July 25, 2014, 06:43:08 AM

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Messages - Rocky

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1
EOS-M / Re: Adapters + legacy lenses on the EOS M: any advice?
« on: July 24, 2014, 08:49:37 PM »
My Leica-M to EOS-M adapter came in today. I have been playing with a 35/2 Summicron from my 45 years old Leica collection. The 35/2 Summicron is my favorite lens.  It is sharp and contrasy when stopped down to f 4.0 in the film application. Tripod and manual focusing  was used ( with 10X magnification) for both indoor and outdoor shots. Outdoor is just shooting down the street with the center of interest 60 ft away and 150 feet away. Indoor target is a unframed (no glass) fine painting with a lot of detail (Flash is used to avoid hand shaking). F2.0 to F8.0 was used to eliminate focusing error for all indoor and out door shots..
Result : It is shocking. As a pixel peeper, the Canon 22mm f 2.0 beats the Summicron in both contrast and sharpness.
Conclusion: It is fun to play with the old lens. I suppose the old lens was not built for 18 MP resolution Bayer sensor with AA filter ( may be that is why Leica digital M is not using AA filter). Is it worthwhile to use old lens on the EOS-M??

Update: Tried the Voigtland 25/4 after diner (indoor) it is worst than the Summicron.
              Tried the Elmar 50/2.8. It is a touch better than the  Summicron. But still below the Canon22mm 2.0
                             Elmar 50/2.8 is a very sharp lens at its time. It it so sharp that it was double duty as a 
                                        macro lens with the proper attachment

Final verdict: I give up, I do not even  want to try the Elmar 90/4 or the Hector 135/4.5. These two are too big and too heavy for the EOS-M anyway.

2
EOS-M / Re: Adapters + legacy lenses on the EOS M: any advice?
« on: July 24, 2014, 01:31:42 PM »
I also have to consider that a new 50mm Canon (F/1.8 IS?) could (will eventually) be delivered, so I'm not sure about having (in the future) two prime lenses with the same focal lenght.
Maybe something different (the 100mms you mentioned, or a good 35mm...).

You may also have to consider that a new 50mm f/1.8 IS will cost $300-$400 and still won't deliver the umph. If I was looking for a really small manual lens for my mirrorless camera, I would consider something like Leica Summicron-C 40mm f/2 (I think it is $500-$800 used).
40mm on crop will be 64mm angle of view in 35mm. It may be too narrow. If you  want to go to the route of Leica  lens. 35mm f 2.0 (Summicron) will be a better choice. It is about the same size of the 40mm f 2.0. If the price is too high, then you may try the 35mm f2.8 Summaron.

3
EOS-M / Re: Need help.. LCD turns on but black!?!
« on: July 24, 2014, 01:36:50 AM »

 
Bought the EOSM kit from directly from Amazon US brand new during the fire sale, so authorized dealer and in the US. Can't believe this happened a year and 10 days from ship date, and shutter count is probably in the neighborhood of 500. Thanks, I'll be sure to with my credit card company in regards to any possible extended warranty.

So for a more accurate description of what's going on, the LCD powers on, but no menus, settings, or text display. Images do not display when I try to cycle through images. When connected to the PC, the docking screen icon doesn't show as well, but is camera as expected is detected by the PC. The touch screen itself works as I can still move the focus box. The camera still takes pictures as I've taken some, and reviewed the sd card after.

The camera has never been dropped.

I'll give Canon and call and see what my options are. Thanks all!

You are only 10 days out of warranty, Talk to Canon ask for a "good will warranty". If Canon will not do it, ask the Amazon Visa about the " double warranty" offered by Amazon Visa.

4
EOS-M / Re: How do you carry your EOS-M?
« on: July 23, 2014, 08:41:23 PM »

I notice that the lens cap is attached not to the lens body but to the moving element group.  This troubles me, as the lens cap protrudes, and thus it is likely to be hit, resulting in a direct impact to the focusing apparatus.  It seems to me that with the lens cap removed, the tiny front element is exposed, but the focusing apparatus is better protected. Also, the lens cap does not protect debris from entering the focusing mechanism, only from contacting the front element.  Hence, I think I'll forgo the use of the lens cap.


Just got mine and I noticed too that the lens cap is pretty thick being a center pinch style. I was thinking about just using a bare UV filter instead of lens cap. But I wonder if that would introduce some other complications. I was also thinking that perhaps it would help with flare as the ring on the filter may block some stray light. Comments?
You can cover the entire lens with  a 61mm push on cap.  I just got mine. You want to make sure it is a 61mm not 60mm. the standard push on cap for a 58mm filter lens is 60mm. I suggest you to try ii out before buying it.

5
EOS-M / Re: Adapters + legacy lenses on the EOS M: any advice?
« on: July 23, 2014, 03:35:17 PM »
I recently installed Magic Lantern on my M and appreciated the improved ability of manual focussing, thanks to the focus peaking feature.
 

What is your impression on the Magic Lantern?? Did you see any  problem?? Which built day did you used? I am thinking about installing magic Lantern on my EOS-M. But I have also read that there are problems with the shutter release.  Thanks for the advice in advance.

6
EOS Bodies / Re: DSLR ? - thinking out loud ....
« on: July 19, 2014, 06:08:07 PM »
This is another absolutely opposite case. With  a fully charged battery, I was playing with the manu, custom function, for about 45 minutes.  Then the battery died after less than 10 shots.

7
EOS-M / EOS-M and Magic Lantern
« on: July 18, 2014, 12:46:47 PM »
Has anybody used the Magic Lantern on EOS-M?? What is your experience of Magic Lentern on M??Thanks.

8
EOS Bodies / Re: DSLR ? - thinking out loud ....
« on: July 17, 2014, 03:53:27 PM »
This is not the first time that members try to ring the "death bell" 0f DSLR or mirroless. Personally, I cannot see any reason why either group should do that. If you look back into the film days, SLR and range finder(interchangeable lens) cameras has been co-exist since the1930's. Each type has its advantage and  disadvantage. Which one to pick depends on personal choice, requirement and the pocket book. Leica, Canon, Nikon, Zeiss etc. are all in both camps. Range finder  can do anything a SLR can do ( with the right attachment), may be a little bit clumsy. Until 1970's, range finder has only one company left (LEICA). SLR over-run the range finder. The range finder cannot complete with SLR is due to higher  price ( complexity and precision of the view finder  and range finder leads to much higher price) and versatility. Now we are in digital age.  I can see the co-existance of both DSLR and the mirrorless. I do not expect one will over-run the another for a long long long time.

9
Your observations match mine but before you rely on the M as a travel companion, use it under bad conditions before, that is hanging around your neck and doing 150+ pictures  on two consecutive days.

One will demonstrate what havoc the touchscreen can create, the other what a fun power management with the M is.

I'm satisfied with the M now, but my first SE Asia trip with the M was quiet a learning curve
Thanks for the advice. No original strap is used to avoid the touch screen being set unintentionally with my body. I also try to shut off the camera more often to minimize battery drain. Will travel with two spare batteries.

10
EOS-M / A quick and un-orthodox user impression (review) on the EOS M
« on: July 15, 2014, 02:56:18 AM »
I finally got my M upon good advices from the members of this forum. Thanks. There are many excellent review on the M. Therefore I am trying not to repeat what has been done.

1. AF speed: This is the weak point for a few people. Coming from 40D and 20D. It is good enough for me even with the 22mm f2.0. It is definitely faster than most  p & S. I do not shoot action or children anymore.
2. AF point selection: The touch screen does a better job than the dial on the 40D
3. CA correction:  It tends to make the picture "less sharp". I would avoid it personally.
4. Printed owner's manual: not so good, sometimes confusing.
5. Controls (or the lack of it): I use the touch screen instead of the dial 95% of the time. After 4 days of playing around, I do not even miss the dual control dial and the joy stick on the 40D.
6. 90EX flash: small, cute, slow recycle and weak.  However, when it teams up with the 22mm set at f2.0, it seems it can instant recycle at 10 ft.
7. 22mm lens: very sharp at center even wide opened. whole frome is sharp at 2.8 to 8.0
8. 18-55mm: sharp at center even wide open. corners get much better by stopping down one stop.
9. with 22mm lens, it will fit in my pants pocket and jacket pocket comfortably except the weight. I carry it with an old Rollie  P& S film camera pouch on my belt. No original strap. A fabric hand strap is used for compactness.
10. Screen: may be a little bit hard to see at bright sun light. I have a Voigtlander 25mm view finder. With my glasses to force my eyes away from the view finder it gives me almost the same view as the 22mm lens on M. That helps.

It will replace my 40D with 17-40mm and 28-135mm as a travel camera. it will be a great weight saving.

11
EOS-M / Re: How do you carry your EOS-M?
« on: July 12, 2014, 01:00:54 PM »
Just got my M. I have a old Rollie P &S film camera. The pouch is a perfect fit for the M with 22mm lens. I wear the pouch on my belt.  I use the P&S fabric hand strap from my old S870.  A slip knot was tied to  the lug of the camera. I have also used tread to make sure that the knot WILL NOT come loose. Since the strap is compact, I can tug it inside the pouch.  That makes it a very neat package. The real purpose of the strap is for security during shooting, not for carrying the camera by itself.
I also use an old Lowepro Mini shoulder bag to carry the M with 22mm in the pouch, the 18-55mm lens, the90EX and a few odds and ends

12
At least my proposed APS-H have a chance to beat or equal to the 1DX in terms of low light and frame rate with the portability of the 6D. What more can I ask for? Only draw back is that it has a low MP count. But Sony has just done  that. There must be someone out there want such type of camera. The existing APS-C cannot match the FF in low light is due to the MP race. With the same technology and same pixel density( read it as pixel size), the APS-C will equal the FF in low light.
It depends upon whether you are going to compare a 100% crop of each camera and look for noise, or compare the image as a whole (or even an equal crop of each).

If you chose to do the sensible comparison (images as a whole, or crop into the same section of each frame), then with equal technology between the formats, the bigger sensor wins every time.
Agree, bigger sensor will win due to higher pixel  count in resolution and over all noise(after down sized to the same pixel count of the cop). But if you cope the ff into the same pixel count of the crop sensor, the overall noise and resolution should be the same assuming a good lens is used. The crop sensor require 1.6 better resolution of the lens to get the same resolution of the ff.

13
If Canon bring back the APS-H, It must be in the niche market and meet the following requirement.
1. Smaller than the 6D for portability
2. Same pixel density(or even smaller) than the 1Dx for low light/high ISO performance.
3. Very fast FPS for sports photographer due to lower MP.
4. At least half of the price of 1Dx
Question is at this day of age, how many photographer can live with a 10 to 12 mp camera as a general purpose camera?


Why does it have to be smaller than the 6D when you're going to be hanging big whites off it?
I think a 7D size 24+MP APS-H body would be attractive since the 1D4 is 16MP and $3500 complements the current line alongside the 5D3
Why it has to be paired with the Big White.  It  can also pair with the shorty 40 To be carried around as "king of low light" for family event.

I think someone is confusing what they would like it to be versus where it should fall in regards to performance within the lineup. 

I don't see a aps-c/h having better low light performance than the current full frame models for at least 10 years... but maybe I'm being pessimistic...
APS-H Does not fit the existing line up either. You already have 6D as low cost FF, 5DIII as mid range FF then the 1DX at the top, 7D as top APS-C. Where does the APS-H fit in??? So if I  want a APS-H I need to think outside of the box and propose what I WANT. I agree that my proposal does not fit the existing line up. So is a general APS-H proposal without any substance. At least my proposed APS-H have a chance to beat or equal to the 1DX in terms of low light and frame rate with the portability of the 6D. What more can I ask for? Only draw back is that it has a low MP count. But Sony has just done  that. There must be someone out there want such type of camera. The existing APS-C cannot match the FF in low light is due to the MP race. With the same technology and same pixel density( read it as pixel size), the APS-C will equal the FF in low light.

14
Lenses / Re: Build quality of Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM?
« on: June 28, 2014, 11:28:26 PM »
The small swing you describe is normal in zoom lens "not L". Canon 28-135mm for example is much worse than that.
Thanks for putting my mine at ease. When I first got my 28mm-135mm, the 'play" of the front part of the lens can be up to 1mm, whether the lens has been extended or not.

Heh.  When I got my 28–135, I screwed a filter on it, and the lens promptly slammed to maximum zoom from the weight of the filter.  I swapped it for another one, which did the same thing, at which point I gave up and stuck with the 24–105L kit lens, despite desperately wanting more reach than that.

I'm still waiting for Canon to release a full-frame lens that's comparable to my 17-85 range-wise and build-quality-wise (besides the 28–300L monster).  I'm not holding my breath, but then again, I think the 28–135 is the oldest non-updated Canon EF lens, so....

But I digress.  Yes, as previously noted, some horizontal play is common in non-L lenses.
the 28mm-135mm lens will extend itself to 135mm( due to the weight of the front element group) when you let the front element points down. That is normal

15
Lenses / Re: Build quality of Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM?
« on: June 28, 2014, 08:17:45 PM »
The small swing you describe is normal in zoom lens "not L". Canon 28-135mm for example is much worse than that.
Thanks for putting my mine at ease. When I first got my 28mm-135mm, the 'play" of the front part of the lens can be up to 1mm, whether the lens has been extended or not.

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