November 23, 2014, 05:05:19 AM

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Messages - privatebydesign

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1
And, if they did come out with a camera specced like that I personally wouldn't buy it, even at $1,999.

2
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 5DIV: 36 MP US $ 3799 TBA in March 2015
« on: November 22, 2014, 10:43:02 PM »
Hmmm, let face it Mr Rockwell never did anything for page hits............

3
I said I'd come back if the buyer got in touch, well they did.

He is not a collector, he got the camera today it is his first digital camera and he intends to shoot with it alongside his EOS 1n-RS, yes that rare pellicle mirror 1 series from the film era!

I couldn't be happier that she has gone somewhere where she will get the use she deserves.

4
Lenses / Re: DPReview: EOS 7D Mark II Shooting Experience
« on: November 22, 2014, 02:14:40 AM »
In my limited use of the camera for the last couple of weeks it looks to be a more solid build than the original 7D. AF is excellent in stills but I have not tested the video aspects completely.
My issue with the camera lies with its interaction with the Canon flashes. The bulk of my work day is spent shooting interiors and exteriors and I have a excellent system worked out with my workhorse original 7D.
Almost all of the interiors that I shoot are HDR (with flash) and also shot hand held with the camera set to fire at maximum fps bracketed in order to capture the exterior of the property. The original 7D was and still is excellent for this because the 600EX-RT or the 580EX flashes won't interfere with the operation of the camera.
Once the flash has been exhausted the camera will continue firing bracketed sequences in order to capture the window exposures. Only when the flash cycles back on after 2-3 seconds will the camera default back to a lower shutter speed. I was drooling over the specs of the 7D2 because I could now bracket up to 7 exposures at 10 frames per second.
I was dismayed to find out that the flashes will shut down the auto bracketing option as soon at it is put on the hot shoe and even if its is turned off. I've tried everything I can think of to work around this problem, so now I am back shooting with the 5 year old 7D with 240,000 exposures and counting.
http://gpphotoca.zenfolio.com/p482677447/h3951ade1#h20251f62

Try using a third party bracket controller, like the CamRanger, it will allow hotshoe mounted flash and as many bracketed shots as you want. Or connect your flash via a PC cord and tape the hotshoe pins, or have your flash on a bracket.

5
Post Processing / Re: POLL: Do you need to fill the histogram in post?
« on: November 21, 2014, 02:13:47 PM »
I put depends so here is my elaboration.

If the scene was a chess board then you would have very little between the spikes at close to black and close to white, if the scene was a grey card you would have one spike just below midpoint.

Where the histogram should be is entirely dependent first, on what the tonal range of the scene was, and two, what you want to make it look like. If you want it to look 'natural' the histogram can look like anything because the composition of a scene can range from a polar bear in a snow field, nothing close even to mid tones, to a black cat in a mine, and everything in between.

If there were blacks and whites in the scene then setting the black and white points makes complete sense, but very often we are missing one or both of those within the scene so introducing one or the other is 'painting yourself into a corner'.

6
Lighting / Re: Studio Light Power Question?
« on: November 21, 2014, 09:04:52 AM »
You have 5 stops of adjustment over a six stop range. For example if you are at full power, 500Ws, you can come down five stops to 15Ws. The settings on the flash would be :Stops dial 1, Tenths dial 0.0, for 15Ws, now go up to 5 on the Stops dial and you have gone up four stops, then go to the Tenths dial and go up 0.9 stops for a 4.9 stop adjustment range across a 5.9 stop output range.

If they had a zero on the Stops dial and you could input just 0.1 on the Tenths dial you would have full adjustment range of your actual output range.

You are right, the numbers are straightforward, 400Ws is close to 1/3 stop less than 500Ws and 250Ws is one stop less than 500Ws.


7
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: REVIEW: Canon 7D2 For Events? Perhaps...
« on: November 21, 2014, 01:38:29 AM »

But, this discussion demonstrates my entire point... the fact that a crop sensor is approaching three year old full-frame sensor performance, to me, is mind blowing.

Perhaps I'm easily amused.  ;)

But it isn't.

What you are saying is the same area of a sensor from a current crop camera is the same as the same cropped area from a three year old ff camera, that doesn't sound good at all. It sounds like there has been no improvement in actual sensor output, on a per area basis, for another three years. If you look back through time and compare same generations of crop and ff cameras that has always been the case, which isn't surprising because they use the same age technology.

However if you want to see where the true sensor performance on a per area basis is look at your phone camera and small P&S sensors, crop your FF or your 'crop' camera to the same dimensions and you will be amazed at the tiny sensors performance, it way outclasses ff an a per area basis.

8
Lighting / Re: Profoto B1 vs. Phottix Indra
« on: November 21, 2014, 12:34:55 AM »
The RoveLight RL500 http://flashhavoc.com/flashpoint-rovelight-rl-600-review/ seems like a happy half step, and the price is very good, plus the battery is internal.

I don't see the advantage of the Indra over an Einstein and Mini Lithium, they both have external batteries, one cable and the head.

Profoto are supposed to be working on HSS and it will be able to be firmware upgraded to the current heads, but there is no knowing which cameras the upgrade will support.

I have been looking very closely at the Profoto set, I am just waiting to see how the development goes and waiting until I have a TTL supported camera. They are expensive but strike me as a buy once kind of deal, having said that service, batteries and spares cost the same as a new Einstein so they need to be durable to be worth the money, and the controller is daft money too! One payoff I noted with the kit, you get a backpack and car charger but only one mains charger.

All in all I expect I will be looking to get a set late next year or early 2016, seems a long way off but until that 1DX MkII comes out and is supported I am in limbo.

9
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Sending my 7D2 back due to high ISO noise
« on: November 21, 2014, 12:10:45 AM »
I am no crop camera apologist, but to me the differences are small, couple that with the fact that the 7D MkII shot light is flatter, either a few minutes later or on a more shady part of the water, and if they are both close to 100% then you are enlarging the 7D MkII image nearly twice as much, makes me think you might not be comparing this as evenly as you think.

10
However the X100 sync is a work a round that has it's own limitations, anything short of a true shutterless sensor read exposure and very short flash duration is. The real game changer in this area for serious pros has not been the X100 but the Profoto B1 Air kit, sync at any speed and any aperture, true HSS with a decent amount of power.

And now the Chinese are coming out with their own versions of powerful HSS enabled integrated battery powered studio strobe crossovers at a fraction the price, that is where the strobists that want to push boundaries should be looking, not at leaf shutter hacks.

Very good point regarding what the best option for strobists may be. There are definitely limitations even with the x100 setup. However, the kit you're referring to starts at just shy of  $4,000. I would love to have it. But for mere mortals like myself, a used x100 runs about 400-600 bucks nowadays (x100s for 800-950).

Haven't read anything about the chinese knockoff versions. But you definitely have my interest piqued. Although I don't know what price range they would fall into as even 25-50% of the cost of the name brand kit would be too expensive more many.

BTW, can you point me in the right direction with some names of the knockoffs? Thanks in advance.

The RoveLight RL600 has a fully integrated battery for $599, more than 8 times the power of a 600-EX-RT, and that includes the radio trigger with power control.
 
http://flashhavoc.com/flashpoint-rovelight-rl-600-review/

11
Incremental sync speed is vastly over rated and not the panacea many seem to think it is. Besides, the 1D from 2002 synced at 1/500 and the 1D MkIV syncs at 1/300 AND, speedlites like the 600-EX-RT, 580 EX II, Nikon SB910 etc have full power flash duration in the 1/250-1/350 range anyway, shorter shutter speeds actually cut your power even when you are not in HSS.
I disagree. A FF camera with a sync speed @ 1/500th at that price would be a game changer. The X100 is already a hit with many strobists. It means I can stress my speedlites less, better battery life, and less headaches of battery pack swaps.

Of course you do.

However the X100 sync is a work a round that has it's own limitations, anything short of a true shutterless sensor read exposure and very short flash duration is. The real game changer in this area for serious pros has not been the X100 but the Profoto B1 Air kit, sync at any speed and any aperture, true HSS with a decent amount of power.

And now the Chinese are coming out with their own versions of powerful HSS enabled integrated battery powered studio strobe crossovers at a fraction the price, that is where the strobists that want to push boundaries should be looking, not at leaf shutter hacks.

12
Incremental sync speed is vastly over rated and not the panacea many seem to think it is. Besides, the 1D from 2002 synced at 1/500 and the 1D MkIV syncs at 1/300 AND, speedlites like the 600-EX-RT, 580 EX II, Nikon SB910 etc have full power flash duration in the 1/250-1/350 range anyway, shorter shutter speeds actually cut your power even when you are not in HSS.

13
EOS Bodies / Re: A Real EOS M Replacement Coming Soon? [CR1]
« on: November 20, 2014, 12:21:02 AM »
(c) wireless remote control (without resorting to the battery draining WiFi feature)

How do you do that?

RC-6 is supported on the M (wireless infrared)

That's not really 'remote control' it is just a remote release. My understanding is the M has been remote control via USB crippled too.

I didn't address the merits of it.  RC does stand for remote control and infrared is wireless so the statement is valid.  And I have used it on a few occasions since there is no other supported external method to trigger as you noted. 

I have used both USB and iPhone controls on my 6D; either would be nice to have with the M.  Maybe in the next version.

Only if you buy into the Canon bullshit. Everybody knows the difference between a simple remote release, the RC-6, and actual 'remote control', as in having one iota of actual control.

I can use a 600EX-RT and or ST-E3-RT to trigger the shutter on the M too, and that is true radio, but that still doesn't give me remote control, which is what I was interested in.

14
I'm very happy with the Wonderpana solution for my 17TS-E, and looking at the prices of this and the Lee setup it is a crazy good deal too.

15
EOS Bodies / Re: A Real EOS M Replacement Coming Soon? [CR1]
« on: November 19, 2014, 11:28:19 PM »
(c) wireless remote control (without resorting to the battery draining WiFi feature)

How do you do that?

RC-6 is supported on the M (wireless infrared)

That's not really 'remote control' it is just a remote release. My understanding is the M has been remote control via USB crippled too.

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