March 03, 2015, 10:18:51 PM

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Messages - gbchriste

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Crap! One week after I bought the 5DIII/Pixma Pro-100 package for $2549 after a $550 mail-in rebate.

I love the printer and have produced some eye watering images with it after spending a week, half the supplied paper, and a whole lot of ink getting my color management and calibration squared away. But I'm not sure how much I'll actually use it in the long run. And I'd much prefer an instant rebate rather than a mail-in that pays to me as an Amex gift card.

So I would have definitely taken this option if it had been available.

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Canon Pro-1 Question
« on: February 26, 2015, 03:11:05 PM »
Without a doubt, Jeff Schewe's THE DIGITAL PRINT, leads to top notch results.  It changed my whole understanding (or, should I say, confusion?!?).

Once you get a basic work flow, and you have a reasonably calibrated monitor, things just fall into place.

At least that is the case with the Epson 3880.  I had a Pixma Pro 9000II which was just insane with constantly indicating low ink, plus took MUCH more work soft proofing to get rid of color casts and bring back the contrast.  I rarely use the term, "it sucked," but that is how I feel about that Pixma.

Reading Schewe's book and then getting the Epson has me loving, loving, loving the whole printing process on both mat and glossy media.

Just got this book yesterday and it's sitting open in front of me on my desk right now.

I recalibrated yesterday using the Spyder3 Pro puck and native Spyder3 Pro software in stead of the ColorEyes software.  I had ColorEyes because it was the only one that seemed to be able to handle the iMac display brightness on my previous 24" aluminum iMac.

But in the current context on the new machine I found the Spyder software provided a much better profile as far as display brightness goes. I've now got the screen/print brightness issue pretty much under control and overall print tonality and contrast is very, very close to the on-screen soft proof. Especially gratifying to see very subtle shadow details hovering in the range of 8,8,8 (RGB) on screen being preserved and visible in the print. 

I'm now finding though that some of my prints are a bit warmer than my display.  Of course that has a lot to do with viewing environment and I don't have a proper daylight balanced viewing station by which to judge the print and my house has a lot of tungsten light in it.

I'm scouring my way through Digital Print and thinking about upgrading my calibration package to either the Spyder4 or i1 Display Pro.

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Canon Pro-1 Question
« on: February 25, 2015, 12:59:28 PM »
Here's what works for me and my iMac with the Canon PRO-100. I calibrate the monitor with the Spyder, and in the Lightroom 5 Print Module under Color Management I check Print Adjustment box. I then set Brightness and Contrast to +20. Your settings may be different, but once they are set for a given paper, they should always work.

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Canon Pro-1 Question
« on: February 25, 2015, 07:59:28 AM »
I edit and soft proof an image in Lightroom using the target Canon Pro Luster ICC profile.

Did you turn on also "Simulate ink and paper"? Try also to print from Canon own plug-in for Lightroom - just to check where the issue can be. That plug-in offers also the option to print several "proofs" on the same sheet with different settings, from which you can understand which ones works better.

Yes, I am using the Simulate Ink and Paper option.

I tried a little experiment last night, creating 3 different profiles, all using D50 white point and 2.2 gamma, but with 80, 90 and 120 cd/m2 brightness levels. Interestingly, as I changed the active monitor profile between the 3, there was absolutely zero perceived difference in the actual brightness of the monitor. So I'm wondering if the Spyder 3/ColorEyes software combination is actually capable of making an adjustment to the iMac display brightness level or is only shifting color and contrast.

I know it is definitely handling color and contrast because the difference between profiles using D65 vs D50 white point is most noticeable with the D65 being more blue and D50 more yellow. I also can readily see the difference inc contrast between the iMac out of box factory profile and my custom profile.

However at this point I'm not convinced that brightness level is actually being driven by the profile. The on-screen brightness slider in the Mac System Preferences/Displays dialog is always in the center of the adjustment range, regardless of what profile I select. I found that if, no matter what profile I've selected, if I grab the adjustment slider and move it about 1/3 of the way toward the darker end of the slider range, then reedit my image brightness and exposure based on that monitor brightness, then my resulting print is much, much closer to the onscreen view. 

The problem is of course that such an approach is in-precise and not necessarily repeatable.  Right now I'm visually aligning the slider with a character of text above the slider but as the monitor ages, a different position may be needed.

Would be interested to hear from other iMac users as to whether you have similar problems with your profiling package actually controlling the monitor brightness or whether you have to guess at making a manual adjustment.

I've also tried out the Canon Pro Studio and the tiled test prints. Used them to pretty good result on a couple of portrait prints. Based on the tiled print previews I adjusted the brightness up +10 in the Pro Studio settings. That works and I guess for a really critical print - like what might be put in to an exhibit or competition - that would be something to use. But I'd much rather be able to nail the print via the Lightroom Soft Print process rather than have to generate test prints.

I also like some of the Lightroom Print module features that don't exist in Pro Studio, such as the ability to create custom packages or multi-page print jobs, water marking, name plate, file information, et al.

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Canon Pro-1 Question
« on: February 24, 2015, 04:22:33 PM »
I just got the Pixma Pro-100 as part of a 5DIII/Printer rebate deal. I'm editing on a new(ish) 27" iMac, calibrated with a Spyder 3 puck and ColorEyes software. My initial calibration was setup to a monitor luminance of 100cd/m2 and a gamma of 2.2. I edit and soft proof an image in Lightroom using the target Canon Pro Luster ICC profile. Looks good on the monitor but the print was noticeably darker, even under the best lighting conditions holding the print next to a very large window with diffuse daylight coming in.

So I recalibrated with monitor luminance of 90cd/m2 and gamma of 1.8, re-edited and reproofed, paying special attention to shadow detail.  Reprinted. And while the overall brightness of the print was somewhat improved (though still a little darker than I wanted), dark shadow areas that revealed distinct detail in the soft proof were still blocked in the final print.

Color rendition on both was close to spot on when viewing the print under daylight conditions.

I'm about 90% satisfied with the prints I'm getting and feel I'm very close to being able to nail it. But I'd really like to squeeze out that last bit of refinement and just not sure how to get there.  I hesitate to turn down the luminance on the monitor anymore. I'm a stickler for getting in-camera exposure correct but at this point with the lower monitor luminance I'm having to crank up exposure in the Lightroom edit by 1/2 to 1 stop and also use aggressive amounts of the black and shadow sliders to retain shadow and black details in the onscreen soft proof, only to have those areas still blocked on the print.

I've carefully checked all elements of the workflow to ensure I'm using the correct profile, print media type, quality setting, printer color management disabled, etc.

Any other suggestions on how to close the gap on that last 10% would be greatly appreciated.

Pricewatch Deals / Re: Still Live: Canon EOS 5D Mark III Body $1999
« on: February 18, 2015, 03:00:37 PM »
I just pulled the trigger yesterday on the camera/printer package at B&H which priced out at $2549 after the $550 Canon rebate.

Pixma Pro-100 printer
50 sheets of Canon Luster Pro 13X19 paper
Camera battery (3rd party, Watson)
32GB SD card
Non-descript shoulder bag.

Fully aware of the pros and cons of printing myself but always wanted to give it a try none the less. So combine the value of the rebate with the retail value of the printer, paper, and other assorted odds and ends, and your left with about $2000 toward the camera with a Canon USA warranty and B&H customer service.  I think I can live with that.

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Bag Recommendation
« on: February 12, 2015, 07:02:08 PM »
Have a look at the lowepro tactic 450aw, quite a large bag but I should think it suits your need. As long as you take other lenses out too or flashes etc

I did take a peek at that one.  Almost seems too big. I do own a 28-135 and 50mm but never use them, and generally don't take my speed lights out to the field.  So probably over kill


Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Bag Recommendation
« on: February 12, 2015, 11:57:51 AM »
If the stars align I will soon be acquiring a second 5D III.  As an outdoor portrait shooter I normally work with the 5D III/70-200 2.8L II combination, which I carry to the field with lens attached in a LowePro Pro Runner 200 AW, along with a detached 24-70 2.8L II for when I want to go for an occasional wide angle shot.

But recently I've been doing more landscape stuff with the 24-70, and incorporating more wide angle work in my portrait sessions, and really feeling the pain of doing lens swaps out in the field.  I also recently got my first occurrence of an Err 80 during a session. A battery swap cleared it but my change in shooting approach coupled with the possibility of a pending gear malfunction got me thinking about acquiring a second body.

B&H has a great 5DIII/PIXMA PRO-100 rebate deal going on right now so thought this might be a great opportunity to add a second body to my kit and just keep the 24-70 and 70-200 each permanently mounted for ease of changeup during the session, plus have a hot spare should the need arise.

Canon 5DIII, PIXMA PRO-100 printer, 32GB card, battery (3rd party), small shoulder bag - $3099 but with a $550 rebate, so $2549 after rebate. Fold in the retail value of the printer, card and battery and that's close to $2000 for the body.

I really need a good recommendation for a bag that can hold 2 5D III's each with a lens attached (24-70 and 70-200, respectively), with the goal to be able to switch from one to the other without having to go through any kind of lens detach/attach process.

I prefer a backpack style.

Any help is appreciated.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Err 80 - Should I Worry?
« on: February 09, 2015, 02:48:51 PM »
I have 5D Mark III purchased new in June 2012 (shutter count unknown but probably in the 10,000 range). I was shooting a portrait session a couple of days ago with the MIII and 70-200 2.8L II when all of a sudden I locked up with Err 80 on the top LCD.  I've heard of this error before and know it can be a real source of worry, but never concerned myself with it as I had never experienced with this camera or the 5D II and 40D I used as predecessors.

In addition to a San Disk 8GB CF card, I also have a fairly new EyeFi Mobi card, which was in use at the time.  However, I have used that EyeFi card on at least half dozen occasions since November without issue.

Needless to say my heart skipped a beat. Powering off and back on didn't help so I pulled the battery and put a new on in and was able to restore function immediately.  I finished that session and did another complete session the next day without problems.

What is my camera telling me?  Am I on the cusp of a fatal failure?  Is this something that can just randomly pop up and disappear again like it did for me here?  What should I be looking at and thinking about?


Landscape / Re: Beautiful sunsets
« on: February 03, 2015, 02:14:39 PM »

Post Processing / Re: Assembling Portraits
« on: January 28, 2015, 07:53:28 AM »
Very rarely and only when absolutely necessary. I can count on 1 hand the number of times in the last 3 years or so and only in group situations.

The way I optimize a group shot so as to avoid closed eyes, goofy expressions, etc, is I have everyone train their eyes right on my lens and then tell them close their eyes and think of something pleasant.  After a second or two everyone's gaze will relax and take on a natural, relaxed expression.  I then tell them I'm going to count "one, two, three, open" and without moving or changing anything they are to open their eyes on the "open" command.  I count it down and hit the shutter a beat after I command "open".  I get about a 99% success rate with this technique.  I'll shoot 2, maybe three frames just for insurance but can pretty much guarantee that I got a workable shot that won't require compositing to fix.

Landscape / Re: Seashore, Beaches and Harbours
« on: January 07, 2015, 09:12:51 PM »
Very nice shot gbchriste.

Thank you!

Landscape / Re: Seashore, Beaches and Harbours
« on: January 07, 2015, 09:11:52 PM »

Landscape / Re: Seashore, Beaches and Harbours
« on: January 07, 2015, 07:50:00 AM »

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