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Messages - nubu

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1
Have contacted Canon now and they said that - on my own risk - it is possible to remove it by strong pulling it straight out without bending -> and it worked!!!!  Did not try to put it in again but it was not damaged...

2
To only turn only is not really an option since it does not save space. I really would like to fully remove them without cutting the rubber. If nobody knows an easy way I will have to call the canon service ...

3
Because I have the attach several cables under an L-bracked on a eos 5DII and 5DIII I wonder if I could remove the rubber terminal covers in a nondestructive way (to cut the rubber connectors would be easy) in order to save space...

Thanks for your input!

4
Lenses / Re: Lens dilemma for night sky
« on: November 20, 2013, 08:46:05 AM »
Sorry I forgot to make a note on Sky trackers which you excluded. This is only partly true even for pics including landscape!

 Modern systems have so called half speed modes correcting only have of earths rotation and by this also causing smearing problems in the landscape part later. So by this it is possible to gain some extra photons on both the landscape and the starry sky ... Examples are: http://www.vixenoptics.com/mounts/polarie.html or the by me preferred: http://www.ioptron.com/index.cfm?select=productdetails&phid=cffad01a-797c-4cf4-beb8-a64bc8e09b06  (its the more complete package for a better price)

5
Lenses / Re: Lens dilemma for night sky
« on: November 20, 2013, 08:37:50 AM »
... Again I'm looking at the widest aperture possible, because of the noise. ...

Astrophotographers beat noise by exposure time (stacking of many indv. exposures) and not open aperture!
It is much easier and cheaper to double exposure times than to double apertures! Only in special cases (astrophotography incl. landscape or moving phenomena like aurora) one fully opens up to have the shortest exposure times possible....  I fully agree that manual focus is perfectly o.k. since compared to any meaningful exposure time the manual focusing time with e.g. live view in 10x mode is negligible. In the analog times it was much harder with test images or knife edge focusing....

6
Lenses / Re: Lens dilemma for night sky
« on: November 20, 2013, 08:21:43 AM »
Stars are the hardest test for chromatic abberations, coma and astigmatism. Moreover, in more light polluted areas vignetting is quite obvious. Whereas I will not question the high quality of the Zeiss optics (had many of them in my analog Contax time) wide open is not an option if you want high quality results. This link is somewhat outdated but still valid for its basic message: http://www.astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/LENSES.HTM

7
Lenses / Re: Lens dilemma for night sky
« on: November 20, 2013, 04:33:54 AM »
If you want to have good star images in the corners you will have to stop down most (all wider) of the lenses for one to two stops, sometimes even 3. So the argument to save money when using at 2.8 optic instead of a 1.4 stopped down to 2.8 is not correct since the 2.8 optic needs to be stopped down again to at least 4.... I even stop down fantastic lenses like the 135/2, the 200/2.8 or the 300/2.8 and 500/4 since you benefit a lot in quality when doing this in astrophotography!.

8
Lenses / Re: Canon IS BINOCULARS
« on: September 28, 2013, 12:26:49 PM »
I have the 15x50 IS model and you can adjust the right eyepiece...

9
Software & Accessories / Canon DPP Version 3.13.45 update!
« on: September 20, 2013, 08:38:00 AM »
Canon DPP Version 3.13.45

- Supports images taken with EOS 70D, EOS Kiss X7 / EOS Rebel SL1 / EOS 100D, PowerShot G16, PowerShot S120.
- Supports new lens (EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS STM, EF 200-400mm f/4L IS USM Extender 1.4X, EF-M 11-22mm f4-5.6 IS STM).
- The accuracy of the white balance in M-RAW and S-RAW images has been improved.

10
EOS-M / Re: EOS M for travel
« on: August 31, 2013, 11:54:57 AM »
I love the 11-22! It is clued to the m now especially since I use the m frequently as second (wide) body for my wildlife excursions with the 5DIII+500mm...

11
Software & Accessories / Re: Bag to carry body attached to 500mm
« on: August 31, 2013, 11:52:55 AM »
thinkTANK Class Limo is just perfect for my:

5DIII+Grip attached to the EF500/4ISL
plus 1,4x and 2x Extender
and the eos m + lens for the wider view
and some small stuff in the outer sleeve
and my mono or tripod on the side...

My standard wildlife emergercy kid for hiking or biking...

12
Lenses / Re: Wide angle lens' for crop sensor camera
« on: August 02, 2013, 05:29:07 AM »
Buy the eos m plus the new 11-22 and be happy!  For its total size and weight (and prize!) you can have it in parallel to your other equipment and dont have to change optics...

13
Lenses / Re: What's the Difference: 1.4X EF Extender 2 Vs. 3
« on: July 24, 2013, 12:37:56 PM »
I haven't paid much attention to the MKIIIs as I only use my TCs on occasions. I was thinking of upgrading the 2XII but someone on here say they can't be stacked with the 1.4. What is the story?

Here is a shot using the 1DSIII +100-400 + 1.4 +2.0 MkIIs but if I can't stack the IIIs this would not work.

Thats true, no stacking any longer!  But that was  for me not really an option already before...

14
Lenses / Re: What's the Difference: 1.4X EF Extender 2 Vs. 3
« on: July 24, 2013, 11:25:14 AM »
I use the extenders on the new 70-200/2.8IS II and the old 300/2.8IS and 500/4IS, mostly
with a 5DIII or 7D.

As already stated by some others:
Optically the 1.4x was not improved significantly but the Mark III 2x extender was really a change!
Before I used the 2x only in cases of emergency now I use it quite often on the zoom when I dont
want to carry the long stuff or on the 500mm for little birds (with workig AF on the 5DIII now!)

nubu

15
EOS-M / Re: Crazy moon
« on: July 24, 2013, 07:05:24 AM »
I did some moon pictures through my amateur telescope (912mm + 2x extender) some weeks ago. The little m did a good job!


I love this shot!

I shot this one with tripod, a 5D II, 800L F5.6 + 2xIII converter

http://500px.com/photo/16807807


Thanks! But your pic is also nice.

One small suggestion to improve it: separate the pic into its RGB components and shift the blue layer maybe 1 or 2 pixel down and the red 1 or 2 pixel up with respect to the green layer. By this you compensate for the atmospheric spectrum visible (it acts like a prism). This is even more helpfull when taking pics at lower elevation. One can always try to do this to taste...

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