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Messages - steliosk

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1
Lenses / Re: 100mm 2.8 vs 85mm 1.8
« on: August 08, 2014, 07:02:23 PM »
i both have the 85 1.8 and the 100L
and the 70-200 2.8 IS II

i gotta say, each lens is for a different purpose.

the 85 1.8 has very nice bokeh, but suffers from CA, the good news is that its cheap and lightweight
the bad news except the CA is the minimum distance.. you can't "crop" a face with it as you would with the 100L
many many times i find this issue irritating and thats my main difference with the 85 1.8 which is a great lens.

The 100L is made for macro, which means that you won't have that softness as you would with the 85 1.8
way too contrasted but excellent image quallity, and nice build. Plus the IS and of course you can shoot tight portraits with it without cropping in post afterwards.

The 70-200 2.8 does a bit of everything. The good news is that this lens is sharp and focuses blazing fast. It doesn't think. It acts.
The bad news except the cost is the weight.. not versatile. I use this one for weddings mostly where i need a tiny window to shoot through at 135-200mm @ 2.8 but not to take photos of children at home. hell no. It is scary and uncomfortable.

I'd probably use the 85 1.8 or the 50 1.4 which i also have and love for that

Bottomline:
if i have space and time to play with i'd use the 85 1.8
if not, 70-200 2.8
I think i'm gonna sell the 100L, i'm too lazy to shoot macro anyway. Besides macro lenses are useless without proper lighting.

2
Lenses / Re: What Lenses are missing from Canon's range
« on: July 21, 2014, 07:25:38 AM »
lens missing?

NEW 1.2 and 1.4 glasses
24mm
35mm
50mm
85mm

24-120 f/4
28-135 replacement

14-24 a MUST

a 12mm prime would be nice too
Sigma's 12-24 is a nice toy but way too soft in term of sharpness :(

3
EOS Bodies / Re: ISO D+ function
« on: June 29, 2014, 07:52:54 AM »
Hi wickidwombat

I made the test
2 shots using same ISO (200), speed and f stop
one shot with D+ and another one without
the one with D+ gave me better color results in the overexposed areas when lowering the highlights in ACR

4
EOS Bodies / Re: ISO D+ function
« on: June 29, 2014, 07:42:26 AM »
Highlight Tone Priority (HTP) increases a bit the dynamic range.
in a few words: it helps the overexposed areas in recovery also in RAW

The other one named "Auto lighting optimizer" actually increases the midtone curve in jpeg (useless in raw)

In order to check it out take a shot of a lamp or a candle, with HTP on and off and try to recover the highlights in RAW (i use adobe camera raw)
You'll find out that the color and the depth of information is richer with the one that HTP is on.

Now the bad news:
Although canon has reached high ISOs where you can shoot in low light it hasn't been able for ages to fix the noise in low ISOs. (wondering why nobody is screaming about it, except me)

When you enable the HTP the minimum ISO you get is 200
and yes its NOISY as hell in the shadows. it sure ain't as clean as 100.

So i don't recommend HTP when shooting landscape. Get a tripod and use bracketing and merge them somehow after in post process or do HDR.

But if you are a handheld shooter and you need your camera to suck all the dynamic range there is, i suggest you turn HTP on and kill the noise with some noise reduction.

5
- faster SD card slot
- dual SD (get rid of that ancient and expensive CF)

Your position. Hopefully they won't do that.

Quote
- and yes.. MORE DR please.. kill that banding in the shadows, buy sensors from Sony for Christ sake as nikon does.
- more mp like 40mp (and 20mp mRAW) that those great lenses such as 24-70 2.8 II, 70-200 2.8 II and 16-35 f/4 can handle!

Why do you need a Canon, just grab the latest Nikon with your fancy Toshiba/Sony/Whatsoever-Sensor and get lucky. I don't understand why you bought a 5DM3 when everything inside is wrong for you, even the Memorycard.

You'll get an equally good 24-70 or 70-200@Nikon. And who needs 40MPixel? Get a Pano-tool. Understand it. Use it.

P.S. I'm glad that there are companies out there who invent their own sensors, like Sigma or Canon.

are you still glad when you're pushing out the shadows in post processing knowing that you've spent a fortune on buying a great camera with almost the same sensor as the previous model?

I'm not a nikon guy but honestly i don't get it!
Doesn't canon sensors need improvements?
I don't care who makes it, i care on doing my job better.
But i think its funny to talk about USB3 and highlighted buttons in the next models.

Don't complain if canon re-sells the same sensor in the next model with USB3 and 4k as a new feature which is useless for photographers.

6
5D4 wish list
=========

- fix ISO 200 and make it look like ISO 100 (highlight tone priority shots looks noisy when enabled)
- faster SD card slot
- dual SD (get rid of that ancient and expensive CF)
- and yes.. MORE DR please.. kill that banding in the shadows, buy sensors from Sony for Christ sake as nikon does.
- more mp like 40mp (and 20mp mRAW) that those great lenses such as 24-70 2.8 II, 70-200 2.8 II and 16-35 f/4 can handle!

i'd pay for such a hardware.. i wouldn't for something less since i own the 5D3, honestly? what the point?

7
here is a download link
http://support-au.canon.com.au/contents/AU/EN/0200372802.html

all you need is your camera serial number written at the bottom next to the battery slot (in my case 5D3)

8
Lenses / Re: 24-105 vs 24-70 2.8 ii
« on: June 03, 2014, 08:05:23 AM »
Depends on the kind of photography

if you need the 2.8 aperture i'm afraid the 24-70 II is the only way to go
if you don't, the 24-70 II is useless because the 24-105 at f/5 5.6 is sharp from edge to edge, has IS and its way way cheaper.

It would be interesting though to wait for Sigma's 24-70 2.8 OS,
I bet it gonna be sharper from edge to edge from Tamron 24-70 VC and that might push canon to drop the price on the 24-70 II
unless you need a lens right now.

9
buy from scratch..
hmm

5D3 + 70-200 2.8 IS II for action

Nikon D800 or Sony a7R + Nikkor 14-24 + Nikkor 85 1.4G for landscape and portrait

big gap somewhere in between 24-70

The canon 24-70 2.8 II is way overpriced and no IS for that kind of money,
so the 40mm pancake might fill somehow. Cheap, sharp, small, lightweight!

I'd love some prime L glass such the 50L and 85L, but those lenses are soft, overpriced, slow focus (especially the 85L) and OLD

10
Hi Danela,
I personally own a 5D3, but i use it for people mostly because it has an excellent AF system.

For landscapes i use an 600D with an ef-s 10-22 and 24-105 which are more than i need. (Live view focus. f/10 f/8, and everything is sharp from corner to corner, and iso locked to 100 (which is preferred also in FF for landscape photography))

If i hadn't a camera, i'd get the 6D without doubt.
- great sensor
- lightweight

and the new 16-35 f/4 IS will make an awesome combo.

Oh.. almost forgot:
i read above about the GPS problems on draining the battery.
There is an "add-on" named tragic latern (similar to magic latern) which makes the GPS sleep, when switching the camera off.

Here is more to it

https://bitbucket.org/OtherOnePercent/tragic-lantern-6d/issue/29/gps-auto-off-while-camera-sleeps-or-turned

11
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: EOS-1D X Firmware Version 2.0.3 Released
« on: January 09, 2014, 08:13:24 PM »
a new firmware update for 5D3 is needed too..

12
Lenses / Re: Review: Sigma 24-105 f/4 DG OS
« on: December 15, 2013, 09:37:35 PM »

13
Lenses / Re: Primes vs. Zoom for Indoor Sports
« on: November 23, 2013, 10:35:11 AM »
i played a bit with the 70-200 2.8 IS II, its BIG and HEAVY. BUT you won't miss a shot.

Calculate also this factor with your thoughts, because changing lens in action scenes might cost you some nice shots, unless you carry two bodies.

In terms of quality i've also tested the 200L 2.8 II and the 70-200 2.8 L IS II seemed sharper at 200mm both at f/2.8!

Check this out too

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=687&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=3&API=0&LensComp=245&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0

can't say much about the 100 2.0, haven't tested it

14
Lenses / Re: eye focusing with 5D3
« on: November 23, 2013, 10:23:49 AM »
i haven't done any AFMA. The focus seems properly after some testings on a ruler.

15
Lenses / eye focusing with 5D3
« on: November 23, 2013, 09:24:14 AM »
Hi again,
i'm playing a bit with an 85mm f/1.8 at 1.8
I'm having a 5D3 and i use this kind of setup for head portraits. so here are my worries:

There are two choices: spot AF and point AF

so let me see if i get it straight:

The spot AF is used for tiny subjects like eye lashes and it can be more accurate than the point AF. Right?

which one do you use for portrait shots? or it doesn't matter?

after playing a bit with both, the point AF hit the target better than the spot AF, or is it just me? i'm a bit confused.

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