Messages

1

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Unimpressed with 6D + 24-105. Am I doing something wrong?

« on: Today at 01:27:29 AM »

I am having the same underwhelming experience with my 6D and 24-105. But I've no idea how to tell if it needs any afma done. Or how much. Or where. Help? Lol 

Search : Dottune MFA method or buy Reikan Focal.

Link : http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1187247/0

2

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Unimpressed with 6D + 24-105. Am I doing something wrong?

« on: May 20, 2013, 09:24:59 PM »

In my experience taking pictures of things in and around your house is not a good test of anything. Everything looks crap. Go out and do some portraits or landscapes. Shoot into the sun to test flare and contrast. Shoot in pitch black to test AF. Take night city shots with long shutter speeds.

I pretty sure if you took that pic with an iphone 5 it would look the same too.

Similar thing happened to me when I got my 7D and 17-55. According to Focal it needed +5. Yeah that made a freakin huge difference. Also how you process the RAW file will make a difference. I notice the full frame images hold up better over aps-c.

3

EOS Bodies / Re: How will Canon respond to Magic Lantern's raw video hack?

« on: May 19, 2013, 10:07:08 PM »

Canon don't need an answer as it's a hack. They will simply state that the 5D III was not designed to be used in that way, wether it can or not. It's like modifiying a car engine to go faster. The car manufacturer doesn't have to answer to those mods so why does Canon? I bet you could make a 5D III do all sorts of things if you really tried!

I do wonder about their higher end video cameras though. Though doesn't this hack only let you record for a short period of time? Most working pros wouldn't really care for that would they? I hardly see the BBC (or whoever uses that expensive stuff) going out to buy a bunch of 5D IIIs for their film crew and then hacking them with ML.

Someone also mentioned ergonomics in a similar post. Plenty of reasons Canon won't be bothered much by this. They'll sell more 5D 3 and maybe one or two less C100s.  End of the day they'll still be making bank and laugh about their profits!

4

Lighting / Re: Speedlites help

« on: May 18, 2013, 06:10:47 AM »

Hello Family want some ideas on speed lights

I was given three brand new speedlites by my sister who went from Canon to Nikon and knew i was starting to get real deep into photography
1 Canon 600ex-rt
1 yongnuo yn568ex
1 yongnuo yn565ex
and
4 yongnuo YN-622C triggers




Ok I was wondering I'm I ok. Im i missing anything do i need anything I wanted the Canon Transmitter ST-E3

Please help

Why did she move to Nikon?

5

Lighting / Re: Emergency help-wedding tomorrow

« on: May 18, 2013, 06:06:59 AM »

magic lantern on the 5dm2 the one it seems to work on.
Did the wedding today and still had troubles.
It is like when in av and ettl the camera and flash do not communicate(may also be in other mode but just not manual) no matter how i change the settings it is still blown out by a considerable amount. And this is with iso static at 100. no and the aperture set at what ever applicable for photo. and high speed sync to ensure it can acquire necessary shutter speed.   
It is driving me nuts. in Manual mode on camera i can get it but i feel like i used to us AV and ETTL all the time.
probably me just not knowing how flash is working.

Thats because in Av mode the sync speed is limiting the shutter speed. You'll need to put it in manual and then use high speed sync on your flash. Only prob is now the power is reduced so you'll need to add about +2 FEC.

6

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Help with transition shooting from dark place to light place

« on: May 15, 2013, 09:17:13 PM »

What about saving C1 on the mode dial for indoor and C2 as outdoor then just switch? Or would that be too obvious? Maybe if you wait for a doorway or something? Maybe with some post editing included?

7

Canon General / Re: Desired fantasy gear

« on: May 15, 2013, 11:59:29 AM »

A Canon Full Frame DSLR with a built in radio transceiver for triggering speedlights (like a 600 ex-rt) thus eliminating the need for hotshoe transceivers and triggers altogether. Groups and channels etc set via in camera menu. Effective range of 150m with visual feedback from the speedlight in the viewfinder such as recycle time and battery level. The camera's sync speed should be 1/1000. So basically a camera designed around off camera flash!

Maybe it's already possible with the 6D but I like to wirelessly sync camera with iPad retina minus third party software for tethered shooting. Some video options on that would be cool too, ML??

A lens with some kind of coating that allows it change it's light transmission value at will, creating an instant ND effect that is variable. Eliminate the need for ND filters. I love them but they are a pain to keep swapping on and off.

8

Lenses / Re: Andy Rouse Reviews the EF 200-400 f/4L IS 1.4x

« on: May 15, 2013, 03:46:43 AM »

A great review that puts a lot if BS around this lens to rest. Finally! I'm glad Canon have released this lens now. Hopefully it is the start of some new exciting lenses!

9

Lighting / Re: Speedlite Remote Trigger Question

« on: April 29, 2013, 11:54:08 PM »

To be fair, you weren't really discussing the differences between manual and eTTL; it was more like highlighting the shortcomings of eTTL.  In the first paragraph you completely dismissed eTTL as being worthless.

yeah and only a troll or someone unable to use ETTL would do that.

have a look at joe mcnallys work.
he uses TTL on nikon.. and it´s not that much (if any) better then canons.

Did i say it was worthless? I said unreliable for consistency in power output for multiple shots when the flash is off camera, especially as you change composition. I didn't say it doesn't work.

I will rephrase it though - ETTL for dynamic situations and where subject to light distance is constanly changing and manual for a fixed position.

You guys really need to chill and not pounce on the first thing you happen to disagree upon.

Not everyone is a Joe Mcnally. We all make mistakes.

10

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Wedding expert suggestions desired...first time.

« on: April 29, 2013, 07:51:04 AM »

I have photographed hundreds of weddings over the years and have enjoyed growing as a businessman and an artist. If this is going to be a one time thing, I agree with the post suggesting P Mode and ETTL for the flash.
If you want to do a superior job  or are thinking about a new career, purchase "Captured by the Light" by David Ziser and follow his advice. This is quite simply the best and most complete book on the subject of wedding photography. His "Digital Pro Talk" website is also an invaluable asset.
Good Luck!

+100 awesome book!

11

Lighting / Re: Speedlite Remote Trigger Question

« on: April 29, 2013, 07:16:56 AM »

I find off camera ETTL to be unrelaible. How does the camera know where you've put the flash? It just thinks its parked on top of the camera so the power output will be wrong. Sure, you can use FEC but then that depends where you meter from and can lead to inconsistent light from shot to shot (not to mention you learn nothing from it). I mean how often in flash photography do you only take one or two shots??

You obviously must not of used remote flash photography outside of a tiny studio with controlled lighting. Try a dark reception venue with a dance floor and walking around the entire room taking photos at different angles, locations and subjects. I often only take one shot at a time and the wireless ETTL triggers nail it every time. Just because you don't get more creative and adaptable with your off camera lighting doesn't mean that others don't.

I've shot in a nightclub before and yes I have used ETTL in that situation. I was trying to get the OP too understand the difference between manual and auto. Thanks for the dig at me. Very constructive.

12

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Wedding expert suggestions desired...first time.

« on: April 29, 2013, 05:54:53 AM »

I would rent a 5D II or III and some fast glass and shoot with two bodies. A zoom on one and a prime on the other. But you should take test shots before you do anything to get an idea of what lens and what lighting to use. I think bounce flash will be the safest bet for you. Aim it at a wall if possible. Light coming in from the side looks better than from straight down (racoon eyes). If you have to use fill flash point thr flash away from thr persons face and bounce off your left hand. Sure, off camera flash is awsome but learning that in a short space of time is asking a bit much.

Flash tip. Take a shot without flash in Av mode or P mode. Take a reading and put camera in manual. Dial in the exposure. Then turn on flash. Now the flash will add to that exposure and now you can control the ambient by changing shutter speed and flash power by changing aperture.

13

Software & Accessories / Re: Screen calibration frustration!

« on: April 29, 2013, 03:28:50 AM »

i have the colormunki

it calibrates the mac book pro screens fine and the apple 30" cinema displays
however i have not had good results with the dell 27" u2711 displays i have
same issue you have too contrasty and too saturated or sort of get it calibrated so it looks ok in LR and PS then everything else looks like rubbish

maybe i should sell those

Hmmm seems that the macs calibrate well and cause less headaches! I like the look of the macbook pro, really light with a sleek design. The Sony's a brick in comparison!

14

Lighting / Re: Speedlite Remote Trigger Question

« on: April 29, 2013, 02:22:43 AM »

I would also look into getting a few YN-560 IIIs in the future instead of a 430 ex II. They're cheap, manual units only but trust me manual is the way to go. You can still use your 580 for your ETTL needs. The YN-560 III has a built in radio receiver too and they work as optical slaves too (something the 430s lack). Also the buttons are nice and big which makes changing the power or zoom head a breeze. The 430 requires some fiddling about with thumbnails.

I find off camera ETTL to be unrelaible. How does the camera know where you've put the flash? It just thinks its parked on top of the camera so the power output will be wrong. Sure, you can use FEC but then that depends where you meter from and can lead to inconsistent light from shot to shot (not to mention you learn nothing from it). I mean how often in flash photography do you only take one or two shots?? With manual you can adjust the power by simply moving the flash closer or further away as well as dialing in the power. Once its set you can take as many shots as you like without worrying about it changing, thus freeing you up to work on composition. After a few tries you get familair with how much power you will likely need for any given situation.

15

Reviews / Re: Review - Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM

« on: April 28, 2013, 08:59:26 PM »

The idea of adjusting in several places sound very interesting. But with the software not controlling the lens while adjusting, not even being in the camera, how do one know how much need to be adjusted without making 200 tries?? What means -1 or +3 How much distance is that? How you know what number to put in there?

That is my concern.  It seems like a lot of trial and error, and shooting charts many, many times.  Fine if it is the only lens in your kit, but seems like a pretty huge investment of time. And what if, like many of us, you shoot multiple bodies?  I like the concept of the finite focus control; I'm less crazy about the time investment.  Doing AFMA on a few bodies is already a fair investment of time (I do it manually). 

One plus, however, is that unlike the slow, multi-step task of making each change in the body, the software at least allows for quick adjustments.  It would be great if the hub came with a FoCal type software that could automate part of the process.

Having just used Focal for the first time the other day I agree with that. I would love to have four adjustment points on my Canon zoom lenses. At least Sigma users now have that chance! All you need is the data from Focal and you're set!