Too bad it's for AUS buyers only.
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So I bought a couple lens recently (17-40mm and 24-105) and want to get some UV filters for them.
Is there any real difference between various filters?
For instance, Hoya UV filters range from $30 to to $110. My gut reaction is that it is mostly marketing junk and the $30 one is fine. But would appreciate anyone with knowledge or thoughts to the contrary! Thanks.
If you can sidestep the obligation, do. If you really can't, don't panic. It's a grand challenge, and you can have fun if you allow yourself to.
Beav talked about expectations -- very important. Make sure they know they have no reason to have great expectations. That said, I expect they've seen some pictures you've taken, and you should be flattered they asked you. But again, make sure they know event photography is a specialized occupation and getting a nice landscape shot is not the same as a wedding.
A few thoughts:
1. Keep it simple. Go with the equipment you have. It's what you know. Trying to learn a flash, even just for fill, will get in the way. Forget a second body. The chances that your body will malfunction is about the same as them changing the date back to six months from now. A second body, with a different lens, can be helpful, but you're disadvantaged. First, you're shooting a wedding, and you know nothing about how to do that properly so all your attention needs to be on getting that right. Second, it's too confusing in this situation to remember a second body and what settings are on which body (it's more than just another lens). Keep it simple. Go with the equipment you've got.
2. Work on getting one memorable shot. You can give them 50 mediocre pictures, and one great one -- all they'll see is the great one. That's the one they will come back to in future years, and they'll remember you gave it to them. Try to plan something in advance if possible. If not, keep looking for that one moment when everything comes together perfectly -- and don't hesitate! Shoot the damn thing NOW. And tell them you're best hope is that you can give them one, single memorable picture.
3. Don't be afraid of the high ISO capability your camera has. Use what you need to get the right aperture/shutter speed to make the shot.
4. If you're going to be the "official" photographer, be it. Don't let people get in front of you or block you. Direct people into shots you need. You're in charge of this production. Don't be a passive photojournalist just shooting what happens. MAKE it happen. And as I've said here before, the best piece of advice I ever got when I started doing weddings so many, many years ago -- Do NOT be afraid to do it over. If you screw up a shot, stop everything and have them do it again. Now that may not be possible on the altar (but it may be if you've got the chutzpah) but have them restage it a few minutes later if need be. Always better to be embarrassed (which everyone will forget) than hand them a bad picture (which they will NEVER forget).
People have mentioned visiting the venues where you'll be working, good advice. And finally, I'd suggest looking at some wedding photographer sites -- look at the standard shots they all get, and plan to get those at least.
And have fun. The worst that can happen is you take some lousy pictures. At least I haven't heard any mention of a shotgun!
Thanks for all the advice everybody, a lot to think over. The wedding is at a church, then reception, pretty simple, not huge.
After reading your comments I've now been considering is talking to him into hiring a photographer, and then I'll just bring my 6d, and pancake lens just for some candid photos to give to them.
If he insists on me, I'll then tell him to at least hire someone for the ceremony and I'll shoot the reception.
If he really insists on not hiring a pro, then screw it, I'll just take my stuff and he'll get what he gets!
I'd much rather see them with quality photos than meh photos, from their friend who just does it as a hobby.
But whatever happens, I think I may invest in a nice 85mm. Maybe a new 50mm if they release a new one.
You mean it was
I put it in my cart last night and was going to purchase it today from Amazon and as I was going to check out I noticed the price had gone back to $3459. Not sure what gives with this. I love Amazon but they may have just lost a sale from me on this and the grip. I may have to go with BestBuy instead .was 3499 or whatever ..
now it is $3249
not the cheapest but price did drop
If you're ready to pull the trigger on the body, might as well grab one of the deals - the difference between what they seem to be going for and the BH kit deal is about the full retail price of the 24-105 (the kits don't seem to be discounted quite as much yet). Put your 24-70 on the new body and get used to FF then see if you still want to add or switch lenses.
($2899 today: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-III-22-3-MP-Full-Frame-CMOS-Digital-SLR-Camera-Body-/300794215856?)
Thanks san, yeah I ended up pulling the trigger on the beachcamera 5dIII deal! Hope I made the right decision, excited and anxious to get my hands on that puppy!
Great photos! I would like to start doing this type of night photography....I'm trying to decide between purchasing the 24L II or the 24-70L II. Obviously, the 24L II is going to be better in low light, but I like the flexibility of the 24-70L II for my overall photography needs.
I have the 5D MarkIII....Can anyone share their thoughts between the 24-70L II and the 24L II for night sky photography?
I don't have MkIII myself yet, but I was on a shoot this week with a pro shooting tethered with one using Capture One software. It seemed to work very well for what it's worth (and looks like you can control everything that you are looking for according to specs: http://www.phaseone.com/en/Image-Software/Capture-One/Features.aspx)
Thanks, although apparently live view is not supported for Canon or Nikon cameras
"The extent of tethered support will vary depending on the back/camera connected. Live View is not supported for Canon and Nikon."