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EOS Bodies / Re: Bizarre grid "pattern" with Rebel t3i/600d
« on: Today at 05:24:22 AM »
a 1:1 crop might help?
June 19, 2013, 01:14:13 PM
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Canon General / Re: improving IQ in landscape
« on: Today at 04:19:28 AM »
my patience normally ends when hugin throws some "out of memory" messages... 
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Landscape / Re: Stars above.
« on: Today at 03:59:58 AM »
Last summer, there was no sleeping space left in our cabin in the mountains, so i took my sleeping bag outside...
The Zwischbergental is a remote valley in the southern part of switzerland, the mountainline is more or less the border to italy. the yellowish light pollution on the left side is Domodossola, Italy.
From 22:30PM till 2AM (where i woke up again and saw that clouds came in) my 600D, fitted with a borrowed Tokina 11-16, took some 30s exposures. I finally had time to do the movie. Enjoy!
Version A: everyting together:
Sternenhimmel über dem Zwüschbi by SwissBear85, on Flickr
Version B: One frame after another (12 FPS for more drama, upscaled to 24FPS):
The Zwischbergental is a remote valley in the southern part of switzerland, the mountainline is more or less the border to italy. the yellowish light pollution on the left side is Domodossola, Italy.
From 22:30PM till 2AM (where i woke up again and saw that clouds came in) my 600D, fitted with a borrowed Tokina 11-16, took some 30s exposures. I finally had time to do the movie. Enjoy!
Version A: everyting together:
Sternenhimmel über dem Zwüschbi by SwissBear85, on Flickr
Version B: One frame after another (12 FPS for more drama, upscaled to 24FPS):
| Small | Large | |
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Canon General / Re: improving IQ in landscape
« on: June 18, 2013, 02:39:04 PM »
Stitching stuff with no foreground is a rather easy process, i shot some panos with 150mm from a tripod without any pano head and stitched it together on my laptop with hugin.
But with such a easy setup its mandatory that the nearest object is far away, i think safe would be some half mile or further. The only drawback is that it weakens the composition possibilities.
The other fun part in stitched "gigapanos" is the part where you zoom in - and for that again a good lens is important.
But i cant deny, if something "doesn't fit by a small margin", a stitch of 2 or 3 images can easily be done, and if its only vertical transition and the upper part of the lowest picture goes over the half mile limit, it even can be done handheld.
But with such a easy setup its mandatory that the nearest object is far away, i think safe would be some half mile or further. The only drawback is that it weakens the composition possibilities.
The other fun part in stitched "gigapanos" is the part where you zoom in - and for that again a good lens is important.
But i cant deny, if something "doesn't fit by a small margin", a stitch of 2 or 3 images can easily be done, and if its only vertical transition and the upper part of the lowest picture goes over the half mile limit, it even can be done handheld.
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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D Mk III with 50mm f/1.8 II - bad images?
« on: June 16, 2013, 04:35:42 AM »
well, the 50mm on fullframe is that a good starter as it has approximately the same field of view than the human eye.
An image begins in the head, by just looking at things with your plain eyes (not throuh the viewfinder). When you see something, imagine what the photography of it should look like, and if it might work, take out the camera and try to get exactly what you imagined.
Ken Rockwell uses the term "FART" for any creative process: http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/fart.htm
He has also some stuff about composition, there he talks all about "SEX", simplification and exclusion: http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/composition.htm
An image begins in the head, by just looking at things with your plain eyes (not throuh the viewfinder). When you see something, imagine what the photography of it should look like, and if it might work, take out the camera and try to get exactly what you imagined.
Ken Rockwell uses the term "FART" for any creative process: http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/fart.htm
He has also some stuff about composition, there he talks all about "SEX", simplification and exclusion: http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/composition.htm
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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D Mk III with 50mm f/1.8 II - bad images?
« on: June 15, 2013, 03:44:51 PM »
In the digital age, many things that were in the analogue area a thing to think of BEFORE pressing the shutter can now be done in post production. But for these things, post production is actually required
So, i would like to advice you to shoot in RAW and then "develop" the images in DPP, Lightroom, Photoshop, Aperture. Best would be aperture or lightroom, followed by photoshop and if you have nothing of these at hand, DPP came with your camera, works, but is quite unfriendly to anything like "workflow"
With these tools, you can apply white balance after pressing the button, and you can also tune the colors to have that "pop".
After 1000 images, you know which button does what.
After 5000 images, you get "that feeling" what might work.
After 10'000 images, you know the limits/merits of your gear.
After 20'000 images, your equipment has become a tool to help you capture your vision.
I'm hitting 20'000 soon and have not yet mastered all my gear, as i invested in too many lenses
So you must see this single lens as a challenge, not as a limitation!
So, i would like to advice you to shoot in RAW and then "develop" the images in DPP, Lightroom, Photoshop, Aperture. Best would be aperture or lightroom, followed by photoshop and if you have nothing of these at hand, DPP came with your camera, works, but is quite unfriendly to anything like "workflow"
With these tools, you can apply white balance after pressing the button, and you can also tune the colors to have that "pop".
After 1000 images, you know which button does what.
After 5000 images, you get "that feeling" what might work.
After 10'000 images, you know the limits/merits of your gear.
After 20'000 images, your equipment has become a tool to help you capture your vision.
I'm hitting 20'000 soon and have not yet mastered all my gear, as i invested in too many lenses
So you must see this single lens as a challenge, not as a limitation!
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Lenses / Re: New Sigma 18-35 F/1.8 Zoom priced at only $799
« on: June 15, 2013, 03:47:45 AM »
Do you know what makes me really angry? The EU price.
Its an import in both countries, so... google says that 799$ is some 600€, can anyone explain me why the EU retail price is 999€?!
Or is sigma just another big A company?
Its an import in both countries, so... google says that 799$ is some 600€, can anyone explain me why the EU retail price is 999€?!
Or is sigma just another big A company?
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Landscape / Re: 5D mkII Image noise in long exposure
« on: June 12, 2013, 01:02:49 PM »
It is known that long exposures do not work well in the digital age. For startrails, there is an easy solution: shoot many pictures (p.ex. 30/15sec exposure each, normal post in LR), and then do an overlay. I used GIOTTO if i'm right.
This works quite nice, only fills your memory card. Another advantage: if clouds roll in, you still can make a nice movie
This works quite nice, only fills your memory card. Another advantage: if clouds roll in, you still can make a nice movie
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Lenses / Re: Sell non L primes to get 24-70LII
« on: June 11, 2013, 05:28:35 PM »
Depending on the type of events, i would buy either a 5DIII or a 70-200.
The image quality, at least for the events i shoot, is not 24-70LII-important, because it is downscaled for internet usage.
If it's no-flash, then a 5DIII gives you many more stops in ISO that than single stop from f/4 to f/2.8
If flash is allowed, i'd get a 70-200 for more reach - portraits from a bit further away and so on
The image quality, at least for the events i shoot, is not 24-70LII-important, because it is downscaled for internet usage.
If it's no-flash, then a 5DIII gives you many more stops in ISO that than single stop from f/4 to f/2.8
If flash is allowed, i'd get a 70-200 for more reach - portraits from a bit further away and so on
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Lighting / Re: Can a (DSLR) flash cause permanent eye damage?
« on: June 07, 2013, 05:13:03 AM »
a fully powered 580EX II can leave some patterns for about week or so on stressed eyes.
By stressed eyes i mean 3-5 days in row 1-2 hours exposure to direct sunlight in a snowy environment at midday at high elevation (no sane person would do this, we told all the kids is was mandatory to wear some eye protection during the midday ski break, but some would not listen).
Sometimes, communication between my 600D and the flash clogs up and it goes of at 1/1, thats how i "tested" it.
But then again, i guess that also a starting fluorescent tube would have caused trouble to these two kids.
But as the flash in the 1100D has less than a forth of the power of the 580EX II, you might get some patterns in your eyes that last for maybe some hours if you fire a 1/1 flash at close distance in pitch black environment.
For physical background: all i remember is that the amount of light is proportional to the square of the distance to the light source. (double the distance results in 1/4 lightpower)
By stressed eyes i mean 3-5 days in row 1-2 hours exposure to direct sunlight in a snowy environment at midday at high elevation (no sane person would do this, we told all the kids is was mandatory to wear some eye protection during the midday ski break, but some would not listen).
Sometimes, communication between my 600D and the flash clogs up and it goes of at 1/1, thats how i "tested" it.
But then again, i guess that also a starting fluorescent tube would have caused trouble to these two kids.
But as the flash in the 1100D has less than a forth of the power of the 580EX II, you might get some patterns in your eyes that last for maybe some hours if you fire a 1/1 flash at close distance in pitch black environment.
For physical background: all i remember is that the amount of light is proportional to the square of the distance to the light source. (double the distance results in 1/4 lightpower)
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Software & Accessories / Re: Best budget printer to begin ?
« on: June 05, 2013, 05:11:40 AM »
for serious printing, you need some 1000$ or so - a professional 8-12 ink printer (Pixma Pro-1 or similar) and calibration equipment. As it is ink jet, you should use it once a week or so or the jets might clog up...
I have a local dealer where I print everything, they have a nice lab, and before i had my screen calibrated, I took all the RAW's I'd liked to print to them, did the color adjustments on their (calibrated) screens - the results hang all around my flat and look really good.
I have a local dealer where I print everything, they have a nice lab, and before i had my screen calibrated, I took all the RAW's I'd liked to print to them, did the color adjustments on their (calibrated) screens - the results hang all around my flat and look really good.
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Lenses / Re: Cheap fisheye for canon full frame?
« on: May 08, 2013, 07:29:13 AM »
there is the lensbaby fisheye: http://lensbaby.com/optics-fisheye
Rather inexpensive, might buy one myself in time...
Rather inexpensive, might buy one myself in time...
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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Panning shot - settings on 1dx case
« on: April 22, 2013, 02:46:49 AM »
As i dont own neither a 1Dx nor a 24-70, i can only argue on the theoretical side. But as you shoot a car (a rather large object with some background to see the pan) at a very small aperture, i would focus manually. I'd set the focus to the hyperfocal distance for f/16 (live view is your friend) and then it should come down to smooth camera movement.
IS is off/panning mode?
IS is off/panning mode?
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Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Sigma Announces 18-35 f/1.8 DC HSM Art for APS-C
« on: April 18, 2013, 07:37:37 PM »
this is f*** ****some!
all i hope is that the price is in the 3 digit range
all i hope is that the price is in the 3 digit range
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Software & Accessories / Re: PP for realistic look - is DPP the best?
« on: April 17, 2013, 06:46:28 PM »
Not a long time ago there was the dilemma before pressing the shutter release. That was in the anlogue age, where you had to choose the right roll of film before the real action. ISO, temperature, color style and so on.
I am very happy these times are over - as a student, film was too expensive and too slow for learning.
Now, all these decisions must be made afterwards, and as many have pointed out, something as "right" or "real" is rather hard to get.
(Some presets that try to imitate all these films would be nice )
But anyway, any decent RAW converter should be able to give you the results you wish, but clearly DPP, being from the camera-dev, has the ability to render a RAW similar to the jpg you can view on the camera.
But that is, again, not "realistic" or anything.
I am very happy these times are over - as a student, film was too expensive and too slow for learning.
Now, all these decisions must be made afterwards, and as many have pointed out, something as "right" or "real" is rather hard to get.
(Some presets that try to imitate all these films would be nice
)But anyway, any decent RAW converter should be able to give you the results you wish, but clearly DPP, being from the camera-dev, has the ability to render a RAW similar to the jpg you can view on the camera.
But that is, again, not "realistic" or anything.