May 19, 2013, 01:07:39 PM

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Messages - Jamesy

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1
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: What size Softbox
« on: April 09, 2013, 06:58:32 AM »
OP: Gary Fongs tend to be inefficient as they spray light n all directions. The 24x24 softbox you linked is more efficient as it propels light forward and not lost behind the box. It has the added benefit of not contributing flare to your lens if it is in front of your camera position (any light source coming into your lens will create flare but that is another story).

Enjoy and post some pics when you get it!

2
I have an aluminium Benro A-058-M8. This is their 0-series classic travel tripod. I also have a Gitzo 1542T.

From the build quality point of view Benro is really nice. The twist locks are smooth and lock positively. The metal parts are also high quality. For the amount of money I paid (around $80 about three years ago) it is an absolute bargain. That being said the Gitzo is slightly better in all aspects, but with a steep price. Bottom line is if you have the money or are in need of the best tested tripods in the world, go for the Gitzo or RRS. If you are on a budget, the Benro's will give you 90% of what the more expensive brands will, at around 1/2 or less of the price.
I have a Gitzo 2531 with a MArkins M10 and RRS clamp and then I bought a Benro 1681 Travel Angel for a trip to Europe and I must concur with all of the comments above - I am very impressed with the tripod. I paid $300 on eBay. I have no experience with Sirui...

3
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Light Meter & SpeedLites
« on: April 08, 2013, 10:25:28 PM »
Thank you all, you've been a tremendous help, I'm going again Saturday with ND Filter in hand. Would the Tiffen 77VND 77MM VARIABLE ND FILTER be a good choice?
I just re-read your original post and if you did not have enough power last time and the only thing you change is adding an ND filter then you won't have enough power adding an ND - you would need more power to overcome the stops of light you would loose with the ND filter.

Is it possible to get your lights closer to your subject?

I cannot comment on the quality of a Tiffen Vari-ND. I know the Stingray's are good but they are very expensive.

4
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Light Meter & SpeedLites
« on: April 08, 2013, 01:35:56 PM »
Regarding ND filters, do you need to use "circular" ND filters or can you use rectangular filters such a lee filters...
I have lee filters for landscape, but I am wondering if it is a good idear to use them for a portrait shoot...
thanks for the advices
I believe an ND filter is an ND filter - it cuts doen the light coming into the lens. The square system is merely films that drop into the square holder. I have only ever used a cheap eBay variable ND filter that screws on the lens - I have heard the Lee filters are high end for architectural use but I see no reason they could not be used for a portrait.

5
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Light Meter & SpeedLites
« on: April 08, 2013, 01:29:39 PM »
ambient."[/b] when we are already talking about max sync you are implying use of HSS and guarantees you will run out of power sooner, that is not the best way to continue darkening ambient, closing aperture and upping flash power is.
I never implied HSS or ETTL, pure manual all the way. I agree with you if you are at the base camera ISO of say 100 and max sync then the only other thing to do to kill ambient is stop down the aperture and/or increase flash power. My point is, full sun, midday you may run out of gas in those tiny strobes.

OP: I still feel anyone playing with manual strobes would benefit form a light meter. I have a Sekonic L-358 - very helpful tool to quickly establish your ambient/flash exposure mix.

6
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Light Meter & SpeedLites
« on: April 08, 2013, 01:12:02 PM »
OP: Here is a useful article on balancing ambient with flash outdoors: http://strobist.blogspot.ca/2006/03/lighting-101-balancing-flash-and.html

To your earlier question, a lightmeter is a very useful piece of equipment to own if you intend to do manual flash photography. If you are only planning on doing ETTL flash then they are are pretty much useless to you. I bought one for a workshop I did a couple of years ago where it was a course requirement and love not having to guesstimate the exposure.

7
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Light Meter & SpeedLites
« on: April 08, 2013, 12:49:27 PM »

If you want  a darker background and are at sync speed, close your aperture one stop and increase flash power one stop and the subject is the same brightness and the ambient is one stop darker. If you are at sub sync speed sure leave everything else the same and just shorten shutterspeed, but that wasn't what I was talking about. The most efficient way to underexpose ambient, as a starting point, is sync speed and base iso.

The OP is using underpowered strobes for the job. Full sun, midday, is not the ideal scenario for a 568EX and 430EXII. At base ISO (100) and max sync speed of 160/180 on the 6D, the option of stopping down to say F8 or F11 would require more power than those little lights can put out. This is why David Hobby loves the Nikon D70 as it has a max sync of 1/500. I think some Canon 1d series have that too.

You can also use an ND filter on your camera but again it requires the light to work really hard to over power the sun.

8
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Light Meter & SpeedLites
« on: April 08, 2013, 11:24:11 AM »
To kill the ambient you need a higher sync speed. Aperture controls flash and shutter controls ambient.

You are shooting a 6D which has a max shutter speed of 1/180 but the only way to obtain that is to set the camera up in half stops rather than third stops other wise the fastest sync you can get is 1/160.

That said, 1/180 in full sun, ISO100 still requires likely more power than you have in a 568EX and 430EXII. HSS drops the power output of your strobes considerably. Try to look for shade of scrim your subject from full sun.

9
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Eneloops and charger
« on: March 26, 2013, 12:51:52 PM »
Alkaline's typically have 1.5v of voltage and rechargeable's have 1.2v. Voltage on its own does not tell you how much charge (Juice or mAh) remain in a cell - the only way to accurately determine this today is to discharge the cell, like the MAHA C-9000 does in the Refresh/Analyze or Breakin cycles.

Alkalines tend to hold voltage near 1.5v and then suddenly drop off whereas rechargeables will drop-off gradually.


BTW, you should always keep your cells together in sets of two or four, depending on your use and make sure whatever charger you use, it is capable of doing single cell charges.


hmm i could have sworn it was the otherway round, rechargeables keep the power then suddenly drop and alkies start dropping power as they are used, straight away.

Also my eneloops are showing 1.4v and 1.47v instantaneous battery voltage

I would keep cells together, but i have devices that need 1, 2, 3 and 4 batteries.


I was basing my thoughts on this post by Flash Havoc on the YN-622-c's which I mis-interupted voltage drop for starting voltage levels:
http://flashhavoc.com/yn622c_review/ (near the end):
"...like many TTL triggers the YN-622C are sensitive to battery voltage, that is why we use good alkaline when possible (Energizer/Duracell) and not rechargeable. That is because alkaline have a considerably higher voltage to start with, the rechargeable NiMH are already close to the YN-622 cut off voltage when fully charged."

All my Eneloops are routinely in the 1.4 to 1.147 range - this is normal.

Most of my sets runs flashes or triggers is sets of two or four. For single cell use like mice and remotes I tend to use different sets of Eneloops or Duraloops and this is where a charger such as the MAHA C-9000 charges single cells. Cheaper chargers will charge in pairs or worst four cells at the same time - all the cells will get the same amount of charge whether they are full or not.

10
This link might help you out. In the bottom left of the chart it states the average peak aperture of each lens/camera body combo.

http://www.reikan.co.uk/focalweb/index.php/online-tools/lenscamera-information/

Thanks for the link. Most of my lens are within range per the chart listed in this link. In some cases the Reikan aperture test showed my lenses as being better at wider apertures such as 5D3/70-200F4IS, mine is sharpest at 4.5 and the majority of people it is 6.3.

BTW, The Reikan Focal Pro is one of the best investments I have EVER made in my gear kit. It does what I would have a very hard time doing manually. It has changed the way I shoot - if aperture does not matter as much but sharpness does, I find myself selecting the Reikan defined sharpest aperture for the shot.

I also, incorrectly, thought that most lenses were sharpest around F8 - the Reikan sharpness tests showed me that is not the case - the sharpest areas in my limited testing seems to be in the widest 25% of F-stops.

11
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Eneloops and charger
« on: March 26, 2013, 12:20:47 PM »
Alkaline's typically have 1.5v of voltage and rechargeable's have 1.2v. Voltage on its own does not tell you how much charge (Juice or mAh) remain in a cell - the only way to accurately determine this today is to discharge the cell, like the MAHA C-9000 does in the Refresh/Analyze or Breakin cycles.

Alkalines tend to hold voltage near 1.5v and then suddenly drop off whereas rechargeables will drop-off gradually.

BTW, you should always keep your cells together in sets of two or four, depending on your use and make sure whatever charger you use, it is capable of doing single cell charges.



12
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Eneloops and charger
« on: March 26, 2013, 10:56:26 AM »
I have a PowerEx MH-C9000, the best charger you can get, IMHO and it charges by default at 1000MaH which for Eneloops is .5C (half of the rated 2000/1900) rating. When I charge a set of batteries the charger reports how much energy it stuffed into the cell - it has no means to determine how much energy is stored in the cell without performing a Refresh/Analyze or Break-in.

The Breakin cycle charges at .1C for 16 hours, discharges and reports what was stored in the cell and then charges again for 16 hours at .1C. This is recommended once a year or so. I always do this to new cells and routinely get the rated capacity reported or greater.

Here is a useful thread on charge rates for batteries:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?149804-Eneloop-Self-Discharge-study&p=2293058&viewfull=1#post2293058

13
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: need advise on what speedlite?
« on: March 21, 2013, 06:20:17 PM »
I use Phottix Stratos II for my remotes lights because I don't need the TTL functionality.  I love the Stratos -- great range and very reliable.
I have heard great things about the Stratto's and they are also compatible with the Odin's - nice touch. Had the 622's not come out I may very well have jumped on them.

14
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: need advise on what speedlite?
« on: March 21, 2013, 06:43:19 AM »

BTW, the 622c is an excellent trigger - amazing really when you consider the price.  I was using a Pixel branded trigger before, and couldn't get a shutter sync faster than 1/125th (on my 5D3).  With the 622c I can sync at 1/200th easily and with HSS have shot at 1/2000th.
Thanks for your input.

I too get super clean frames on my 5D3/622C combo at 1/200 and shot a HSS shoot at 1/4000 and never missed a frame with 400+ exposures. They just work...

15
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: need advise on what speedlite?
« on: March 20, 2013, 08:21:44 PM »
@ Chris Burch - thanks for the explanation - my 580exII's have an auto-off that I disabled some time ago and I have never had an issue with them powering off - a 580exII has a physical on/off switch and Canon do not allow functions that contradict lever/button positions. The YN's have push buttons so it makes sense that they can change the state over a period of time.

For the most part 30-60 minutes before they tank should not be an issue for me. I am considering two 568ex's but may also take a look at the YN-560II's because I already have a couple of TTL flashes.

Do you use the 560's with 622c's? That would be my setup.

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