May 23, 2013, 02:28:31 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Topics - ahsanford

Pages: [1] 2
1
I was fortunate enough to get a photo pass to shoot a rock concert in my area. 

I am not a pro photog by any stretch, but the chance to marry up my two great interests (music + photography) was too good to pass up.  I've attached my really crude 101-level experience and lessons learned from the activity.  I welcome the concert vets to straighten me out if I've come away with the wrong learnings.

Gear selection

  • Faster wins.  Unless you are shooting a daytime outdoor show, you will 95% of the time be shooting close to wide open to avoid ISO values above 6400.  Faster glass will let you walk that back to 3200, 1600, etc. depending on the light.
  • Closer wins.  Shorter focal lengths handle longer shutter speeds better.  The golden rule of a maximum shutter of 1 divided by focal length is about right.   So a 50mm lens can get by with a 1/50s shutter, but a 200mm lens will need a 1/200s shutter, which often will require disastrous ISO levels.
    • So it's no surprise that I rarely see large sports glass off on the wings of concerts in large venues.  I don't think I've ever seen anything longer than an 70-300L at Coachella once the sun goes gown.  Most everyone I see in concert photo pits is carrying some sort of ultrawide (fishbowl, 14 prime, 16-35, etc.) and either a standard zoom (24-70 or 24-105) or prime (the 50 F/1.2 and the 135 F/2 are a regular sight).  Some folks pack the 70-200 as well.
    • I recognize this point (closer = better) completely dismisses the value of different glass for framing and composition, but if you want a sharp shot in this light, you have to make tradeoffs, right?
    • Also, your proximity to the stage, the size of the stage, etc. will drive the lengths you need.
  • What I brought and what I used it for:
    • Body = 5D3.  Not a selection issue for me as the alternative was my old T1i.
    • 28mm F/2.8 IS.  Not super quick, but IS on such a wide angle is super useful in the dark.  Used for wide shots up close at the stage (two guitarists in frame together, wide stage shot, etc.) as well as venue shots from the sidelines. Used it 5% of the night.  More about that later.
    • 50mm F/1.4.  This is my staple low light tool, but I noticed that it was front-focusing when I was setting up prior to the band coming out, and I didn't want to have to use MF.  It stayed in my bag until late in the night for some balcony shots as a result.  Used it for about 5% as well.  Need to set the AFMA on that and get it sorted.
    • 70-200 F/2.8 IS II.  A flagship sports / photojournalist / wedding lens, but F/2.8 is not ideal for concert lighting.  That said, there aren't many faster options at this length (other than the impressive 135mm F/2 and the comically large (but equally impressive) 200mm F/2).  Though I was planning on using the 50mm most of the night, I ended up using this 90% of the time.  It fared better than expected on focusing in low light, but the concerns of length vs. shutter speed needs obviously came up, so the ISO had to climb.  The 70mm end was not wide enough just a handful of times, but I made do.
   
Shooting up front
       
I got to the stage before the set and one of the organizers was on stage.  I flagged him down and he explained the classic thing I've read about:

  • I had fifteen minutes stage access, i.e. right at the stage (in front).  This is often phrased as being for three songs, but being a prog rock show, that could be 90 minutes.  So, for this show, it was stated as '15 minutes'.  Then I'd have to skedaddle.
  • No flash, of course.
  • No video, of course.
  • In that first 15 minutes, my head had to stay below the level of the stage, i.e. on my rear-end or kneeling.  Thais was not a traditional pit -- it was a four foot stage at a concert hall. 
    • This ended up greatly limiting my framing.  I was limited to waist up shots of the players for the most part, and shooting the drum kit was simply not happening without framing out the bottom 30% of the kit (the drum risers were not particularly high at this event).
    • This requirement effectively killed the up close / wide opportunity of the 28mm lens.  I had the awful choice of 1/3 of the VF being blocked by the stage or my two rocking guitarists being stuck in the bottom corners of a wide shot (not a good look, even after perspective correction).
  • For this show in particular, I could not mill about the aisles to shoot after the first fifteen minutes (house rules about blocking view or people leaving for the restrooms).
           

Camera Settings
       
  • RAW only.  Say this ten times.  I didn't even bother with the JPG + RAW as my card was rather full already.  With ISO 3200+ and with crazily shifting lighting, RAW is really the only way to go anyway.  JPG is useful for some shooting needs, but here, RAW is the best call.
  • Mode: I believe that Av, Tv and M all work (as always) provided you keep an eye on what you are not prioritizing. As a creature of habit, I shot aperture priority, but I was constantly working the triangle of Ap / shutter / ISO to get the best possible balance I could.   Call it 'manual shooting with metering for better exposure'.
  • Default setting was wide open or perhaps 1/3 - 2/3 stop narrower, ISO 6400 (3200 with the fast primes, perhaps).  ISO and aperture adjusted to get a more desirable shutter speed.  Exposure was generally a shade under normal (like -1/3 or -2/3 EV) as you don't necessarily want the background fully exposed (your subject will be too bright).
  • Standard (evaluative) metering -- I didn't need to mess with it at this event as the lighting was decent enough.  (Spot metering has been a prior call in some dark caves I've shot in the past.)
  • One shot focusing.  It's the most accurate unless you want to capture a burst of some David Lee Roth jump kicks (and the house lights are on).  This was not that kind of show at all.
  • Single point AF or the very small plus-shaped point cluster AF.  AF worked really well that night.  Lighting was decent.   Darker lighting + less modern AF glass = AF will hunt and you will miss shots.
  • Focused and then reframed on the wide glass (those are more DOF forgiving), but largely moved my AF point to the subject in the desired framing for the longer zoom I was using.

Composition lessons learned
       
  • Obvious, but must be restated -- shooting nearly fully open has a tiny working DOF.  F/1.4 - F/2 on the 50 prime is fine for a single subject, but if you want more than one musician in the frame, I had to do one of the following:
    • Stop the aperture down to F/5.6 - F/8, which usually meant increasing the ISO even further (i.e. 8000+)
    • Wait for the two musicians to be about the same distance away.  That happens less often than you'd like.
    • Wait for the house lights to come up.
    • Get further away, like on the balcony.  Larger distance = larger working DOF for a given aperture.
  • Move your feet.  Unless you know a band very well, your principal subject might not be where you want them to be.
  • Keyboards, mic stands can interrupt your framing, look unattractive, etc.  Again, move your feet.
  • Knowing the songs really helps.  With an emotive frontman or musician, if you know when the hook drops or the solo starts, you can time your shots for a rock face, fist pump, gospel arms, etc.
  • Don't forget the stage lighting.  Try to frame up the subject against a stage spotlight, or possibly just shoot the band member as a black silhouette in a field of color.  (Need to do that more next time.)
                       
Output / post-processing (note I'm somewhat odd in that I just use PS's Adobe Camera RAW instead of LR, Aperture, DXO, etc.)
       
  • Skintones are flat and tough looking at these high ISO settings, even on my great low light rig.  Extreme care has to be taken to avoid saturating skin tones in post processing, or your rock star looks like he spent a week in a tanning bed.  Also, software that avoids oversaturating skin tones can often fail as the stage lighting (if you didn't back it out with RAW WB processing) pulls the skin tone out of 'skin tone range'.  I need to do selective color editing in post, but I never do.  More work than I'd like.  I just did macroscopic RAW adjustments like vibrance and saturation, but at a fraction of what I'd normally do for the aforementioned skin tone reason.
  • White balance management is great with RAW, but I don't know if the goal is to subtract out the lighting tint on the subject or if I want to capture that as part of the composition.  I can do either, but I wasn't sure which to do.
  • Noise reduction is unfortunately necessary as the ISOs are high.  I generally hate what this does to details, so I do it sparingly.
  • Sharpness adjustments in RAW processing are a staple adjustment usually, but with low light it amplifies the noise.  So I generally did less sharpening to limit the noise reduction needed.

Please set me straight if I've misinterpreted the concert shooting experience with my statements above.  There may be a vital trick I am missing.

Thanks for your thoughts!

- A


2
Lenses / Sigma 18-35 F/1.8 just announced?!
« on: April 18, 2013, 02:24:00 AM »

When I saw a rumor listing for an F/1.8 zoom lens, I giggled and assumed it was the hoax du jour, late April fool's, etc.

Now I am not so sure:
http://photorumors.com/2013/04/18/sigma-18-35mm-f1-8-dc-hsm-lens-officially-announced/

And now I am sort of overwhelmed:
http://www.sigma-global.com/en/lenses/cas/product/art/a_18_35_18/

So Sigma has the nerve to make a faster than F/2.8 zoom and they make it for APS-C?!.

Someone help me understand the market target for such a lens.  After all, I thought the people buying high end glass for their APS-C rigs are 7D users buying long primes for birding.  What APS-C users have been lamenting that their 17-55 F/2.8 IS isn't quick enough?  I would argue that as cool as such a new lens might be to use, this can't be a massive gap in the APS-C users' bag, right?

So so so confused.  Help me make sense of this, thx.

- A


3
EOS Bodies - For Stills / 7D default zoom to actual size option?
« on: April 02, 2013, 12:52:18 PM »

Hey all,

I love the ability to set the default image review zoom to 100% to see if I nailed a shot.  My friend with a 7D was curious if that was added to his camera after the firmware change.   Was it?

Thanks,
A

4
Lenses / Is the upcoming 50mm F/2 IS USM for me?
« on: March 30, 2013, 03:35:57 PM »
Hello folks,

I thought I'd start my Saturday with an absurdly long thread about 50mm primes.

Why I want a new 50mm...


My Canon EF 50mm F/1.4 USM is a lovely lens for the dollar.  Sharp, large aperture, etc.  But I have a few more dollars now, and I've noted that I am missing some of the niceties of a modern lens, an L lens, etc.  AF can hunt from time to time, and though it has USM, it famously has the older USM which is not super fast.  Of late, I've noticed that I miss focus a lot with children.  So AF speed is a big reason for the upgrade, but IQ is a constant area for improvement.

Basic brand filtering...

  • I am a Canon snob when it comes to lenses.  This is generally for quality / reliability / resale reasons.
  • Must have AF for this length (sorry, Zeiss)
  • I am not interested in the Sigma F/1.4 as it has mixed reviews on build quality, AF, etc.  I know there are some huge fans of that lens, but until I see a Sigma 50mm with the accolades and IQ of the new 35mm F/1.4 'art' series, I am not considering Sigma here.

As you guys always ask when someone pipes up about lens selection, here are my shooting needs...
 
  • I am an enthusiast only, been shooting about 9 years now
  • Currently happily using a 5D3, so climbing up to ISO 6400 is not a problem.
  • I never shoot in a studio environment.
  • I almost never use a flash.
  • I don't mind vignetting... In fact, I kind of like it sometimes
  • I'd rather crank up ISO than shoot fully open as everything is soft in the corners
  • I am in really low light, handheld situations all the time.  My subjects generally are not moving, but I occasionally shoot at rock concerts.  I generally prefer stopping down for sharpness and more useful DOF with IS than getting handcuffed into having to shoot fully open and accept softness and minimal DOF.
  • High priority needs for this length: Walkaround, Candids, Kids, Handheld low-light (Not moving subjects)
  • Medium priority needs for this length: Handheld Low-Light (Concerts), Street, Portraits
  • Low priority needs for this length: Landscapes, Handheld low-light (Gymnasium Sports)
  • Zero need for this length:  Video, Macro, Field Sports, Wildlife
  • I'll pay more for better gear at this stage.
  • Weather sealing is great for a landscape-prioritized lens, but as I live in a place with near zero inclement weather, sealing is not a must for me in this length.
  • I rarely take things to print.
  • I generally shoot my Canon 50mm F/1.4mm in the F/2 to F/5.6 range.  I appreciate what large aperture glass offers, but I almost always stop those lenses down for more sharpness, more working DOF, etc.

What I'm considering...


It is presumed by many (and absolutely expected by myself) that the EF 50mm F/1.4 USM will finally get a modern refresh like the 24mm, 28mm and 35mm lengths.  I own the new 28 and adore it.  I hold it in the same regard as my L glass -- it's a joy to use.

So I am eager to compare this likely new lens to the 50mm F/1.2L.  Being an engineer, I then overthought the crap out of this and made a lens comparison spreadsheet.  SEE ATTACHED.  I've flagged one as better than other in each category, but those are just my opinion.  Further, I'm not tallying total wins in each field.  See priorities above for what really matters to me. 

Please let me know where my assumptions are off, or where your personal experience might have a different opinion.  Which 50mm of the two do you think is right for me?

-A

5
Lenses / Canon Store having refurb sale right now
« on: March 24, 2013, 11:33:19 AM »
As some of you may know, Canon sells refurbished gear at attractive prices.  Coming form Canon, these items are usually as functional as new.

When they put a sale on top of a refurb price, the good lenses disappear immediately.

Some of the prices summarized:  http://www.the-digital-picture.com/News/News-Post.aspx?News=4467

Actual store link for lenses:  http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductListingViewAll_10051_10051_-1_22751?WT.mc_id=C126149

Of note, some ultra-rare (to the refurb store) L lenses are still in stock, including the 100L Macro for $713 and the 35L for $1005.  Both are stellar deals.

- A   

6
EOS Bodies / Announcements on March 22, 2013? [CR1]
« on: March 07, 2013, 02:30:26 AM »

Just posted on Photo Rumors...

http://photorumors.com/2013/03/06/canon-announcement-on-march-22-eos-70d/

No source, but they have had a decent track record on announcement dates.

- A

7
Lenses / Metabones Speed Booster -- why only for FF to APS-C?
« on: February 01, 2013, 08:22:02 PM »
So I've done a little reading on the Speed Booster from Metabones.  Good breakdown here by Roger Cicala at LR:
http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/01/metabones-magic

So, the fastest way to describe it is as the reverse of teleconverter.  You lose length but gain speed.

I know that every time you bolt on something in series to a lens, something bad usually happens from an IQ perspective.  But blowing that off for just a moment, I had a question.

This thing is being positioned as a way to shoot a lens on an APS-C body at about the same focal length as FF (i.e a 50mm shot on an APS-C body + this doodad results in a roughly 50mm FF field of view).  It yanks out the crop multiplier, if you will.

However, I am far more interested in focusing the light and simulating a faster lens.  Would it be possible to make this work on FF bodies?  Could I turn my 50 F/1.4 into something like a 35mm F/1.0 on my 5D3? 

(Obviously, this version of speed booster would not work, but in principle, could one make an FF to FF speedbooster?)

Just curious, thx.

- A



8
Lenses / A second look at the 24-70 F/4L IS's place in my bag...
« on: January 31, 2013, 01:46:32 PM »
Hey gang,

I continue to be intrigued with the new 24-70L F/4L IS.  I don't own it yet, and I won't bite at the current price.  That said, I'm poking around at early data and reviews.

Despite a few near universal opinions on this forum:

  • Yes, we all wanted to see a 24-70 F/2.8L IS announced instead.  (Minus points if you link the Tamron sarcastically)
  • Yes, the current asking price for the new 24-70L F/4L IS is unreasonable.
  • Yes, 24-105 F/4L IS is already available -- with more length and lower cost!

I'd like to put those comments on the "I understand, but we're not talking about that here" parking lot.  Otherwise this thread will spiral into 'why did Canon do this instead of what I wanted' territory.  Please don't go there, thx.

I still am intrigued by a few points on this lens:

  • 70% max magnification from a standard zoom in L quality?  That's really ducked under a lot of people's radars.  This is a formidable on-demand macro option.  I often leave my 100L macro at home, especially when I am traveling, and tubes are a pain in my hands, so this is an attractive feature for me.
  • Smaller, lighter, etc.  I am carrying primes much more often than my pickle jar 24-70 F2.8L Mk I these days.
  • Better IQ.  I am confident that the new 24-70 F/4L IS will trump the 24-105 F/4L IS, but I am waiting for more data on how it stacks up to my 24-70 F2.8L Mk I.

Or another way to put it, isn't this new lens just a 24-105 minus length, but plus smaller size/weight plus better IQ plus 0.7x Macro?

I am not proposing that it is a good call right now, given its price, but given how little I shoot macro and how heavy my 24-70 F2.8L Mk I is, this lens could conceivably do an 8/10 job at replacing both.  I certainly wouldn't argue to pitch better lenses for this, but this could be a killer travel / vacation / 'fight all battles' lens call.

Thoughts?  Does anyone here have one and could share their usage experience?

Thx,
A

9

It's rare that Photo Rumors gets this stuff before CR does, but there is a translated story from digicame.info re: the timing of the 7D2:

Canon EOS 7D successor will not be announced at the CP+ show

http://photorumors.com/2013/01/24/canon-eos-7d-successor-will-not-be-announced-at-the-cp-show/#ixzz2IweHrCs1

FYI, if you hadn't heard.

- A

10
Lenses / CPL + Wide Angle = Sadness
« on: January 22, 2013, 12:02:44 AM »

Hello team,

I had a question regarding a certain frustration I've had with landscape shooting:  wide angle + circular polarizers.

The CPL has been a staple for me -- principally for contrast management with the sky in landscape work.  But as I am sure you all know, the effect is variable depending upon your angle to the sun.  Couple that with a wide angle lens, and whammo, you induce that ever-so-nasty local darkening/brightening in the sky -- I've been calling it 'CPL-pseudo vignetting.'  (It didn't really need a term, to be fair.)

Boring examples attached.  One with the maximum polarization, one with minimum.  Shot on a 5D3 with the 24-70 F/2.8L I on the 24mm end.  Straight JPG off the camera (I usually shoot RAW), re-sized only.

From a composition perspective, it seems like I only have four convenient choices to choose between:

  • Accept the pseudo-vignetting and take the shot.  Some dark blue sky is better than none.  I usually take this option.
  • Below a certain focal length, don't use the CPL and accept a glaring cyan sky.
  • Zoom in until the effect is minimized (on FF:  at least 35, more like 50 to me).
  • Move my feet, turn, etc. to cleverly reframe to put the darkness in a shady spot (if you can).

I have, of course, left out things impractical options like waiting for better / more even light, assembling multiple exposures or completely editing the sky down in post.

Physics are what they are, I'm looking less for a solution so much as a *convenient* thought process to net solid shots in these situations without a large post-processing task.  I strongly would like to get this right in-camera if possible.

Thoughts?  I appreciate your insights!

- A

11
Lenses / Tips needed for shooting in the cold
« on: January 16, 2013, 12:17:32 AM »

Hello CR Folks,

I'm off on a ski trip shortly.  I wasn't planning on skiiing, but I do intend to shoot a lot all over the mountain.
Was planning on leaving the non-L glass at home and sticking with my weather sealed 24-70 F/2.8L I and 70-200 F/2.8L IS II on my 5D3.  Both lenses are filtered for weather sealing.

Temperatures will be in the 10s-40s (F).  Can you guys give me the do's and don'ts of shooting in the cold?  Assume I'm outside for a few hours at a time.

Sorry for the rookie question, but all my snow shooting to date has been 5-10 minutes at a time so I didn't take any special precautions. So as I rarely shoot in the very cold, assume I know nothing about it.

So...

  • Should I never change the lens when out in the cold?
  • Should I never change a filter when I'm out in the cold?  (I often yank the UV in favor of a CPL depending on the sky, what I'm shooting, etc.)
  • I seem to recall there was a concern bringing in cold and/or externally damp gear into a warm place (like my cabin) -- something associated with condensation inside the lens as it equilibrates to temperature.  Should I ziplock bag my gear before I bring it into a warm indoors location?
  • My tripod is carbon fiber, and it will most certainly get cold and wet.  Do I need to take any precautions to using it in such conditions?

I appreciate your guidance.

- A

12
Lenses / Landscape tips needed on shooting the Grand Canyon
« on: November 13, 2012, 09:13:48 PM »

Hey CR folks,

I'm pondering a few days at the Grand Canyon, and I'd love your advice on a host of things. 

WHERE/WHAT I WILL BE DOING

I'm game for level day hiking around the rim, but I'm unlikely to walk/mule the descent into the Canyon itself.  I'm sure I will also get a good look at Sedona, the Page/Lake Powell/Antelope Canyon area, and possibly even Monument Valley.

Generally, I will be shooting landscapes (day and night).  But street/walkaround stuff (in the touristy places) and handheld macro work (cacti, flowers, etc.) will likely happen as well.  I have no desire to go after birds/wildlife unless I stumble across something (please note that I've spared myself the burden of owning huge glass -- madness that way lies, IMHO).

WHAT I WILL BRING

Since I'm driving to this, it will be easy to over pack.

Body + Lenses
5D3
24-70 2.8L (Mk I)
28 2.8 IS
50 1.4
100 2.8L IS macro
70-200 2.8L IS II + 2x III
Hoods for everything

Filters
UV and CPL for all of the above
ND grad 0.6 Hard + 0.9 Hard + Big Stopper only for the 77mm dia lenses above (the two zooms)

Standard stuff
Tripod, ball head, Arca plate, level, remote shutter, batteries, backup cards, etc.

QUESTIONS, QUESTIONS, QUESTIONS

Now, all that said, here are the questions:

1) Should I consider renting an ultrawide prime or zoom?  Given the wide open spaces, one might think I am missing 16-24mm on the list above.  Rent a 16-35?  Rent a 14 prime? 

2) I don't own a flash (no, I'm not kidding), but I can get my hands on a friend's 430 EX II -- how essential is a flash with landscapes?  In your answer, please consider that I'm only capable of doing rudimentary flash work at this stage (no trick shot / off-camera / radio stuff).  I will learn that someday, I'm sure, but this isn't likely to be that moment.

3) I've never done star trail work but might give it a go one night.  I'll read up on how, settings, etc., but is there any specific gear above what I'm bringing needed to do that?  Is the weight of my bag enough (15-20 lb loaded up), or should I build/buy some heavy stabilizing weights?

4) For those who have been to the GC, assuming the North Rim is closed this time of year, where is the best place on the South Rim to shoot?  I've heard that Lipan Point is a good spot shooting the Colorado from East to West, but I'm game for other great vistas if you know of any.

5) Will I have any flat horizons to use the ND grads against, or will I largely be bracketing for HDR to capture everything I am seeing?  I am opposed to HDR just for HDR's sake, but I recognize that with any bright sky I will have to make some tough exposure decisions.  Depending on my orientation to the sun, a CPL can only do so much to rein in the sky.  Have any thoughts on how to manage this best?


As always, I am in your debt.  Your advice is appreciated to no end.

Thanks,
A

13

Hello all,

I thought I'd give some of the onboard composition features a go on my 5D3.  But I have an odd issue that prevents me from trying one of them.

When I go to Multiple Exposure mode, the camera sort of hangs.  It says "Busy.... Please Wait" and never comes out of that screen.  The red 'busy' LED on the bottom right never stops flickering, so I assumed it was a full card issue.  I have a 50% full 128 GB SD card (which works brilliantly otherwise), and apparently, in Multiple Exposure mode, it needs to access every damn picture, presumably if I want to choose one of those existing shots to be part of an ME composition.

So I put my backup (empty 8GB) card and it snapped right to attention and ME mode was working.  But I still prefer to keep all my shots on one card.  I transfer and backup militantly, but it's much easier to know where my shots are if they're all in one place.

So how I do avoid the ME mode hanging other than routinely cleaning out my card or swapping in an empty one? 

To be fair, this may be a case of me being very stubborn, in that I prefer:

  • To shoot with SD (much easier to share shots with non-photogs, I don't shoot video, etc.)
  • To keep the last 3-6 months of shots on the card despite having already transferred to a computer
  • To not have to swap to another card for ME mode as I'll certainly leave it in there and now have keeper shots on two cards

...so someone may need to tell me that ME mode simply won't fly in that particular environment.  But here's hoping someone else found a solution.   :D

Thx,
A

14
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Tips on shooting hockey?
« on: October 30, 2012, 04:56:04 PM »
Hello Canon folks,

I thought I'd dabble at some sports work.  My friend plays hockey in a local rec league, so I thought I'd give that a go.

It's a small local rink, and I have free access to about 80% of the glass' periphery and can walk right up to the glass.  Also, being a new rink, the glass is nearly perfectly clear (though it does reflect lights).

Here's what I am doing...

Gear:
  • 5D3
  • 24-70 Mk I, 70-200 F/2.8 IS II
  • UV filters only (for front element protection), not using polarizers as I want as much light as possible
  • Not using hoods as the slightly elevated standing space behind the boards is really small and the hood would lean to a risky balancing act as it would push me back three inches from the glass.

Method:
  • Most of the shots are standing behind the glass in the corners of the ice, I can comfortably pan with the 70-200 or zoom out with the 24-70 to see from the entry of the zone to the net without hitting a glass seam.
  • Not using a monopod -- just handholding
  • Using IS mode 1 on the 70-200.  I'm not just panning at guys skating by.  Some guys are coming right at me.
  • I'm generally trying to freeze motion, so I've been in the ISO 1600-3200 range, and F/3.5 or so as both lenses sharpen up when slightly stopped down.  I'm happy to net 1/500s exposures, but would love to shoot more quickly if it didn't generate much noise or drive a softer large aperture.
  • Using level one out of three of high ISO noise reduction.
  • Shooting JPEG only to keep the buffer manageable -- more consecutive shots.
  • AI Servo used, chose mode 4 in the menu system.  Generally using the center point only, but I also use single point off-set right or left to track the puck handler with space in front of them, rule of thirds-style.... sort of.
  • As I am shooting JPEG, I'm using the florescent white balance as that's the lighting in this rink.
  • Pushing EV +1 to get the ice truly white (it's gray at normal exposure) -- this is like shooting snow, right?

Results:
  • I'm seeing a lot of slightly cloudy looking shots.  Levels work can manage some of this, but I'd like to get it right in camera if possible.
  • Much like shooting portraits of someone in front of the ocean, I often mess up and shoot out-of-level with the boards & dasher.  Any tips on this?  Monopod, maybe?
  • Sharpness is good, not great.  Nothing, not even still shots of guys at a faceoff, resembles the razor sharpness I see on a sports website.  Short of stopping down further, what can I do here?

Samples -- see attached / below.

...Now, please tell me what might put me in a better position to succeed! 

Thanks, team.  It's awesome to learn from you all.

- A

15
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Advice for night skyline photography
« on: October 26, 2012, 03:35:09 PM »
Hey gang,

I wasn't sure what forum to put this in, as it's more than just a body topic.

I just had my first go at nighttime city skyline photography. 

Gear I used last night:
   5D3
   Tripod -- Carbon fiber, smaller travel one.  Decently stiff but not heavy.  Weighed down with my bag, perhaps 10 pounds or so
   Arca head + wimberley plate
   24-70 F/2.8L I
   70-200 F/2.8L IS II
   UV filter (B+W, as a lens protector only)
   Didn't use a hood
   Corded shutter release

Shot RAW for everything.  As the camera was hunting a bit for focus, I switched to live view and did a manual focus at 10x view.

As for the glass, I do have primes, but they aren't long enough.  The city was quite far away.  The 70-200 got the lion's share of use last night.

No sunset or sky behind the shots, just a very dark brownish haze of city lighting behind the buildings in question.

My questions are myriad (as usual :P)...

1) See gear and method discussed above.  Pointers / comments welcomed.

2) Does long exposure noise reduction apply to RAW files, or just JPEGs?  If it applies to RAW, how long of an exposure warrants using it?

3) Live view locks up the mirror, right?  I should be fine for managing vibrations with that method, right?

4) What is the appropriate exposure for a far off late night city skyline?  I presume (unless I go the HDR route) that to get the building silhouettes in view on a dark sky, I will blow out the lighting.  But how do I know what to look for in my histograms? 

5) I know that darker scenes merit lower exposures, but am I throwing detail away in that process?  Is there some mad tribal wisdom in not underexposing to get more detail, then adjusting exposure down in RAW processing afterwards?

6) How on earth do I manage windy conditions with long exposures?  Last night, the wind was such that I was stuck with non-ideal settings (1/3 to 1/5 second exposures, ISO 1600, F/7.1, etc,) when I'd ideally like multi-second exposures at a lower ISO.  Is there a tip or trick other than tripod positioning and using my body as a windshield?  (Use smaller lenses?  :D)

As always, your expert guidance is appreciated.

- A

Pages: [1] 2