May 19, 2013, 08:02:26 PM

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Messages - digital paradise

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76
I wound up buying a 3rd 600 so I'm set. Got it on Tuesday. I never see Canon responding here. Have you tried the new Canon Forums? They responded to the 5D3 AF assist issue in those forums.

http://forums.usa.canon.com

77
Software & Accessories / Re: Backpack Suggestion
« on: February 28, 2013, 02:01:20 PM »
Whatever you choose be sure to always zip it up before you pick it up.

78
My new 70-200 is plus 2 @ 70 and plus 18 @ 200. It is go ing to Canon

79
You are supposed to MFA at the longest focal length. Probably to the second question. If you have a camera like the 5D3 you are covered at both ends.     

80
Software & Accessories / Re: Does DPP run in Mountain Lion?
« on: February 27, 2013, 06:19:30 PM »
Yes

81
I would love to see an app for this. I don't really want to download ML at this point. Something that worked like this. It could do several LV readings, establish the best one and then run through the - + routine several times. You could do this anywhere in minutes.

http://www.shutterbugremote.com

82
Lighting / Re: 2 flash setup advice
« on: February 26, 2013, 03:46:04 PM »
That said it is ETTL. A great tool but is subject to many variables. There is a pre flash that determines correct flash exposure. Much like your camera's light meter (NOTE: The cameras light meter has nothing to do with the flash).

I'm not sure what your intended meaning was but for the sake of clarity, E-TTL II does use the camera's metering system. The 580EX II has an external meter which can be optionally used instead of E-TTL II but it has few if any practical advantages other than allowing automatic flash exposure off-camera when using dumb (non-E-TTL II) triggers.


I said the flash system does not use the cameras light meter. It meters ambient only. The flash system does use ETTL but for flash exposure purposes only.

83
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Question about BH used dept
« on: February 25, 2013, 08:39:13 PM »
That was a good point. B&H is an excellent company to deal with but for $15 I'd probably do it in the case. For brand new gear if it is going to fail it will within the manufactures warranty period so that is why I avoid extended warranties. Had a few items that did not cooperate but where not that expensive and after 20+ years I'm well ahead of that game.     

84
Technical Support / Re: Sharpening question for Photoshop experts
« on: February 25, 2013, 12:18:52 PM »
So for my personal/hobby/web stuff I use PS and this. For mass edits I just use Lightroom's output sharpening on the export page. I do apply masking in the detail pallet in both PS and LR for all my my images. 

85
Software & Accessories / Re: Lightroom 4
« on: February 25, 2013, 12:16:21 PM »
I keep it simple. Spend enough time to choose the best parameters, and then save as JPEG. I use default sharpening unless I print big.

LR gives you much more freedom in the conversion than DPP. I wish it were not catalog oriented. For people like me, who use it as a converter only, "importing" is a unnecessary annoying step.


It is also much faster. Before LR I converted using DPP and then edited in PS. Add all the resizing and sharpening actions. A real nightmare. LR must have cut my PP time at least in half.     

I typically choose Standard for output sharpening. In your opinion which is the better media selection when the client does not know what type paper they will print on  Matte or Glossy?  I usually go Matte as my guess is most don't go full gloss.   


I do not use outputs sharpening, so I do not know. When printing small - does not really matter. For large print, I sharpen in PS. And I am my own (only) client.  :)


Oh I see. It is not like I have a lot of clients. I use PS for my personal/hobby shots as well. You might be interested in this. Reply #17

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=13130.15

86
Technical Support / Re: Sharpening question for Photoshop experts
« on: February 25, 2013, 12:08:21 PM »
This by far is the best sharpening method I have found to date. I created an action that resizes the image before it does it's thing. The great part about this method is it is edge sharpening and you can feather back at at the end if you over sharpen. My default amount 300. No two images are alike. Some can stay at 300 and others I have to feather back to 50.

When you open a RAW file and do your preliminary sharpening (capture sharpening) apply masking in the detail pallet which makes it even better as even at that stage you are not sharpening any noise the image may have. I wind up setting it at about 80 most of the time. Press the Option key on a MAC if you are trying this. Not sure which key for PC.       

http://www.earthboundlight.com/phototips/photoshop-really-smart-sharpening.html?search=edge+mask&bool=and

I made a tutorial which has my action you can download.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1099897

Using this method. 7D and 300L F4 IS. Click on it to see the full size.   


87
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: 600 rt set up question
« on: February 25, 2013, 11:44:32 AM »
Nice MOD, I may try that as well.  I have the ST-E3 now and 2 600's.  I just did a shoot where the recycle time seemed really damn slow on my 600.  I don't know why, but it was unusually slower.  I missed several shots.  Still think I may opt for a strobe unit like an excalibur, but so far, I really enjoy my 600's.

The instant rebate is over in 3 days so I just ordered my 3rd 600 yesterday. It will give me a lot of options. 3 light set up for studio and two units on stands with one on camera in a hall type of situation. If Canon ever comes out with a STE3 with AF assist I might get that as well. We'l see.

May as well as too. What type of batteries?         

88
Software & Accessories / Re: Lightroom 4
« on: February 25, 2013, 10:48:47 AM »
I keep it simple. Spend enough time to choose the best parameters, and then save as JPEG. I use default sharpening unless I print big.

LR gives you much more freedom in the conversion than DPP. I wish it were not catalog oriented. For people like me, who use it as a converter only, "importing" is a unnecessary annoying step.

It is also much faster. Before LR I converted using DPP and then edited in PS. Add all the resizing and sharpening actions. A real nightmare. LR must have cut my PP time at least in half.     

I typically choose Standard for output sharpening. In your opinion which is the better media selection when the client does not know what type paper they will print on  Matte or Glossy?  I usually go Matte as my guess is most don't go full gloss.   

89
Software & Accessories / Re: AFMA advice sought
« on: February 25, 2013, 10:22:52 AM »
This is great stuff from ML. Thanks for sharing.

In regards to Focal's AFMA, at what aperture should you perform Focal's AFMA test? I think i had it wide open during the test, is that ok or are we supposed to stop it down to something smaller like 5.6 or 8?

Generally test wide open... In fact, only the Pro version let's you select f/stops other than wide open...

Thanks ^_^

Yep. 5.8 or 8 defeats the purpose because you will have a deep DOF and you will likely not notice a focus issue. Wide open is where you are going to see any issues.     

90
Lighting / Re: 2 flash setup advice
« on: February 25, 2013, 10:16:33 AM »
Technically ETTL is supposed to compensate so if one flash is more powerful so it should balance out. You won't be adjusting ratios because of that. You will want some difference between you key and fill lights. 

That said it is ETTL. A great tool but is subject to many variables. There is a pre flash that determines correct flash exposure. Much like your camera's light meter (NOTE: The cameras light meter has nothing to do with the flash) a bride in a white dress, a groom in a black tux and the bride and groom will all reflect light back differently. Typically the white dress will underexpose and the tux will overexpose.

What are your plans? Studio work? If so and if you have the time to set up I highly recommend setting your flashes on manual. Work on one flash at a time. Set the correct exposure for your key flash and then your fill can be 1 to 2 stops less power for starters. Once you set your exposures they will be consistent all day no matter who is in the frame. Also if you are doing studio I suggest a third flash for rim or highlight. Placed behind and to the side it highlights the hair on the back of the head, etc and gives some separation. You can a cheap manual Yongnuo for that.

So if you can describe what you will be doing we might be able to give you more tips.         

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