October 01, 2014, 07:36:25 PM

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Messages - RLPhoto

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1
Lighting / Re: Recommendations for lighting system
« on: Today at 07:35:38 PM »
I'd get a strobe system or at least rent one for the bigger products. Profoto equipment is usually what rental places have but if your going to buy your own system, PCB einsteins have to be the best value right now.

On another note, product photography is not my forte per say but I found myself with a local client who manufactures SMT vacuum nozzles. (Absolute tiny things.) Here is a photo I used done with einsteins + 36" stripboxs+reflectors. I would stay away from speedlites as they just don't have the Mods to make you life easier when shooting tiny products.

I recommend visiting photigy.com for some serious schooling on product photography and its free.

2
Lighting / Re: Speedlites - How many are enough?
« on: Today at 06:01:21 PM »
Hyper sync - long duration flash over the entire curtain movement

True high sync speeds - standard sync method but @ above 1/250th. (Which is still the best and most efficient but expensive.)

HSS - pulsed flash over the duration of the curtain movement.

I think you misread my comment, all of these methods are ways of syncing at High speeds, hence HSS but the most true form is the traditional method and the others are a workaround.

There is nothing 'true' or 'high sync speed' when sync'ing above 1/250th or 1/180th or even 1/60th.  HSS is sync'ing multiple bursts over a curtain movement - where the sync is with the slit being exposed is perfectly timed with the speedlites.  Sync'ing with a Leaf shutter doesn't involve multiple bursts.

Sync'ing with a 'slow' strobe or speedlight where your shutter speed is faster than the lights t.1 time is just that, dealing with slow lights.  The issue is that you're not going to get even exposure over the frame, let alone between shots.

Now, with all that said, with the faster studio lights, like Einsteins in the fast mode, or the Bron Move2 packs that'll do a 1/10,000 flash duration, you can 'sync' at 1/125th or even slower, and 'freeze' your subject with light.  Then, all sync'ing at a faster speed does is allow you to kill the ambient light.
I don't get what your point is with this comment but whatever.

3
I like the tamron. It's one of the lenses that shifted my perspective on third party lenses like the sigma 35mm Art. It's sharp, affordable,  and has VC. VC alone makes this lens worth the investment and having used the old tank 24-70mm mkI, you couldn't give me one now. I didn't pay full price for mine and got it for 800$ on Craigslist. (Which I lose virtually nothing in the resale when it happens)

4
If I knew half what I knew now when I started I would have smacked myself upside the head. A few hours of study would have been far more useful.

5
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Nikon's 2.300$ D750 said to best 5DIII
« on: September 30, 2014, 04:31:28 PM »
Possibly better in every way from a 5D3 but doesn't have an EF mount or the RT system I've come to depend on. Natural light shooters will love this camera. Perhaps if 5d4 is disappointing, releases some proper Nikkor primes that aren't slugs and Nikon revamps their flash lineup, I would consider switching

6
Lighting / Re: First Flash
« on: September 30, 2014, 09:56:23 AM »
430 ex II. Simply because it will work reliably with TTL as I've had some funky performance with third party flashs exposure being wacky. Once you understand TTL then you can move to manual flash exposure.

7
Lighting / Re: Speedlites - How many are enough?
« on: September 29, 2014, 02:36:27 PM »

Hyper sync - long duration flash over the entire curtain movement

True high sync speeds - standard sync method but @ above 1/250th. (Which is still the best and most efficient but expensive.)

HSS - pulsed flash over the duration of the curtain movement.


Agree on all counts, I'd just point out the often overlooked problem with flash duration and power output for "True high sync speeds", at this point in time full power flash pulses are not that fast, the Einstein for instance, which is often used as a perfect example of short flash duration, has a full power discharge duration of 1/588 of a second, and when we are opening up our lenses for narrow dof and balancing ambient and flash that full power can easily be used.
Which at full power durations are slower, you will lose some power depending on how fast your strobe is (slower the worse), and will eat up your VML battery quicker.

8
Lighting / Re: Speedlites - How many are enough?
« on: September 29, 2014, 11:24:10 AM »
We really need to stop calling lights with long durations and tuned to cover the time the shutter blades are exposing the sensor HSS, the two work in a fundamentally different way, long duration is not HSS, and both cost a massive amount of power.
Hah! Interesting point. HSS...strictly technically no but practically yes. What is it that defines "true HSS"?

We may have strayed from the strict HSS definition, but it's a useful terminology that people understand.
Think of it as living language. The acronym HSS communicates a function....High Speed Sync. Simple enough.

So what do we call it? We're achieving flash sync at a high shutter speed. We understand the limitations such as significant power loss, but it's still a very useful, relevant creative tool. Sounds a bit HSS-ish to me!

-pw
That is a grey area but let's call it what it originally was called Hyper sync. That version of sync causes you to lose tremendous power out of the strobe, flash duration and will eat through your VMLs quicker. In a sense, it's a work around but not a solution if you still need maximum power and short durations.

True high sync speed out of a x100/leaf shutter cameras is actual HSS. One pop within the full opening of the sensor and closing at above normal sync speeds.

Only if the flash duration happens in the time that the shutter is fully open, which at close to full power is never the case. Leaf shutter sync above "normal" speeds relies on very short flash duration. It is easy to prove because raising the flash power won't increase exposure (or even worse uneven exposure/heavy vignetting), leaf shutters work like an effective second aperture.

And I'd probably disagree with your definition of HSS, because it isn't "one pop within the full opening of the sensor", HSS is multiple flashes timed such that the exposure is even across the frame. I am not looking for a fight, just laying out the way it works.

I think the key is the difference between relying on very long (hypersync) or short (leaf shutters) duration flash, and pulsed "HSS" flash via modern IGBT circuitry. Hyper sync relies on long flash duration and no flashes give off even light across the duration of the exposure, though it is often even enough to be good. Leaf shutter sync relies on very fast flash duration which doesn't happen with high flash outputs.

This core difference in newer and older flash tech is where so many doors have been opened, but they have been workarounds and kludges. The plethora of new battery powered "studio" strobes like the Profoto B1 and the Phottix Indra 500 TTL, a Yongnuo version etc, all have genuine HSS IGBT pulsed flash capabilities, as could the Einstein if PCB ever decided to write the firmware.
Hyper sync - long duration flash over the entire curtain movement

True high sync speeds - standard sync method but @ above 1/250th. (Which is still the best and most efficient but expensive.)

HSS - pulsed flash over the duration of the curtain movement.

I think you misread my comment, all of these methods are ways of syncing at High speeds, hence HSS but the most true form is the traditional method and the others are a workaround.

9
Lighting / Re: Speedlites - How many are enough?
« on: September 29, 2014, 09:19:23 AM »
We really need to stop calling lights with long durations and tuned to cover the time the shutter blades are exposing the sensor HSS, the two work in a fundamentally different way, long duration is not HSS, and both cost a massive amount of power.
Hah! Interesting point. HSS...strictly technically no but practically yes. What is it that defines "true HSS"?

We may have strayed from the strict HSS definition, but it's a useful terminology that people understand.
Think of it as living language. The acronym HSS communicates a function....High Speed Sync. Simple enough.

So what do we call it? We're achieving flash sync at a high shutter speed. We understand the limitations such as significant power loss, but it's still a very useful, relevant creative tool. Sounds a bit HSS-ish to me!

-pw
That is a grey area but let's call it what it originally was called Hyper sync. That version of sync causes you to lose tremendous power out of the strobe, flash duration and will eat through your VMLs quicker. In a sense, it's a work around but not a solution if you still need maximum power and short durations.

True high sync speed out of a x100/leaf shutter cameras is actual HSS. One pop within the full opening of the sensor and closing at above normal sync speeds.

10
Photography Technique / Re: Can Recommend Ready made website
« on: September 27, 2014, 07:12:50 PM »
Squarespace or viewbook. I'm currently using a viewbook but I've been looking hard at moving to squarespace.

11
Photography Technique / Re: Why 3:2 aspect ratio?
« on: September 26, 2014, 11:03:53 PM »
I think Leica had something to do with it but... I'm slowly starting to dislike the 3:2 ratio the more I shoot MF. 4:3 feels and crops much better for my work.

12
Looks like the a7r will be your landscape cam. Now you can shorten your posts to a link to this thread when the issue rises.

As for Lee jay, I would say a bounce flash.

13
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Why haven't you left canon?
« on: September 26, 2014, 09:54:52 PM »
Explain.

I added a MF system but I don't think that counts as jumping ship.

14
Lighting / Re: Speedlites - How many are enough?
« on: September 26, 2014, 09:50:47 PM »
I have 5x 600rts + yougnuo ste3 transmitter. I decided that if I needed more than that setup, the subject matters needs to be lit with a big light system IE: my PCB Einsteins.

You'll hit a point of diminishing returns on speed lites once you go beyond two lights per softbox. To gain a stop, you'll need 4x lights and so on to 8x lights... etc.

I found five+transmitter is enough for me.

15
Thanks for telling us what we already know.

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