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Messages - Spooky

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Thanks guys for the nice comments,

That was taken at 30secs, f8, ISO400 at 105mm. Tweaked in Lightroom. The focus was off slightly and the exposure noise correction has brought in some very slight banding, but I like 'dark', grainy B&Ws... ;)

Here's another from the same viewpoint at 24mm. This time 30s, f5.6 at ISO100. The exposure time was trialled to get the best effect of the blades and clouds.

I shot the attached pic with a Hoya R72 on my 5d3 with a 24-105. Hopefully pic attached ok! I like the long exposures...
The lens choice is important compared to the body...

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Worth getting an SD card for 5D3?
« on: June 11, 2013, 12:27:59 PM »

I have both cards in my 5D3 all times. I may take out the SD if I were shooting continuous action, but I rarely do... My reasoning is that the SD cards are much cheaper, so I back up the CF shots in camera to the SD then swap out the SD to a new one and format my CF to continue. I have done this while away from home on holidays, taking 4 32G SDs and 1 16G CF.
Each to their own, it works for me. I could just use SD only but old habits and all that...! I do notice if I'm bracketing shots that there is a slight delay when writing to the SD that doesn't happen if using CF only but it is not a concern shooting landscapes.


Lenses / Re: Very Stuck Filter
« on: May 31, 2013, 07:53:49 AM »
Only a brief thought - if you are very careful! With the lens horizontal, or better, facing down, to avoid the swarf, try cutting two opposite slots on the filter edge along the lens axis, just wide enough to take something like a steel ruler and use the ruler to unscrew it (the hacksaw blade could be used but could snap!). Doing this carefully should not cause any more damage. You may need to cut several slots if there is any tight / distorted points. Just watch that you don't end up trying to turn the lens element retainer and damaging anything there.
It may be better to return to Canon who may be able to remove the end components whole... The drop may have distorted the 'roundness' and it could be impossible to unscrew, and if you did get the filter off, you may not get another one on!


Lenses / Re: Telezoom lens (70-300L vs 70-200 vs 100-400)- Advice
« on: May 19, 2013, 04:10:24 AM »
Hi Jens,

I probably shoot similar to you, landscape / travel, and bought the 70-300L for the reasons of weight, size, zoom range & quality, in that order.

I already have an old Sigma 70-200 2.8, which is ok, but I don't use it that much (my style preference is wide angle) and the weight of a 2.8 lens is considerable. It was mainly used for motorsport pics.

I did think about the 100-400 but again prefer the wider end of the range, smaller size, better IS & more modern design.

With my 5d3 or 7d, I can crop in quite a bit with the excellent IQ of the 70-300L to get the 'pic'!

I can't praise this lenses quality high enough, and you will see other posts saying the same...



Canon General / Re: Random Thoughts
« on: April 12, 2013, 08:41:59 AM »
For the photolab ask them what color profile they use and then save your image with with those settings. For example adobe rgb or srgb whatever. Calibrate your moniter (should be doing this anyway if you are a working pro). Then order a few small test prints and check if they match. If not you could adjust the image to match. For example - print is colder in tone than your screen then just change your white balance. (Its always bloody white balance!).

Also add extra sharpness in post for print.

For picky customers just explain that you're a photographer and those kinda things are not what you do. (You record the scene as it is).

Photoshop is good though for portrait retouching. I would learn that aspect as you might need to remove a zit or two and get rid of bags under eye.

Good advice... also a good idea to only retouch 'temporary' blemishes on portraits unless the client agrees / requests. You may think straightening someones wonky teeth is a must do but the owner might be proud of them and take offence!

Canon General / Re: Random Thoughts
« on: April 12, 2013, 08:06:03 AM »

Here as some ears for you  ;D ( Hope they're the right colour :P  )

Haha, very good... or you could always use the salt shakers as the new ears...

Lenses / Re: 2 filters jammed together
« on: April 12, 2013, 07:45:32 AM »
Often when trying to seperate them, applying too much grip can cause distortion and binding. Try very gently to apply light but even pressure around them and twist them apart. Another tip I came across was to use a sheet of rubber flat on a desk and place the filter / lens down onto it and twist it off instead, you can also use the grippy sole of a shoe! (Not much use for your two filters or a polariser, but more for a stuck UV on lens scenario).

Gentle heating of the UV (female thread) and cooling (ice) of the polariser (male thread) may help... or leave them stuck together and use them both when needing the polariser! ;)

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Charge new LP-E6 batter over night?
« on: April 10, 2013, 06:43:51 PM »
Having used lipo & liIon batteries for other things, in my experience they do not suffer any memory effect. What kills them is allowing them to discharge well below the minimum cell voltages. So, you can safely let the camera die, but don't then leave the cell for months on end without at least giving it some charge or it will continue to self discharge to the point of failure.
This is especially important when these cells are put into packs, such as laptops, as the cells can become unbalanced over time and lead to one or more cells discharging below their min voltage.
The Canon (single) cells seem to tolerate a fair bit of abuse and should last fine as long as there is some charge kept in them, as per comsense's post, fully recharge them after draining them. :)

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Tutorial on Auto ISO
« on: March 24, 2013, 09:16:55 AM »
The auto ISO menus allow differing setups depending on the model, which RGF has not mentioned.
If my memory serves me correctly, my 7d does not allow minimum shutter speeds, only max ISO, unlike my 5d which allows more customisation. :)

I have no issues with sharpness with my 7D, what I did find was I had to get exposure bang on and avoid under exposing to avoid noise. I also have the 5D3 and it has better latitude of exposure.
I was originally disappointed with my 7D, like others until I used AF expansion instead of 'all zones', and also using live view to focus.
I have the 50 1.4 and don't think it is particularly sharp.

Digital paradise - great pics, and good advice regarding PP.

You may have difficulty achieving everything in frame sharp if shooting close range. I find selective sharpening can create a good illusion of increased sharpness when other areas are softened.

Good luck but IMHO you don't need to trade in your 7D!

Edit- good advice privatebydesign! My thoughts too!

Lenses / Re: New wide angle lens for FF
« on: March 14, 2013, 05:32:30 AM »
Hi Alex,

Not sure that a fast AF is a big deal in landscape shooting, I now use live view for getting focus and composition nailed.

if you like primes, give the 24 TSE lens some consideration. It is pricey and manual focussing, but for landscape, giving focal plane (depth control) and sharpness, it's hard to better.
I use a 17-40 at the moment without complaint, although the corners could be better. Some have said it is sharper and is certainly cheaper, than the 16-35.
I am intrigued with the rumours regarding a Canon 12-24...
Other folks rate the Samyang wides or you could adapt a Nikon 14-24, both of course would be manual.

Lenses / Re: I'd love a little adivce...
« on: March 06, 2013, 01:36:39 PM »
80mm is 'standard' only on a MF body, and will be a short tele on the 5d. Ed will need a 35mm lens, no matter what make, as long as it can fit and have an imaging circle large enough. :)

Canon General / Re: What am I doing wrong???
« on: February 25, 2013, 03:45:26 AM »
As Eli has said above, are you using 'one shot' and toddler or you moving?

Canon General / Re: What am I doing wrong???
« on: February 25, 2013, 03:18:09 AM »
These all look like the focus is just in front of the face, not movement blurring, so shutter speed won't help. The 50 1.4 has very shallow depth of field and a my Canon one is a bit hit and miss when focussing close. I would recommend manual focus and just moving your body to achieve focus - not too easy with toddlers! Using f2  - f4 may help without gaining too much depth...
If you can, check the lens focus calibration using AFMA, if your body can do this.

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