Messages

1

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: AF - one shot with 5dmkIII or 1dx

« on: May 22, 2013, 01:38:24 PM »

I'm confused by some of these responses and I think you're getting bad information.  The AF selection points and AF mode are independent.  The expansion points work perfectly fine in One Shot -- it's your personal preference on how useful/effective the extra points are for your shooting needs.  For however many point are selected the camera will lock focus on the activated point (or points) it determines is the most ideal candidate based on distance, contrast and whatever other mojo is going on the in the AF chip.  I typically use a 9-pt square for focus and if the point lights up off of the face of my subject I just recompose -- I very rarely hit focus on the background.  This works great for me when shooting events because I just need to get a point to lock anywhere on face.

For switching modes, you can do so in less than a second on the 5D3 using custom modes...I do it all of the time without missing a beat.  Once you get used the the action to switch modes, the dial isn't bad at all.  On the 1DX, you have no excuses to complain.  Using the custom route as Neuro suggested is nearly instantaneous.  You can even tell the camera how many modes to toggle through, so you aren't wasting button pushes.  Additionally, and more in line with what someone mentioned with the DOF button, you can assign either of the custom buttons to activate Servo while pushed and return to One-shot when released.  I have configuration on my 1DX with the other custom button set to toggle between my current AF point selection and all points active, so i can very quickly expand to all points to catch a moving subject.

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Lighting / Re: Stands made for assistant carry/point?

« on: May 03, 2013, 01:29:28 PM »

I use this expanding painter pole with the Kacey Pole Adapter Neuro mentioned above.  It has a padded handle, one-button expansion lock and is very light...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Shur-Line-Easy-Reach-60-in-Adjustable-Extension-Pole-06570L/100534761?N=ary0

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Is there a way to simulate 1dx C.Fn6 on the 5d mark III

« on: May 03, 2013, 10:54:52 AM »

Doesn't the 4-minute timer drain the heck out of your batteries?

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5DMK3 new firmware - Silent shooting in "one shot" is now very loud???

« on: May 03, 2013, 10:24:00 AM »

Something is wrong with your camera.  Nothing about the firmware should have changed shutter noise.  I upgraded this week and shot 2 gigs, all in the silent shutter mode and didn't notice any change whatsoever.  On my 5D3 I only shoot in the silent mode, so I'm very familiar with the sound.

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EOS Bodies / Re: Download Firmware 1.2.1 link for 5DIII

« on: May 02, 2013, 02:03:27 PM »

I shot 2 gigs last night with quite low lighting levels and can confirm the 5D3 AF lock while using IR focus assist is MUCH faster after the 1.2.1 firmware upgrade.  It seems almost half the time to lock, so it's a VERY welcome improvement.

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Lenses / Re: Trouble mounting a new 24-70 II

« on: April 22, 2013, 09:46:43 AM »

Mine started out quite tight (more than my other lenses) but I haven't noticed it recently when changing lenses, so I am thinking it must have loosened up enough for me not to think about it any more.

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EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Canon XA20 and XA25

« on: April 05, 2013, 12:40:32 AM »

Timing is everything.  I had a cart built from Adorama with an XA10 and host of accessories and was planning to make the purchase yesterday while I was at work.  I didn't go through my email until I got home and noticed the announcement for these new cameras.  I would have been SOOOO peeved if I had already bought it, so that's definitely a plus, but now I need to make alternate plans for the 2 video shoots I have before June.  I'm going to try the CPS Loaner program for the first time and see how that works out.  If not, I'll just go back to DSLR video, which I find quite painful to pull off.

The upgrades look quite nice and well worth the wait.  Twice the zoom, bigger chip so better low light, supposedly improved ergonomics, and 60p.

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Canon General / Re: 24-70Mk2 fell off my 5DMk3 and smashed

« on: March 31, 2013, 08:32:37 PM »

I've had a particularly accident prone year so far...hope it's not a trend.  I first dropped my 5D3 with an 85 f/1.2 off my tripod when I didn't screw down the ball tension tightly enough.  The camera dropped down on the ball head hard enough to break it free from the mount and the camera went hurling towards the hard wooden floor below.  The 85mm was destroyed...cracked open...metal mount broken off and still on the 5D3.  Miraculously, the 5D3 seems to have survived without issue.  I sent both into CPS for repair...nothing wrong with the camera but the lens cost me $1,100 to repair.  The repair has been problematic since it came back with lots of dust and cleaning residue swirl marks inside the lens.  I sent it back for cleaning and it came back exactly as bad if not worse.  Now I am about to send it back yet again.  So far every lens I have sent in that needed to be opened up has come back with cleaning issues -- last one had a very visible greasy fingerprint on the inside.

So the next (and hopefully last accident) was dropping my 1DX with 24-70 f/2.8II off of my BlackRapid strap.  I have just started using the Kirk QRC-1 on my BR and I guess I didn't lie it up properly when attaching.  Fortunately the fall was just from below my waist onto hard-ish carpet, but the impact on the lens broke it -- zoom ring wouldn't move the lens at all.  Since this was the very beginning of a long night of shooting I decided to get a little rough with the lens and managed to jam it back into alignment.  It snapped in and seems to be working fine now.  I need to AFMA all of my lenses now, but so far problems in site.  Any thoughts on sending the 24-70 into CPS for alignment if I don't see any problems with it?  Kind of worried about getting the lens back worse than when I sent it in.

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Lighting / Re: Compact Manual Flash?

« on: March 29, 2013, 09:54:02 AM »

Consider whether or not you really need full wireless control of your remotes.  The Canon 90ex runs about $140 new, which is almost twice the price of a single YN-560II (way more powerful flash).  You can save a lot of money by just going the YN route with some inexpensive triggers and have a fully manual setup with a lot of capability.  I recommend the Phottix Stratos II or Calumet Quad Plus triggers (basically the same system in slightly different packages). 

I looked up the 90ex.  It doesn't fire when in Master mode...only uses the flash to communicate with the slaves, but will not contribute to the exposure -- doesn't appear to be selectable either.  The 90ex has no IR output, so it uses the flash as a focus assist and to send into to the slaves -- that could be rather distracting to a subject.

If you want to go the ST-E2 route, I would suggest you just get a flash that can act as a master -- probably won't cost you anything more if you find a used one, and now you'll have extra capability.

10

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: need advise on what speedlite?

« on: March 21, 2013, 12:26:21 PM »

I use Phottix Stratos II for my remotes lights because I don't need the TTL functionality.  I love the Stratos -- great range and very reliable.

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Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: need advise on what speedlite?

« on: March 20, 2013, 06:15:03 PM »

Thought I replied, but guess I never finished...

The YN-560II's and probably other YN models have a sleep and auto power off feature.  You can set the sleep to off, but the power-off will still happen at 30 minutes in the M mode (the only one that will accept a flash trigger) or 60 minutes in the S1/S2 modes (optical trigger only).   Once it shuts off you have to physically hold the power button down to turn them back on.  That means you need to ping them at least every 30 minutes to keep them alive.  I used Stratos II triggers that have a wake-up function, so I just need to do a half-shutter press to refresh the YN's or just take a shot.  It's only a problem if you stop shooting for a while or turn off a particular zone for a while.  The last gig I used them, I had 2 different rooms with remote speedlights and I stopped transmitting to the zones for the room I wasn't in.  I tried to remember to periodically turn the other zones back on and refresh them, but at some point I missed the window and lost one of the YN.  I had to schlep up to the second floor balcony where I mounted it to turn it back on.  Not a show-stopper, but something you may have to keep track of.

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Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: need advise on what speedlite?

« on: March 13, 2013, 02:32:20 AM »

You can do a LOT with speedlights.  I own 5 speedlights (600, 580ii, YN560ii) plus 3 Einsteins and I use the speedlights all of the time.  The only time I use eTTL is with my on-camera flash.  My remote speedlights are always manually triggered only, so that means I can ignore all of the frills of the 600 and just use flashes with similar output and sufficient power to achieve the look I want.  That said, I could easily replace all of my speedlights (the remote ones that is) with YN560-II's at $74/ea and would barely notice a difference from $500+ Canon versions (same power output).  The YN's do have an annoying powersaver feature, but it's manageable.  Get a set of inexpensive triggers (I recommend the Phottix Stratos II, but you're already invested in YN models), and you now have a multi-light off-camera setup with tons of possibilities. 

For your on-camera flash, keep a Canon flash because you'll want the eTTL and multitude of options.  For remotes however, there just isn't much need to spend a lot.

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Software & Accessories / Re: RECHARGEABLE - POWER-EX - ENLOOP - IMEDION

« on: March 11, 2013, 02:14:23 PM »

I started with regular Eneloop and now use the Eneloop XX.  I tried the regular ones side by side with the higher rated Imedions and the old Eneloops easily performed better (faster recycle times).

Whatever brand you choose, get the slow discharge kinds (Eneloop and Imedions are slow but the Power-Ex model you posted are not).  Regardless of the mAh rating, the slow discharge are more efficient and will not only last longer, but can also give you better output.  Every test I've seen so far rates the Eneloops as the best in class, so they are a very easy choice.

I also use and recommend the Titanium 16-bay charger.  It makes it SO much easier to manage that many batteries.

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Red light a challenge for band photos. Strategies for red light?

« on: March 07, 2013, 12:49:38 AM »

That problem also happens with magenta, specifically from a powerful LED wash.  As other have mentioned, converting to B&W did salvage most images, but I never found a good way to process the color versions.  If you can slightly underexpose most of your shots it will give you a little more latitude in post.  Once you ever expose on a strong red/magenta color cast, you won't have many options on the color side.

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D Mark III and green RAw!!!

« on: March 07, 2013, 12:42:37 AM »

I've had this sort of thing happen a few times on my 5D2.  I think I might have had it once on my 5D3, too.  From what I recall mine were always really blue.  It's not a white balance issue at all...it's an error in the camera.  I would be shooting a series of shots and the middle one would randomly come out with nothing but blue, like not all of the color channels weren't recorded.  I've heard other people report it as memory errors, but nothing really definitive.  Conversion to B&W usually did produce acceptable results, too.  I'll did through my library and see if I can find a sample to post.