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Messages - digital paradise

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91
Sorry if this sounds obvious, but are you applying decent output sharpening when you are finished editing the photo? The AA filter on Canon is strong and sharpening is required for enhancement of the details.

There is another option. If it is critical to the OP can have the AA filter removed. I have contemplated getting a used 20D and trying it just to before destroying any new camera I have but have never gotten around to it. I doubt I ever will.   

92
HELP!


HCB ... "Sharpness is a bourgeois concept"

Good one. H. Cartier Bresson.  Although this not the most important part of the photography I want to know that I can achieve a tack sharp image when I want it. Ansel Adams is my hero and mentor but he was not a birder. I worked just as hard learning how to get sharp images in the digital world as I did learning the zone system. 

A well composed interesting shot will trump a boring shot but an interesting OOF bird in flight shot is useless in the bird forums and competitions. Of course I'm excluding intentional blurred wings, etc shots that can make BIF shots very interesting. I think being able to handle all situations is OK as well but I'm not HCB so what do I know.

Only reason I did put all that effort into it was when I started looking at bird images on line they blew me away just like Ansel's work did 40 years ago. I figured if that person could do it, so could I.                       


93
Thanks Spooky. You are correct. 7D is good camera but has a light hungry sensor. Exposure is key as it is not as forgiving as a FF or other crop sensors. Pack that many megapickles on a crop sensor you get great resolution which I'm grateful for but you pay for elsewhere. As sensor tech gets better that will improve.       

94
I do OK with my 7D but you can't beat FF. I would not compare my 7D to my 5D3 

My 7D



Original






Original



I have never really been able to achieve what you want either but this has not prevented me from creating tack sharp prints or on line images. There are a lot of factors involved but PP is important as well. Maybe you are looking for this clarity before PP but here are a few PP tips. Every sensor has an AA filter which corrects Moire patterns and all are different strengths. There are 3 phases of sharpening - capture, creative and output.

Capture you sharpen to compensate for the AA filter when you open the RAW file. Creative is selective sharpening. Eyes only, lips. Stuff like that. Output is for media type - paper or screen? Output sharpening is very important as well.     
 
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/image-sharpening.htm

Resizing and sharpening methods are pretty important too. They both work together.

Photoshop Top 40 #3 - Image Size

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmLDw124uUA&feature=player_embedded#!

This is by far my most favourite sharpening method. It is edge sharpening and I sharpen to 300 because you can feather back at the end. No two images are alike.
 
http://www.earthboundlight.com/phototips/photoshop-really-smart-sharpening.html?search=edge+mask&bool=and

I wrote a tutorial which has an action that includes resizing you are welcome to. I used resizing and sharpening methods based on the two videos I posted.       

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1099897&highlight=really+smart+sharpening

Finally use the masking when you open a raw file. Hold the Option Key (not sure about PC) as you slide to see results. Also edge sharpening. Only the white areas are sharpened so background noise is not.  I'm usually at about at 80.

   

Good luck

95
Software & Accessories / Re: Anyone know where I can buy 5D Mkii parts
« on: March 18, 2013, 11:38:28 AM »
You located in the states? Canon USA parts  1-866-481-2569.

96
Technical Support / Re: Aperture/Shutter speed/ISO
« on: March 18, 2013, 02:13:49 AM »
Actually the suggestions about taking some courses is very good. I did that in 2005 and they were very helpful. Film was expensive so I used to just shoot in program mode. Instant results with digital and at virtually no cost really changed things. Very cool when you get over the peak of this learning curve. I don't think I could go back to being stuck with only one ISO. 

Same goes for flash. I was asked to shoot a wedding about 4 years ago so that forced me to take lighting courses which were terrific.. Nice to control your equipment instead of our equipment controlling you.

97
Technical Support / Re: Aperture/Shutter speed/ISO
« on: March 18, 2013, 02:01:35 AM »
Each to his own but I think that is border lien. I was maxed out on my 7D. Night game, F4 lens and at 12,800 I could only get to 1/500. Hands and feet have motion blur. I wish I could have prevented this with a higher speed. You can create prop blur on a plane at 1/320.   



This is where technology comes in to help.  A lens that goes f/2.8 lowers your ISO automatically from 12,800 to 6400.  And if you have yet a camera that handles super high ISO's, 6400 is easy and now you have a very clean photo.  You could then raise shutter back up to 1/800 and shoot at ISO 10,000 and still have very acceptable files.  This is an extreme example, however.  Looking at your file, though, I think you did very well.

I did not have a 2.8 lens telephoto at the time or I would have used it. Used my 300 F4 IS. The term fast lens really hit home that night. I just picked up the new 70-200 2.8

98
Technical Support / Re: Aperture/Shutter speed/ISO
« on: March 17, 2013, 09:09:46 PM »
Each to his own but I think that is border lien. I was maxed out on my 7D. Night game, F4 lens and at 12,800 I could only get to 1/500. Hands and feet have motion blur. I wish I could have prevented this with a higher speed. You can create prop blur on a plane at 1/320.   


99
Technical Support / Re: Aperture/Shutter speed/ISO
« on: March 17, 2013, 07:08:13 PM »
Forgot. Every time you make the shutter faster, close down the aperture (16 to 1.4) or both you let less light getting in to the sensor. Reversed when you slow the shutter down or open the aperture. Need to pay attention to the light meter. If you can't get it in the centre for what you want to increase or decrease the ISO.         

100
Technical Support / Re: Aperture/Shutter speed/ISO
« on: March 17, 2013, 07:03:01 PM »
First you typically want the lowest ISO for your application. Second you need the fastest shutter speed to be able to avoid camera shake and freeze you subject. Sports you want a fast shutter. 1/1000 or better. Someone sitting 1/60 will do. Rule of thumb for avoiding camera shake is shutter should be be one stop faster than the focal length. 50mm = 1/60. 300mm = 1/320. YOu can lower that a bit if your lens has IS. I usually always go much higher. Better for me.

Next is DOF which you control via the aperture. Shallow or deep. Shallow means a persons face is in focus and everything is out of focus. Deep means everything in the image is in focus. Shallow = 1.4. Deep = 16. Here is where you are creative. Not to say you can't be creative with shutter speeds. You may want motion blur.

DOF calculator. Distance to subject is very important when you are shooting shallow.   

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

I will always sacrifice ISO and aperture if I want to freeze my subject. I can fix noise from high ISO and I can live with a blurred background if my subject is in focus if I need to open up the aperture to maintain shutter a fast speed. You can not fix a blurry, OOF image.

Everything above is a slave to exposure. You have to keep the camera's light meter in the middle - for starters. Later you need to learn how your camera meter works. How to expose for back lit subjects, how to expose for pure black or pure white subjects. Those are extremes but you need to know that. A 50% black and 50% white subject will expose properly when the meter is in the middle.                               

Play with this for a while and you will start to get the hang of it. 

http://camerasim.com/camera-simulator/

101
Canon General / Re: Why did you choose Canon?
« on: March 14, 2013, 10:49:47 PM »
I was told by a camera jet eye  to stay a way from the dark side

Good one!!! Thanks for the laugh. Gonna add that one to my set.   

102
Canon General / Re: Why did you choose Canon?
« on: March 13, 2013, 10:57:09 PM »
20D was the cream of the crop when I went digital. Nikon was still using the inferior CCD sensor. 

103
Software & Accessories / Re: Help on interpreting FoCal results
« on: March 13, 2013, 10:54:39 PM »
If your gear is under warranty then you will not be charged for adjustments.

104
No problem. This was my mission. The OP asked how to use NR correctly so that was what I demonstrated. I did not use ACR NR when I had CS5 so I can't compare but I believe you. 3rd party might slightly be better but not at the level you are looking for, I don't think anyway. Hopefully what you are seeking will come out.       

105
That is the whole thing. LR/ACR NR is excellent. You might be able to a difference that the pixel level but at the end of the day will another person notice the difference. I have not touched either NIK Dfine or Topaz in a year. Workflow is so much easier working with Adobe products.     

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