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Messages - BumpyMunky

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Software & Accessories / Re: Photo head on video sticks
« on: May 11, 2014, 02:36:38 AM »
I believe what you're looking for is called a "half ball adapter".

Something like this:

should do what you need.

Technical Support / Re: 20D strange shot limit?
« on: May 09, 2014, 01:43:51 AM »
Any chance you have the auto power-off setting enabled?   Maybe the 20d doesn't see the remote the same as a button press?


Does the slow start up time after sleep go away after you remove the ML from the camera?

I'd heard that was a problem with the former version on the 5D3….that it set the boot flag perm. and long sleep times wouldn't go away even when ML was removed.

I know on this they say the boot flag situation is fixed, but wondering if sleep/boot times return to normal once you remove ML?

Thanks in advance,

My experience and testing with magiclantern-Nightly.2014Mar17.5D3123 (boot from the SD card, but images to the CF) showed about an extra second on cold startup (2.1 sec vs 1.2 sec) and about the same from an auto poweroff wake up.  For testing, I had AF and IS off, Manual, 1/500 shutter and pointing and prefocused at a timer.  Powered off the camera, held the shutter button and started the timer at the same time as turning on the camera.  Pretty acceptable in my book.   Most of the time, that's way faster than I am.  Hitting a button as I bring the camera up and it's ready by the time I'm looking through it.  The delay goes away if I pulled the SD card.    Prior to that version I was using the alpha3 and just booting it manually that took 5-10 seconds with the button pushing.  A bit of a pain, but workable.  Having it auto-boot now is just great!

Also, testing it with a non-ML SD card was the same as a pulled card -- no delay.  I expected this to hang the camera, but maybe that's only if the card was marked 'bootable' and non-ML that does that.

So far I'm pretty impressed by this version.  There are some rough edges which I get since it's listed as 'bleeding edge', but even for that, it seems pretty workable.   Not going crazy with the settings yet, but I'm comfortable with it shooting gigs.  The HDMI mirroring and external monitor support (from both 1.2.3 and ML) is such an improvement over alpha3!

i still shoot single shot 99% of the time on the 5Dmk3 and use the Dof preview button to engage servo on demand IMO this is the most awesome feature of the 5Dmk3


When I initially went through the customization of buttons, I went a bit cross-eyed at the options here, and hadn't revisited it since.   I had my DoF button set to the flash modelling light (which turns out I don't really use, except accidentally), but setting it to toggle ONESHOT/SERVO is exactly what I need.   I typically shoot one shot, but having this on a dedicated button will make certain situations for me soo much faster!   The first 'awesome feature' for me was assigning ISO to the rear dial (SET) button so the main dial (top) adjusts ISO -- speedy speedy.

Thanks again!

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Filming newbie
« on: March 14, 2014, 08:02:32 PM »
I knew it was possible to take stills while filming, but if it screws up the shoot, what's the point? Is there anyway of repairing this, or at the least disabling this feature so i don't do it again? What did i do wrong, and how can i avoid it in the future.

You don't mention a 5d mk III, but your sig does, so I gather that's what you're filming with.

Page 244 of the manual shows the settings for Shooting (Camera icon) menu 5 and the "Movie shooting button" settings.  This sets the shutter to start/stop movies when in movie mode.  It prevents stills while shooting video.   That's how I have mine set up.   With that setup, it also allows most remote triggers to control video start/stop.

As others have said, I typically get the "Nice camera!" comments, to which I respond "Thanks".  Usually that only happens when I have a white lens on.  If a shooter shows a genuine interest and I have the time, I have no trouble talking the why's and wherefore's of my kit.  I usually get some insight on their choices as well.

I had a memorable moment at a music festival I shoot.  I saw a photog toting a DSLR with a large black tele (think 300mm 2.8 esque) through the crowd.  I was shooting with my wide angle at the time, so I mentioned "Brought the cannon out, hey?", doing my part in small talk.   His response, which I doubt I'll ever forget was, "It's not a Canon, it's a Nikon!".   Took me a second to see my unintended pun, and I'm not sure he took it as such and was clarifying, or just thinking he was one-upping me.  I wasn't interested in starting a gear debate, so left it at that.  I thought it was pretty funny nonetheless.   

If I see someone I'd like to chat with, I make sure they're in an idle mode before I approach them, out of respect.

Site Information / Re: CR wobbly
« on: June 17, 2013, 11:05:53 AM »
I wonder if it's location based (country/city/ISP), as it seems to affect certain users quite a bit and others (me) not at all.  The only evidence I've seen are in the posts in this thread.  Issues seem browser agnostic too.   I'm here pretty much every day on iPad/iPhone ios6 using Safari and windows 7 or mac 10.6.8 using Firefox.

I guess the admins can see some of that.    To the admins: is there something those following this issue (ones with problems and without) could provide to help narrow the cause?

Canon General / Re: Confused about this censor size info
« on: May 18, 2013, 10:36:07 AM »
I suspect it is a typo, as it should be 35mm.

Site Information / Re: Minimum CR Forum IQ?
« on: April 11, 2013, 10:57:07 AM »
At the risk of having this thread suffer the same fate,  I suggest 2.8 is the number you seek.

Seriously though,   I thought that other thread was amusing.   Maybe there is room for a "Humour" section threads like that could be moved to.   I for one feel some other current threads are more worthy of being locked than that one was...

Site Information / Re: Love or Hate Canon Rumors Forum
« on: April 05, 2013, 03:59:55 PM »
It would be nice to have a ignore user "XX" function, but we don't have it.
Not sure if this what you're looking for, but I've done this on occasion:
Go to your profile:;area=account
Hover over "Modify Profile", click on "Buddies/Ignore List", click "Edit Ignore List".  Add the username of the person you wish to ignore.
Also, you'll need to have the "Modify Profile -> Look and Layout" checkbox for Hide messages posted by members on my ignore list checked. 

When you read a thread that has posts from those users, a placeholder link shows instead of each post, so you can still see the content if you really want to.

Is there a way to start at the beginning of a thread, instead of the end?  thanks
From a specific message, I don't think so, but on the bottom left of every page, you can click the Page 1 link.  Also, at the top, in the "path"  (eg: canon rumors FORUM » Canon Rumors General » Site Information ), if you click on the subject, that'll go to page one as well.

From the list of topics, clicking the subject itself displays the topic from the beginning.   What I usually do is click the "NEW" button, and if I haven't read any messages from that thread I get the beginning, and if I have read some, it goes to where I last read that thread.

Hope that helps.

EOS Bodies / Re: Lost and Found - Not an April's Fool joke
« on: April 02, 2013, 02:34:22 AM »
I remember reading somewhere about a Rebel being found by divers on the ocean floor, not in any housing, and the card could still be read. They traced the owner from the pics and returned the camera - all be it a rather damaged camera !

Turned out the owner had dropped it from a boat

This one:

Canon General / Re: Which eye do you shoot with?
« on: March 15, 2013, 04:07:28 AM »
Right eye in VF, but both eyes open.

Right handed.  Golf, baseball, tennis right handed, but hockey left handed.  Mostly with both eyes open too.

Hey cayenne,

I just made myself a smallish (2m x 3m) one for playing with.  It was from a fabirc store and the fabric type is called 'theatrical broadcloth'.  It's pretty light and usually used in theaters (hence the name).   Comes in many many colours.    They had a few shades of green, so I used an iPhone app called ColorAssist which reports real-time RGB values to find the shade with the strongest 'mostly green' value.  Clearly light can have an effect on the hue, so I also used the phone's LED and a flashlight I brought with to compare.   Hadn't tried, but I gather taking a DLSR image of the same and checking the RGB histo could be a substitute (large green, small blue/red).    The fabric came in 1m wide rolls (was like $3/m), so I bought 6m x 1m, and sewed it together to make 2x3m   If you can find it the width you need without needing a seam, that'd be best.   I rolled it onto a cardboard tube from the fabric store for storage.  $20 and about an 30 minutes messing with a sewing machine.

I considered making a backdrop stand, but found the Manfrotto 314B kit to be worthwhile.  I just slide the cardboard tube onto the crossbar, and I'm set.   I could have made one cheaper, but the background stand uses standard light stands I can use separately, and it collapses very compactly, something a (at least my) DIY wouldn't have done nearly as well.

I did peruse the interweebs looking for info like you did, and mostly came up with muslin dying instructions and flimsy PVC stands or mondo 2x4 versions, hence the non-DIY stand.    Commercial green-screen drops weren't cost effective to me, but the stand was.

With my initial quick testing (no production shooting yet), I could key it out quite well.    Keep in mind the colour only matters in that it should be a colour that isn't part of the scene in front.   Green is typically used as it is considered an 'unnatural' and unlikely colour (at least for people) , but if you're shooting a subject that actually has that colour (or close to it), a different (the farthest complementary) hue 'chroma key' backdrop would work better, as long as it's bright and saturated.  I use Final Cut, and it has a 'chroma key' filter.   All I do is dropper the background (to select the colour) , and mess with the width and saturation sliders, and poof -- no more background.   The more evenly you can hang it, and more evenly you can light it, the easier and more selective you can make your key filter -- reduces the chance that you'll accidentally key out part of your subject.

Reviews / Re: Review - Canon EF 85 f/1.2L II
« on: March 06, 2013, 03:34:55 PM »

The great white lenses are robust enough to be used as a club, if you think that's a more proper response.  Just sayin'...

Thanks for the genuine LOL  ;D

EOS Bodies / Re: Bodies and cell towers?
« on: February 27, 2013, 03:47:17 PM »

Not exactly a cell tower, but I worked at a Naval Base where a frigate (naval ship) came in with its tactical radar accidentally left on.   Played havoc with the tech in the offices and fried a number of computers.    That being said, the classified servers in the "Tempest" room (basically a Faraday cage) right next to where I sat went unscathed.  Lost touch with those working there, so no idea if there were lasting effects on the humans.  I seem to be <twitch> ok. ;)

As others have said, the frequency as well as the power have a large impact on how it affects different things.  Better to err on the side of caution on this one.

(BTW, tinfoil hats can sometimes form the shape of a parabola, so careful where you stick your head while wearing one...)

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