October 21, 2014, 01:57:30 AM

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Topics - jdramirez

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I got a new copy of Light room 5... in a retail box and somehow it found its way into the recycling bin.  Yeah... maybe I shouldn't have left it on the floor until I was ready to install it, but it didn't look like trash.

The person who I'm related to by marriage and lives in my home  is the only one who cleans, so I'm ok with the occasional why is this now missing for the rest of my life... because it is a fair trade off to having to clean.

Maybe I need labels that say, NOT TRASH.

It is used, but it it is in like new condition.  I bought it in a package and I don't need or want it.  Amazon will give me $217 as a trade in... but if y'all want it it's yours.

Software & Accessories / Optimizing your monitor for print production...
« on: September 01, 2014, 01:44:29 AM »
So I just retired my old Dell 20 inch monitor and it did a more than adequate job of recreating the print color and and exposure I received from my printer of choice, Costco. 

I replaced the Dell with a vanity 39" Panasonic tvhttp://www.bestbuy.com/site/panasonic-39-class-38-1-2-diag--led-1080p-120hz-smart-hdtv/3730052.p;jsessionid=4F0EC0247B9821FA3FC38EE9E23ED333.bbolsp-app03-139?id=1219093275246&skuId=3730052&st=39%22%20panasonic%20led&cp=1&lp=2... which I don't expect to use for photo editing.  It is mostly there because I wanted a tv for my bedroom and I like playing really old school video games (Milon's Secret Castle) on a big screen. 

I also picked up a 23" Viewsonic ips screen which I did expect to use for photo editing... I turned down the backlighting a good deal on both, but the color on the panasonic seems better and more accurate than the color on the viewsonic (maybe too little red, and too much green)

So I need to fix it.  I was thinking about having a color wheel or vertical bars of color (no freaking clue what they are called) printed out from costco and then do my damn-dest to match the colors by messing with the settings.

So, since I basically rely on everything I do on ya'lls opinion, does this sound right?  Or is there a better cheap way to set up the monitor.  Ideally, I would like to have both perfect, but I know using a tv is a pipe dream. 

I have had two... the same one actually, but I think I lost the first one... the reason I think I lost the first one is because my house is a Mess with a capital M.  It very well could just be hiding under that pile of dead cats.  :/

It was a Dolica Monpodhttp://www.amazon.com/Dolica-WT-1003-67-Inch-Lightweight-Monopod/dp/B000VZS2EU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408930250&sr=8-1&keywords=dolica+monopod and it served a dual purpose... monopod for me and a walking stick for my daughter.  I'll admit... it was light enough in weight... I could convert it to put a ball head on it (though i didn't like the stability), it was strong enough that it could hold my camera gear and my daughter's weight... and it was less than $20... so perfect for me.

I primarily used it to pan side to side for my daughter's basketball games... so it worked just fine.  The only complaint I had about it is that the rubber grip would slide down and I would have to move it back up.  Small complaint... meh.

I came into a bit of free money for buying and selling some gear in less than week.  So I thought I would go ahead and replace the Dolica that I sold for $10.

So here's my wishlist for the new monopod.  I want something sturdy, well built (preferably with the flip latches), compatible with both heads and bodies (so both types of screws), and this is the sticking point... I want the three feet @ the bottom so it will stand without me holding onto it... and they should be retractable.   

I saw someone else's post... I'm 69" tall, and the heaviest load I would put on is the 5d mkiii and the 70-200mm f/2.8 (at present).

I kinda like this... http://www.adorama.com/SIBSRP204S.htmlbecause of the panning grip and the claw feet... but it doesn't have a head... and I would like a bonus head if I'm spending that much money... it also doesn't have the flip lock...

and I like this http://www.adorama.com/BEA48FBS4.html... flip lock, claw feet, and it does have a head... but that big panning grip is annoying... so I would probably not use the head that often. 

and I guess this is my 3rd option, http://www.adorama.com/BG682B234RC.html but the stick feet look like they wouldn't be ideal to use and the head isn't a ball head... so maybe it will take some getting used to, but it does have the flip locks...

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/434422-REG/Manfrotto_560B_1_560B_1_Fluid_Video_Monopod.html And then there is this one... which has a fluid base for easy panning that is adjustable... and the flip locks... and while it isn't a ball head... it does have a head that's a bonus... and it has the feet I like... but that sansui... it appeals...

So I'm thinking my best best is to get the monopod I like and just buy a separate ball head that I'm fond of... but that's more money and suddenly my bonus free cash is spent and now I'm spending money that I don't want to spend... So I would greatly appreciate if yall can point me in a direction on a monopod yall like and head... ideally in one purchase which would reduce the cost... huff.

I'll have more details later, but it is used but in excellent condition... maybe very good.  I'm not sure what to charge... I normally sell on Amazon... so they take 8%... I think this takes 4%... So let's say $950...

Manufacture code: October 2008
Hood: included
Circular Polarizer filter: included
UV filter: included
Front lens cap: included
Rear lens cap: included
Useless leather bag: included
Original retail box: included

It really isn't that big of a deal.  I was at a AA baseball game and I was using my 5Dmkiii @ iso 3200ish, 1/1250ish, and my 600ex-rt on body.  I was taking photos throughout the game from the stands... literally in my seat and in the 6th inning I'm requested by an employee of the team to kill the flash.  The guy was nice enough and polite enough, so I'm really not complaining about being asked to kill the flash.

I suppose my question is... do yall just kick up the iso and live with the results in lieu of using flash at sporting events?  Considering it is semi-pro... and if 6 o'clock is right behind the catcher, I would say that I was at 7 o'clock... maybe 7:30ish... It just seems like they should be able to deal with the noise and one lone flash... though this is their profession... and if one at bat leads to 5 runs and a significant bump up in their ERA... so they DON'T get the call up to the pro's... so I understand this specific circumstance...

I will say it gave me an opportunity to force myself to shoot at iso 12800 which I never do... so I guess that's a sliver lining.

FOR SALE Photo Equipment / For sale... stuff... all kinds of stuff...
« on: August 07, 2014, 09:38:41 PM »
I do sell lenses and bodies (mostly of the entry level variety) but at present, I only have stuff... I'll post pictures when I meander upstairs.

*New* Sandisk 16 GB SD card, class 10 - $10

*New* Lexar 16 GB SD card, class 10 - $10

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MWBY6W/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1*New* a small SLR bag from Amazon basics - $10

http://www.hhgregg.com/case-logic-slr-camera-case/item/SLRC201*New* small SLR by Case Logic -$10

http://www.adorama.com/PRO58KIT.html*New* Vivitar 58mm filter kit (UV, CPL, ND8) - $10

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1022066-REG/lexar_lcf8gbcrbna800_8gb_pro_compact_flash.htmlUsed Lexar 8GB Compact Flash Memory Card Professional 800x UDMA 7 - $15. I upgraded to a 32GB 1200x card

Used Lexar 16GB SD card, class 10 - $10.

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-2400-SLR-Gadget-Cameras/dp/B0002Y5WZM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407461395&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+slr+bagUsed Canon Branded bag - $10

I'm a fan of bokeh... but when you have a single color backdrop behind your subject... shooting at a thin depth of field just seems like a dangerous game to play.  This is the shot... if only the eyes were in focus. 

Stopping down to f8 solves some of the thin dof issues... and since you can control the lighting, the images won't be under exposed... but then we don't want the images to sharp to show how fugly our subject is...

So I think... 100L for really sharp eyes, but 85 f1.2 for softer blurred skin, but maybe my in home studio isn't that big... so just go for a 35 L...

I make my decisions based on how I feel at the moment... some at f8... some at .11 inches of dof...

I was in a thread about someone going to Africa and the obligatory word of warning was given about theft of gear...

It occurred to me... what about locking or bodies with s code the way we do our phones.  Photographers need immediate access to their gear, so doing so each time it powers up isn't an option... but what about every 24 hours?  In the morning, enter the code and it won't require the code to be entered until the next twenty four hours...

If the body has wifi, you can back up the code to Canon interwebs and if you forget, you can have an email sent to your account.

Would this deter theft at all... certainly might deter resale value... to get the camera working again, a thief would have to connect it to the computer and re flash the firmware to the device... which might be too much work for a thief.

I guess they could sell it for parts.. Huh...

Pricewatch Deals / Searching for a lightroom 5 deal...
« on: July 13, 2014, 11:43:03 AM »
I was content with using lightroom 5... and then my desktop computer decides to commit suicide... thought it might have been auto erotic asphyxiation considering the materials on the hard drive... but I digress. 

If yall come across any decent deals with LR6 as an add-on or on just the software alone... I'd be very interested. 

I'm sure this goes without saying for most people, but I'm not interested in the Creative Cloud.

Also, when you buy the software... you can get a multi-use registration code... because I would want one for my laptop and for my desktop's successor.

I volunteered to take our team photo for softball and some individual portraits. 

The problem is that we are going to get to the field around 7:30ish... warm up and play a game @ 8a.m.  We should be done around 9a.m., but it is a tournament so there is a chance that we will have a game from 9a.m. to 10a.m. give or take. 

So I'm preparing for a break sometime between 9a.m. and 11a.m., and for obvious reasons I'd rather not take either team or individual portraits @ Noon. 

The weather report is spotty... it will either be cloudy (score), partly cloudy (score), or sunny as all hell (dee-daw). 

So I'm preparing for the worse... which is sunny as hell... which means I need some fill light I was stupid the last time I was in this situation... I shot at f/2.8 and 1/200th of a second... and no surprise, the photo was incredibly over exposed. 

So this time... I presume I'll use hss and ettl, and maybe twin satellite flash bounced off of an umbrella. 

The problem I'm having... or at least think I have is that when I shoot in full daylight @ f2.8, I wound up shooting at around 1/6000 to 1/8000th of a second. 

Sure the problem can be resolved by going under some shade, but I want to take the individual shots on a field so the field is a pleasing background.  So maybe having a tent might work... but that's too much effort.

So am I over thinking it?  Or should I just pray for clouds and also winning enough times that I can take the images in the golden hour... though in that regard, I wouldn't hold my breath.

I must be going a little nuts... I'm looking at 200-400's, 300/400 f/2.8's... and I'm seeing the price tag... and I thinking... "That's not bad." 

I remember fondly when I spend $100 on a 50mm f/1.8 and I thought that was a lot of money... I'm off to bed... this bug will surely pass before I wake.

Well, $15 net.  I might have to downgrade my celebration with some Natty Light and annoying the wife...

But what is nice is that the print I sold was for some pro bono work I do for shits and giggs... So I am actually pleased, but the print isn't one of my best... So I'm almost annoyed that less than stellar work is going to hang on someone's wall.

Canon General / Reach and the inverted bell curve
« on: June 10, 2014, 12:30:08 AM »
I was thinking about this the other day and I thought I would go ahead and write it down just in case I feel like referencing it one day.  For the purposes of pricing, I'm using figures below retail... maybe there is a sale... maybe a rebate... but I could never image paying full price on anything.  Also, I'm not considering the price of the bodies... since there are some cheap crop and full frame options... I'll leave the ratios respective of the lens and the sensor type.

My first set of lenses were the kit, 18-55, and the much maligned (and deservedly so) 75-300mm.  On my XS, a crop body, that gave me an effective reach for 480mm give or take.  @ the bargain basement price of $100, I got a whole 4.8mm per dollar... oh... and all the blurry photos I wanted.  It was a buffet of blur...

Then I elected to give up some reach in favor of the Canon 55-250mm IS.  The images were better... variable aperture doesn't really come into play with this discussion, but all in all it was a solid lens.  Again, on a crop body, my reach was 400mm give or take.  @ the time, the lens cost around $170, so the mm/$ ratio is 2.35mm/$. MM's are starting to get expensive in this game of reach.

Eventually I upgraded my body to another crop body... so it is a push.  But then I kept pushing the image quality barrier... and low and behold, a 70-200mm f/4L USM shows up @ my door.  Now I'm at 320mm and a ratio of .533mm/$.  Outrageous.  I then played the game of climb the ladder with the 70-200's and while my reach wasn't changed, my ratio went from .533 to .246 to finally .145mm/$. 

Then I upgrade from crop to full frame bring my reach to a paltry 200mm and a ratio of .0909mm/$. 

Here's where things started to go the other direction... Losing all that reach either compels you to buy a new lens, maybe a fast prime... or in my case I bought a teleconvertor, 1.4x.  Now I'm rocking 280mm and a ratio of .107mm/$.  The reach is increasing an amazingly so is the ratio.  I personally don't have a 2x teleconvertor... but if I did, then we are at 400mm and .154mm/$.

So what's the moral... I think it is simple.  Reach is cheap in the beginning... but when you come out the other end you'll have to pay dearly for it.

It is a tale as old as time.  I transferred images from one event to my hard drive... looks as though they all moved over, but no.... I eclipsed 9999 images which means it saved the last part of the event to another folder... which I didn't transfer over.  And I formatted in camera the next day... but I don't think it was a complete format, so I can salvage most of the lost images.

Honestly, it isn't a big deal... it was just the last game of my daughter's softball season... and I have five of the six innings documented so no one will notice... but that was just dumb.

And I can only imagine if I lost a client's images... so I bare my incompetent soul to y'all... because when people say I should be a photographer full time, I know the reasons why they are wrong. 

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