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Topics - jdramirez

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I've been under the impression that the sensor is shared among the t2i, t3i, t4i, t5i, 60d, and 7d.  Am I wrong?  Yes they are all 18mp and the dimensions are the same in regards to pixel... but I'm hearing otherwise... and I don't want to go on spewing misinformation...

The .jpg file size varies between the t2i and the others... but who shoots in jpg.  Is the raw image basically the same save for that stupid filter the 7D and 60D share (and I don't believe anyone likes). 

That's about it... thanks for setting me on the right path.


This company is paying photogs $20 an hour and you might have to drive as far as 100 miles... But that's neither here nor there. 

I read through the quiz... and I really want there to be write in answers. 

For instance...

If you are photographing a person at 12 Noon in bright sunlight what would you do? *
Use your flash
Over expose 2 stops
Under expose 2 stops
Reduce the ISO on your camera

I'd go with... tell everyone to stare into sun... and I'd shoot from a high angle in time lapse... so you CAN SEE the exact moment when they all go blind.

You are photographing a 5 month old outdoors on the grass. Which would work best? *
Put the baby in a car seat
Put the baby on it's tummy
Shoot from a high angle
Use a fast shutter speed

5 months... my freaking 7 month can't sit up.  I'd ask the mother if her body has snapped back yet and if she has thought of doing nudes... oh yeah.  My concern is the grass... I think if you put a baby on the grass, it is going to poke them and they are going to freak the f out.

But hey... good for them... they are making fat cash off of people.

Canon General / cutting bait on the 24-105???
« on: March 16, 2014, 10:41:47 AM »
I'm quite fond of the 24-105 by Canon.  It was my first L lens so it holds a special place in my heart.

I bought one in December of 2011 for 900 and change, I think... and I used it for a year and then I sold it for  850 give or take. And I bought another for 750.

I'm now mulling over selling the recent one for 700, if I can get that price, and then buying a new one foot around 550.  So basically what I'm doing is just riding the depreciation wave down and minimizing my losses while still using new gear that is basically under warranty.

But... is it worth continuing to do that?  I contend the 25-105 is a solid contributor to my lineup, but it has never been my go-to lens.  Yes there is the tamron which I chose not to acknowledge, and of course the Canon 24-70 f2.8L mkii... but I'm willing to play the 24-105 game until the sigma comes out with the 24-70 f2... if they ever do.  Then... at that point I'll make my decision between the Canon or the sigma...

What to do... what to do.

I coach softball and I'd like to be able to tape games & practice and then send clips to the girls and tell them to do better. 

But I was concerned about leaving my body and lens exposed to foul balls. 

Our guinea pig just died so I was thumping about using his 3'x2'x2' cave to house my camera.

I would get a bendy tripod and attach it to the base of the cage.  Attach the camera, hit record, attach the top of the cage and done.

Am I missing anything here? 

I'm not sure if they sent it to me because I sent back a lens where the box was damaged... but I don't think i'm going to make a purchase from Adorama in the next 2 weeks (claims it expires in 15 days)... so I'd rather it not go to waste and I'd really like to get a little cash back. 

I only have one... so message me... or just respond here..

No biggy either way.

Canon General / So much redundancy...
« on: February 09, 2014, 12:21:18 PM »
So I have officially gone nuts between the 85mm and the 200mm focal range.  I have the 24-105 which in no way shape or form is a true portrait lens... but there is overlap between 85 and 105.  Then I have a very nice 85mm f/1.8 that I'm quite fond of.  I sold my 100mm f/2.8L when I bought my 70-200mm f/2.8L IS mkii... and I missed the minimum focusing distance, and the incredible sharpness that I bought the 100L back... at slightly less than I sold it for... so that's a plus.  Then yesterday I bought a 135L for around $650ish.  And I have the aformentioned 70-200mm.

I have to start getting rid or somethings or my family will start to call the hoarders tv show.  I know the 85mm has to go... and I know the 70-200mm isn't going anywhere....

But that leaves the 100L and the 135L which feel like they are so close in focal length that they are practically the same lens. 

The 24-105 might get upgraded... but I don't spend a ton of time in the wide angle... so having the best lens for that doesn't intrigue me much. 

I'd like the new 50mm sigma art lens that is coming out soon... so I would have my two zooms and a 50mm, a 100mm, and a 135mm.  It still seems redundant.  I just bought back the 100... I don't want to sell it again and I literally just bought the 135... so it is crazy to buy something and then sell it a month later without really experiencing what it can do. 

Is there gear head valium? 

So I was done building my own kit of lenses and body... so I went nuts and bought my 10 year old an Xti and a 18-55.  But I wasn't done... I upgraded her xti to a Sl1 (and it is also my backup if my 5D mkiii fails) and I picked up a 28-135 (because I didn't like her casual attitude with my 24-105).

But I'm not a big fan of the 28-135... I don't like zooms with variable apertures and also the depth of field achieved with the lens.  I'd lean towards a prime, but the 50mm f/1.8 is too toy like, the 50 f/1.4 is a touch costly for a 10 year old and the AF is a touch fragile... so I don't want to do that...

She tends to only manually focus... which I think is awesome... so I could maybe consider a used Sigma 50mm f/1.4... but I would want to use it every now and I'm an AF user... and I have heard that some Sigmas are beyond the 20 +/- AFMA units... and I would HATE eventually selling the lens to anyone and NOT tell them that the AF margin is so off.  Yes I could send it to Sigma... but I'm not excited about that either.

So here's my question and point of the post... I've heard that old FD lenses can still provide remarkable results and can be had for a song and used with an adapter. 

So I throw down $10 for an adapter and $20 for a 50mm F1.8 FD... but I can't find a website that compare the image quality of the lens to the current generation  of lenses.

Normally I'd use a comparison tool like this:


but they don't have the FD lenses to compare. 

So is the FD 50mm lens with an adapter worth the $30?  Is the image quality going to be on par with at least the 50mm f/1.8 mkii? 

Is there another cheap FD lens option with comparable performance of today's lenses?

So it was night... around 1a.m. and I see three deer out in a corn field looking for scraps.  I first tried some photos at iso 6400, aperture f/2.8, 100mm (I didn't have my 70-200mm with me), and while I did have my tripod with me... I didn't want to get out of the car because it would spook the deer.  I'm manually focusing and using IS.  So I tried my best to stabilize myself and snap a few shots with the hope that some were clear (the car was still running so I'm sure that added a little bit of shake).


So I turned around and tried again.  Some awful results.  So I put on my 580 ex ii and I'm manually focusing and I wait for the deer to get blurry and then turn it the other way and I try and find the middle... thinking that they are far enough away that I should have decent depth of field even at f/2.8.


Evidently I was was horribly front focused... and now I'm wondering... did I re focus... I had to... I wouldn't look through the viewfinder and think that this was ok.  So I get out of my car and the deer surprisingly weren't spooked... snap snap snap... and then deer were spooked. 

So... here's my question... is there a technique for shooting in the dark?  the 580 has the IR beams, but at that distance, they didn't do squat...

I didn't really miss a once in a lifetime event... the dear are always hanging out in that field, but still I like to think that after all these years I have enough competency to be able to take a freaking deer photo in the near dark.

So November 28th Adorama had a deal where you get the following:
Canon T3i and 18-55mm, a 75-300mm a 50mm f/1.8 II, a Slinger Photo Video Bag, a SanDisk 16GB Class 10, a USB 2.0 Secure Digital (SD / SDHC) Reader and a Digital Card Case and a Manfrotto Monopod all for the bargain basement price of $659.

It is a meh deal... not awful... not great.  BUT... advertised on the page were the attached images.  Notice that the 50mm would be a CRAZY good deal if they sent the 50mm f/1.2L?  I thought... hey... maybe if they make one screw up, then they might make two.  No... I got the 50mm f/1.8. 

So I sent them Adorama an email on on December 4 and then again on the December 5 which read:

Ya'll sent me a different lens than was pictured.  Mind providing me an explanation?

I didn't get a response... and I think that's what I'm annoyed about.  They could at least do me the courtesy of saying they screwed up and it wouldn't be practical for them to give me a 50mm L, but hey... maybe they try and make it up to me by not ignoring me. 

So... is it my own stupid fault or did Adorama maybe defraud their customers... just a little bit and I do have the right to be annoyed?

I know the argument with full frame v. crop is that you have a larger sensor so the individual sensor "pixels" aren't as close together and that allows for larger pixels and better low light performance.

So if that is true... do you think that with all the in camera processing we have today that anyone would consider a crop sensor that has full frame low light capabilities at 6400 iso?  8mp is still a decent amount of data and would allow for some cropping, though not as much as a 20+ mp sensor in good light.

I think there are too many people who wouldn't be willing to pay $500 for a camera with ONLY 8 mp. 

Canon General / Is this rude or just customer apathy?
« on: October 18, 2013, 11:25:15 PM »
So I get contacted earlier in the week to photograph a flag racing event.  I don't have anything planned so I say yes.  Saturday... check, time... check... they'll send me the details later about where.  The event is weather dependent so I'm not writing IOU's at the strip club and they said they would know by Friday if they were going to cancel for weather.

The email doesn't come... I contact the secretary of the organization and she says, "It will come this afternoon."  It didn't.  I'm still doing my homework... google (learning where the event is and the types of events that are going to be held)... facebook (making sure this is a real organization and not a robbery)... Flickr (getting an idea of what images and what angles are compelling). 

So today I touch base and I'm told they are deliberating on postponing, cancelling, or having the event at another venue.  I request, "Keep me in the loop." 

11:30p.m. as I write and I still haven't received word.  I know it has been cancelled... they indicated so on their Facebook page... but am out really out of line expecting a call, text, email, etc. indicating that it was cancelled? 

So does this happen to anyone else?  Is it the customers who don't want to break bad news?  I'm not that annoyed... I now have a weekend day free to do whatever I want... but I still can't help but be annoyed.

Canon General / How would yall shoot horse flag racing.
« on: October 15, 2013, 11:25:31 PM »
flag race at westeren horse show Small | Large

So I got a job shooting this "sport" this weekend.  The weather is supposed to be reasonably nice, partly cloudy.  I'm not 100% sure that what you see in the video is exactly how the event will go down, but I don't think it is far off either. 

My settings and gear will be as follows:  5D mkiii, 70-200mm f/2.8L Is mkii, Canon 1.4 teleconvertor mkii.  Maybe I'll need to the convertor... maybe not...

When I shoot out in the sun and a cloud passes over head, I will shoot in Aperture priority.  Yes... manual... but I really don't pay that much attention to whether the sun is bright or not... so aperture priority it is.  I was also thinking 640 iso and f/4 with the teleconvertor.  The other day when I was shooting football, my shutter speeds ranged from 1/3000 to 1/6000 give of take... so I think that is a good option at the moment.

However... when I shoot football, I can keep my subject in focus using AI Servo and I don't lose them too often.  But when I am shooting a person and a horse, I don't want a shallow depth of field with the horse in focus and the the person blurred.  I'm not sure the Camera will be able to distinguish which subject I want actually in focus.   Per the depth of field calculator, at f/4, 200mm, and 30ft away, I will have 1.61 feet of depth of field.  I'm guessing, but I think I need at least 4 feet of DOF to definitely get both.  If I shoot at f/8 with the 200/30... then I have 3.2 ft... and I think that might be my best bet.  That will probably mean that I will have to kick the iso up to 2500... but maybe it will be sunny-ish... and I won't have to go that high.

I do plan on doing post in LR4, so I can remove the grain... though I am annoyed I have to. 

Now that that is figured out... where do I position myself.  That circle was crazy boring to look at.  I don't want to see the horses ass and the rider going away... so I was thinking of setting up initially to the left of the subject and getting the start, and then the first and 2nd turn... and I know I won't be able to run back to get the final ramming the stick in position... so... yeah.  Where do I settle and move to.  If they were jumping... ok... side and front... but this is going in a circle.

And I was thinking... oh a low angle shot with me laying on the ground might work... but I not head on because all I would see is the horse... maybe at a side angle.  But I think I will just need to get a step stool and shoot at near eye level to get the shot I want.

I also considered doing a 1/30 of a second pan shot so I can get the motion of the legs and hopefully the person nice and sharp...

So if yall have any suggestions, I'm wiling to hear them.  I'd like to do a shallow depth of field... blurring out the background and the patrons... but that would definitely have to be done at a 20ish degree angle.

Any help is much appreciated... even just talking it out will help me feel more confident on what I want to do at the event.

Lighting / Cheap manual flash to use for fill lighting...
« on: September 19, 2013, 09:24:20 AM »
 so I have been side lighting photos of my infant daughter using a 580 exii,  an umbrella,  and a  yongnuo 622c...  and even though I can't access all the ettl  features immediately (I'm pretty sure it is operator error), I think the shadows from  being side lit aren't exactly what I'm looking for. 

 so I wasn't too get a cheap manual flash that I  can couple with my rouge flash bender  to add some fill flash or maybe even side lit fromtheother side using a wire  that attached to the hot shoe.

I  was  thinking about one of the newer brand flashes for 40  bucks,  but once I nut it it will only be worth twenty bucks if I sell it.  I  hate losing money on gear...  it drives me nuts.   so I was thinking,  maybe I should buy something like a 430 ex ii  which will retain its value,  but 200 v 40   seems like a  bad use of resources. 

I  see really old manual speed lites  on  craigslist,  but the head doesn't articulate backwards...

 so the question is...  what is the right price to pay for a manual flash  that will only be used inside the home for fill light.

Lighting / Finally getting some Eneloops, but will my old charger work?
« on: September 13, 2013, 10:15:16 PM »
So I bought this set of rechargeable batteries last year -


and they worked more than well enough in my 430 ex ii and my 580 ex ii.  But they are finally not holding much of a charge and I know it is time to move into the big leagues with Eneloop. 

I'm cheap... I know it... and while I have a ton of cash invested in gear, if I can save $4 by not having to buy an Eneloop branded recharging station, that is exactly what I will do. 

So will there be a performance drop off?  Will the voltage overheat the batteries and reduce their lifespan?  Should I just bite the bullet and not worry so much about $4? 

Thanks a bunch.

Canon General / I hate photographing my family for posed photos...
« on: September 02, 2013, 10:16:37 PM »
They always look horrible.  The wife has very thin eyes naturally when she smiles, so it looks like they are closed, my daughter likes to bug out her eyes to be funny... and then today we were on a limited time schedule so I really didn't have a chance to review the images... and needless to say... Ughhh...

And then I was asked to have my two and their two cousin do a group photo... I don't see that ending well since the baby may elect to cry... the other will bug out her eyes, the one cousin is completely unruly and if she lived in my house and acted the way she did, she would be disciplined everyday, and the other is physically and mentally handicapped. 

So god help me. 

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