July 24, 2014, 07:08:18 AM

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Messages - Viggo

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1
Lighting / Re: Anything Strobist
« on: Today at 03:16:28 AM »
This thread is such a good idea! I've recently decided to take the plunge and purchased a flash/trigger and everyone's pictures and explanations are so helpful. Hopefully I'll get the hang of off camera flash and will be able to contribute to this thread.

That's great to hear! We're looking forward to your shots and inputs. Welcome to CR also :)

2
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: New lamp, what to buy?
« on: July 23, 2014, 05:35:15 PM »
I dont know but A PCB Einstein @ 640 W/s would take atleast 6+ Speelites to get kinda close to the full power output. It would be the same with these if they are measures the same.
Thanks for the tip, but I can't buy Einstein, it's not sold here and I can't import due to importing rules, think it's about the lithium battery, and I think thy used to be only 120V , not 240V.


Not suggesting that you do buy an Einstein, though I recently got two and they are very good. But for the sake of accuracy, the Einstein doesn't have a battery in it and is allowed to be shipped anywhere worldwide with no restrictions (not saying there are not import regulations unrelated to batteries), also they run on any voltage from 95-250VAC 50-60Hz automatically, effectively you can plug them in anywhere in the world and they just work.

But international shipping is a pain and for service or warranty they have to go back to Tennessee and the Einstein also doesn't do HSS.


As for the power output, as IMG_0001 said, the small flash GN only covers a very small area, the Godox has a much wider spread so actually puts out much more light. It is very difficult to compare flash power on specs, even when you use the same figure to do it. For instance if you compare a 1200WS Profoto to an older 2400WS Profoto in the same modifier the 1200 actually gives you one stop deeper dof because it is so much more efficient, WS refers to potential energy.

There is no accurate way of comparing flash output, there is no standard, without firing them next to each other in the same modifier. But the Godox will give you much more light output than the 600-EX-RT.

Addendum: The Godox is rated at GN 52 with a circular beam spread of 65º, the 600-EX-RT is rated at GN60 with a rectangular beam pattern of a 200mm lens, or 12º. This means the area the Godox covers is around eight times bigger. In practice I'd expect the Godox to put out a couple of stops more power than both your 600's together.

Bearing in mind that 65 degrees is around 35 mm focal length and that Canon's 600EX-RT manual states GN36m at 35mm and ISO 100 and 1/1 power. Then, given Godox GN is 52m:

52/36=1.44 times the distance for the correct exposure and given the the inverse square law,:

1.44^2 = 2.

The Godox flash is then pretty much 2 stops more powerful than the Canon. So Private was pretty right.

And I think it is also good to remember that 1 more stop than a 600RT requires two 600EX-RT,
+2 stops = 4 flashes;
+3 stop = 8 flashes and so on.

Therefore a pair of those Godox flashes would be +3 stops and be roughly equivalent to 8 Canon 600EX-RT.

And then comes battery life, overheating possibilities, recycle times and so on...

Thanks again. It starting to look like getting the Godox for sure. I know that for each stop I need twice as many  speedlites, that's why I have two, and only two. After that it starts to become expensive and loooots of batteries.


If you do so, keep us informed of how you like them.  I was interested in some of the Godox products for a small home studio, but I am yet to decide if I trust the brand enough to hand them my precious beans.  Still, some of their products like the bare bulb speedlight and the lithium battried speedlight appear to be relatively well perceived and the prices are very attractive.

I already have a PB820 batterypack for my speedlites and they have seen some abuse, but work as new, and it turns out I can use that pack on the 360 as well, neat stuff.

Only thing is, I saw a transmitter and receiver that allowed me to adjust power remotley, however it did not support HSS. Looks like I have to have one remote in my pocket to adjust power and another to transmitt from camera to both control power and have HSS, it seems like a pita, but hey, they're cheap.

3
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: New lamp, what to buy?
« on: July 23, 2014, 12:05:33 PM »
I dont know but A PCB Einstein @ 640 W/s would take atleast 6+ Speelites to get kinda close to the full power output. It would be the same with these if they are measures the same.
Thanks for the tip, but I can't buy Einstein, it's not sold here and I can't import due to importing rules, think it's about the lithium battery, and I think thy used to be only 120V , not 240V.

Not suggesting that you do buy an Einstein, though I recently got two and they are very good. But for the sake of accuracy, the Einstein doesn't have a battery in it and is allowed to be shipped anywhere worldwide with no restrictions (not saying there are not import regulations unrelated to batteries), also they run on any voltage from 95-250VAC 50-60Hz automatically, effectively you can plug them in anywhere in the world and they just work.

But international shipping is a pain and for service or warranty they have to go back to Tennessee and the Einstein also doesn't do HSS.


As for the power output, as IMG_0001 said, the small flash GN only covers a very small area, the Godox has a much wider spread so actually puts out much more light. It is very difficult to compare flash power on specs, even when you use the same figure to do it. For instance if you compare a 1200WS Profoto to an older 2400WS Profoto in the same modifier the 1200 actually gives you one stop deeper dof because it is so much more efficient, WS refers to potential energy.

There is no accurate way of comparing flash output, there is no standard, without firing them next to each other in the same modifier. But the Godox will give you much more light output than the 600-EX-RT.

Addendum: The Godox is rated at GN 52 with a circular beam spread of 65º, the 600-EX-RT is rated at GN60 with a rectangular beam pattern of a 200mm lens, or 12º. This means the area the Godox covers is around eight times bigger. In practice I'd expect the Godox to put out a couple of stops more power than both your 600's together.

Bearing in mind that 65 degrees is around 35 mm focal length and that Canon's 600EX-RT manual states GN36m at 35mm and ISO 100 and 1/1 power. Then, given Godox GN is 52m:

52/36=1.44 times the distance for the correct exposure and given the the inverse square law,:

1.44^2 = 2.

The Godox flash is then pretty much 2 stops more powerful than the Canon. So Private was pretty right.

And I think it is also good to remember that 1 more stop than a 600RT requires two 600EX-RT,
+2 stops = 4 flashes;
+3 stop = 8 flashes and so on.

Therefore a pair of those Godox flashes would be +3 stops and be roughly equivalent to 8 Canon 600EX-RT.

And then comes battery life, overheating possibilities, recycle times and so on...

Thanks again. It starting to look like getting the Godox for sure. I know that for each stop I need twice as many  speedlites, that's why I have two, and only two. After that it starts to become expensive and loooots of batteries.

4
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: New lamp, what to buy?
« on: July 23, 2014, 12:02:06 PM »
Viggo, I also have a pair of Einsteins and they are excellent, but I understand the import issues & costs.  I wanted to ask you about your need for HSS.  A few weeks ago I spent a good deal of time reading Paul Buff's thoughts on the use of HSS and why he will never implement the feature into his Einstein or other lights.  Essentially he feels that the power reduction and sync issues aren't worth it and you're better off adding more power to get to your camera's x-sync speed instead.  I can see both sides of the issue, but he had a lot of compelling arguments.  I can point you to some of the posts on his forum if you're interested.

I think one of the key points for HSS is the ability to select very narrow dof without resorting to variable PL filters which hurts focus etc. And that is Viggo's style, fast primes wide open.

I think Paul is being a little economical, PCB are happy to boast, very loudly, about the flash duration speed which is as dependent on low power settings as HSS is inefficient. There is no doubt there is a demand and interest in HSS for studio lights, and IGBT is the way to do it.

Indeed, I don't want to mess around with pitch black filters, much more fun to simply set the exposure I want for background and the dof (VERY rarely narrower than 1.4) and just shoot. I found that the power lost in HSS is so worth it to able to use HSS. But that will make the speedlites lack power in daylight, and is why I want something like the Quadra, but with HSS.

Hmm, I had completely forgotten about the B1....

5
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: New lamp, what to buy?
« on: July 23, 2014, 09:19:28 AM »
I dont know but A PCB Einstein @ 640 W/s would take atleast 6+ Speelites to get kinda close to the full power output. It would be the same with these if they are measures the same.
Thanks for the tip, but I can't buy Einstein, it's not sold here and I can't import due to importing rules, think it's about the lithium battery, and I think thy used to be only 120V , not 240V.

Not suggesting that you do buy an Einstein, though I recently got two and they are very good. But for the sake of accuracy, the Einstein doesn't have a battery in it and is allowed to be shipped anywhere worldwide with no restrictions (not saying there are not import regulations unrelated to batteries), also they run on any voltage from 95-250VAC 50-60Hz automatically, effectively you can plug them in anywhere in the world and they just work.

But international shipping is a pain and for service or warranty they have to go back to Tennessee.

As for the power output, as IMG_0001 said, the small flash GN only covers a very small area, the Godox has a much wider spread so actually puts out much more light. It is very difficult to compare flash power on specs, even when you use the same figure to do it. For instance if you compare a 1200WS Profoto to an older 2400WS Profoto in the same modifier the 1200 actually gives you one stop deeper dof because it is so much more efficient, WS refers to potential energy.

There is no accurate way of comparing flash output, there is no standard, without firing them next to each other in the same modifier. But the Godox will give you much more light output than the 600-EX-RT.

Thanks for he detailed info, great stuff. And I should've known, because it's just to compare my deep octa 70 cm to a cheap 70 cm octa off of eBay I have, the deep octa is MUCH better to reflect the light out of the octa.

Such a shame the Acute 600 doesn't do HSS, lol..

6
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: New lamp, what to buy?
« on: July 23, 2014, 08:13:02 AM »
The speedlite is GN60m zoomed at 200mm while the Godox flash head is GN52m for a wide angle reflector (haven't seen how wide and that is not standardizied as far as I know) . In a similarly wide angle, the 600 probably gives under GN20m as the light intensity reduce in proportion of the illuminated surface, or to the square of the edge lenght of the illuminated area.  (Inverse square law).

Thanks, that makes more sense, but still, I was thinking I would not use a reflector at all inside a soft box. It's almost impossible to figure out the output without trying both speedlites and another lamp inn the same box and measure the f-stop with a light meter at a given distance it seems. I don't want to buy a flash that's barely more powerful and the two 600 RT's I already own  :D

7
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: New lamp, what to buy?
« on: July 23, 2014, 08:10:23 AM »
I dont know but A PCB Einstein @ 640 W/s would take atleast 6+ Speelites to get kinda close to the full power output. It would be the same with these if they are measures the same.
Thanks for the tip, but I can't buy Einstein, it's not sold here and I can't import due to importing rules, think it's about the lithium battery, and I think thy used to be only 120V , not 240V.

8
Third Party Manufacturers / New lamp, what to buy?
« on: July 23, 2014, 06:06:31 AM »
Hi all!

I sold my Elinchrom Quadra because it didn't do HSS, and I'm currently using two 600 RT speedlites.

I'm looking at GoDox and had a look at this link:

http://www.godox.com/EN/Products_Portabe_Flash_EX_Series.html

But seeing that the say 400Ws is the same as guide no. 52?? I'm not sure why I would buy if that is correct, the 600 RT is guide no. 60. I know that you can't really calculate and convert those two, but they have provided both values, but I can't find it to add up. Which one is it? My Quadra was 400Ws and I had at least 1 1/3 stop power advantage over the two speedlites.

What would you recommend for a 400-600Ws portable flash that does HSS and is cheap like the GoDox?

Thanks !




9
Lenses / Re: Sigma 50mm Art 1.4 Focusing problems
« on: July 22, 2014, 02:47:15 AM »
...
But it's annoying to buy a fairly expensive AF lens which you're expected to fiddle around with on a docking station and even then seems best used, in the case of many copies at any rate, in MF mode.
...

Why do you think AFMA exists on Canon cameras? To address the same problem that the docking station is for.

The problem isn't QC it is engineering tolerances and the fact that neither camera nor lens are all made the same. There is copy variation between each camera and lens. This means that whilst AFMA might be +5 for a given lens on your camera, that same lens might be -5 on my camera and that same lens might be +0 on someone else's camera.

Like we've said soo many times before, it's NOT about afma ... Sigh, it's the  inconsistency ! Please print this message and tape it on your fridge.

10
1D X Sample Images / Re: Any Thing shot with a 1Dx
« on: July 20, 2014, 04:40:39 PM »
Catching bubbles with 85L II @ f1.2

Sweet shot! The bars in the background lead my eye to the bubble, great pop also .

11
Lighting / Re: Anything Strobist
« on: July 20, 2014, 04:30:48 PM »
Thanks for your comment. I used a IR-type preset for that shot, crushed the blacks a bit and it turned out better in BW in color, which I find seldom.

They have an B&W movie look that looks beautiful. Keep doing what you are doing, don't change a thing. Looking forward to seeing more.

Too kind man! Thanks! :D

12
Lighting / Re: Anything Strobist
« on: July 20, 2014, 03:45:45 PM »
Viggo, you are utilizing the Art wide open beautifully. Love your B/Ws.
How strong was the sun? I am impressed that 2 Speedlites at 1/4 are able to overpower it so well.

It was around 5 pm, so not midday, but the one of my daughter on the swing was midday. They are packing some real punch for sure, at least without a softbox. The 50 Art wide open is perfect for what I shoot, the complete no distortion and the corner sharpness is tailor made for me.

Thanks for your comment. I used a IR-type preset for that shot, crushed the blacks a bit and it turned out better in BW in color, which I find seldom.

13
Lighting / Re: Bare bulb mod
« on: July 20, 2014, 03:25:50 PM »
@Viggo: This might be quite coincidental, but this thread was posted just today (a thanks and a shout-out, Hannes!)

I was going to post it a week or two ago but forgot, this thread actually reminded me to do it :)

Thanks a bunch, I'm an old electronics repair nerdy head, so this sort of stuff is candy to me, lol.

14
1D X Sample Images / Re: Any Thing shot with a 1Dx
« on: July 20, 2014, 02:15:02 PM »
Why worry what anybody else is doing?

Besides, many pros use P mode, Joe Buissink is a $10,000+ wedding shooter and he only ever uses P mode.

Agreed. The whole debate over "P," "M" etc., is the stupidest thing ever. They all get you to the same point (or at least they should if you know what you are doing). It's just a question of where you want to start out. All a matter of personal preference and one's choice for a starting point doesn't make you a worse or better photographer.

IF you know what you're doing is key in any situation, he clearly did not.

Besides I know a few pro-shooters that has absolutely no idea about how to improve their technique and doesn't how to use a camera to their advantage. I have helped a few with their 5d3's and 1dx's with things that annoyed the hell out of them and they found some crazy workaround that is totally not necessary. Not that that must be the case always. But if it looks like a monkey and smells and acts like a monkey, it surprisingly often is a monkey...

15
1D X Sample Images / Re: Any Thing shot with a 1Dx
« on: July 20, 2014, 09:51:41 AM »
So, this nearly made my cry. My son and I was watching a show at an amusement park the other day and this guy in front of me had an 1dX, but CLEARLY didn't know how to use it, he was pushing buttons and obviously didn't get the results he wanted. He looked sooo cocky I didn't even want to ask if he needed help... Then he rested his camera on his knee and I took this shot to see what he was doing wrong perhaps, pretty obvious to me. I wish someone that knows what a 1dx can do, could have had this camera instead of him.




Hey Viggo....I wish you would've come over and said hello to me at the park that day!  ;) ;D


HAHA!  ;D

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