January 28, 2015, 07:34:21 PM

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Messages - neuroanatomist

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46
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Help with upgrade from T3i?
« on: January 23, 2015, 07:29:41 AM »
If you shoot JPG, the 7DII will provide some improvement over the T3i; if you shoot RAW you'll see oy marginal improvement. 

IMO, if you're shooting at ISO 3200 or higher, FF is the way to go.

47
EOS Bodies / Re: High Megapixel Camera Coming in 2015 [CR3]
« on: January 22, 2015, 11:10:10 AM »
I need to know what sensor I should be using to take pictures of the cat to post on facebook...

Phase One IQ280.  Duh!

 ;D

48
EOS Bodies / Re: High Megapixel Camera Coming in 2015 [CR3]
« on: January 22, 2015, 08:59:14 AM »
IQ is a property of the sensor.

Do keep that in mind the next time you go out to take pictures with nothing but a small, rectangular piece of silicon with a CMOS surface architecture.  Be sure to show us the image quality of all the pictures you take, assuming you can find the shutter button on it.

49
Lenses / Re: Advice - what to take to Europe
« on: January 22, 2015, 07:51:20 AM »
... I am wondering if I will use the 70-300 or will I be lugging it around the world and not using it because everything in London and Paris will be close and crammed in, negating the need for longer focal lengths. 

I haven't spent a lot of time in London or Paris, but I have spent ample time in other major cities (and I'm in Boston daily).  The 70-300L is part of my urban travel kit precisely because everything is 'close and crammed in'.  The longer focal length allows you to isolate subjects – people, architectural elements, etc. – from all that clutter. 

FWIW, the rest of my kit comprises the 24-70mm f/2.8 II and the 17mm and 24mm TS-E lenses.  I also take CPL filters, and 10-stop ND filters so I can blur people out of scenes, but that obviously requires a stable tripod.  For your kit, a 77mm filter with a 67-77mm step up ring would work well.

I used to take the 16-35/2.8L II and TS-E 24, sold the 16-35/2.8 planning to get the f/4 IS version, but opted for the TS-E 17 instead.  I like the TS lenses to correct verticals when shooting architecture.  You can correct them in post, but you'll get cropping of the FoV if doing so, so if that's your intent be sure to frame very loosely.


I am also considering taking the 85 1.8 for some wide open portraits, but once again I am not sure whether it is worth taking it. 

The 85/1.8 would allow you to get strongly OOF backgrounds...consider that if you're taking portraits while traveling, you might want that background blurred slightly but still recognizable (as opposed to explaining to everyone that the vertical blur is the Eiffel Tower and not a telephone pole).


Also I will be purchasing a Gorillapod SLR Zoom to take with me.

Good idea - you'll want to be in some of the pictures!


I will be travelling with the wife, who can't understand why it can take longer than 15 seconds to take a photo, and why would you bother walking around to find another angle.  So I am normally under time pressure which also means that constantly swapping lenses just ends up annoying the wife, which in turn end up annoying me.  But I am sure a lot of you can understand that situation !!!

One option to consider is taking just two lenses on any given outing (24-105 and pick wide or long depending on agenda).  A Lowepro Lens Exchange 100 AW will hold the 70-300L (and thus any of your other lenses), and the design makes lens swaps easy (it expands to hold both lenses while swapping).   Wear it on a sturdy belt (or on a Lowepro Light Utility Belt with two of the three 'pads' removed). 

Have a great trip!

50
EOS Bodies / Re: High Megapixel Camera Coming in 2015 [CR3]
« on: January 22, 2015, 06:26:11 AM »
Look at all of the tests that websites such as dpreview do. Do they judge a camera's IQ by how well it focuses? Or do they judge it by how well a camera correctly captures and reproduces test patterns, colour charts, etc?

IQ is a property of the camera...

Yes, IQ is a property of the camera and lens.

Those tests to which you refer are judging the sensor, which is one of multiple components that contribute to the image quality of a camera.

51
EOS Bodies / Re: High Megapixel Camera Coming in 2015 [CR3]
« on: January 21, 2015, 08:19:04 PM »
Focus has no bearing on the image quality -

Here's a low ISO shot with a highly-rated 70-200/2.8 lens on a camera with close to 14 stops of DR.  By your criteria, it has excellent IQ.



Your criteria are just plain asinine.

52
Pricewatch Deals / Re: Deal: Canon EOS-1D X Body $4199
« on: January 21, 2015, 07:44:24 AM »

Couldn't resist.

However, Paypal didn't go through. I almost never use paypal, and suddenly $4k+ purchase so it triggered fraud alert and didn't let me complete the deal. Called them few times to fix, but they were not really reassuring to fix it so put it on my cc instead.

What else should I buy now? One extra battery for sure. The charger is already double charger, so that's good. What else?

(Trying not to jump and down here with excitement)

Congrats!

Fast CF cards if you don't have them.  If you use an Arca-compatible tripod set up, the RRS L bracket is a thing of beauty...it's modular, I leave the upright portion off if I'm not bringing a tripod with me.

If you use one of Canon's little IR remotes (RC-#), unfortunately those do not work with 1-series bodies, so you may want to look into a radio trigger solution (I use the hähnel trigger as the transmitter is reasonably small).

53
EOS Bodies / Re: High Megapixel Camera Coming in 2015 [CR3]
« on: January 21, 2015, 07:21:53 AM »
Image Quality is about how clean the image is, how well colours are reproduced, etc. Low noise and high DR contribute in a very direct fashion to IQ.

That is part of it.

As has been pointed out before, but really shouldn't need to be, there are other aspects to image quality too. Like if the subject is in focus. Indeed, in many circumstances, that is as important as noise. I'm not the first to say, though I will repeat - moderate noise can be reduced by software, but a subject cannot be made to be in focus with any postprocessing technique if it was not so in the original image.

Of course, anyone who really cares about IQ knows that every shot must be taken at base ISO with the camera on a tripod.  There's always time for CDAF or even manual focus, and you can use as long a shutter speed as you want. 

I guess some of us just don't really care about IQ. 

 ::) ::) ::)

54
Lenses / Re: Fast lenses at a crossroads?
« on: January 21, 2015, 07:12:02 AM »
I'm amused by comments like 'it should be f/2.8' and 'just add IS' as if such things were as trivial as flipping a switch and came without tradeoffs in cost, weight, IQ, etc. 

55
Site Information / Re: Easy access to categories?
« on: January 21, 2015, 06:16:49 AM »
IIRC, there used to be a list on the right of the page, where the 'popular posts' section is now.  Not a great workaround, but the category is at the top of each post (between date and "follow on our forum") and clicking it takes you to the category page.  You could use the search box to find a particular topic, then browse from there. 

56
I really think Nikon has nailed the potential of diffractive optics with their new lens and hope that Canon will follow suit.

So...you hope that Canon decides to release a DO lens where they have to warn in advance about flare problems, claim those problems can be minimized by a post-processing software correction, and provide an example of that correction where the resulting shot still suffers badly from veiling glare?  To each their own, I guess...

57
Lighting / Re: 400 f/5.6 + 600RT + ST-E3-RT + SB-E2
« on: January 20, 2015, 10:15:01 PM »
If you aren't putting your FILL flash on axis (-2 stop FEC, let's say), how do you manage to aim the flash on a mobile subject? I get it about steel-eye problems, but shooting fill in the field, as opposed to a feeder set-up or a pre-set point on a lake (waiting for duck to go past), would be hard if you had to adjust flash positioning and line up the wandering bird at teh same time.

The key is to get it as far off-axis as possible.  A pop-up flash is very close to the axis and causes red eye whereas a larger Speedlite in the hotshoe often won't.  I put my 600EX + Better Beamer on an RRS ring bracket with a 10" extension, so the flash head is ~18" above the lens axis. 

58
United States / Re: Gear or Wedding Photographer
« on: January 19, 2015, 07:56:49 PM »
Congrats on your marriage!

59
Lighting / Re: Canon 5D Mk III pre flashing.
« on: January 19, 2015, 03:04:46 AM »
Fix what?  The system is operating normally. The preflash is required for E-TTL flash metering.  If you need to eliminate the preflash, set the flash power manually. 

60
it's a Flickr blog, but their breakdown makes it look like Samsung's taking up a quickly growing market share at the expense of Canon, then Nikon. Pentax too, if you could even count them in to start with.

Samsung cell phones have become much more popular, and that's what you're seeing in that graphic.  I doubt their NX cameras would even be a blip on that chart.

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