3196
Lenses / Re: "Zoom Creep" on the 24-105L : My Solution
« on: October 14, 2012, 12:31:07 PM »
Your 24-105mm has zoom creep?!? 
Guess I'm lucky, mine stays put.
Guess I'm lucky, mine stays put.
June 18, 2013, 01:25:04 AM
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3197
Software & Accessories / Re: Arca-Swiss requires plate
« on: October 14, 2012, 10:37:43 AM »One word of caution regarding the QR lever, is if you're carrying your tripod over your shoulder, is to make sure that the you don't accidentally catch the QR lever on a piece of clothing (that could actually open it) when you bring the tripod back down to ground level. I have never done this, but I'm aware of it. The QR lever actually has a tight fit against the clamp, so there's probably only a very slim chance of catching it. Some QR levers like the Arca Swiss brand have a lock, which is a nice touch.
I do have the lever clamps on my RRS ballhead and gimbal head, and the clamp on the leveling base that lets me quickly switch between them is also a lever.
But, the above concern is why I went with the screw clamp for the monopod head, as I'm more likely to carry that on my shoulder with the lens mounted, while wearing a backpack, and when carried like that the monopod head rides closer to the shoulder (much thinner diameter than a tripod). The clamp release knob is about half the diameter of the tilt knob, making it pretty unlikely to grab the wrong one, IMO.
3198
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: 600EX-RT and Wattseconds - rating?
« on: October 14, 2012, 08:36:41 AM »
Guide number is not directly comparable to Watt seconds for several reasons, but a reasonable approximation of the 600's output is 60-80 Ws (obviously far short of a monolight).
3199
Lenses / Re: Kenko TC - 2 models - which one to buy?
« on: October 14, 2012, 08:19:02 AM »
The reports of f/8 AF that I've seen have been with the Teleplus Pro 300 DGX.
3200
Software & Accessories / Re: Arca-Swiss requires plate
« on: October 14, 2012, 07:50:39 AM »While you're checking out RSS plates, also have a look at their ballheads, which're awesome.Yes, the BH-55 looks really nice. Do you have a RRS ball head?
I've got the BH-55 as well, and it's excellent, as is all the RRS gear I've got (which is a lot - TVC-33 legs w/ leveling base clamp, PG-02 LLR gimbal for the supertele, rail that turns the gimbal into a full multi row pano rig, monopod and tilt head, etc.). Their stuff is universally high quality, but also thoughtfully designed with ease of use and modularity in mind. The pano use for the gimbal is one example, another is the L-bracket for the 1D X, which converts between L and just the base plate (better bag fit if not bringing tripod), and the allen key to do that stores inside the plate.
The Z1 looks like an excellent ballhead, especially after the two redesigns it has undergone - they first changed the pan lock knob design, then later moved the position of the drop notch relative to the main knob (I suspect the latter may be recent, because the product pic on Adorama isn't a pic, it's a CAD drawing).
3201
Software & Accessories / Re: Arca-Swiss requires plate
« on: October 13, 2012, 11:02:15 PM »
Yes, that plate will fit right into the Arca Z1 clamp, and is a custom fit to your 5DIII - provided you don't use it with a battery grip, else you need a different plate.
Or consider the L-bracket, instead: http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=B5D3-LA, for better balance in portrait orientation on the ballhead.
As for the 200/2, correct - you'd need a lens plate (or replacement foot) for that.
Personally, I have AS-type plates/L-brackets on both bodies and all tripod collar feet, except the 600L II where replaced the Canon foot with the RRS foot. I have two tripods, one of which has both a ballhead and a gimbal, and a monopod as well, all with AS-type clamps. More importantly, I use Blackrapid straps to carry my gear when in use, and I've got Kirk 1" clamps on the ends of those straps. So, I can attach a strap to a body or lens for best balance, freely move attachment points when I change lenses, and mount to ballhead/gimbal/monopod quickly, as needed.
Or consider the L-bracket, instead: http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=B5D3-LA, for better balance in portrait orientation on the ballhead.
As for the 200/2, correct - you'd need a lens plate (or replacement foot) for that.
Personally, I have AS-type plates/L-brackets on both bodies and all tripod collar feet, except the 600L II where replaced the Canon foot with the RRS foot. I have two tripods, one of which has both a ballhead and a gimbal, and a monopod as well, all with AS-type clamps. More importantly, I use Blackrapid straps to carry my gear when in use, and I've got Kirk 1" clamps on the ends of those straps. So, I can attach a strap to a body or lens for best balance, freely move attachment points when I change lenses, and mount to ballhead/gimbal/monopod quickly, as needed.
3202
Software & Accessories / Re: Arca-Swiss requires plate
« on: October 13, 2012, 07:43:32 PM »
I see the 200/2L in your sig - I'd look at either the Wimberley P-20 plate or the RRS replacement foot for the 200/2.
3203
Software & Accessories / Re: Cover for Manfrotto 055xprob + 498rc2
« on: October 13, 2012, 05:38:38 PM »
By 'cover' do you mean a tripod carrying bag? The Manfrotto MBAG80 will hold it, comes in padded and unpadded versions. There are plenty of 3rd party bags. Basically, measure your tripod+head and google/Amazon 'tripod bag'.
3204
Animal Kingdom / Re: Sherlock Holmes tracks down the Culpret.
« on: October 13, 2012, 05:04:06 PM »
What's for dinner tonight? 
3205
Software & Accessories / Re: Arca-Swiss requires plate
« on: October 13, 2012, 04:59:46 PM »
Yes, you need a quick release plate for your camera (and lens tripod collars, if any). If you will shoot portrait orientation from the tripod, consider an L-bracket instead of just a base plate for the camera (yes, the ballhead has a drop notch, but centering the weight over the ball is better, and also enables you to do a pano rotation in portrait orientation).
Clicking the Accessories tab on the page you link shows the 'generic' base plates (fit any camera, you'd need the 1/4") from Arca-Swiss. But, lots of vendors make compatible plates since the AS system is 'the standard'. Check out Wimberley for a good generic plate (P-5) and lens plates for tripod collars. I like Really Right Stuff plates and L-brackets a lot - they are camera-specific, meaning no chance of the plate twisting. RRS gear is available only direct from them, though. Kirk plates and L-brackets are of equal quality to RRS, and distributed by B&H/Adorama.
Clicking the Accessories tab on the page you link shows the 'generic' base plates (fit any camera, you'd need the 1/4") from Arca-Swiss. But, lots of vendors make compatible plates since the AS system is 'the standard'. Check out Wimberley for a good generic plate (P-5) and lens plates for tripod collars. I like Really Right Stuff plates and L-brackets a lot - they are camera-specific, meaning no chance of the plate twisting. RRS gear is available only direct from them, though. Kirk plates and L-brackets are of equal quality to RRS, and distributed by B&H/Adorama.
3206
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Suitable camera for my needs, 1d iv, mark III or..
« on: October 13, 2012, 09:09:43 AM »
Welcome!
Lots of options, depending on budget. I can say that I know where you're coming from - I have daughters nearly 5 and nearly 3, and the 5DII's AF struggled to keep up (and usually failed). The 7D AF did much better, but the ISO noise limited me to 1600 or so (that's a subjective call), meaning useless for most indoor ambient shooting. I did use the 7D for birds in good light, where the 1.6x helps get more pixels on target.
The 1DIV is an excellent camera for action/wildlife, great AF, fast frame rate, and the 1.3x crop give more reach than FF. But, not so good for landscape (your wide angle 35L becomes a 46mm 'normal' lens, for example). Also, your DoF gets deeper for portraits - the 135/2 becomes a 175mm f/2.6 in terms of framing and DoF for an equivalent shot to FF.
When you say 'Mark III' do you mean 1D or 1Ds? The 1DIII will have the same crop factor issues as the 1DIV for landscape/portraits; the 1DIV has better AF than the 1DIII, but the III is still miles ahead of the 5DII and will meet your needs fine. If you mean 1DsIII, AF is the same as the 1DIV, but you can't push the ISO up very high.
The 5DIII is a huge step up from the 5DII in every way except IQ (and the 5DII is already great there). It has the 1D X AF sensor and 6 fps, truly a great all-around camera.
The 1D X just can't be beat - top IQ, top AF, great build and ergonomics (for some - I used gripped bodies before getting the 1D X, if you don't it will be big and heavy by comparison to a 5DII). Although the 5DIII has the 1D X AF sensor, the 1D X has a much better metering sensor, and data from that are used for face-tracking AF - I can tell you that it locks onto my kids' faces and keeps a lock as they run all over.
The only 'downside' to the 1D X and 5DIII is when it comes to birds, the FF sensor means less apparent reach. But if you're shooting them with a 5DII, it'll be no worse. Coming from a 7D + 100-400mm, my 'solution' to the loss of the 1.6x was to buy a 600/4 lens - but at $13K that's not an option for many people.
For your family and landscape shots, I'd stick with FF. But there are a couple of possibilities there: 1D X, or a 5DIII and $3200 left - that could buy a couple of nice lenses including a 70-300L or 100-400L for birds, 24mm TS-E for landscapes, or even a 7D and 400mm f/5.6 which would be a great BIF setup.
Hope that helps...
Lots of options, depending on budget. I can say that I know where you're coming from - I have daughters nearly 5 and nearly 3, and the 5DII's AF struggled to keep up (and usually failed). The 7D AF did much better, but the ISO noise limited me to 1600 or so (that's a subjective call), meaning useless for most indoor ambient shooting. I did use the 7D for birds in good light, where the 1.6x helps get more pixels on target.
The 1DIV is an excellent camera for action/wildlife, great AF, fast frame rate, and the 1.3x crop give more reach than FF. But, not so good for landscape (your wide angle 35L becomes a 46mm 'normal' lens, for example). Also, your DoF gets deeper for portraits - the 135/2 becomes a 175mm f/2.6 in terms of framing and DoF for an equivalent shot to FF.
When you say 'Mark III' do you mean 1D or 1Ds? The 1DIII will have the same crop factor issues as the 1DIV for landscape/portraits; the 1DIV has better AF than the 1DIII, but the III is still miles ahead of the 5DII and will meet your needs fine. If you mean 1DsIII, AF is the same as the 1DIV, but you can't push the ISO up very high.
The 5DIII is a huge step up from the 5DII in every way except IQ (and the 5DII is already great there). It has the 1D X AF sensor and 6 fps, truly a great all-around camera.
The 1D X just can't be beat - top IQ, top AF, great build and ergonomics (for some - I used gripped bodies before getting the 1D X, if you don't it will be big and heavy by comparison to a 5DII). Although the 5DIII has the 1D X AF sensor, the 1D X has a much better metering sensor, and data from that are used for face-tracking AF - I can tell you that it locks onto my kids' faces and keeps a lock as they run all over.
The only 'downside' to the 1D X and 5DIII is when it comes to birds, the FF sensor means less apparent reach. But if you're shooting them with a 5DII, it'll be no worse. Coming from a 7D + 100-400mm, my 'solution' to the loss of the 1.6x was to buy a 600/4 lens - but at $13K that's not an option for many people.
For your family and landscape shots, I'd stick with FF. But there are a couple of possibilities there: 1D X, or a 5DIII and $3200 left - that could buy a couple of nice lenses including a 70-300L or 100-400L for birds, 24mm TS-E for landscapes, or even a 7D and 400mm f/5.6 which would be a great BIF setup.
Hope that helps...
3207
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon EOS-1D X DXOMark Sensor Scores
« on: October 13, 2012, 08:15:21 AM »Well they do matter for a few specific use cases. E.g. if you can't get the lighting right and need to brighten your pictures.
I'll buy that. But the examples provided recently in other threads don't show 'can't get the lighting right', they show intentionally choosing to get the lighting wrong, then brightening the image that should not have needed brightening if properly exposed to begin with.
3208
Software & Accessories / Re: Hand Strap Question
« on: October 12, 2012, 08:09:39 PM »
You were lucky!
Not sure I understand the problem. You have a battery grip, and the grip has a lug for a hand strap, which attached to the top-right-side lug on the body, and the bottom-right lug on the underside of the grip, so the strap is on the right side of the camera. The L-bracket attaches to the tripod socket, and the vertical part is on the left side of the camera.
The Canon E2 Handstrap will work fine. Ok, now I see the problem...it's pictured with a tripod socket connector. But, it's not needed with a battery grip. The E1 required a battery grip or a 1-series body. Canon replaced it with the E2 that includes a tripod connection so it can work on any body. But since with the grip you have two lugs, just use the strap detached from the tripod socket connector.
Some L-brackets do include a strap lug - usually the ones designed for non-gripped bodies - with a grip, the lug on the L-bracket is superfluous.
Not sure I understand the problem. You have a battery grip, and the grip has a lug for a hand strap, which attached to the top-right-side lug on the body, and the bottom-right lug on the underside of the grip, so the strap is on the right side of the camera. The L-bracket attaches to the tripod socket, and the vertical part is on the left side of the camera.
The Canon E2 Handstrap will work fine. Ok, now I see the problem...it's pictured with a tripod socket connector. But, it's not needed with a battery grip. The E1 required a battery grip or a 1-series body. Canon replaced it with the E2 that includes a tripod connection so it can work on any body. But since with the grip you have two lugs, just use the strap detached from the tripod socket connector.
Some L-brackets do include a strap lug - usually the ones designed for non-gripped bodies - with a grip, the lug on the L-bracket is superfluous.
3209
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D III, or 6D+7D combo - your thoughts?
« on: October 12, 2012, 07:44:19 PM »With the 5D III, I really only give up a couple of FPS vs the 7D and some reach which I would probably only miss in football. I gain much better ISO performance for the indoor sports like volleyball, where the 7D can struggle (even with an 85mm f/1.8 I need ISO 3200 which honestly is poor on the 7D).
I know many of you have owned a 5DII & 7D combo and have some experience with that. For those of you that moved to a 5D III - did you find yourself still using the 7D much?
I had the 7D, and subsequently added the 5DII. After getting the FF, the only times I reached for the 7D were when the AF of the 5DII just wouldn't cut it (and sometimes I'd pick the 5DII even knowing the AF would mean a low hit rate, since the IQ was much better, particularly the ISO performance.
I'm not the one to answer the last question, since I replaced my 5DII with a 1D X. Since getting the 1D X, the 7D was used extensively....for one day.....by someone to whom I loaned the camera.
If you're anything like me, once you start capturing FF images, you'll start making excuses not to use APS-C.
The 5DIII has a better AF system than the 7D, and much better high ISO performance. I'd bet your keeper rate will be noticeably higher, even giving up 2 fps. Also, what do you use the files for - printing large? In some fairly detailed testing I did comparing 7D images to 5DII images shot from the same distance to the 7D's FoV, and the IQ was a wash (cropping results in deeper DoF and an increase in perceived noise) - basically, the only real difference was 8 MP vs. 18 MP. The 5DIII should do slightly better. So, if you don't need the full 18 MP, you won't really lose the reach of APS-C (although you won't gain the IQ benefit of FF if you crop the full 1.6x.
Bottom line, I'd recommend the 5DIII over a 7D + 5DII or 6D combo.
3210
Lenses / Re: New 600mm f/4L IS Mk II - availability?
« on: October 12, 2012, 06:55:52 PM »
To Rich's point about interoperability and modularity - it's a big plus. For example, with an additional $140 item, an RRS gimbal becomes a full multi-row pano setup. Their 1D X L-bracket can be used as just a camera base plate, and the allen key to switch them stores right in the plate. Etc.