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Messages - unadog

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1
EOS-M / Re: Another great toy for EOS-M
« on: June 03, 2014, 10:55:18 PM »
I ABSOLUTELY LOVE my EOS M! Great little camera.

I was looking on DxO Optics. The 22 mm kit lens on the EOS M - that costs $95 new on eBay - is as sharp as my Canon 24-70 2.8 II on my Canon T4i. Not bad for a $250 camera & lens combo!!  :)

I have a Hoodman viewfinder that I use on my EOS M - same basic thing.

I have found, though, that by turning the LCD to full brightness, I can see it in full sunshine with no problem. 

I tested it, turning fully around in a 360 degree circle. The only place I had trouble was when my face was fully lit my the sun, when my subject was backlit, for about 20 degrees of the arc. I could solve the problem just by tilting a ball cap down trp shade my face.

The rest of the time, I had no problem seeing the LCD with brightness all of the way up.

One tip: You can program the "Trash Can" button to increase the LCD to full brightness. Works great!

Otherwise I use the "Trash Can" button to change ISO. I put the Custom Function to select the mapping of that button on "My Menu."

I never need to change ISO in bright sunlight, so it works perfectly to switch that to the LCD brightness ...

Good luck!
Michael

2
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon EOS M Vanishes from Canon USA Web Site
« on: May 27, 2014, 03:11:56 PM »
Now that it dropped so dramatically in price,
buying it was a no-brainer.

And wow - I can't remember having had so much
fun with a camera ever before.
 

THIS!

I am a former pro, 30 years out from getting an undergraduate degree in Photography.

I bought 2 EOS M a couple of months ago. It is the first camera that I just pick up and play with every day in at least 10 years. It is just such a great little camera!

I am eagerly looking forward to an EOS M3 with Dual Pixel Auto Focus. I hope we get one soon, probably at Photokina?

The EOS M2 is $660 on eBay direct from Japan. I'd like to see the entry level EOS M at a bit less than that with the 18-55 kit, then I think it would be more of a success in the US. The NEX 6 looks like it is selling pretty well at $525 with the kit lens.

We will see!

3
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 70d center focus point -bug- problem
« on: May 16, 2014, 12:11:54 PM »
OLD Lens  Versus NEW Lens



http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/07/autofocus-reality-part-ii-1-vs-2-and-old-vs-new

The OLD Canon 24mm f/2.8 lens was released in 1988 making it one of the oldest designed Canon lenses available.

 while the NEW Canon 24mm f/2.8 IS USM was just released last year.


GRAPHS IN ORDER:

1.) The OLD 24 mm on an OLD 5D Mk2

2.) The OLD 24 2.8 on a NEW 5D M3

3.) The  NEW 24 2.8 IS on a NEW 5D M3


Look at that last graph! Newer lenses are amazingly good on a newer body.

4
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 70d center focus point -bug- problem
« on: May 16, 2014, 11:40:46 AM »
More text from that article:

"Let me again differentiate ‘testing quality focus’ from ‘picture taking focus’.

If I was taking a 3-Dimensional picture, all of the images above the 850 line would be virtually indistinguishable. The two phase-detection shots that are lower would probably be acceptable; if you were comparing identical shots you might notice the two had slightly missed focus, but not horribly.

But when we’re assessing a 2-dimensional test chart, that would be enough to make the lens look unacceptable.

Phase detection accuracy is different with different cameras and even with different lenses on the same camera. The pair used in this example are quite accurate; not the very best, but better than average. The very best (in these conditions) we’ve tested, the Canon 5DIII or 1Dx with certain lenses, are nearly as accurate as contrast detection AF.


Good microfocus adjustment lets the phase detection system focus at the proper location, but it can’t make the pattern of variation much smaller. (If MF adjustment is really off, the pattern can be bigger than this, but this is about as good as it gets.)

One other point that will become more apparent with the next two posts: some of the most sensitive indicators of a decentered lens are seen when it’s just barely out of focus. So the testing I’m going to describe will require evaluating the lens both in focus, and just barely out of focus in both directions. You can’t do that kind of evaluation with phase-detection AF.

So What’s Next?

This first post was to demonstrate that hand-held, autofocus optical testing isn’t very useful. If you want to test a lens using autofocus go take pictures and see if you like the lens, which is really what I recommend everyone do, anyway.


5
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 70d center focus point -bug- problem
« on: May 16, 2014, 11:36:47 AM »
Roger Cicala: "Why You Can't Optically Test Your Lens With Autofocus"

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2014/02/why-you-cant-optically-test-your-lens-with-autofocus

To summarize my point, if I am checking a lens like our techs do all day, manual focus is simply much more accurate than phase-detection autofocus.
 



6
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 70d center focus point -bug- problem
« on: May 16, 2014, 11:30:37 AM »
What we need to see to know if there really is a problem is an autofocus test similar to those done by Roger Cicala.

Every auto focus system will deliver a range of values. Look at how he measured the accuracy of focus on different bodies and different lenses.

He did 10 repeated focus attempts with phase detection and manual focus. Gave us the standard deviation of the focus error.

Compared that between older Canon bodies and newer Canon bodies. And also found out that newer lenses focused more accurately.

So you need to repeat the focus test 10 times, because it will vary. Measure those errors. Use one of the newer Canon lenses. And compare that to cameras of the same class - 60D, 50D, T4i.

SHOW US THE STATISTICALICAL ANALYSIS. ACCOUNT FOR KNOWN VARIATION IN PERFORMANCE.

Show that you understand the system well enough to demonstrate an anomoly.

Most of this is just people finally learning how auto focus works.

Please, read these articles. Then we can talk:

Roger Cicala's posts on auto focus:

Autofocus Reality Part 1

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/07/autofocus-reality-part-1-center-point-single-shot-accuracy

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/07/autofocus-reality-part-ii-1-vs-2-and-old-vs-new

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/08/autofocus-reality-part-3b-canon-ca


Roger Cicala: "Why You Can't Optically Test Your Lens With Autofocus"

 http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2014/02/why-you-cant-optically-test-your-lens-with-autofocus

7
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 70d center focus point -bug- problem
« on: May 15, 2014, 09:18:17 PM »
This issue really says one thing: DPAF rocks! Some of the videos out there are pixel peeping at 200% to notice the difference. This is not a new issue, but since live view focusing is suddenly super accurate people start to realize that phase detection AF has acceptable tolerances. That is why AFMA was created.

This is a great summary!

Luds34's post was also spot on.

I don't mean to be mean to anyone, but this is very sophisticated equipment in many ways. What people are describing as a defect is 1.) Present on every camera made, and 2.) User error ...

Cheers!

8
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 70d center focus point -bug- problem
« on: May 15, 2014, 09:16:04 PM »
LOL I like this post alot :D

I suppose it is a bit mean, at least that last line is.  :)

But the only ones who should take offense to that are the ones who insist that "if you don't have a problem, you don't know how to use your camera." 

Just another internet conspiracy theory. Lots of talk in those threads about how widespread the problem is, how "1 in 1,000 defects is too many", how Canon is hiding it the problem, etc.

People just need to educate themselves. 

Cheers!

9
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 70d center focus point -bug- problem
« on: May 15, 2014, 03:42:36 PM »
Have gone through the POTN thread and some people there are even implying that people "without" this problem do not know how to use their cameras. So, I guess the people posting excellent shots on the 70d sample thread don't know how to use their 70ds.

Ah - the dreaded "Dunning-Kruger Effect":

"The skills needed to produce logically sound arguments, for instance, are the same skills that are necessary to recognize when a logically sound argument has been made. Thus, if people lack the skills to produce correct answers, they are also cursed with an inability to know when their answers, or anyone else's, are right or wrong. They cannot recognize their responses as mistaken, or other people's responses as superior to their own."


"The Dunning-Kruger effect occurs where people fail to adequately assess their level of competence — or specifically, their incompetence — at a task.

This lack of awareness is attributed to their lower level of competence robbing them of the ability to critically analyse their performance, leading to a significant overestimate of themselves. Put more crudely, they're too stupid to realize they're stupid."

10
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 70d center focus point -bug- problem
« on: May 15, 2014, 03:10:39 PM »
I also why "30-50 percent of cameras in Germany" have this problem....


Hysteria!! :)


The second video should have taken this on much more strongly. This is just nonsense,

1. YOU CANNOT HAND HOLD AN 85 1.2 or 50 1.4 and hit your focus target consistently wide open!

2. YOU CANNOT FOCUS AND RECOMPOSE wide open!  The camera needs to be locked down on a tripod for these tests.

3.  You have to learn A LOT about autofocus to understand how to accurately test your focus.

From Roger Cicala: "Why You Can't Optically Test Your Lens With Autofocus"

 http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2014/02/why-you-cant-optically-test-your-lens-with-autofocus


4. You have to learn A LOT about autofocus to understand the different features/settings on auto focus.

Anyone who has ever owned a 1DX, for example, will tell you that they had to study the auto focus manual for that camera to learn all of the features. And then test like hell to underastand exactly how to use it in the field.

One example: You can select and set the sensitivity of first shot "focus acquisition  priority or shutter release priority."Basically - do you want the camera to ensure absolute best focus before taking a shot, or have a bias toward taking the shot no matter what?


Then you can also tune that for subsequent shots. And that is just one of the focus modes.  This is a 55 page book we are talkinmg about:

"Mastering the EOS 1D X's Autofocus System"

http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2012/1dx_guidebook.shtml


Also time to read up on more of Roger Cicala's posts on auto focus:

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/07/autofocus-reality-part-1-center-point-single-shot-accuracy

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/07/autofocus-reality-part-ii-1-vs-2-and-old-vs-new

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/08/autofocus-reality-part-3b-canon-cameras


These people need to be educate themselves and digest that information before we can talk about an issue with the 70D.  This is just the way that the world works.

When Roger tells me that there is a problem with the 70D, I will believe him. :)

Cheers!






11
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 6D + 24-105 vs T4i + 24-70 II
« on: January 14, 2013, 07:03:31 PM »
I'll disagree.

I have the T4i and the 5DIII.  I have owned the 24-70 for many years, first version I and now II.

The T4i is a great camera. The true cost to own is very, very low. If you buy the body for $600 or less, the per year cost to own - depreciation - is going to be less than $100 per year, maybe as low as $50.  Buy it for $600,, use it for 2 years, sell for $475 or more. Incredibly cheap for incredibly much camera.

As a pro, the ONLY reason I keep the 5DIII in addition to the T4i is for ISO 6400 and above. Otherwise I could live with the T4i as my main camera.

The 24-105 is good, but I sold mine to go back to my bread and butter 24-70. I use that for 85% or more of my work.

Add the 17-40 for $500 and you are covered on the wide end.  Or buy the 18-135 STM for video and wide angle.

Wait for Canon to launch a brand new sensor before you upgrade to full frame. It will cost you next to no money to buy & use the T4i. Then you can keep it as a backup camera.

If you are going to listen to others advice, listen to those who HAVE OWNED the T4i. Many who haven't just don't "get" that camera. The sensor is basically as good as/the same as the other Canon sensors right now, just in a crop. The auto focus is the same as the Canon 60D.

Good luck.
Michael

12
I dial in +2/3 stops on ALL Of my cameras, and leave it there 95% of the time.

That is true on my Canon T4i, 5DIII, 1DX, and on the Nikon D3200 and Sony NEX 5n that I have owned this year.

Same on them all to push the histogram to the right. I shoot RAW+JPEG anyway and adjust in post, but you want to make use of the right hand of the histogram , as there is more total "data" for you to work with in post.

Someone else mentioned that in passing as "Shoot to the Right."


There is also a Canon 44 page White Paper on the 1DX auto focus that also applies to the 5DIII that you should read.  It will help you understand all of the incredible tools you have for shooting sports with focus tracking, etc.


Have fun!  Great camera, lots of great tools, but it requires a bit of us on the back end.  8)


13
within a week it was back, with the under-exposure corrected, albeit with about 6,000 exposures added to the count!

I doubt that they took that many images.

If you take a card from Camera A, that had 10,000 total images taken, and put it into Camera B that has only 10 images, the next file number on Camera B, the "10 image camera", will be 10,001.

If you want a lower image number, just reset the internal counter to "0".  On the menu, under Image Numbering, just select "Manual Reset", then leave it at "Continuous" like it was.   It will start over again with 00001. 

That will not affect tools like eoscount.com that can tell how many total images the camera has taken. Or if you put all of your images in Lightroom, you can just see how many total images you have there.

14
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Wrong colors with my 5D MKIII?
« on: December 15, 2012, 11:57:58 AM »
White balance is just the first step.

1) Buy a good neutral grey tone card and use it. They are only about $15-$20.  You can't count on other items to actually be neutral.

You take a photo of that card in the same light that you are shooting in, with the card filling the frame, then you set the "Custom White Balance" using that picture.

Using Auto White Balance will give you a series of images all with slightly different color balance. If you first take a  picture of people in front of a bright yellow wall, then in front of a blue wall, the camera will "average" the color to very different temperatures. 

Don't take that the wrong way - Canon AWB is very, very good, especially on the 5DIII and the 1DX. But it is a tool that the user has to understand to get it to work properly.


2) Then you need to understand the Picture Profiles and set those correctly to get **the color that you want**.

The Picture Profiles on Canon are Landscape, Portrait, Neutral, Faithful, etc.  I use "Neutral".  They will all give you a slightly different look. If you have Lightroom, shoot a RAW image, then flip through all of the Profiles in Lightroom and you will see how the image changes. You are in control of picking that look for the effect that you want.

For the most control, you should be shooting RAW all of the time (I shoot RAW + JPEG and have shot nothing else for 10+ years, even family snaps.) Then you can apply the correct Profile in Lightroom or whatever tool (and set you White Balance there.)  BUT, you still should set the custom White Balance in camera.

Even with the Picture Profile set to "Neutral", I still dial in -4 on "Saturation", - 2 "Contrast" and turn off sharpening for the JPEGs when shooting RAW + JPEG, and to set up the look on the rear LCD and the Histogram on the camera.


3) Finally, if you want to control color for best representation for food shots, etc., you should profile your camera using a tool like Color Checker Passport to get to a true neutral color balance.  Just like you **MUST** profile your monitor and printer for accurate results, the camera also should be profiled to control device-to-device variation.


If that is way more than you need right now that is fine.  The 3 types of color control go from "global" and basic to more refined. 

I just wanted to head off any perception people reading this thread might have that the 5DIII is not good on color, AWB, etc.  Basically these are all tools that require a certain understanding to get the results that you want.   Nothing wrong with that, and it is a learning curve for us all.  But the tool is state of the art!

Cheers,
Michael

15
EOS Bodies / Re: More 6D sample images - with RAW files.
« on: November 30, 2012, 05:15:19 PM »
Great, many thanks!
Can you post comparisons so we can see how it goes versus the 5DIII and the D600?

Sure! Give me a couple of minutes!

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