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Messages - East Wind Photography

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EOS Bodies / Re: New Sensor Tech in EOS 7D Mark II [CR2]
« on: June 20, 2014, 12:52:05 PM »
This has been another informative thread -- I'm learning a lot. Thanks guys and gals, especially jrista and others on the in-depth tech talk. Very cool stuff.

My guess is that if there's a big improvement in image quality from the sensor, it's probably produced on a new fab. That could also explain the delay in getting the 7DII out the door and perhaps the absence of patents that would point to something totally new.

On the patents things, there is another way they could bring something "totally new" (at least for Canon). They could license or buy a patent from another company. Any thoughts on this? Does Canon take too much pride in their own development to do this? Do they not need to because of the technology they're already working on? Is it still just market dominance that allows them to not need to make a huge leap? (Something tells me that while market dominance might mean they don't need to release a new leap in tech, it doesn't mean they aren't furiously working on developing new tech all the time.)

Anyway, I'm still guessing new fab, but what do you think? Any chance some other company's patent technology shows up in a new killer sensor for the 7DII?

Not sure how informative all of the opinions actually are.  I would be more interested in the opinion of the guy testing it at the world cup.  Short of that, all I want to know is when I can place my pre-order. 

Technical Support / Re: 5D3 Focus Screen Replacement - Alignment
« on: June 19, 2014, 10:58:54 PM »
Thanks, that is very helpful. Do you think removing it and blowing on it with a Giottos Rocket Air will be harmful? I would also like to confirm it is a mark on the focus screen and not somewhere else. Maybe looking at it with a sensor loupe?

I've found the OEM part for $15.88 shipped from It seems easy enough to replace if I don't have to worry about shims.

What does the superfine Matt do for you? Better manual focus? I would not mind some kind of improvement in that area with something like a split focus when I'm manually focusing.

If it's an OEM screen then you wont need to add/remove/replace shims.  Even the screens at the site I posted are actual OEM screens that have been modified and put in kit form to work in the 5Diii.  Although I'm note sure it yours is actually a 5D3 or not.  They have ones for other models.

I would not deal with blowing anything into the camera body at all.  There is so much crap that is collected at the bottom of the sensor due to ultrasonic cleaning that a puff of air could lodge dust into the AF sensor.  As I stated I would just replace the screen or have Canon do it.  There is a LOT of risk in doing ANYTHING to clean it other than replace.  Even then there is some risk that dust will get on the new screen during installation.

I chose the superfine matte to allow me to get better focus on my faster lenses, particularly my 100 L macro.  However it does darken the view a bit and it's bothersome in bright sunlight.  I believe somewhere on their website they state the amount of light loss with the screen and that equates to a loss on your metering and hence overexposure.  It's the price we pay to use a different screen.

Technical Support / Re: 5D3 Focus Screen Replacement - Alignment
« on: June 19, 2014, 09:05:02 PM »
There appears to be either a small scratch or a hair that won't move. In reading about the subject, I see that this screen is very fragile and can be easily damaged by cleaning it. The hair/scratch is not in focus and has always been there just off the center focus ring. Since it is not in focus, I presume it is on the face of the focus screen? I should have taken care of this when I first noticed it, but thought it just needed to be cleaned. There are also now several small hairs that are in focus (damn cats). Can I remove the focus screen with the proper tools (JIS screwdriver, plastic anti-static tweezers), blow it off and install without affecting alignment?

None of these show in photos, so my only worry is resale value. I asked CPS twice to clean this mark and it returned still in tact and no word on what it is or what they did or whether they even looked at it.

I want to know more about the alignment and using shims. Would a stock replacement part number ( CY3-1655-000) require shims and advanced equipment to adjust the alignment or are the shims that Canon installed OK for any stock replacement? By that I mean are the shims based on the camera, the focus screen or a combination of both?

Again, my only real concern is resell value as anyone looking through the viewfinder will see this mark and several new hairs and reduce the value - or not even buy it. I may not even sell it, but just looking to the future possibilities.

So generally speaking the focus screen is not cleanable.  Any attempt to clean it will just deposit more dust somewhere else which is why Canon likely just left it.  Next time you should just ask them to replace it and not to clean it.

There are 3rd party focus screens available and they come with the tools and everything you need to do it yourself including shims.  The shims are used as spacers to adjust the position of the focus screen in relation to where the camera is focusing as in focus is off when you manually focus any lens.  Generally you dont need to mess with shims as they are added at the factory.  Sometimes they are needed when you use an aftermarket screen.

I got my super fine matte screen at

I lose about 3/4 stop on exposure in metering so everything is generally overexposed by that much.  However at least on the 5DIII I like that better for the way I shoot and post process.

I hope that was helpful.

Well lots of advice from everyone.  However i will say that afma will not work as expected with the setup that you have.  The camera will ultimately use the ruler in some af calculations.

The best way without buying reikan focal (and i have never had much luck with Focal) is to tape a full sheet of news print on a wall and take 5 shots at each major afma setting 0 5 10 15 20 and 25 as well as the negative ranges.  Use 100% view on a computer to evaluate the images.  Once you determine the clearest ones then you can do then same + and - for every afma step 5 up and 5 down from that major setting.

Dont eval on the lcd screen or you will never get it right.

Another factor is to focus at the farthest distance your setup will allow.  Some lenses also have different afma settings depending on your focus distance.  Quite annoying.

Hi Folks.
Is there anyone that doesn't want AFMA? I know a few of you say that you need no AFMA on your lenses, but when you do get a lens which is not perfectly matched to your camera you will find it invaluable.

Cheers Graham.

But unless he really needs AFMA (and maybe he does - I have no idea),

particularly when you use your lenses wider than f8.

Do you guys know if ML does Focus bracketing (very helpful for Macro for example).

Yes, I know. Yes, ML does it.

Btw concerning easy installation: There is an implicit reason for this not being 110% advertised, next to the devs hating to write docs: If you cannot install ML with the current procedure you most likely won't be happy with it, it's not completely "works out of the box" and does need some getting into.

Id be happy to work on docs over the summer.  July timeframe.  Would need a path to get additional info on some functions and settings.  I'll drop you an email in private and we can see where we are and where we want it to go.

Extremely kind of you !

i am  a big ML user and not a developer.  Personally i could care less about in camera documents.  i usually carry all of my gears canon docs on my tablet.  though i could concede that a camera function should have some kind of description.  such as "dual iso - single shot HDR module".

I used to borrow a T3i from my brother. Now I have saved up some money to buy a camera body for myself. I dont wanna use a rebel body coz my friends are all semi-pro bodies user. They look great and are more sturdy in their built.

For the money I have, I can afford a 50D, 60D or a 7D body.

Locally in Toronto, I can grab a 50D for $400, a 60D for $550 or a 7D for $750.

I made some inquiries responding to some CL ads and got some exciting responses.

1. A 2 years old 7D with under 10k actuation with original everything for $750. It comes with a 16gb Cf card as well. I like the built, the speed and the badge. That's my no.1 choice.

2. A 6 months old 60D with may be 4k actuation with 2 years extended warranty. No card but come with an additional third party battery. Seller told me he bought it during last boxing sale for $800 plus tax with 18 200 kit lens but now will keep the lens and sell the body for lowest $530 to me. The good point is the like new condition and warranty. But it is not the 7D and no AFMA if I need it.

3. A 50D with 14k, seems well used. Asking $450. Obviously, it's least attractive to me.

My camera will be mainly for landscape and portrait shooting. Little chance to do sports and wildlife etc at this moment. I may start learning to shoot video as well. I have access to some nice lenses. Family members are generous to share. I will buy a few primes later.

Then. Which camera body should I buy?  Which  one will hold better value? I don't want a T4i, T5i  or an old FF 5D and I can't afford
A 70D. My choice seems limited. I guess I will go for one of the above.

Help me with my choice please.

Of those three i would choose the 7d.  It is the best choice ofmthe three and will suit you well when you switch to video.  The 7d build and firmware is much more capable than the other consumer models.  The 7d may come down in price later this year when the 7d mark ii is announced.  If you dont need it right away then wait a bit and see.  Otherwise just buy it and enjoy shooting.

5D MK III Sample Images / Re: 5D MK III Images
« on: May 31, 2014, 10:55:37 PM »
The recent lunar eclipse with the blue star Spica as a bonus.
300L f2.8 + 1.4X  Click on the image for larger

Your images:  WOW!

Thanks guys :)

Lunar Eclipse with Spica 14 Apr 2014 © Keith Breazeal by Keith Breazeal Photography, on Flickr

Nice shot.  I tried but it rained where i was.  Glad you shared.  We get another chance in october i believe.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Rant about 5DIII
« on: May 31, 2014, 10:48:32 PM »
Never thought I'd be writing this, but I want to write it and get it out of my system so I don't have any more ill-feeling left about this little guy:
1. Truly surprised about the difference between 8fps and 6fps. I was shooting a commencement ceremony and trying to get the 'toss the mortarboards' shot. Boy, was it getting frustrating catching the mortarboard while still within the frame (and yes, I started clicking even before it was being tossed). Nothing like this with my 7D. Could the frame rate be restricted under certain conditions?
2. The lack of AF point illumination in Servo mode is very annoying. With dimly lit subjects in a mostly dark background, I kept losing them. And I had to stick with f/2.8 because I was using 200mm (so at least 1/250) and ISO 1600. I know pros would be fine with these, but I was terrified I shall miss the moments by focusing somewhere else...
Ok, I'm done. It was all right eventually. Just too nerve-wracking at the time.

So yes there are other conditions that can affect frame rates.  Many of the settings can slow it down, particularly those that wait for focus before firing the shutter.  In low light the af can slow down and hunt more often.  Also ive noticed a condition at least when using a grip that if the battery is less than 50% drive mode slows way down.  Dont know if thats the case without the grip as i always use one.

So a couple of things that can help you out.  I comfigre the depth of field preview button (the one in front by your grip fingers) to toggle between servo and one shot.  When im in a situation where servo is not cutting it either with af hunt or inability to see af points, i just push to toggle one shot and get the shot.  You can release it fast enough to go right into drive mode once you have your af point where you want it.

Not ideal but it does help quite a bit.

Do you guys know if ML does Focus bracketing (very helpful for Macro for example).

Yes, I know. Yes, ML does it.

Btw concerning easy installation: There is an implicit reason for this not being 110% advertised, next to the devs hating to write docs: If you cannot install ML with the current procedure you most likely won't be happy with it, it's not completely "works out of the box" and does need some getting into.

Id be happy to work on docs over the summer.  July timeframe.  Would need a path to get additional info on some functions and settings.  I'll drop you an email in private and we can see where we are and where we want it to go.

EOS Bodies / Re: New Full Frame Camera in Testing? [CR1]
« on: May 27, 2014, 07:21:33 PM »
Cool a better camera than the 1dx.  Get ready for a 9000.00 camera body.


Dear Friend Scott_McPhee .
The PRO call us " Uncle Bob"----That Include ME, ( Some times)---BUT only time that The Bride and Groom / My Close relative ask me to take the photos in their wedding for them, AND they  truss me and do not like their Dad& Mom hire that Professional Photogrraphers.
BUT, My rules : When, I am at the Wedding, I( Camera gears in the trunk of my SUV) go to talk to the PRO , tell them that I am her uncle ( of the Bride), and the Bride & Groom want me to take the Candid Photos for them , Just for FUN. Yes, I tell them that I will not use Flash, And Use the Long Zoom lens at the back or at the Sides of their Photographers, Never at their front, or in their Pictures.----Tell them, If they do not like , Please go to tell the Bride to stop me, And I will not  take any Photos. But If you stop me, There are 1,000 guests in this ceremony will use their I-Phones, Tablets, Canon 1DX or Nikon D4 to take the wedding photos any ways.

I do like this for last 20  years,  And NO PRO will refuse my offer----Ha, Ha, Ha, EXCEPT ONE PRO, after they see my Photography Equipment include  Canon 600 mm Lens  that I use for shooting from the Balcony of the Sanctuary 300 feet from Altar, where the Wedding ceremony take place---In Candle light Lit, And He came to ask me to share these photos, Yes, I let him use my big lens with his Canon T3

If you are " Uncle Bob" like me,  Please talk to The PRO first, before you interrupt  their paid duty, BUT if you are the PRO, please understand that " USA, land, are the land of freedom---any one can do any thing / Under the laws, as their wishes---And You, THE PRO do not worry about UNCLE BOB, His photos might like the SH_T, when compare to the PRO like you. Let uncle BOB happy and smile in this wedding---YES, the Most important factors = Uncle Bob will spend $ 1,000 US Dollars to buy the prints from you, and give to Bride and Groom.

Just my IDEAS.---Only my Ideas---Many of our friends might have very difference Ideas.
Have a great work week, Sir.

If you are an uncle Bob at a wedding I shoot and bring your 600mm lens, and let me borrow it, I will let you stand wherever you wish   :) 
The only uncle Bob's I have problems with are the ones who were going to shoot the wedding but at the last minute the couple panics and thinks a pro might be the way to go.  Then poor Bob's feelings get hurt and he still tries to shoot the wedding like it's his.  That's when I have to start (like in the video you attached) have to unfortunately start stepping in front of him/her.  Thank goodness that's been very rare.  And you're right, there are lot's of uncle Bobs at weddings and you have to learn very quickly how to get over that and work around it if needed because it's not something that will every go away. 
And nice to hear you , surapon, are a considerate Bob.  But I'm not surprised.  From the posts of yours that I've seen, you seem like one of the most polite and considerate people I've never had the pleasure of meeting.

I've been "Uncle Bob" at a couple of weddings... except I go talk to the photographer and offer to be an unpaid second (or third) shooter for the day and tell them they can copy my memory cards at the end of the day and use the pictures... Far better to be an assistant than an annoyance... and a second shooter who knows who in the crowd is important is a valuable asset.

Dear Sir, My friend Don Haines .
WOW, That are a great IDEA, "except I go talk to the photographer and offer to be an unpaid second (or third) shooter for the day and tell them they can copy my memory cards at the end of the day and use the pictures "---Thank you , sir= I will do next time, and use your Fantastic Idea= Great Both ways for the PRO and us, Plus in your case, The PRO will love your PHOTOS, and offer money to pay your in next wedding as the Staff.
Long, Long time ago, I volunteer with  the PRO/ Wedding Photographer as the Light Man and Use my Point and shoot Camera to record the Way  of the PRO work, and give the copy of my photos to them too, for their record. Yes, Sir, I have learn from them, what are they doing, And Use with my own technique to improve for my Tricks.
Yes, Sir, I tell my friends/ Photographers about this way that I learn, Most of them laugh at me, Tell me that, What in the world to do the slave job with out paid----Ha, Ha, Ha, They are wrong---In my IDEA, But they so proud of them self.
Nice to talk to you, Sir.
Have a great week.

I usually just show uncle bob where the bar is and encourage him to enjoy himself.  ;)

EOS-M / Re: Export from camera to USB flash drive
« on: May 13, 2014, 09:30:59 PM »
If you have a cellphone with USB OTG support, it can act as the host. You'd plug the phone, camera and the flash drive into a USB hub, and copy between the two drives using a file manager app on the phone. Note that most phones with OTG still need the peripherals to be powered.

Now that sounds like an interesting plan.  Hell id carry a powered usb hd around if i could get that to work.  ;). I now have a mission for the next week.

Any ideas which phones support OTG?

EOS-M / Re: Export from camera to USB flash drive
« on: May 13, 2014, 09:27:27 PM »
Well you have a couple of options but no direct path to a usb stick.  You can use a mifi card if your camera has an sd slot.  The other option is to export to a tablet.  Apple makes a connecting cable and has software built into ios to dump raw down to the tablet.  I cant speak for android or windows based tablets but would assume they have some similer capability.

Not exactly what you were asking for but its the smallest usb storage i can find that works.

You probably mean an Eye-Fi card, and for writing RAW files they are unworkably slow.

Are you sure you can shoot tethered to an iPad? My Camera Connector Kit, the dongle that gives you a USB port on the iPad, only recognizes the camera when in playback mode.

Oops you are quite right.  I meant eye-fi.  I had wireless on the a mifi with an eye-fi might be actually very helpful... But yes it would be slow transfering raw files.

On the ipad yes it only supports play mode not full remote shoot tethering.  However the discussion was about connecting a usb drive to the camera.  With the ipad at least...probobly ipod too, in playback mode you can transfer jpg or raw from the camera to the ipad as well as optionally delete them off the camera.  Not sure which version this started in.  Has been useful at times when i need to grab a shot, process it with Snapseed and send it on its way to the client.

This has been going on for years since the affordable development of the personal camera.  It is nothing new that has come about since the digital revolution.

Only the fittest survive my friend and there is not much that can be done about it except to change your attitude about the matter.  I agree with other posters here that its about people management and often word of mouth referrals.

Photography is not the only profession that suffers from this.  Make your customers happy and they will boast to all of their friends about the wonderful job you did.

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