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Messages - East Wind Photography

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241
Lenses / Re: AFMA - Is is really necessary?
« on: June 20, 2013, 09:16:25 AM »
One of the problems with doing that is that the moire patterns you sometimes get (not sensor moire but from the screen on the camera) on the older models can give you a false interpretation of the results.  I have tried very carefully to use the rear screen to eval AF points and then find later after downloading to the PC that it was off.  The only thing I can come up with is that the screen DPI even at actual magnification, alters the image slightly enough to make AFMA determination risky (yes I made sure all of the in camera alterations were disabled).  5D3 and 1DX are much better but it's still easier to find the exact AF point on a larger computer screen.

You really need to take the time to evaluate it correctly...sometimes requires going out back and taking 12 shots then coming in to eval, make some tweaks, go back out for another 12 and repeat until you have it nailed down.  Anything else and you are simply guessing and unless your AFMA is already way off, it's probably best left at disabled.


I am semi-pro and use a 5D mark III body and I have recently upgraded my Mk 1 lenses to the 24-70mm f2.8L II and 70-200mm f2.8L II.

I have never bothered with any AFMA and the mark II lenses do look sharp - even in 100% crops, but it has always niggled in my mind that they "could" benefit from some AFMA.

Should I be doing it and, without buying a calibration kit, what is the easiest way to do AFMA?

I have heard a method where you tether the camera to a PC and use the EOS tool to do it - this looks reasonably easy.

yes^yes unless you are really lucky

sometiems just aiming at a crack in the pavement and adjusting works

sometimes just aim at a player and adjust until grass centers around their feet as you like

242
1D X Sample Images / Re: Any Thing shot with a 1Dx
« on: June 19, 2013, 11:14:48 PM »
It's got to be CR tinkering with the JPG files as this too seems a bit oversharpened to me compared to what we should see with just a RAW image.  Otherwise both are excellent.

Just ran out quickly to see what the 200-400 could do with the moon.


Looks a lot like mine ~ 500 f/4 II + 1.4 TC. Prepping for the super moon this weekend, have the penthouse on the 17th floor all to myself, 5d3 and 1Dx + 500 f/4 II 2x mkIII TC and 17 TS-E.

243
Lenses / Re: AFMA - Is is really necessary?
« on: June 19, 2013, 11:10:19 PM »
And some are more sensitive in cross or X pattern.  This is good in theory but the target should be better defined and quite a bit larger than the ladder itself to prevent the camera from weighing on it.  Otherwise it's just as good or better than Focal. 

The latest version 1.8.1 failed on all of my lenses (5-15, 100L 70-200L II, 300 2.8L 600F4L and the latter 3 with and without 1.4XIII and 2XIII extenders) but ironically the older 24-70L.  After letting focal do a quick cal as well as a full call on all of my lenses, a check with my spydercal revealed that focal had incorrectly calculated the AFMA on all but the 24-70.

This is quite disappointing as I would have expected an improvement in later versions and instead it has gone the other way.  1.4 seemed to give the best results.

Another interesting thing that happened with 1.8.1 when calibrating my 70-200 2.8L IS II is that on the 200 end at AFMA -20, focal gave it a higher result than at 0.  The images were garbage compared to the same with AFMA 0.  Even with removing those test points the AFMA calculation was considerably off.  Again using the SpyderCal, -3 put the AF dead on 8 out of 8 shots.

To answer the OP question, yes AFMA matters if your lenses are not already dead sharp at 0 AFMA.  And you would never know if you dont test them.  Software and dot tune are not ideal. Both seem problematic to me and the only sure way to verify everything is to use SPyderCal or LensCal type device, homemade or not.

Then again, there's the cheap-o DIY version
A 2x8, a step ladder, and any kind of target (in this case, a cardboard box) - see setup.
I take a few photos, manual defocusing before using AF, and estimate the number of inches front or back focusing. Adjust the micro adjust and repeat.
But ... where is the camera actually trying to focus?  You can't tell by the red box, because the aF area is larger, and it makes a difference based on exactly where the camera focused.  A Camera sensor tends to grab horizontal lines in preference to vertical, and that can have a effect.
There can be lots of gotchas that can lead to wrong conclusions, or they could be right ones, the problem is in knowing which is which.

244
1D X Sample Images / Re: Any Thing shot with a 1Dx
« on: June 19, 2013, 10:36:41 PM »
Just ran out quickly to see what the 200-400 could do with the moon.

Nice..but seems to have too much sharpening applied.  Might just be CR jpg translation.

245
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Worth getting an SD card for 5D3?
« on: June 12, 2013, 09:45:36 PM »
I've never had an issue using the SD card in the 5DIII other than you are limited to 6 or 7 frame bursts in RAW mode....compared to 13 or 14 with the CF card.

Thanks for all the replies peeps. You've helped a lot in making my decision.




The question I have left, however, is whether anyone would trust ONLY an SD card? (For slower shootion situations of course.)


It's just that I will be running my MkII and MkIII side by side for a while, and can only afford to get an SD. So that'll have to go int the MkIII, and the CF stay in the MkII for the time being.

246
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Worth getting an SD card for 5D3?
« on: June 11, 2013, 02:10:26 PM »
The best use for the SD card is writing two copies of an image to both cards at the same time.  Useful if you are a wedding or event photographer and want two copies.  It slows down the number of shots in drive mode before it has to buffer but if that is not important for the shoot then you can write to both cards.  Otherwise you can set it to write to the CF card first and fail over to the SD card when it's full.  That setting wont hinder your write speed.

I use an Eye-Fi card in mine (now that the new firmware fixes all of the crashing).  I can enable the wi-fi piece on wedding shoots and let the family see the images on my ipad (compressed jpg) and still write the full raw to the CF card.

247
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: focusing screen dilemma resolved
« on: June 07, 2013, 07:25:51 PM »
There is also no means to adjust exposure via firmware.  Changing focusing screens will affect the exposure on 5d3 for sure.  In other models you either have a micro exposure adjustment or a selector for available canon focus screens.

Though I guess you could just be lucky and get one that is close to the original in light transmission and hope you don't drop a screw or two into the camera.

248
Make sure your homeowners policy will cover it should it get stolen.  Ask about a rider to cover damage from anything.

249
Lenses / Re: Tele for backpacking
« on: June 03, 2013, 12:57:43 PM »
I do this frequently and just to be clear I am an L nut.  IQ and image consistency is top priority otherwise why waste my time?  I use a 5DIII w/grip attached to a 300mm 2.8L and a 1.4XIII extender.  I also pack a 70-200 2.8L attached to a 60D (for backup and 2nd crop body) and either a 100mm 2.8L if I plan to shoot any macro or a 24-70 2.8L for landscapes.  All of this packs into a minimal ThinkTank Streetwalker Pro.  On the outside I attach a water bottle and a carbon fiber monopod.

I also have the ThinkTank Urban Disguise Attachment kit which has straps that attach to the back back and your camera or camera strap.  Allows me to carry the 300mm all day without any neck strain.

The pack is tight when it's all in there but I mostly always have at least one camera out ready to go attached to the backpack harness.  If the weather turns bad I just put it all in the pack and cover it with the included rain fly.

This summer I'm doing a lot of photography-focused backpacking in mountains and forests. My primary considerations for choosing gear are handheld IQ, weight & pack space, and preference for weather sealing (when possible/practical). So far, I'm just about set on taking a 6D, 17-40L, 100L macro, and nifty fifty. Something tells me I'm going to need an option for more reach (animals), but the 400mm 5.6 available to me seems out of the question due to size. In the past I've used a 70-200 f/4 non-IS, but that was on a 7D.

Appealing to this forum's collective knowledge and experience, my question is whether I can get a 300mm+ lens weighing less than 800 grams that will beat the IQ of just cropping photos from the 100L. Or should I try and make do with the 70-200? Any thoughts? Thank you!

250
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 1DX and 5D3 RAW files
« on: May 29, 2013, 03:16:34 PM »
The 3DX is the pirated Canon copy they made from stolen architecture plans and reverse engineering the 1DX firmware.   ::)

well , as one example, in Asia, Japan the  3DX has been sold as a status camera, nothing Canon can brag about, do you still think  sales from a 18Mp are important factor for the audience here? Then I suggest a compact camera, easier, better tuned for average people to get  a straight good  JPG out from the camera

What's a 3DX?  If Canon had released one, they'd be bragging about it, you can count on that. 

Am I to understand that you're suggesting that I should look for 'a compact camera, easier, better tuned for average people to get  a straight good  JPG out from the camera'?  I hope I'm simply misunderstanding you...

251
Technical Support / Re: 5dm3 - FPS Drops when battery below 50%
« on: May 29, 2013, 02:19:33 PM »
Yes I always use genuine Canon batteries as I get more shots per charge using them as well as longer general life expectancy.  In the long run it's less expensive...but that's not relevant to this discussion. 

Most definitely though a non-canon battery could directly affect AF speed as the lenses pull their power for AF directly from the battery.  Any anomaly there would slow down drive speed IF 1st and/or 2nd shot priority is set to AF.

Now not to say that there is some other issue, I just brought it up as it's a common condition most people set and forget.

hmm.... ok good point East Wind and also very different than what the OP mentions and different from what has been reported out on the canon forum.  assume from your description that you using 100% genuine Canon batts too. 

part of the problem here is that Canon is woefully unclear as to the precise expected  behavior. that said, something is causing some cameras to magically change burst behavior at 49% battery level.

252
Technical Support / Re: 5dm3 - FPS Drops when battery below 50%
« on: May 29, 2013, 12:24:48 PM »
I dont agree with it being a firmware issue as I have used my 5DIII with and without a grip and run the batteries down to where the icon blinks and all functions stop.  I've never had it slow down in drive mode except when the camera has focus priority set or if one of the CPU intensive functions are enabled such as HTP or high ISO noise reduction.

I am more inclined to think that the problem is tied either to bad or slow AF motor and/or settings within the firmware to prioritize focus before taking the shot...not a defect but how the camera is supposed to work in those situations.

However re-creating the problem and disabling all of the firmware priority and software functions can help do determine if it's firmware or not.


Postulating just for thoughts on how battery voltage can affect drive speed...and without knowing all of the facts this may or not be a possibility....

The battery is tied directly to the lens AF motor.  depending on the lens used may put more of a load on the battery and affect the AF speed of the lens.  If you have your camera firmware to 1st and 2nd shot focus priority, you could get yourself into a situation where slow AF can also slow your drive speed.

If you can reproduce the problem, please go into firmware and set 1st and 2nd shot priority to shutter priority and see if the speed picks up.  If so then you can say that AF speed may be the likely culprit.

or turn AF switch (on the lens) off.  The battery also powers IS, so turn that off as well.  Li batteries have very low internal resistance, so I really don't think this (by itself) is enough to explain the marked decrease in burst speed.  All these factors may be consistent with what I believe to be an unfortunately vague statement in the manual, i.e. if this was about battery behavior you might see 5.5fps instead of 6, which would occur at low battery levels, but it would not occur magically at 49%. 

I still think we have to think of this in terms of firmware behavior, not battery behavior.  The firmware's objective appears to be conservation of energy and prioritization of certain features like AF and IS ,which is may deem more important than burst speed.

253
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 1DX and 5D3 RAW files
« on: May 29, 2013, 11:52:12 AM »
If memory serves me correctly the 1DX was "rushed" to market with priority given to Olympic photographers.  I'm sure there were not many who actually had their hands on it or would "trust" a brand new camera for something so critical.  The only option for most was older technology.

At the Olympic Games in Beijing there where many Canon shooters moving directly to Nikon because of the low keepers they got with 1Dmk3.
The lens  line  14-24 , 24-70, 70-200 and  200-400 Nikon lens was also a big argument to move over to Nikon at this time.

Yeah, but the "this time" to which you're referring is now 5 years ago, and two camera generations back.

254
Technical Support / Re: 5dm3 - FPS Drops when battery below 50%
« on: May 29, 2013, 11:47:39 AM »
Postulating just for thoughts on how battery voltage can affect drive speed...and without knowing all of the facts this may or not be a possibility....

The battery is tied directly to the lens AF motor.  depending on the lens used may put more of a load on the battery and affect the AF speed of the lens.  If you have your camera firmware to 1st and 2nd shot focus priority, you could get yourself into a situation where slow AF can also slow your drive speed.

If you can reproduce the problem, please go into firmware and set 1st and 2nd shot priority to shutter priority and see if the speed picks up.  If so then you can say that AF speed may be the likely culprit. 



255
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 1DX and 5D3 RAW files
« on: May 29, 2013, 10:51:36 AM »
Interesting.  I have a buddy that switched to Canon due to three Nikon body failures during the same shoot.  He lost a lot of money that day from lost shots and in the end he had no working cameras.  That was the main reason why I made the commitment to stay with Canon.  Regardless of which body is better, if you cant take the shot, what good is it?

Are they ? , here in Europe lot of  sports photographer/agenties moved to Nikon because of the D3S , D4 and the 200-400/4 is working so well.

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