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Unless I'm being pattern blind, I'm not seeing a date code on my 40 STM. Which seems odd to me.
The "lazy" was more referring to QC on the firmware by obviously not testing the update on enough different body/scenarios to ensure it would work. I do realize they can't test every scenario though, but a body with registered batteries seems like a fairly common one.I don't think it's happening to every body with battery information registered; my 5d3 has battery info registered and the STM upgrade went through first try. But it is clearly happening to some combination of battery, body and battery information registration. I wouldn't rule out an unforeseen interaction between some custom setting and the battery registration.
But, yes... I see new body firmwares coming soon!
I haven't been following this closely enough, but I wonder if maybe the issue is with battery information registered from counterfeit or third party batteries? Maybe the people who had the issue and then succeeded after deleting the battery registration information can chime in on that.
cool thanks for the heads up i was looking at getting a DR-40 too
how do you like it? and what mic do you use with it?
I just recently got this for an upcoming wedding gig. I've used the Zoom H4n in the past but the DR-40 is much cheaper and functions nearly the same, if not better. Currently not using it with mics as it is mainly attached to the house mix of venues for recording. My favorite feature would have to be the dual recording mode which allows a 2nd track to be recorded at the same time as the first but with up to a -12db pad/reduction to avoid clipping.
yeah that feature looks pretty good
also have you tried different speeds of SD cards? do you know what the slowest SD card is that will work well?
might be nice to use my older 8GB SD cards in it
cool thanks for the heads up i was looking at getting a DR-40 too
how do you like it? and what mic do you use with it?
It will be an excellent walk around lens for FF, assuming the CA is good. It will be a good lens for the grand parents with APS-C for taking picture of the grand kids. It is just the perfect focal length (64mm equivalent).I still wish that Canon will come up a EF-S 30mm f2.8.
That is my main question: chromatic and spherical aberration. How does it perform in that respect?
I just received my L plate today. I wasn't really worried too much, but I just put a thin strip of gaffe tape on the "step" so there shouldn't be any direct metal-to-body contact at that edge/right angle.
Greetings Andy,
I apologize for the delay in response – I wanted to make sure I had the most information possible before getting back to you.
We understand that there is still a concern about the chosen design of the plate for the Canon 5D Mark III body, especially regarding the use of the “step” which has been referred to throughout this thread and why we deviated from the “curved flange” design along the back of the plate. We decided to use the rubber gasket for enhancing anti-twist. However, the gasket's irregular shape would cause the plate to tilt when tightened down. The best way which ensured that every camera body would align accurately was to set up a series of contact surfaces that would guide the body into level orientation. For the compound curves of the Canon 5D Mark III, we can get a more consistent result from utilizing flat contact planes than we can by machining a curve into the plate, especially when taking machining variances and tolerances of the different manufacturers into account.
Some people are concerned that the “step” will cause additional marring on the body of the camera. The changes made in rev. A include a small, barely noticeable edge break that was added to this step. It has made a world of difference in minimizing possible marring. Any plate, regardless of manufacturer, may leave some signs of wear at each place where it contacts the camera.
The gaps between the flange and body are the result of our engineers removing excess material after deciding that a taller flange in the back offered superior anti-twist. Leaving material there would not increase support or function in any way and is a matter if cosmetics. Most of our customers like and are happy with the looks of the plate. If you are not satisfied with your plate, we stand by our Return Policy: http://reallyrightstuff.com/WebsiteInfo.aspx?fc=6 .
Please let me know if you have further questions.
Jim
maybe they just removed the old flanges and put new ones in place so they didn't have to scrap them. They def went the easy cheaper route as my 1dm3 is smooth beginning to end no steps at all.
I should get mine thursday according to UPS tracking.
Yeah I don't understand why the 'step' needed to be added. If the plate needed to be raised at that location, why not make it a curved gradual flange vs a step? At least that won't dig into the camera body...
I am totally with you on that. It will be interesting to see if the L-bracket has the same step - if it does, I dunno if I will keep it as it seems like it may leave a mark on the camera. Can you provide a shot of of the side of the bracket with a profile of the step?
maybe they just removed the old flanges and put new ones in place so they didn't have to scrap them. They def went the easy cheaper route as my 1dm3 is smooth beginning to end no steps at all.
I should get mine thursday according to UPS tracking.
