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Messages - ForumMuppet

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1
I had an issue with a Sandisk Extreme Pro 32GB card giving an unrecognized error. After a few days I was able to format the card and take shots again. Being the card was only a month old, I contacted Sandisk explaining my lack of faith in the card not going bad and losing shots. After verifying the serial number and retailer where I purchased the card, the rep informed me the Extreme Pro cards are guaranteed for life and gave me a new replacement. From that customer service experience, I will only use Sandisk Extreme Pro cards moving forward. :)

If you have not already done so, I would suggest contacting the Sandisk customer service for a replacement card.

2
Software & Accessories / Re: New Sandisk Extreme Pro CF cards
« on: September 24, 2013, 06:46:13 PM »
Shooting with:

Canon 1DX
Canon 300 f/2.8 IS II
@ 2.8, 1/1600 ISO 100

Old card hit the buffer at 42 frames while the new 160mb version filled the buffer at 51 frames. I did not clock the time between buffer full and bursting again, but the newer card seemed to free up for a second burst much faster. So fast in that when I was panning for Indy Cars on track the camera was still firing away when the car was long gone. So my test consisted of a car just getting further and further away to see when it stopped shooting. LoL overall, there is a noticeable difference in the older Extreme Pro and the new ones.

3
Software & Accessories / Re: New Sandisk Extreme Pro CF cards
« on: September 24, 2013, 02:41:45 AM »
I have both cards. I'll be shooting at an Indy Car test day tomorrow. I can test the burst between the new and old Extreme Pro cards tomorrow.

4
Sports / Indy Car Test Day
« on: September 18, 2013, 04:11:57 AM »
For those of you in the Southern California area, the Izod Indy Car Series will be having a test day in Fontana on Tuesday, September 24. The event is free to the public and if you are going to the race in October they are holding a Q&A session with the drivers, too. That should be good for some nice candid portraits.

http://www.autoclubspeedway.com/Tickets-Events/Events/INDYCAR-Weekend/INDYCAR-Test.aspx

5
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Back button and focus points 5diii
« on: September 18, 2013, 04:00:33 AM »
It really all depends on your subject and the environment in which you are shooting. If you are exclusively doing portrait work where you are posing your subject that would probably be fine. Because you have the time to setup the shot exactly how you like it. But if you are shooting fast moving subjects that will not be in the same place for long, then you may need to look at using some of the other points as well, to better have an opportunity for making the shot. It sounds like from your original post that you are in a controlled posing environment where single point re-compose will work just fine. If that works for you, have fun. The center point on a 5D3 is a dual cross type point that should give you as good, if not more, of a chance to lock on to your subject as any of the other AF points.

6
Lenses / Re: Big price Drop On the EF-S 17-55 f2.8 IS USM
« on: September 17, 2013, 07:20:12 PM »
...I will wait until it will goes up and then sell it easy for $850 :)

I will wait 'til you are pissed and list it for $550. ;)

7
Software & Accessories / Re: New Sandisk Extreme Pro CF cards
« on: September 17, 2013, 01:47:14 PM »
I will know tomorrow.  :D

8
Lenses / Re: Question regarding drop-in circular polarizing filter
« on: September 17, 2013, 01:45:26 PM »
I do not have one, yet, but another benefit is that it will allow you to slow your shutter speeds down a bit to get wheel motion in bright daylight without having to raise your f-stop. Otherwise you may as well wait for the race to be done and go shoot them in the pits. ::)

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Software & Accessories / Re: rain protection
« on: September 16, 2013, 03:16:09 PM »

10
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon 6D + 24-105 L combo not that great?
« on: September 16, 2013, 12:18:45 PM »
While I do not have the exact copy of 6D and 24-105mm lens you were using to say for sure, I would guess it is more likely your settings than the camera/lens combo. It could also be track position and which focus settings you were using. The first thing I would do is never go into Av at a drag race. If anything it would be Tv and keep your shutter above 1/1600 unless panning. Then 1/250-1/400 would be best for top fuel. You could go down into 1/100-1/160 for Pro Stock or some of the eliminator categories. I actually crank up the shutter to 1/4000-1/8000 for the fuel categories. Examples here.

As many others have already requested, can you provide some of your images to debug along with the exif data or camera settings? That would help out a great deal here.

11
Lenses / Supertele + drop-in cpl
« on: September 12, 2013, 10:04:38 PM »
For those of you with big white primes and the drop-in cpl. Do you leave the filter installed 24/7 and dial it in/out as needed for every shot, or do you take it out and only insert it when the shot dictates it?

12
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 1DX New Quick Custom Function Shooting Mode
« on: September 12, 2013, 08:22:51 PM »
A feature find this helpful is worth the revival for those of us new to the 1D X world...

One thing I would add here is that the AE* custom setting recall feature is one that you can setup for all different standard shooting modes. What I mean by this is that you can setup different recall settings when you are in M than are set when you are in C1 vs C2 vs C3, etc. So that gives you up to 8 different custom recall options. Of course this is not something you could switch to quickly having to remember what all 8 are and what option you have programmed in your current mode. But one use I found to be very cool about this is, that you can setup shooting setups that compliment each other. For instance, if I have C1 setup for fast motorsports I can set AE* to be panning motorsports. So with a simple press of a button I can go from C1-Manual to Tv  1/125 + auto ISO for a few panning bursts and then back to C1-Manual for more speed shooting. This is something I wish existed on the 7D or 5D3.

Very cool!

13
I have the RRS B2-LLR-II mounted directly to the monopod itself. No head at all. That cuts down on the weight and I find that when using a monopod that I do not need a head to pivot. If I need angle I just tilt the entire unit as a whole. But then again there are not may hillsides on a race track or sports field where I am shooting. :)

I know you did not ask for it, but if you are in the market to get a new monopod as well I would suggest the Oben Carbon Fiber monopod from B&H as the prices just went down. You can get a nice 4 or 5-section one for less than $100. Plus the RRS clamp would take you to just under $230. It's a little more than your stated budget, but you did say that could be stretched.  ;)

14
I had originally bought the 24-105 last summer for around $1100. Then I bought a 5D3 w/ 24-105 as the kit. The difference in price of the kit and non-kit was $800. A coworker was looking at getting that lens so I sold him my "old" one for the kit price difference of $800 and I kept the one that came with the 5D3 in the kit. You could either look at it as I took a $300 loss on the sale, or that I just traded it for a newer one and the price was a wash. If I now sell the 24-105 that came with the kit is where I would see taking the loss because no way I would get $1100 for it. So, what I have decided to do is keep it for a backup camera that I keep in my desk at work for those days I want to go shooting at lunch. That also gives me an excuse to buy a work camera body to keep in my desk with this lens. :)

15
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Sports Shooting Options?
« on: September 10, 2013, 04:07:41 AM »
Initially I was going to suggest waiting for the 7DII to come out and drive the price of the 7D down a little. But if you can get it for $300-500 that is already pretty low. I just sold my 7D for $1000 last week. When you are looking at the 70-200 I, is that the f/2.8 or the f/4? If that is the f/2.8 I would suggest that package. If it is the f/4, I would say the 70-300. One thing you could also do is keep the 6D and put everything into a 70-200 f/2.8 II + a 1.4 TC III. The 6D can take the ISO up enough to get the shutter speeds you need for night sports without too much noise being introduced.

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