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Messages - cid

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1
Software & Accessories / Re: lee system
« on: January 28, 2015, 10:16:12 AM »
Hi Nancy.
Very valid point, but I would like to say that if you are faced with both situations and only have the budget for one set of grads, the soft grads will (IMHO) work better on water than the hard grads on the rolling hills with forest scenario.

Cheers, Graham.


Hi Graham,

I think this depends a lot on when you are photographing. I spend a lot of time photographing at the coast (it is my back yard) and cannot recall ever using a soft grad;  with low sun soft grads give me very little benefit because the transition is too gradual to help with brightest area, which is often close to the horizon,  particularly at sunrise/sunset (even here in the frozen north of the UK the sun does occasionally penetrate). I occasionally use the soft grad when photographing mountains, but I find I often don't need a grad because the contrast is not as extreme.

for my needs are soft grads preferable - as far as I know there is no see within 600km from where I live, but there is lot of great mountains  8)

2
Software & Accessories / Re: lee system
« on: January 28, 2015, 10:13:13 AM »
Note: If you want to use a polarizer AND a ND grad or other square/rectangular filter, you should get the 105mm front-threaded Lee filter adapter ring and a 105mm polarizer, or skip the 105mm adapter and use a 4 x 4 polarizer filter. DO NOT put your 77 or 82mm polarizer on your lens and then use a wide angle adapter to screw onto the front thread of the polarizer filter. Reason is that the WA adapters are recessed, and the front half of the polarizer disappears into that recess and you can't grip it to separate the CPL from the adapter. You try to unscrew the WA adapter, and the front half of the polarizer moves. No, I haven't done this. Yes, I have talked with some people that have made this mistake. Also, my filter shop, www.2filter.com, reports having customers report this problem.

Re: Soft vs. Hard grads - It depends on your scenery. Water: abrupt flat transition from sky to earth = hard grad.
Rolling hills with forest: irregular transition from sky to earth = soft grad. I have the second case, here in the middle of the continent.

thank you for valueable info, I will remember this  :o

3
Software & Accessories / Re: lee system
« on: January 28, 2015, 10:11:10 AM »
I have a Hahnel Giga T II Pro remote that hasn't let me down so far.  Though to be honest, since installing Magic Lantern with its intervalometer and programmable bulb, I've used it a lot less.

I have one as well, and ML isn't an option for me.  I did learn that when the hähnel transmitter's little coin cell battery gets low on power, it can do everything except actually send a signal – the display works, the little light turns green when you press the button, but the shutter doesn't fire.  It still works as a wired remote in that case, though (and a new battery fixed the issue). 

so this receiver does not work well at all when battery is drained or it does not work well, when battery is drained AND ML installed on camera?

The issue was the battery – I've found that most electronic items don't work well when the battery is drained.  ;)

Conversely, my Lee filters work just fine without batteries.  :)

ML isn't an option for me because it doesn't (and won't) exist for the 1D X.

indeed  ;) I was just curious if there are some specific problems with this device and batteries

4
Software & Accessories / Re: lee system
« on: January 26, 2015, 09:40:15 AM »
I have a Hahnel Giga T II Pro remote that hasn't let me down so far.  Though to be honest, since installing Magic Lantern with its intervalometer and programmable bulb, I've used it a lot less.

I have one as well, and ML isn't an option for me.  I did learn that when the hähnel transmitter's little coin cell battery gets low on power, it can do everything except actually send a signal – the display works, the little light turns green when you press the button, but the shutter doesn't fire.  It still works as a wired remote in that case, though (and a new battery fixed the issue). 

so this receiver does not work well at all when battery is drained or it does not work well, when battery is drained AND ML installed on camera?

5
Software & Accessories / Re: lee system
« on: January 25, 2015, 04:41:17 PM »
thank you for info, I wasn't sure about the adapter rings

6
Software & Accessories / lee system
« on: January 25, 2015, 02:43:35 PM »
Hi,

after I successfully ruined my 5 stop ND filter in Thailand, I started looking for replacement. One of the options is Lee system with big stopper, since I wanted more than 5 stop filter. I'm aware of all the advantages, what I'm not sure is what exactly do I need to make big stopper and maybe some grad ND work with my 16-35 f/4 and 24-70 f/2.8 II?

And since we are talking long exposures some nice, usefull, reliable remote advices are welcome too  ;)

7
if it was out a bit sooner I might consider it for my uwa, but I already bought 16-35 f/4 ...

8
Lenses / Re: wide angle needed
« on: January 13, 2015, 01:58:12 AM »
I think we are all making the bold assumption that you are shooting with a Full Frame camera based on your signature line.  But I think everyone agrees that it will be hard to beat the 16-35 f/4L as the primary ultrawide lens to fill your needs.

Oh, I didn't mention it? Yes I'm shooting FF :) Yes 16-35 will be hard to beat, but time will show ...

9
Lenses / Re: wide angle needed
« on: January 12, 2015, 04:50:58 PM »
So finally,
it took me some time (ok, hell lot of time), but right now I'm smiling on my shiny new 16-35 f/4

Thank you all guys for advices beyond great. From this spot I can say it will be my lens for hiking - light, versatile, wide enough.  :)

10
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Is there any reason to shoot sRGB????
« on: November 25, 2014, 04:48:04 PM »
If you photograph in RAW and obviously post-process, then the colour space setting in the camera is irrelevant.

Not quite:
1. the histogram is based on this setting, with adobe rgb you get a better representation
2. in every cr2 there's a full jpeg thumbnail with the color space selected.


very interesting, thank for info  :o

When an sRGB device encounters another colour space, it will usually convert said other colour space to sRGB. Conversion is never 100% successful.

Ugh? How so?

he probably didn't mean conversion, but displaying Adobe RGB image in sRGB color space, to which some web pages are prone and then colors are shifted

11
Photography Technique / Re: uneven polarization
« on: November 09, 2014, 04:47:01 PM »
It's to do with the angle your camera is pointing with respect to the sun. Maximum polarisation occurs when your camera is aimed at a perpendicular angle to the sun.

Here's a link for you:

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/polarizing-filters.htm

thank you for sharing link, it's great page and I went trough it already

12
Photography Technique / Re: uneven polarization
« on: November 09, 2014, 04:42:40 PM »
You need to provide more than just general information to get a intelligent answer. 
 
What brand polarizer, sample photos, camera used, lens used, settings, etc.  Don't forget that the best brands are also big targets for counterfeiters, and there are a ton of B+W counterfeits out there that often have issues.  Its easy money for those who make them.

Gear I used is 5D mk III + 24-70 and 70-200 (in my signature  ;) ), both with BW kaesemann filter.

Both filters are genuine, I do not worry about this, both were bought from authorized dealer and also had hologram on case.

Basically is doesn't surprise me to see this effect when I'm using 24-70, it's quite wide on FF and I try to be carefull when using this lens with polarizer. More I was surprised to see this effect when I used my 70-200 with polarizer. Maybe relevant information is, it was in mountains when I noticed it(2000m+)

What I would like to know is how to prevent this situation of uneven polarization with longer lens?
How to solve this issue? Sometimes the reflection has to be cut with polarizer or colors need a little boost, but sky is then uneven ... do you take more shots? Or do you take a shot with and without polarizer to solve it?


I'm sorry not to upload any photos, if it's necessary I'll add them later (I'm not on my main computer right now)

13
Software & Accessories / my first zeiss glass
« on: November 09, 2014, 10:04:54 AM »
hope you don't mind this post, but I'm simply too happy about it not to mention

recently I bought myself a present for my B-day
however it's not a lens, but binoculars from zeiss  :)
to be precise this one
zeiss conquest hd 8x42

I posted it accesories thread since it was meant for wildlife spotting, I'm really happy with build and also optical quality and I highly recommend it to anyone who's in need for something similar. I tried it also in sunset and in really dark conditions and resolution and clarity is simply superb.

From now on I am happy zeiss customer  ;) :)

14
Photography Technique / uneven polarization
« on: November 09, 2014, 09:55:44 AM »
Hi guys,
on my last trips to mountains I encountered some uneven polarization effect. I was wondering, is there any way how to use polarizer and prevent from this effect? Or do you merge more shots to handle it in post processing?

I have heard many opinions that this effect should be more visible with focal length of 24mm and shorter, but I've seen it in some of my shots with FL longer then 70mm (even in some 200mm shots), am I doing something wrong?

15
EOS Bodies / Re: what is the body you want to see canon release next ?
« on: November 02, 2014, 04:30:44 PM »
I voted for 1DXII

I probably won't be able to afford it, but if Canon brings some new, overhyped tech, then it will be in 1 series body. After then we can hope some high resolution sensor with tons of DR or whatever upgrade will go to lower models.

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