o

Cheers Graham.

4
Technical Support / How many shutter actuations does Reican Focal take?
« on: February 22, 2014, 03:13:07 PM »
Hi Folks.
I'm fed up with pics that are not as sharp as they possibly could be.
I have decided I need to get Reican Focal Pro (pro for zoom over 400mm) just wondered how many shutter actuations it takes on average per lens to get a value, have read all the FAQs I could find and didn't see this info in amongst them.
Not particularly worried about increased shutter count, just curious, better to have a higher count on a camera I'm happy to use than a lower count on one I am fed up with!

Thanks in advance for replies.

Cheers Graham.

5
Lenses / Which 70-200?
« on: December 09, 2013, 04:37:00 AM »
Hi Folks.
I am making a Christmas wish list, thought I might try my luck with one more expensive gift! Something in the 70-200 range!
It will be second hand, used, pre loved or whatever you prefer to call it!
I am thinking in the £400 to perhaps £500 budget, so it looks like I may be able to get an F4L IS, F2.8L non IS or I have seen Sigma F2.8 with IS for about the same price. All price estimates are from completed eBay sales, and the F4 for sale locally.

Which lens would you go for and why?

What are the chances of getting a poor copy of each individual lens?

Edit. I am not specifically in to thin DOF pictures though I do understand I can stop an F2.8 down to F4 should I wish to but it doesn't work the other way! :D

Thanks for any insight into this dilemma.

Cheers Graham.

6
Technical Support / Custom modes.
« on: November 29, 2013, 04:00:47 AM »
Hi folks.
I have a 7D and would like to know if I can set custom menu settings (C fn) like focus priority, lens drive when AF impossible, focus search or not, and register them as C1 then set different custom menu settings and register under C2 or will changing these affect the C settings and P, AV, TV, M across the board?
Second question, can you understand my question above?  ;D  If not I will try to rework it as I'm not sure it makes sense to me and I know what I'm asking!  ???

Thanks in advance, I appreciate any help you may be able to offer.

Cheers Graham.

7
Technical Support / Battery grips, BG-E2 vs E2N
« on: November 01, 2013, 06:06:31 AM »
Hi Folks.
I have been thinking about getting a grip, (on all sorts of things but this is about the camera  ;D) and see that 1 grip could be used on 2 of my cameras.
My question is, I have read that the E2 has a dedicated BBF button where the E2N seems not to, I have searched for pictures to prove this but people seem quite lax at their picture labelling, showing E2N's as E2's more often than not.
Could a couple of you that have these grips please help clear this up. I have converted to BBF and really like the dedicated button.

I was going to get the N version for its slight weather seal improvement, but not if it's missing a button over the older version! ::)

Thanks in advance for any help folks.

Cheers Graham.

8
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Input on bodies please? Shutter count?
« on: September 22, 2013, 07:10:08 AM »
Hi Folks.
Well a bit of the background story first, some of you may have seen previous posts about poor focus quality of my EF-S 17-85.
A couple of weeks ago I found an advert for a 20D plus 17-85 lens, body has error 99! Well I took a chance and bought it for less than a broken lens on ebay, turns out the lens ribbon is broken. The body works fine!

I have my trusty 300D which I have had from new, it has 8990 shutter count, I know this as it had cellophane on the box when I got it and has never been reset, it has a fault on the info window showing exposure and aperture info, I caused this during fixing non pop up flash, it is the ribbon clip I broke! Other than that it is perfect with known history and I can't remember the last time I needed that display.

I also have the 20D that I just bought, it seems to work perfectly so far, and has 5988 showing as the current image number but it may have been reset and I don't know how to read the shutter count, I have seen the posts on the Internet about paying certain sites to tell me from an image but also heard this doesn't work, only tells IMG no.

The 300D is now my camera for documenting restoration work on classic cars, it is in a workshop most of its life, I still treat it with respect despite its near zero value, and for what it is used for it is great! Previous use has included time lapse of work just for a bit of fun and this accounts for a couple of thousand of the shutter count!

Would any of you guys replace the 300D with the 20D, also very low resale value, would you determine true shutter count before making any kind of decision, if so how can I do that?
Will there be an improvement in image quality from the extra pixel count, how much more durable is the 20D than the 300D, what is the expected shutter life of each?

No back button focus on 300D and so far I've not found if it can be enabled on 20D there is no dedicated button, a menu setting maybe?

Currently I am having mainly sentimental reasons not to replace it as the 300D was a birthday present from my partner, in fact she has bought me both progressive upgrades as well (40D & 7D). I will not use either of these in the workshop just in case of a disaster.

What to do with the 300D if I do replace it with the 20D?
I couldn't sell it for spares as I hate to think of such a reliable working camera being parted out for bits. My family are either too old too young or too disinterested in photography to make use of it!

If you have got this far, sorry for rambling on, thanks for reading and hopefully you can help with some or all of the questions posed here!

Any thoughts gratefully received.

Cheers Graham.


9
Lenses / EF-s 17-85 focus how poor
« on: September 06, 2013, 12:38:29 PM »
Hi Folks, I have the EF-s 17-85 kit lens from my 40D, I am using it on my 7D which I bought body only.
I have checked the AFMA using the dot focus method and find that from 50-85 I need 0 to +1 for centre point of dot method.
The problem arises as I get down to 17mm I am out of AFMA points starting at about +10 and still going at +20.
I had the ribbon cable repaired recently though I don't think this has caused the problem as I see that older pics have the same OOF problem.
My question is, is this normal for this lens, if not can it be easily dialled in as I see this is the end I use most.
I do not wish to spend any more on this lens and I am not shy of getting out the screwdrivers if I can find someone to tell me which bit affects what. What I don't want to do is experiment with adjustments and screw up the end that is in focus!
It is possible that the best bit won't be having the lens fixed but fixing it myself!

Cheers Graham.

10
Lenses / Sigma 18-50mm f2.8 any good?
« on: August 24, 2013, 07:35:47 PM »
Hi Folks
There is a Sigma 18-50mm f2.8 fo sale second hand near me. Is this lens any good, looking to pair it with 7D, is it worthy of this body? Been trying to get some larger aperture lenses on a tight budget.
This lens fits the available budget, as did the nifty fifty I bought second hand for £40 earlier this month.
The sigma 18-50mm f2.8 is up for £160. Worth it?
The looow budget is due to a huge endowment shortfall, so much as I'd like some nice new L glass I'm preferring somewhere to keep my gear dry! 8)

Cheers Graham.

11
Technical Support / Blinkies, highlight alert and ETTR How to?
« on: August 16, 2013, 07:57:14 PM »
Hi Folks. Camera is a 7D
I get the idea of the blinkies, to prevent blown highlights, and I think I get the reasoning for ETTR. Please correct me if I am wrong, slightly overexposing enables detail in shadow to be seen and it is easier to pull detail back from highlights than shadow without adding noise to the shadow?

My question concerns how to achieve some sort of balance, I like to take landscape and seascape pictures among others.
Others are generally Motorsport and BIF, both natural and man made!
What I am finding is that the blinkies are going before I ETTR, some times it will take around 1 stop to the left to reduce the blinkies to just a very few very bright highlights, then of course the shadows increase.

What am I doing wrong,

1 Using the highlight alert in the first place?  ::)
2 Metering mode, I have tried centre weighted and evaluative. Partial and spot seemed wrong by definition!
3 Not doing HDR. Would this even work with motion of the sea, clouds, boats and birds?
4 Other, please elaborate.

I know someone out there can help, and any and all help will be gratefully received.

Cheers Graham.

12
Technical Support / 7D silent mode not working?
« on: August 14, 2013, 04:26:54 AM »
Hi Guys, I tried the silent shooting modes on the 7D last night, mode 1 is supposed to be softer but still allows burst mode, I couldn't really tell, it may be a little softer but not so much I would say it would make a difference! Mode 2 is if I'm reading it right (yes I RTFM) supposed to hold the mirror return until the shutter is released to the half press position. This was not happening and I tried it several times to make sure I did hold the shutter release down!  ;D

I am wondering if there is a menu or custom setting of another option that disables this function? I am not using a 3rd party flash or any flash for that matter and that is all I could find that is listed as interacting with silent shoot.

Any help with this would be great as I am sure it is not working as it should, I have been wrong before though! ::)

How much difference in volume should it make, tons, not a lot, not worth turning on, I don't know some one please enlighten me.

Thanks in advance.
Cheers Graham.

13
Technical Support / AFMA Question
« on: June 15, 2013, 06:59:07 AM »
Hi guys,
I AFMA 'd my camera 7D and lenses using the dot tune method.

One lens, a Cosina 100 - 300 is definitely a poor lens, made focus jumps larger than 20 AFMA points in opposite directions at opposite ends of the zoom when switching from live view focus to through the lens. Phase detect to contrast detect.

One lens is a kit lens from my 40D, the EF-S 17 - 85mm +3 seems reasonable.

The other lens is a Sigma 150-500mm APO DG OS HSM. This ran out of range, at 500mm. Tried at 300 got +18.

I'd like to think the body is ok and it is the lens that is out. Without lots of lenses or other bodies with AFMA is there a way to find out if it is the lens or the body at fault?
The lens is out of warranty but the body is still in warranty so could get fixed if it is the body.

Any thoughts on this please.

I know my lens line up is not the same standard as the body deserves, I have plans to buy some L glass when I can afford it.

Thanks in advance for any help..

Cheers G.

14
Technical Support / AFMA 7D with Sigma 150-500mm.
« on: June 06, 2013, 08:01:27 PM »
Hi guys.
I have just AFMA'd my lenses on my 7D using the Dot Tune method.
Canon E-FS 17-85mm +3, seems reasonable.

Cosina 100 - 300mm tried it at both ends and in between, out of range in different directions at each end, out of patience! Older cheapish lens bought for film camera. Oh well!  :'(

Sigma 150 - 500mm out of range at 500mm, +18 at 300mm.  :-\
 
My questions are,
How do I know if it is the body or lens that is out? I am thinking lens as I was suspicious with it on my 40D and the
E-FS 17-85mm is only slightly out.

I do know that a pool of 2 lenses is not a good sample. I am discarding the results of the Cosina as it visibly moved in opposite directions at opposite ends of the zoom range when changing from contrast detect to phase detect focusing.

Anyone have experience with this lens, are they generally ok, can they be adjusted, local shop or back to sigma?

I would like to get the Sigma adjusted but it I have had it a couple of years without having the body with AFMA to test it with, prior to this I thought I was causing the OOF pics.

I think I will get one of the software products, probably FoCal, to make sure I have the right figures for the lenses.

Thanks in advance for any insight or ideas.

Cheers Graham.


15
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Real iso's?
« on: May 28, 2013, 04:44:46 AM »
Hi guys,
I have read before about intermediate iso's being interpolated from real iso's, but always thought that the last "real" iso was the one before the H setting.

I have no knowledge of the 5D2 in the quote below, is 3200 the last iso before the H or are there more before the H?

Where does one find out about the real iso's for a particular camera? Is it just a case of my 7D has 6400, so that is the last real iso, or is that also lifted from 3200?

I hope this isn't a hanging offence, but this is a quote of dilbert from the post that raised the question.

Topic was "Why is my 5D III so noisy?"

[/quote]

It doesn't matter whether it is ISO 3200 or ISO 6400. Once the ISO is past the point where IQ drops more than 1 stop per ISO stop, increasing the ISO and then overexposing does not result in a better picture because you lose more than you gain by moving the ISO higher.

On the 5D2 the last real ISO is 3200 and everything over that is software underexposing and pulling up.

Whether it is the same on others...
[/quote]

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