Please... Inquiring minds would like to know...
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My advice, in all seriousness, is don't. It will be a letdown. Tilt with the 17 is very difficult to achieve accurately with live view anyway as the gearing is far to coarse, a fraction of a turn, even the pressure of your finger on the knob, will move the plane of focus some distance at moderate J point distances.
As for having tilt lenses prior to Live View, this is true, but they were not 17mm ones and the wider the lens the more difficult the accurate adjustment.
Failing that make some basic J point measurements, and use a tilt table (Northlight has one for the 17mm), it will work well enough.
You can hand-hold an ND grad for a few seconds, but not for the 30 seconds, 90 seconds, 120 second exposures needed for that.
+1. That's the setup I've been using for a while (82mm expensive filters + step up rings as needed). In fact, I think it was you Neuro who recommended the brass B+W step up rings that I ended up buying and using!Might just have to get the 16-35/4L IS. Selling the 16-35/2.8L II would cover the cost. Less than 15% of my 16-35L shots are wider than f/4, and of those a reasonable fraction are of static subjects where 3-4 stops of IS would be of more benefit than 1 stop of light. Sharper would be welcome, too.
Bummer (for me) about the 77mm filter size, as the 24-70/2.8L II and TS-E 24L II both use 82mm, as does the 16-35/2.8L II. I have the needed filters in 77mm (B+W Käsemann CPL, 10-stop ND, and the Lee WA adapter), it just means carrying them, too.
No, just get a 77 to 82 step up ring and use the 82mm filters you are carrying on the 77mm lens.
Smacks the side of my head. Already have a 77→82mm ring, actually, and it'll likely go on after the hood just fine.
The B+W filters are made of brass, the step up rings are anodized aluminum.
Keep a filter wrench handy