April 16, 2014, 09:20:58 PM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - privatebydesign

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 106
Lenses / Re: Canon 50L - Love or Hate?
« on: Today at 08:42:02 PM »
The 300 f2.8 absolutely blows both the 1.2 50 and 85 L's away when it comes to bokeh orientated portrait imagery.

But, the distance required for 300mm kills a large amount of portrait situations.

True, nothing comes without effort.

But however difficult manipulating the situation is, if you want the results that 50 and 85 lenses are incapable of delivering, whatever their speed, then do what it takes. If super bokeh and shallow dof are the primary characteristics wanted of a session then you have to go where you can use a vastly superior lens.

Lenses / Re: Canon 50L - Love or Hate?
« on: Today at 07:32:48 PM »
I neither love nor hate it, and yes I have used it, indeed I owned an FD 50 1.2L for a long time.

Having said that my vote went for the nifty 50 as you didn't have a Canon 1.4 option. My copy of the Canon 1.4 gives very little away to either, I am not interested in super sharp corners and I don't find the 50, or indeed the 85 f1.2, very good focal lengths to give the background separation I like for that "dreamy bokeh" style portrait. The 300 f2.8 absolutely blows both the 1.2 50 and 85 L's away when it comes to bokeh orientated portrait imagery.

Lenses / Re: New 50mm Sigma ? There are other options !
« on: Today at 09:34:01 AM »
i never understood the comments some people make about not wanting to be a professional and ruin what they love doing. i always thought the best thing you could hope for is to get to do what you love everyday....AND have someone pay you to do it!

I understand the earlier sentiment exactly. There is a huge difference between doing something you love for the fun of it and doing it to feed your wife and kids, ask any fisherman.

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon EOS 1Ds MkIII
« on: Today at 09:20:06 AM »
NO, not unless you have a very compelling reason to NEED a 1 series body the 5D MkIII is a much better camera. Better AF, better ergonomics, vastly better iso capacity, better flash compatibility, the list just goes on and on.

I have had 1Ds MkIII's for years, and even I am tempted to sell them to move up to the 5D MkIII's, the very few 1 series features that are unique, whilst nice, are not very convincing when compared to the major features the 5D MkIII has over the abandoned 1Ds series.

Having said all that, the 1Ds MkIII is a very major upgrade from your 1Ds MkII, it was a huge upgrade, battery, screen, self cleaning sensor etc etc.

It took me quite a while to be convinced to try BBF, I was very skeptical! Well now I am happily eating my words, it is much more flexible - once you get used to it!

Agreed.  I've tried the AF-OFF approach, but I don't find it as useful.

I think its usefulness depends on your general subject matter, if you regularly shoot sports, BIF and other dynamic subjects it makes much more sense and once you are used to a way of doing it it makes sense to just use that approach for everything. If you shoot less dynamic subjects and have a camera with good off center AF points then it becomes less important, indeed it is the focus recompose scenario where I want to place the focus point out to the edge of the frame that I use BBOFF most. (I just registered BBOFF as a trademark  :) )

I tried it several times and never got the point, what I do find very useful though is AF button for AF OFF, this does the same thing in that it disconnects the AF from metering when you want, but I found I want them linked much more often than I don't want them linked.

Give both methods a try, most people I have demonstrated the idea to have found it makes more sense than the normal BBF.

"The Canon Direct Store does not sell parts.  If you wish to purchase parts, please contact our Jamesburg Parts Order Center.  They can provide you with the price and availability of the part or Ed-C Adapter you're requesting.  You may call them at (866) 481-2569 between 9 am and 7 pm ET, Monday through Friday (excluding holidays)."

So if you are in the US, call that number.  The part number is YG2-0430-000 ADAPTOR ED-C (MECH) and it is $12.16 plus $6 postage (and sales tax).

Thanks for doing the legwork on that one, I'll order mine tomorrow  :)

Canon General / Re: "MAP" pricing....How long will it last????
« on: April 15, 2014, 06:29:07 PM »
I think I understand why they try to enforce MAP pricing. They are trying to protect their dealer network; not necessarily the large retailers, but the smaller shops that can't compete on volume and can't stay in business on the small margins that internet dealers accept.

Intellectually, I am sympathetic because I see the downside to massive internet retailers like Amazon, that have little to no investment in the community. They don't pay the taxes that support schools, roads, police, etc. etc.

On the other hand, like most consumers, I am interested in maximizing my purchasing power.

So, I am conflicted.

Two points though to keep in mind.

First, MAP pricing does not affect the manufacturer's price to the retailer. When Canon or Nikon or Sony enforce MAP pricing, they aren't earning any additional profit, the higher margin goes to the retailer. They continue to sell the product to the retailer at the price they've always sold it.

Second, MAP enforcement never works. Ultimately, the market sets the price regardless of  MAP.

You are being generous.

Canon are only after protecting themselves, how does MAP do that? Well B&H, Amazon and Adorama pay less for the product than your local camera shop because of the bulk they buy it in, so the big boys can sell it all cheaper (even before we factor in the sales tax equation) which puts the small local camera retailers and outlets at a big disadvantage. This means the purchasing power migrates up the system, the small retailers can't compete so they buy even less, the big boys buy even more and demand bigger discounts, Canon sells the same amount of product but gets less money for it as it is all going to big retailers for the biggest discounts.

If Canon can maintain a viable network of retailers then the big three (or so) won't be able to become a retail cartel and start dictating prices to them.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Pentax 645z
« on: April 15, 2014, 02:14:08 PM »
It's unfortunate that the sensor size isn't even twice that of full frame, I have to wonder what it is that makes the body so much bigger when the sensor is only 10mm taller?
What's the buffer depth in RAW?

I guess it's a nice product for what it is, but I still don't see it being 3x better than a 5D3/D800.

You clearly don't have the faintest idea what you are talking about.


Lenses / Re: New 50mm Sigma ? There are other options !
« on: April 15, 2014, 12:13:03 PM »
Photography is just a hobby for me & take photo of my kids around the house :)

This is hardly the kit list for someone who take pics of their kids at home
Body: 5D III(x2) -- A7r
Zoom: 16-35L II -- 24-70L II -- 70-200L f2.8 IS II
Prime: 40mm -- 50L -- 85L II -- 135L -- 400L f2.8 IS II -- Zeiss FE 55mm f1.8

If you are not using that lot to generate some income then there is something wrong !

There are lots of very well equipped hobbyists here on CR, many seem to have very good disposable income, far more than I do as a professional photographer with much more modest gear. There is nothing wrong with that! Indeed they help keep the price down for me.

Wanting the best is natural, defining what is the best is more nuanced and seems to be learnt from tests and reviews that are generally too numbers driven in my opinion.

Lenses / Re: New 50mm Sigma ? There are other options !
« on: April 15, 2014, 12:06:48 PM »
In fairness to Dylan's example image, the forum algorithm has massacred it, if you download it and then look at it at 100% it is a much more convincing point.

Personally though I find far too much emphasis on "sharpness" nowadays, I am still using the 24-70 MkI, indeed it is my most often used lens, and I have no intention of "upgrading" it for a MkII or a selection of primes. I have never, ever, had a customer consider my images too soft, indeed I often have to soften them somewhat.

Whilst I am a very vigorous proponent of "the gear doesn't matter" school of thought in many applications (with lots of caveats for BIF, ultimate IQ etc etc) and my almost rabid passion in 100 L vs 135 L threads, once you get into image creation, rather than taking pictures, it does become interesting on what you, personally, as the image maker, find compelling. For my money the bokeh of the MkII 24-70 and the 70-200 f2.8 IS are both worse than the lower resolving MkI versions, I would happily trade "up" if the sharpness difference was essential to my images, but it isn't. For me the MkII zooms are squarely aimed at sports shooters and their publications, and a resolution and numbers influenced customer base who value sharpness as the twin cousin of subject. It is so much easier to declare how much "better" a MkII lens is if it resolves more in a review test chart.

Predominantly image makers value subtle characteristics more, some of these are hardware driven, focal length, aperture etc, but the more interesting ones are more subtle, some sharpness, some bokeh, some colour and contrast etc but don't lose sight of the fact that nowadays much of those characteristics are simply created in software, or easy to emulate in software.

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Speedlite Tutorials?
« on: April 13, 2014, 10:08:28 AM »
I am sure you are right in your description but you seem to be experienced and he appears not to be.

I think you are over-complicating it for a beginner.

Have certain basics in your mind and then alter to taste.

With experience comes the realisation that you can vary everything and end up with shots that wow.
But you have to start somewhere.!

StephenC has pointed out he is happy to work in Av and ETTL for now, and for beginner flash that is far and away the best thing to do.

I don't believe I am over complicating, I believe your inadequate meme is over simplifying, and so do true experts. If you want to give that advice and it stand up in the field you must also say to get your subject and flash exposure where you want it first, then work the ambient exposure with the shutter speed, that really isn't complicated. However explaining to a beginner why their background is now not two stops under exposed as per my example, when they followed your "rule" is a lot more complicated, un-teaching stuff is a hell of a lot more difficult than teaching it right in the first place.


Do you have a guide number chart for the Phottix Mitros+? I can't seem to find one online either for the Mitros or Mitros+. Canon's 600ex-RT has a table of guide numbers for each zoom setting in the user manual.

58 @ 105mm, it is the same as the 600, you can use the same GN at the same zoom setting.

I know the listed (on B&H et al.) is 58@105mm, I wanted to know if Phottix provides a guide number chart for all their zoom settings.

Also, it has been suggested that the Phottix Mitros flash is less powerful than its claimed specs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRg89Mqtdfw) and was wondering if this also been the case in your experience or is the Mitros+ an improvement in this regard.


Well if it is the same power at one setting common sense would dictate it is the same at others. Don't forget all these speedlite gn values are dependent on zoom, which is an anomaly as that then dictates an area of coverage that changes, the 600's even have a coverage adjustment in the custom functions, but that doesn't alter the actual light comming out of the flash.

If you want to look into the differences between specs and one individuals actual flash you need to use caution, specs tend to be very specific, but, it is very easy to measure yourself in post. I strongly suspect they are using the same flash tube and same spec though different quality capacitors and IGBT circuits.

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Speedlite Tutorials?
« on: April 12, 2014, 08:40:58 AM »
Shutter Speed controls ambient light and Aperture controls flash.

It disturbs me when people say that, especially to the inexperienced. Whilst it has some truth in that shutter speed does not affect flash power when below max sync, it is misleading in that aperture does affect ambient and flash (if the flash is in M and you don't change the power level).

Don't be disturbed.
Play with all the variables until you find what works for you. Don't poopoo what the experts teach.
One has to have some basics to build on otherwise it is the blind leading the blind.

There really is only one rule:
make sure enough light hits the sensor to give you the pic you want.
3 basic variables: iso, f-stop, shutter speed.
If you don't have a foundation to build on then you cannot make any intelligent changes to how you use your tools i.e. your camera and lights/lighting.
So: Given your chosen iso then Shutter speed controls ambient and f-stop controls flash. See what happens when you try to control flash with your shutter speed. Not much effect!
Sure you can control ambient with f-stop, but it also controls flash.
The man is a beginner with flash. Has a long and fun road to learn. Give him some basics to start with instead of knocking what experts say.

Have a great day


You misunderstand my point, besides, it very much depends on the expertise of the expert. The problem with your comment is that it isn't good advice and it isn't true, it is shorthand IF you set your two exposures up in a certain way. If you set your flash exposure first to taste then it is true, if you set your ambient first it is not true.

Think like this, I have my subject at dusk, I want the background to be 2 stops under, I set my background exposure at f8 and 1/30 sec, I now introduce my subject and flash, even at full power I can't get my subject where I need it, so I open my aperture two stops, well my ambient is now not two stops under exposed, your shorthand doesn't help the inexperienced and they don't understand what happened. Conversely, get your subject and flash exposure dialed in to full power and f4, now adjust your shutter speed to 1/125 and you are golden, both exposures are where you wanted them.

Your statement is only accurate if you also say set your flash/subject exposure first.

I agree with building foundations, I don't agree they should have fundamental cracks in them.


Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 106