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Messages - entlassen

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Lenses / Re: 24-70 2.8 L II summary of defects
« on: March 02, 2014, 12:42:28 PM »
I don't think this poll is very useful.

First of all, the original thread of the clicking zoom at http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=15231.0  was made back in June 2013.  That was 9 months ago.  Many of the people who reported that they had a problem on that 15 page (!!!) thread are probably not going to report on this poll just b/c it comes so late.

Second and more importantly, most people who get a clicking or defective lens exchange it back to the store over and over again until they get a non-defective one.  There are many people who have exchanged at least once, and there are even stories in these threads of people exchanging 5-8 times until they got a good copy.  Yet if they came to this poll, they would have to select the "no problem" option, because that's what they have now.  The poll would not capture the fact that they sent back multiple bad copies.

The poll question of "Do you have a problem" is therefore useless.  More useful would be "Have you ever received a copy that had a problem", but even this question would be inadequate because it would not accurately represent somebody who exchanged 5 lenses until they got a good one.  So the most useful poll question would be "If you bought a 24-70mm 2.8L II, how many defective copies have you received and exchanged/returned", with options 0 [received good copy first time], 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7+.

Canon General / Re: Review: Canon Speedlite Transmitter ST-E3-RT
« on: January 30, 2014, 01:51:05 PM »
I noticed that the review stated that ST-E3-RT is not capable of 2nd (rear) curtain sync.  I know a 600EX-RT attached to camera hotshoe DOES have 2nd curtain sync.  Can somebody clarify if this is a general problem with other brands too (i.e. using a Nikon dedicated commander unit on hotshoe instead of a flash), or if this is specific problem with the ST-E3-RT?

I believe that the YN-E3-RT claims to support second curtain sync (in manual mode).

Do you know if Yongnuo 603C or 622Cs also support 2nd curtain sync?
Or Pocket Wizards?

Canon General / Re: Review: Canon Speedlite Transmitter ST-E3-RT
« on: January 30, 2014, 01:47:22 PM »
I noticed that the review stated that ST-E3-RT is not capable of 2nd (rear) curtain sync.  I know a 600EX-RT attached to camera hotshoe DOES have 2nd curtain sync.  Can somebody clarify if this is a general problem with other brands too (i.e. using a Nikon dedicated commander unit on hotshoe instead of a flash), or if this is specific problem with the ST-E3-RT?

Lenses / Re: 24-70 II slight clicking sound when zooming
« on: January 04, 2014, 11:29:48 AM »
Found this thread some days ago since I was about to get this lens and I got worried about this problem.
I decided to get it since there was a good return policy and the price was great with the canon cash back.
Just got my 24-70 f/2.8 L II yesterday, a 082 and luckily the lens seems to be all good.
There is a really quiet click (more like a springing sound) just after the 24mm zooming in but it is so quiet you have to get your ear right against the barrel to hear it.

Hope this helps, registered to this forum just to post this :)

What store did you order from to get 082?

Lenses / Re: Acceptable AFMA difference for zoom between W and T ends?
« on: December 26, 2013, 04:56:16 PM »
I just sent an email to Roger Ciala and he replied back saying he would still "like to be within 3 AFMA values throughout the range of the zoom. "  I don't know if he's being a little tight on his requirements, but numerous lenses have passed through his company and that's the preference he seems to have reached.

Lenses / Re: 24-70 II slight clicking sound when zooming
« on: December 26, 2013, 04:51:22 PM »
I have a clicking on my lens. Didnt notice it on the first week, but now I can hear it if its really quiet. I cut out the ups already from the box. So I cant send it anymore for a replacement.

My 042 has a quiet tick, but my 072's tick is significantly louder such that you can hear it from several steps away.

Just wondering if anybody has kept a ticking copy who has noticed the ticking sound going away after a couple of weeks.  Basically wondering if there's like a "break in" period where after enough use the sound just goes away.  This thread has been open since June, so I'm wondering if anybody can comment who's kept a ticking lens for a while.

Lenses / Re: 24-70 II slight clicking sound when zooming
« on: December 25, 2013, 05:46:53 PM »
I've been having no luck myself.  I've tested a 042, a 072, and a 062.  All 3 make the clicking noise.  The 062's clicking is loud enough that my buddy from a couple feet away could hear it.  The 072 clicks, but worse yet it also makes a squeaking noise right as I fully contract the barrel to 24mm.

I am curious: Is there anyone who has decided to keep a copy that clicked, and found that the clicking disappears after a couple of weeks of use?  If the clicking eventually disappears after a certain amount of twisting and/or time, I might just keep one of the copies (this lottery is tiring).  If there's anybody who kept a clicking copy who is still experiencing the same amount of clicking after a couple of weeks of use, please let me know too.

Lenses / Acceptable AFMA difference for zoom between W and T ends?
« on: December 25, 2013, 02:03:56 PM »
I've got two new copies of the 24-70mm f/2.8 II (playing the zoom-tick lottery).  I'm wondering, what would be an acceptable AFMA difference between the Wide and Telephoto ends?

1st copy: -1 at 24mm and +1 at 70mm (so a difference of 2). 
2nd copy: +2 at 24mm and +7 at 70mm (so a difference of 5).

I'm pretty happy with the first copy, but I'm not sure about the second copy.  Practically, I will input the two AFMA values into my 5DM3 and it will interpolate the AFMA for focal lengths between the two extremes.  My question is more general, which is "what is an acceptable difference before you should consider returning the lens to the store?"

The main reason I'm asking this question is because I read Roger Ciala's old article about how to test a lens, and he suggested that +/-3 between the two ranges for a 4x zoom is acceptable.  Since my second copy has a difference of 5, I was wondering if I should be concerned.  I'm also curious what you guys think the biggest difference is before you'd return a lens back to the store.

My absolute requirements for an acceptable lens are:
3.  Front / backfocus is similar throughout zoom range and at near and far focusing. How similar is a judgement call, but if it changes less than +/- 3 for a 4x zoom and +/- 5 for a 10x zoom throughout the zoom range, then I’m pretty happy.

P.S.  I'm not certain about the meaning of his terminology of "4x zoom" and "10x zoom", but I'm assuming that it means it's the longer focal length divided by the shorter focal length?  So  24-70mm and a 70-200 would be <4x zoom, and a 18-200mm would be >10x zoom.  Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Lenses / Re: 24-70 II slight clicking sound when zooming
« on: December 25, 2013, 01:50:12 PM »
I just receive my copy from B&H.... no luck... don't have to put my ear next to it and I still able to hear. 

for people reading the date code. do you guys read it on the box or Warranty Card? the number on my warranty card starting with 042xxxxxxx... not sure if that is the right number I should get the date code from.

It's printed on the lens barrel itself.  It should match the code on the warranty card.

Thanks for the clarification.

I have a couple of questions related to the topic of AF:

1) When your lens is on manual and you select the 4-point or 9-point "expansion" AF modes, does the focus confirmation dot only care about the center point of the 4/9-points, or will it actually evaluate the surrounding expansion points?  And what about if you're in "Zone" AF mode?  I ask this because the Canon manual made a specific case about the 61-point auto selection (i.e. that the focus confirmation dot will only be evaluating the center point) and didn't talk too much about the two expansion modes or the Zone mode.  Just to clarify, I would never consider actually being in any of these modes when my lens is on manual (I'd just stick to Single Point AF), I'm just curious what the system would actually do.

2) A related question I had was regarding AF during Live View.
Does being in x1 vs x5 vs x10 magnification affect Live View's contrast-detect AF system at all?  In other words, does engaging the AF while in x10 have different behavior than engaging the AF while in x5 or x1?  (Perhaps more precise AF while in x10?)

One of the reasons I ask this question is because on the 5D Mark III, the AF box on the rear LCD screen actually changes size when I change the magnification.  I think the x5 and x10 AF box is the same size relative to the screen's size, but the x1 AF box is different.  The practical effect is that when I'm shooting, say, a focus chart on the wall, when I'm in x1 the AF box is surrounds the chart.  As I zoom in to x5 and x10, the AF box size changes and is now "inside" the chart.  Basically, the region of space that falls under the LV AF box changes between the three zooms, so I'm not sure if the AF is changing along with it or if it has no bearing at all and only affects what the user is seeing on the LCD.

Lenses / Re: 24-70 II slight clicking sound when zooming
« on: December 19, 2013, 07:21:50 PM »
Does anyone with the lens experience the ticking sounds disappearing for a while then coming back?  For example, you hear ticking and put the lens down for a few hours, come back, and then the ticking is gone.  But then you put it down again, come back a few hours later, and the ticks are back again?  It seems random and I'm not sure what causes it....I don't think it's temperature since the lens is in the same environment the whole time.

I've been doing AFMA tests using Spot AF.  I recently read through Focal's documentation (I haven't bought a license but am considering it) and it says that specifically for Canon bodies that testers should be using 1-Point AF and not Spot AF.  I've always used Spot AF before because I somehow thought that the more precise focus area would be more appropriate for AFMA tests, but Focal's directions make me wonder if I've been doing it wrong this whole time.  For example, if I use the LensAlign ruler, should I be shooting the target in 1-Point and not Spot?

If it's the case that using one is "correct" and using the other is "incorrect", I would greatly appreciate if someone could clarify me how the incorrect might might skew or even corrupt AFMA/focus tests.

As a related question, in the 5DM3 manual, the section titled "Manual Focusing" (p. 112), it says "with 61-point automatic selection, when the center AF point achieves focus, the focus light [dot] will light up."  I'm a little confused as to what they are saying.  When a lens is set on Manual focusing mode, Spot vs 1-Point vs Area vs etc. is irrelevant right?  Perhaps I'm reading the sentence wrong but I'm wondering why they are mentioning "automatic selection" at all when talking about Manual focusing.  Perhaps someone could clarify.


EOS Bodies / Re: EOS 5D Mark III & Third Party Batteries
« on: December 12, 2013, 02:52:47 PM »
B&H is including a free Watson brand LP-E6 with all their 5D Mark III bodies & kits (as well as their 6D offerings).  Does anyone with the newest 1.2.3 firmware installed on their 5D Mark III who also happens to have one of these Watson batteries know if the battery works?  (I'm curious if B&H is sending out a "free battery" that is incompatible with 1.2.3).

5D Mk III: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/847545-REG/Canon_5260A002_EOS_5D_Mark_III.html
Watson LP-E6: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/836612-REG/watson_b_1517_lp_e6_battery_pack_for.html

Lighting / Re: Is YN622C's Test Fire button a remote shutter release?
« on: December 05, 2013, 11:21:25 PM »
Ditto what the others say.  It won't work.

I'll give you a word of warning though... I have the Phottix wireless trigger,

and I mounted the trigger a top of the yongnuo and from a distance of maybe 10 feet, there appears to be enough interference that the phottix receiver could not register my depression of the shutter release.

So if you wind up trying to do something like that... just be aware that it might not work as seemlessly as you hope...

I think the next time I'm going to just have the phottix receiver hang off the cord giving it about 2.5 feet away from the yong transceiver.

Thanks for the heads up!  To clarify, you're using the 622's right, not the 603's?

Lighting / Re: 600EX-RT: Viability as a remote shutter release?
« on: December 05, 2013, 01:57:05 AM »
I'm scouting around for newer products and might have found a decent compromise:

It looks like Yongnuo is going to release a newer version of their old YN-622C sometime later this month or early next year.  The unit is called the YN-622C-TX and acts only as a transmitter which interacts with the existing YN-622C transceivers.  The link above does show "Remote Shutter Release" as one of its new features, which the old YN-622C doesn't have.

So it seems to me the setup would be:
YN-622C on camera hotshoe
Speedlight on YN-622C
YN-622C-TX acting as the transmitter remote
(Nothing connected to camera's 3-pin)

It seems this would resolve the following:
1) ETTL - Check
2) Camera hotshoe isn't taken up in such a way that you can't mount a flash - Check
3) No extra receiver needed for remote shutter - Check
4) No cord needed to connect receiver to camera pins - Check
5) Remote shutter release functionality - Check

This system still wouldn't leverage the RT radio functionality that's already built into one's 600EX-RT, but it seems like the cleanest one I've seen so far.

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