August 21, 2014, 04:03:54 PM

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Messages - Marsu42

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Fyi all: When my 6D was at Canon service, it obviously self-repaired so that's was the reason why they didn't charge me anything :-p. They did a perfect job at cleaning the camera inside out though and replaced the top dial plate that had fallen off, so I'm a happy camper.

Conclusion: Even if your camera is "broken", it might still be worthwhile to let it dry even for a week before deciding to have it serviced if you have to pay for it yourself. The moisture obviously is very quick to get in, but takes a lot of time to get out.

I was always wondering if this is possible and would like to ask around for experiences: Afaik the servo af simply focuses to the front of the object, at least my 60d/6d do. Now there would be the possibility of intentional backfocus for ...

a) using the optimal dof because focusing on the very front results in a 1/3-1/2 dof thick layer layer of sharp air
b) getting an animal's eyes (or even human's?) in focus because otherwise the nose (or whatever front part) is in focus

Obviously the problem is figuring out the correct afma value, did anyone try this and succeeed?

Imho it's pity today's dslrs are still so dumb you cannot tell them "please focus 1cm behind" because the lens does return an approximate distance information. With Magic Lantern, you can use extended afma values of -100...+100 (Canon fw only allows for 20), but they don't have access to the af module yet.

can you post a detailed description of how to use and process dual iso? ive tried it but the results are not good

Well, you could have a look at the ML site but for a fellow CR regular here it goes :-)

1. obviously: inststall ML
2. probably less obvious: enable "dual_iso" module in the ML menu

3. in the expo menu, enable "dual iso" and set the 2nd iso to use. I usually set the camera to fixed iso 100 and set ML to either 800 (=2.5ev gained) or when push comes to shove 1600 (=3.0ev gained). Then I expose for the highlights, i.e. I dial down ec to -2 or -3 until the highlights aren't clipped anymore - check the ML raw histogram for that.

4. you end up with an interlaced file DUALxyz.cr2 (if you've set the prefix option in the dual_iso menu). You then have to run a post-processing utility "cr2hdr" on the file to get a non-interlaced 16bit raw dng you can import into your postprocessing software.

Get cr2hdr.exe here (Mac/Linux also available somewhere):

The drawbacks of using dual_iso are:
a) it's harder to check for focus in camera because the image is interlaced
b) it's impossible to check for colors because they are screwed before processing with cr2hdr
c) postprocessing hassle, esp. time required for cr2hdr processing
d) dual file storage because you want to keep around the original cr2 in case cr2hdr receives further improvements
e) results usually needs manual wb (esp. tint) setting even though cr2hdr tries to autodetect it
f) if you use it regularly, you really wish you'd have a Nikon with native 14ev @base iso

All in all, I tend to use dual_iso very often, it simply saves me all the 2x brackets I used to do before and had to assemble with a hdr software, accepting the problem with frame differences like moving leaves or grass. I cannot believe how limiting it was to be stuck with the 10.5ev of my old 60d now that I can use 14+ev to capture shadows and bright sunlight in one frame.

Why? Because the moon covered the same absolute sensor area. There is a difference in pixel count between the two images, but overall, both sensors gathered exactly the same amount of light! That's the key there. There is no advantage to a larger sensor if you are not utilizing that increase in sensor area.

Thanks for the great post! Two additions here from my 60d/6d experience:

1. The more sensor coverage you have (with about the same mp ff vs crop), the more you can profit from future developments in noise reduction. DxO's prime shows the way, and I'm sure there's going to be more developments once even more computing power is available.

2. You're talking of reach for tele shots, with reach for macro there's the aspect of a) flight distance of animals and b) light occlusion by the lens (for available light or flash). That's why I still prefer my 60d for insect macros and the like even over my shiny new 6d. The 100L is as sharp as it gets on crop, so no advantage of ff here.

Are you shooting wildlife at ISO 100 and 200 on a regular basis?

Me, too, esp. because Magic Lantern's +3ev dynamic range boost with dual_iso only works with base iso ... that's why I'm regularly using 100/800 or 100/1600 is for wildlife for shadow/sun, sunrise/sunset or catching specular highlights.

Lenses / Re: lifespan of IS motor?
« on: August 11, 2014, 04:35:34 AM »
Using IS at very high shutters speeds can result in blurry images, but I've never had one that I could attribute to the IS.  Its one of those things that is possible, but not a major issue.

Hmmmyes, sorry to be a pita on this, but I've also heard completely other personal opinions from wildlife photogs who often switch between static/IS and moving/no-IS scenes. Personally, I'm not so sure, but I did sometimes get inexplicable blur @100% crop on very high shutter speeds.

As written above, I am rather sure with macro/focus stacks turning IS off is a good idea no matter the famed "tripod detection".

I'm forgetful, and I might get more blurred images from not turning it back on when a slow shutter speed was used.

Hmmmyes, maybe a firmware setting "use IS only on shutter speed below ..." would be in order.
There is nothing wrong with turning IS off and on, but I'd not recommend doing it frequently, like 1000 times a month.  which is ~ 30 times a day. Twice a day is only 730 times a year, so that should not be a issue.

Thanks for your resourceful insight! I usually turn IS & af off at least once a day to review/rate lots of pictures because I hate the IS kicking in when I happen to press half shutter.

But after your comment I might end up rather switching the half-shutter function to "meter only" to save some mechanic switch cycles if they harder/more expensive to replace than on the camera body.

Post Processing / Re: The so called "Blockbuster color grading"
« on: August 11, 2014, 04:25:55 AM »
You are right, popularity is among producers. See one more with before and after.

Ok, interesting, thanks. For whatever it's worth, imho this is rather subtle and fits the scene - esp. in comparison to what I see in cinema, even on good production like the Hobbit which could certainly shine without it. 

Good luck finding an automatization for this & sorry I cannot help - but feel free to share it once you've discovered it :-)

Canon General / Re: Who's on Instagram?
« on: August 08, 2014, 02:38:43 AM »
How many other members are on Instagram?  What are your thoughts on using it?

I've recently been told that instagram is the one thing to post on next to tumblr if you want to spread your photography, but I don't really come to terms with it.

As far as I see it this has a destinct "upload your mobile phone shots" look & fell, and I recently read the user base is very young and predominantly female (I could try to remember the link if necessary) which squares with the people raving about it to me.

Post Processing / Re: The so called "Blockbuster color grading"
« on: August 08, 2014, 02:34:40 AM »
I do video fusion and color grading with blockbuster look is popular in video.

I'm not a video guy, so this is a bit ot, but I dare to ask: popular by the viewers who have to see the stuff, or by the producers who think that color grading gives you an instant blockbuster look?

I admit I'm not the youngest member around here and thus may be old-school, but the color grading in the blockbusters in the last half-decade is getting worse and worse even with high budget films. Saves me money though, I wouldn't want to see these in the cinema even if I would get the ticket for free :-p

Bottom line: Whatever you do, subtlety with grading could also a useful approach... one shot is too little to make up my opinion about your stile though. Maybe you could post the source and graded shot side by side?

Lenses / Re: lifespan of IS motor?
« on: August 08, 2014, 02:28:48 AM »
IMHO, you are much more likely going to break something turning that switch off and on.

Do you have any data on this? Personally, I wouldn't be so sure and thus keep "protecting" my IS if the shutter time doesn't warrant it at all. Plus the 100L IS sometimes makes frightening noises when I turn it on with the camera in a near vertical position (*kneeeecchh-eeeeeek!*) but as far as I've read this is to be expected on this model.

Mostly, I don't use IS for high speed sports/wildlife in good light, for many other situations the stabilizing effect on the vf and thus more accurate framing & af point placement makes IS useful anyway.

Last not least, don't be so sure about the tripod auto-off of the IS, there are some threads about it and I'm getting better results for focus stacking with the IS off via the switch rather than relying on the detection. One reason probably is that even slight vibrations interfere with the tripod detection.

At least it will be free, but I can understand the frustration.

I'm not frustrated yet, but just wanted to have the certainty what my options are - and now I know that the lower cps level is just "nice to have" and they might consider bumping you up in the repair queue, but you cannot do anything about it if they don't.

I think most of us aren't lens limited, but body limited here. I just had a look again at the Canon Europe CPN site, and there sure is a gold level.

True, it's not hard to accumulate that many qualifying lenses.

My statement concerning the levels was fuzzy, you get gold if you've got 2 "pro" bodies, and "platinum" for 3.  But there are hardly any camera bodies that qualify for gold and not for platinum except the soon to be phased out 5dc. It's a marketing decision, that's why you can get platinum with a 5d2 and only silver with a 6d.

Way I look at it, the silver level gets you a slight improvement to turnaround time compared to without, so consider it a bonus. If it is so critical you can't do without the camera equipment for a period, then consider some backup plan.

I've got a 60d as backup alright which in good light holds its own vs. the 6d - it's just that I'm missing an uwa lens for crop. In a pinch, I could always loan a ff camera from a camera store which most likely would be cheaper than a full-fledged cps upgrade even if they've offer it in the EU.

Marsu, if it were me, I'd call and ask for a date when it will be completed and a ask them to provide a loaner while you wait.

Well, unless there are any precedence cases that they gave a loan even for silver I'd like to save myself the hassle to discuss with them...

I don't expect them to take ages for the repair anyway since the 6d is the 2nd most recent canon camera, but it would be nice to know my options if they need to order the "top dial" replacement from japan by ground mail.

They do provide loaners for the paid grades (if available).  for the silver grade, about all you can do is to demand a refund of your money.

Tough, if I don't pay any since it's free on warranty :-p ... but thanks, I figured as much.

Fyi: Unfortunately there is no way in the EU to upgrade your cps level with money directly, you have to purchase the two camera bodies that qualify you for the platinum level. In essence, there's no "gold" level in the eu as it's either amateur/silver like 6d or pro/platinum like 5d2,5d3, ...

The back dial wheel, the info button, the menu button, and the right upper buttons did not work anymore.

Right, so I guess 6d owners should be most careful not to let water condensate or let rain drop on the *back* side of the camera, the top or front might be sealed better.

The funny thing is, that my old 60D never had any problem when I annually stayed inside the tropical greenhouse for hours.

+1, exactly my experience, I always was too lazy to wrap my 60d into a plastic bag in the tropical garden and nothing happened. With the 6d, I definitely won't try that.

It was not easy to convince the Canon Service partner that this issue is under guarantee. They just did it, because there were no water drops inside. Maybe, the Maerz GmbH in Berlin is quite as fair as the Service Center where I sent my Cam.

I seem to be lucky, too (knock on wood): Though a repair part is missing and it will take more time than the cps time span, the repair information they just sent me just states "warranty" ("Garantie") even though it's in a really "used" condition on the outside.

This might be because the camera is less than one year old, and afaik in the EU/Germany in this timespan the *manufacturer* has to prove _to_you_ that you broke it, after one year it's vice versa and they might just try to lay it on you. Or maybe their repair policy is simply more relaxed on newer gear for publicity and customer satisfaction reasons, I don't know.

I'm in the EU and the most I get with my cheap 6d+60 is cps silver, no matter how many lenses I own :-\ ... but on the other hand it's free. The repair terms seem to be similar with the big brothers (pun intended) across the ocean, so I guess everyone can share their experiences:

The "Service Turnaround" is given with 5-7 business days.

The question is: This is only a "nice to have" recommendation, and if for example a part is unavailable it can take "as long as it takes" w/o me being able to do  anything about it, correct?

Please canon, charge me the additional $50 for comparable weather sealing!

They want you to charge *$5000* more for a 1d camera body :-p ... but still thanks to the competition, the 6d exists at all. Let's hope they continue to pressure Canon to do less crippling. On the other hand, why would they? Broken cameras due to humidity will earn Canon more $$$ due to "upgrade sales by planned obsolescence" than they loose from some free servicing under warranty.

But I admit the lack of proper sealing is on my short list of "Top Canon Annoyances", offering a $1600+ camera lacking some rubber rings is plain annoying, the same as not selling sealed ef-s lenses at all no matter the lens' price :-\

If any piece of electronics gets wet, don't seal it in a bag because that will keep the moisture in and worsen the problem. It's much better to find some shelter and let the camera dry out in circulating air.

Good idea, but in this case I was really caught outside by the thunderstorm, had only my water-proof bicycle bags with me and there was no shelter in sight :-\ ... I hope it won't happen again, at least I'll be quicker to stuff my camera away next time.

I haven't soaked my 6D yet (knock on wood), but I was told that 2 6D's and a 50D failed in wet/humid conditions during an insect macro-photography workshop in Belize last year, but 7D's and even some Rebels kept clicking.

Interesting, after my recent experience I believe it - and it's in line with my general assumption that Canon cut corners on the 6d wherever they could, except for the sensor that is. I hope more experiences turn up so we might know if the 6d is really more endangered than for example the 60d or even the 5d2.

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