September 20, 2014, 04:04:23 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - East Wind Photography

Pages: 1 ... 18 19 [20] 21 22 ... 47
286
1D X Sample Images / Re: Any Thing shot with a 1Dx
« on: June 19, 2013, 10:36:41 PM »
Just ran out quickly to see what the 200-400 could do with the moon.

Nice..but seems to have too much sharpening applied.  Might just be CR jpg translation.

287
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Worth getting an SD card for 5D3?
« on: June 12, 2013, 09:45:36 PM »
I've never had an issue using the SD card in the 5DIII other than you are limited to 6 or 7 frame bursts in RAW mode....compared to 13 or 14 with the CF card.

Thanks for all the replies peeps. You've helped a lot in making my decision.




The question I have left, however, is whether anyone would trust ONLY an SD card? (For slower shootion situations of course.)


It's just that I will be running my MkII and MkIII side by side for a while, and can only afford to get an SD. So that'll have to go int the MkIII, and the CF stay in the MkII for the time being.

288
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Worth getting an SD card for 5D3?
« on: June 11, 2013, 02:10:26 PM »
The best use for the SD card is writing two copies of an image to both cards at the same time.  Useful if you are a wedding or event photographer and want two copies.  It slows down the number of shots in drive mode before it has to buffer but if that is not important for the shoot then you can write to both cards.  Otherwise you can set it to write to the CF card first and fail over to the SD card when it's full.  That setting wont hinder your write speed.

I use an Eye-Fi card in mine (now that the new firmware fixes all of the crashing).  I can enable the wi-fi piece on wedding shoots and let the family see the images on my ipad (compressed jpg) and still write the full raw to the CF card.

289
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: focusing screen dilemma resolved
« on: June 07, 2013, 07:25:51 PM »
There is also no means to adjust exposure via firmware.  Changing focusing screens will affect the exposure on 5d3 for sure.  In other models you either have a micro exposure adjustment or a selector for available canon focus screens.

Though I guess you could just be lucky and get one that is close to the original in light transmission and hope you don't drop a screw or two into the camera.

290
Make sure your homeowners policy will cover it should it get stolen.  Ask about a rider to cover damage from anything.

291
Lenses / Re: Tele for backpacking
« on: June 03, 2013, 12:57:43 PM »
I do this frequently and just to be clear I am an L nut.  IQ and image consistency is top priority otherwise why waste my time?  I use a 5DIII w/grip attached to a 300mm 2.8L and a 1.4XIII extender.  I also pack a 70-200 2.8L attached to a 60D (for backup and 2nd crop body) and either a 100mm 2.8L if I plan to shoot any macro or a 24-70 2.8L for landscapes.  All of this packs into a minimal ThinkTank Streetwalker Pro.  On the outside I attach a water bottle and a carbon fiber monopod.

I also have the ThinkTank Urban Disguise Attachment kit which has straps that attach to the back back and your camera or camera strap.  Allows me to carry the 300mm all day without any neck strain.

The pack is tight when it's all in there but I mostly always have at least one camera out ready to go attached to the backpack harness.  If the weather turns bad I just put it all in the pack and cover it with the included rain fly.

This summer I'm doing a lot of photography-focused backpacking in mountains and forests. My primary considerations for choosing gear are handheld IQ, weight & pack space, and preference for weather sealing (when possible/practical). So far, I'm just about set on taking a 6D, 17-40L, 100L macro, and nifty fifty. Something tells me I'm going to need an option for more reach (animals), but the 400mm 5.6 available to me seems out of the question due to size. In the past I've used a 70-200 f/4 non-IS, but that was on a 7D.

Appealing to this forum's collective knowledge and experience, my question is whether I can get a 300mm+ lens weighing less than 800 grams that will beat the IQ of just cropping photos from the 100L. Or should I try and make do with the 70-200? Any thoughts? Thank you!

292
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 1DX and 5D3 RAW files
« on: May 29, 2013, 03:16:34 PM »
The 3DX is the pirated Canon copy they made from stolen architecture plans and reverse engineering the 1DX firmware.   ::)

well , as one example, in Asia, Japan the  3DX has been sold as a status camera, nothing Canon can brag about, do you still think  sales from a 18Mp are important factor for the audience here? Then I suggest a compact camera, easier, better tuned for average people to get  a straight good  JPG out from the camera

What's a 3DX?  If Canon had released one, they'd be bragging about it, you can count on that. 

Am I to understand that you're suggesting that I should look for 'a compact camera, easier, better tuned for average people to get  a straight good  JPG out from the camera'?  I hope I'm simply misunderstanding you...

293
Technical Support / Re: 5dm3 - FPS Drops when battery below 50%
« on: May 29, 2013, 02:19:33 PM »
Yes I always use genuine Canon batteries as I get more shots per charge using them as well as longer general life expectancy.  In the long run it's less expensive...but that's not relevant to this discussion. 

Most definitely though a non-canon battery could directly affect AF speed as the lenses pull their power for AF directly from the battery.  Any anomaly there would slow down drive speed IF 1st and/or 2nd shot priority is set to AF.

Now not to say that there is some other issue, I just brought it up as it's a common condition most people set and forget.

hmm.... ok good point East Wind and also very different than what the OP mentions and different from what has been reported out on the canon forum.  assume from your description that you using 100% genuine Canon batts too. 

part of the problem here is that Canon is woefully unclear as to the precise expected  behavior. that said, something is causing some cameras to magically change burst behavior at 49% battery level.

294
Technical Support / Re: 5dm3 - FPS Drops when battery below 50%
« on: May 29, 2013, 12:24:48 PM »
I dont agree with it being a firmware issue as I have used my 5DIII with and without a grip and run the batteries down to where the icon blinks and all functions stop.  I've never had it slow down in drive mode except when the camera has focus priority set or if one of the CPU intensive functions are enabled such as HTP or high ISO noise reduction.

I am more inclined to think that the problem is tied either to bad or slow AF motor and/or settings within the firmware to prioritize focus before taking the shot...not a defect but how the camera is supposed to work in those situations.

However re-creating the problem and disabling all of the firmware priority and software functions can help do determine if it's firmware or not.


Postulating just for thoughts on how battery voltage can affect drive speed...and without knowing all of the facts this may or not be a possibility....

The battery is tied directly to the lens AF motor.  depending on the lens used may put more of a load on the battery and affect the AF speed of the lens.  If you have your camera firmware to 1st and 2nd shot focus priority, you could get yourself into a situation where slow AF can also slow your drive speed.

If you can reproduce the problem, please go into firmware and set 1st and 2nd shot priority to shutter priority and see if the speed picks up.  If so then you can say that AF speed may be the likely culprit.

or turn AF switch (on the lens) off.  The battery also powers IS, so turn that off as well.  Li batteries have very low internal resistance, so I really don't think this (by itself) is enough to explain the marked decrease in burst speed.  All these factors may be consistent with what I believe to be an unfortunately vague statement in the manual, i.e. if this was about battery behavior you might see 5.5fps instead of 6, which would occur at low battery levels, but it would not occur magically at 49%. 

I still think we have to think of this in terms of firmware behavior, not battery behavior.  The firmware's objective appears to be conservation of energy and prioritization of certain features like AF and IS ,which is may deem more important than burst speed.

295
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 1DX and 5D3 RAW files
« on: May 29, 2013, 11:52:12 AM »
If memory serves me correctly the 1DX was "rushed" to market with priority given to Olympic photographers.  I'm sure there were not many who actually had their hands on it or would "trust" a brand new camera for something so critical.  The only option for most was older technology.

At the Olympic Games in Beijing there where many Canon shooters moving directly to Nikon because of the low keepers they got with 1Dmk3.
The lens  line  14-24 , 24-70, 70-200 and  200-400 Nikon lens was also a big argument to move over to Nikon at this time.

Yeah, but the "this time" to which you're referring is now 5 years ago, and two camera generations back.

296
Technical Support / Re: 5dm3 - FPS Drops when battery below 50%
« on: May 29, 2013, 11:47:39 AM »
Postulating just for thoughts on how battery voltage can affect drive speed...and without knowing all of the facts this may or not be a possibility....

The battery is tied directly to the lens AF motor.  depending on the lens used may put more of a load on the battery and affect the AF speed of the lens.  If you have your camera firmware to 1st and 2nd shot focus priority, you could get yourself into a situation where slow AF can also slow your drive speed.

If you can reproduce the problem, please go into firmware and set 1st and 2nd shot priority to shutter priority and see if the speed picks up.  If so then you can say that AF speed may be the likely culprit. 



297
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 1DX and 5D3 RAW files
« on: May 29, 2013, 10:51:36 AM »
Interesting.  I have a buddy that switched to Canon due to three Nikon body failures during the same shoot.  He lost a lot of money that day from lost shots and in the end he had no working cameras.  That was the main reason why I made the commitment to stay with Canon.  Regardless of which body is better, if you cant take the shot, what good is it?

Are they ? , here in Europe lot of  sports photographer/agenties moved to Nikon because of the D3S , D4 and the 200-400/4 is working so well.

298
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon 5D Mk3 Reliability
« on: May 26, 2013, 11:04:54 PM »
There is a significant latency when pressing the shutter button in silent mode.  You can compensate but find it best not to use that mode for action shots.  This due to the dampening of the mirror and shutter to reduce noise.

Thanks to those who've commented on the +2/3rds exposure - I tend to keep that amount dialled in and occasionally adjust based on what the image itself looks like on the rear screen (histograms be damned!). The warranty is up very soon so might get it checked out.

For those taking action shots in silent-mode, do you find it captures most/all of the action? A few people on the forum thought that due to the way silent-mode works (a more gentle mirror open/close function) meant the camera wouldn't be quite as reponsive for faster action. What do you reckon?

Fine weather today so off to try some birds in flight after lunch  ;D
You should learn to trust your histogram!  :)

I've tried using silent mode for action shots.  It's a no-go as far as I'm concerned.  The mechanism is just too slow to use - especially for bursts.

299
You can make considerable correction to sharpness with DPP or Photoshop.  It wont be the same as without the extender but it can help.  You also need to make sure that it is focusing properly with the extender on.  There are some variations between cameras lenses and even the extenders themselves and the error can compound if all three are just off by a small amount.  Try manual focus using live view with 10X magnification and see how it compares with using just the center AF point in normal AF mode.

Also, the sweep spot for that combo will be around F8 for the best possible image quality.

quote author=Bruno97 link=topic=14164.msg272906#msg272906 date=1369403989]
I recently bought a 70-200 2.8 L II and then sold my 70-300 L. Tooking advantage of this sell and buying a 2x III extender was a big wait for me.

I recently had the opportunity to give the 2x III a try on my 70-200 2.8 II during a Canon show... and I was damn so disappointed !
I compared many shots @200mm f/2.8 vs @100mm+extender f/5.6 and I found the difference was more than noticeable in terms of sharpness in favor of the shots made @200mm f/2.8.

The Canon salesman couldn't agree more... he admitted the 1.4x & 2x extenders were not made to be combined with any 70-200 lens ! Their purpose is to be mounted with the long prime lens such over 300mm. Especially the newer versions III.

Honestly, I'm getting lost when I see some people posting sharp pictures with the 2x III - 70-200 2.8 L II combo.  :o
Please don't tell me Canon gave me a bad copy of their extender...
[/quote]

300
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon 5D Mk3 Reliability
« on: May 23, 2013, 04:55:58 PM »
My 5D III, pre-ordered before release so it was full price, initially under-exposed all shots by about 2/3 of a stop. It went off to Canon for repair/review, and came back within the week working fine.

Since then, it has very occasionally lost the will to focus, but turning it off and on again has cured that.

No other problems, and a real joy to use - particularly if you like low-light photography. I've certainly never regretted the decision to buy.

I keep it in silent shutter mode most of the time - the quietness is a real benefit. Sitting watching a school play when the official (commercial) photography snaps away with his noisy Nikon that can be heard across the room, and thinking I could do that so much more discretely has been a bitter-sweet experience.

Interesting that you say the exposure was under by 2/3rds of a stop - I also feel mine under-exposes too often by about that much but usually put that down to never picking the right metering for the subject! Joking aside, I've been taking pics for probably 30yrs so should've learnt about exposure by now and yet I feel the need to over-expose by half or 2/3rds of a stop almost all the time. I suppose this isn't a vast amount but it does make me frown at times. I wonder if Canon tweaked a software parameter or made a hardware adjustment. Any clues?

Anyone else concerned by their 5D3's metering? (I don't need anyone to tell us all to buy a 1DX instead, yawn.)

I usually shoot 1 to 2 stops over anyway and pull back down in post (as long as highlights are under control) Cuts the noise and banding down to nothing at higher ISO's.

And BTW, the 1DX also underexposes about 2/3 of a stop below the 5D3...but it also has an AE microadjustment setting so it can be tweaked....just sayin'

Pages: 1 ... 18 19 [20] 21 22 ... 47