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Messages - East Wind Photography

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286
Canon General / Re: A Rundown of EOS 7D Mark II Information
« on: August 15, 2014, 09:19:30 AM »
man, if half of that spec list comes true, and the launch price is $2k or less, I'm going to have a hard time waiting for refurbs to show up...


With the few rumored specs here this may be top of the line camera with an APS-C sensor that will target semi-pro and pro. My expectation is that the price will be in the same league as the 5D MKIII at launch.

When it was launched, though, the original 7D was exactly that, was it not? And it was $1799? Not saying it couldn't be as much as the 5d3, just that I don't think it necessarily will. I'm certainly not counting on $2k, but I'll be disappointed if it's north of $2500. Time will tell!

A couple of things that have been leaked will likely send this camera into the 4K range:

EOS 1 build quality
EOS 1DX type features

Those two bits of info are far better than the 7D ever was and while it comes close to the 5D3, the EOS 1 build quality will definitely demand a premium.  Consider this in the price range of the 1DIV with an inflation adjustment.

I'm guessing 3500 to 4200 for the body and leaning toward the upper end just because Canon will start out milking us for the R&D costs up front as they always do.



287
EOS Bodies / Re: A Bit of EOS 7D Replacement Info [CR2]
« on: August 11, 2014, 11:35:13 PM »
Very glad they omitted the touch screen and wifi.  Both just add extra cost, run down the battery quicker, and are pretty much useless IMHO.  If you need wifi, get an eye-fi card.

I still see this thing retailing at about 4-5K and will likely be bundled and offered first with a brand new 2800.00 lens.


288
EOS Bodies / Re: A Bit of EOS 7D Replacement Info [CR2]
« on: August 11, 2014, 11:25:37 AM »
There goes the price point then.  Early on everyone was expecting about a 2000.00 price point but lately with the talk of 1Dx type features and now the removal of Wifi, this body will likely be in 4000.00 range and Knowing Canon, I really expect it to be closer to 5000 or 6000.

Like another person pointed out, this will likely force a lot of people back down to the 70D.

No doubt however, this one will be an excellent model and look forward to depleting my account and any hope of getting that new Dodge Hellcat.

289
Lenses / Re: Canon EF 11-24 f/2.8L Coming [CR1]
« on: August 07, 2014, 05:31:12 PM »
And the REALLY bad news is that it will probably come bundled only with the new 7D replacement for preorders.  So we are looking at an initial kit purchase of close to 7000.00!!!

290
Lenses / Re: Canon EF 11-24 f/2.8L Coming [CR1]
« on: August 07, 2014, 04:44:38 PM »
Good God!  2800.00?  Must have added more Gold and Fluorite.  It's probably overpriced even at 1400.00

291
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: DXO uh-oh?
« on: August 06, 2014, 12:11:07 AM »
As DXO has given a near perfect score to the D810, they may have painted themselves into a corner. Their proprietary scale doesn't give DXO much room to heap hyperbolic praise on the next Nikon release.

http://nikonrumors.com/2014/07/24/nikon-d810-sensor-new-dxomark-leader.aspx/

This really isn't a surprise. DxO and Nikon are inseparably joined at the hip. Plus, all this really means, particularly the new 14.8 stops Print DR number, is that Nikon is cooking their RAW files EVEN MORE. Nikon/Sony's biggest "cheat" is the fact that they clip to black point, instead of offsetting to black point. Nikon cameras just throw away a lot of low-level signal information. The Sony Exmor sensor gives them more room to do that, for sure, but they are still throwing away information.

Canon, on the other hand, does not clip, they offset. So ALL the noise in the deep shadows of Canon's signal is still there (it's always there, in every sensor). Canon could probably achieve better results by using a more significant offset...and at times, as they have improved their sensor tech and increased their bit depth, they have changed their bias offset. It used to be 128 to 256 back in the 10-bit days, it was 512 to 1024 in the 12 bit days. I think it's 1024 or 2048 with 14-bit cameras.

The kicker is that RAW editors don't have to honor Canon's bias offset. The entire RAW signal is stored in Canon's files, and the offset is calibrated with a border of masked pixels. Who knows if editors like Lightroom, or DXO, or Aperture actually adhere to Canon's recommended offset. Even if they do, there is still negative signal information that can be pulled up, and the full noise signal is there. With Nikon RAW images...all that negative (deep noise) signal is simply discarded.

I use DeepSkyStacker and PixInsight to calibrate Canon RAW files for integration into a "stack". I use a 200-frame master bias image to subtract the bias signal from each light frame before integrating it. When the bias is removed from Canon RAW files, the dynamic range jumps by almost two stops...which puts it in the same range as Nikon files...

And still another way is to use magic lantern dual iso...which will enhance the DR of even an old canon camera...and its free.  Would not spend 3500.00 on a new body just to get more low iso DR and a few more MP.


292
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: DXO uh-oh?
« on: August 06, 2014, 12:00:28 AM »
I thought it was pretty well known now that the indicated ISO speeds on digital cameras are not consistent even from model to model from the same manufacturer. So for example ISO 100 on a 6D is actually 80, on a 5DII it is 73, and on a 5D 92.

This can be confirmed with an accurate hand held light meter. Set the meter to 100 and you get an under exposure of one third to two thirds depending on the camera you are using.

We can thank DxO for this information.

So to accurately measure that difference your really need to use the same lens.  Different lenses even if they are all F2.8 have different light transmission qualities.  The F2.8 is not an exact standard of light transmission.  For example an F2.8 prime will likely have better light transmission than an f2.8 zoom due to having less optical elements.  This difference is measurable.  The same holds for ISO measurements.  If you are not testing apples against apples then you cant really make the claim that ISO varies significantly when it could be the optics that are skewing the results.

This is particularly true when comparing different brands and sometimes models within the same brand if they have integrated optics or different sized sensors.


293
Lenses / Re: Soccer and Football IS Mode on 300L
« on: August 03, 2014, 10:39:27 PM »
I have great success with using IS mode 2 for Soccer and Football.  Mode 3 should work as well but there is not any benefit.  Mode 2 lets me hold focus better on the players faces.

I have taken shots extensively with and without IS enabled. As long as you use a fast shutter speed, the image will be frozen.  No difference in IQ with or without.  Note, I only use IS to allow me to hand hold and maintain a tight focus on the players faces.

Otherwise generally no need to use IS for sports.  Mode 3 wont help you hold the focus point as it activates only when the shutter is pressed.

294
EOS Bodies / Re: One other hoped-for feature on the 7D2
« on: July 29, 2014, 07:47:21 PM »
on the 5diii and 1dx you can program the set button to activate ISO on one of the wheels.  Forget auto ISO since you will ultimately get more noise than you want.  Use full manual and adjust ISO with set button and top wheel.  I've even learned to fire the shutter with my middle finger when speed is of the essence.


295
EOS-M / Re: The promised pics of the 18-200 Tammy
« on: July 17, 2014, 11:48:31 PM »
yeah purple fringing is a fairly minor concern these days

unless you are photographing something that is purple....

296
Software & Accessories / Re: Rain protection for 5D3 and lens
« on: July 14, 2014, 02:10:44 PM »
I have a 5D mark 3 and use it for airshows with a 70-200mm f2.8L IS II or a Tamron 150-600mm f5-6.3.

Looking for some rain protection that will cover both lenses (whatever one is attached at the time) and the body as I often have to shoot in rain and don't want the camera and lens getting soaked.

Any suggestions without breaking the bank too much?

In the past I have relied upon the "wife+umbrella" technique but wife will be missing from the next few airshows!

Cheers
Scott

I too have bought a number of rain covers...cheap and expensive.  For the 5D3 and weather sealed lenses, I now just use a towel or two.  Throw them over the lens and body and roll with it.  I've used that many times shooting soccer games.
 
If you end up being in a real gully washer, your not going to get much in the way of pictures anyway and thats the time to bag it or pop open the umbrella and wait it out.  Gotta dry it all out too before long term storage...no caps in this stage.

297
EOS Bodies / Re: The new APS-C Champ. (My wild guess).
« on: June 23, 2014, 10:35:10 PM »
Since most of the rumors coincide with “new” sensor technology, and significantly lower noise; My guess is that Canon has further evolved the Dual /( Multi) CMOS technology to acquire more light, while maintaining resolution???

Perhaps distributing pixels over multiple sensors, with a method of acquiring “even” light to each sensor element.   ( The only “current” manner of lowering APS-C noise is to reduce resolution/pixel-count.

Canon has a history of “field testing” new technology in lower priced cameras, hence the 70D.

Leigh
www.leighwax.com

I do expect that the 7D MK II will be a big improvement over the mk I. 
I do not expect more than one sensor in the camera, why would they use multiple sensors?
 
You cannot acquire more light by splitting a pixel in pieces, they gather photons according to the area, so you receive approximately the same number of photons overall.  The 70D does not acquire more light, but uses the dual pixel for phase detect autofocus.  Otherwise, its the same as other Canon sensors.
 
The split pixel technology potentially allows some other tricks like improving DR, and probably some that I'm not aware of.

Maybe dual sensors could be used, but not for what you think.  I could see a use to have multiple sensors, 1 for imaging, one for AF, one for the hybrid viewfinder (or maybe a dual pixel sensor that can perform AF and feed the hybrid viewfinder.

I would be willing to bet that the new models will just do away with the phase detect sensors that we know and have loved for all of these years.  A better full time contrast detect with higher speed AF with focus points anywhere across the sensor field.  Higher end models would be fully programmable on AF patterns.  Lower end would be fixed patterns.

We have already heard rumors of the 7D replacement having a larger "bump" on top.  How about a specialized prism that can split the image into multiple paths to multiple sensors.

It just seems to be the next logical progression from the dual pixel technology.

298
EOS Bodies / Re: New Sensor Tech in EOS 7D Mark II [CR2]
« on: June 20, 2014, 12:52:05 PM »
This has been another informative thread -- I'm learning a lot. Thanks guys and gals, especially jrista and others on the in-depth tech talk. Very cool stuff.

My guess is that if there's a big improvement in image quality from the sensor, it's probably produced on a new fab. That could also explain the delay in getting the 7DII out the door and perhaps the absence of patents that would point to something totally new.

On the patents things, there is another way they could bring something "totally new" (at least for Canon). They could license or buy a patent from another company. Any thoughts on this? Does Canon take too much pride in their own development to do this? Do they not need to because of the technology they're already working on? Is it still just market dominance that allows them to not need to make a huge leap? (Something tells me that while market dominance might mean they don't need to release a new leap in tech, it doesn't mean they aren't furiously working on developing new tech all the time.)

Anyway, I'm still guessing new fab, but what do you think? Any chance some other company's patent technology shows up in a new killer sensor for the 7DII?

Not sure how informative all of the opinions actually are.  I would be more interested in the opinion of the guy testing it at the world cup.  Short of that, all I want to know is when I can place my pre-order. 


299
Technical Support / Re: 5D3 Focus Screen Replacement - Alignment
« on: June 19, 2014, 10:58:54 PM »
Thanks, that is very helpful. Do you think removing it and blowing on it with a Giottos Rocket Air will be harmful? I would also like to confirm it is a mark on the focus screen and not somewhere else. Maybe looking at it with a sensor loupe?

I've found the OEM part for $15.88 shipped from http://myfriggincamera.com/store/. It seems easy enough to replace if I don't have to worry about shims.

What does the superfine Matt do for you? Better manual focus? I would not mind some kind of improvement in that area with something like a split focus when I'm manually focusing.

If it's an OEM screen then you wont need to add/remove/replace shims.  Even the screens at the site I posted are actual OEM screens that have been modified and put in kit form to work in the 5Diii.  Although I'm note sure it yours is actually a 5D3 or not.  They have ones for other models.

I would not deal with blowing anything into the camera body at all.  There is so much crap that is collected at the bottom of the sensor due to ultrasonic cleaning that a puff of air could lodge dust into the AF sensor.  As I stated I would just replace the screen or have Canon do it.  There is a LOT of risk in doing ANYTHING to clean it other than replace.  Even then there is some risk that dust will get on the new screen during installation.

I chose the superfine matte to allow me to get better focus on my faster lenses, particularly my 100 L macro.  However it does darken the view a bit and it's bothersome in bright sunlight.  I believe somewhere on their website they state the amount of light loss with the screen and that equates to a loss on your metering and hence overexposure.  It's the price we pay to use a different screen.

300
Technical Support / Re: 5D3 Focus Screen Replacement - Alignment
« on: June 19, 2014, 09:05:02 PM »
There appears to be either a small scratch or a hair that won't move. In reading about the subject, I see that this screen is very fragile and can be easily damaged by cleaning it. The hair/scratch is not in focus and has always been there just off the center focus ring. Since it is not in focus, I presume it is on the face of the focus screen? I should have taken care of this when I first noticed it, but thought it just needed to be cleaned. There are also now several small hairs that are in focus (damn cats). Can I remove the focus screen with the proper tools (JIS screwdriver, plastic anti-static tweezers), blow it off and install without affecting alignment?

None of these show in photos, so my only worry is resale value. I asked CPS twice to clean this mark and it returned still in tact and no word on what it is or what they did or whether they even looked at it.

I want to know more about the alignment and using shims. Would a stock replacement part number ( CY3-1655-000) require shims and advanced equipment to adjust the alignment or are the shims that Canon installed OK for any stock replacement? By that I mean are the shims based on the camera, the focus screen or a combination of both?

Again, my only real concern is resell value as anyone looking through the viewfinder will see this mark and several new hairs and reduce the value - or not even buy it. I may not even sell it, but just looking to the future possibilities.

So generally speaking the focus screen is not cleanable.  Any attempt to clean it will just deposit more dust somewhere else which is why Canon likely just left it.  Next time you should just ask them to replace it and not to clean it.

There are 3rd party focus screens available and they come with the tools and everything you need to do it yourself including shims.  The shims are used as spacers to adjust the position of the focus screen in relation to where the camera is focusing as in focus is off when you manually focus any lens.  Generally you dont need to mess with shims as they are added at the factory.  Sometimes they are needed when you use an aftermarket screen.

I got my super fine matte screen at http://www.focusingscreen.com

I lose about 3/4 stop on exposure in metering so everything is generally overexposed by that much.  However at least on the 5DIII I like that better for the way I shoot and post process.

I hope that was helpful.


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